Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
02-27-2002, 10:02 AM
#1
Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
I have about 20k miles on my car, and I went to pepboys and bought the throttle body cleaner and did what the bottle said of spraying it inside and cleaned it a towel. And then starting the car and spraying it while the car is running and empty the whole can.
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
02-27-2002, 10:12 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,378
Re: Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I have about 20k miles on my car, and I went to pepboys and bought the throttle body cleaner and did what the bottle said of spraying it inside and cleaned it a towel. And then starting the car and spraying it while the car is running and empty the whole can.
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
I have about 20k miles on my car, and I went to pepboys and bought the throttle body cleaner and did what the bottle said of spraying it inside and cleaned it a towel. And then starting the car and spraying it while the car is running and empty the whole can.
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
cool....I'm gonna give that a try this weekend.
Is there a particular brand i should look for?
02-27-2002, 10:24 AM
#3
Re: Re: Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
Originally posted by acMAX
cool....I'm gonna give that a try this weekend.
Is there a particular brand i should look for?
cool....I'm gonna give that a try this weekend.
Is there a particular brand i should look for?
Dixit
02-27-2002, 11:56 AM
#5
Originally posted by Cisco
Is there a how-to on cleaning the throttle body?
GC
Is there a how-to on cleaning the throttle body?
GC
Just use the prcai how to to learn how to remove the the stock airbox.
Dixit
02-27-2002, 12:23 PM
#6
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
No need, take off the box connected to the throttle body, and then spray directly into it.
Just use the prcai how to to learn how to remove the the stock airbox.
Dixit
No need, take off the box connected to the throttle body, and then spray directly into it.
Just use the prcai how to to learn how to remove the the stock airbox.
Dixit
02-27-2002, 05:45 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,378
Re: Re: Re: Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
The one says in the directions that you can spray it while the engine is on. I dont remember, but I think it was made by Gumout.
Dixit
The one says in the directions that you can spray it while the engine is on. I dont remember, but I think it was made by Gumout.
Dixit
02-27-2002, 06:15 PM
#9
Re: Re: Re: Re: Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
Originally posted by acMAX
hey i know this is OT but didn't you post a photo shopped pic a while back with dual tip dual exhausts on a 2k1 max?
hey i know this is OT but didn't you post a photo shopped pic a while back with dual tip dual exhausts on a 2k1 max?
Dixit
02-27-2002, 06:59 PM
#11
Originally posted by ru4real
You sprayed the cleaner into the TB while the engine is running, with the intake and MAF removed? No air is going through the intake or MAF! Did the engine run like crap?
You sprayed the cleaner into the TB while the engine is running, with the intake and MAF removed? No air is going through the intake or MAF! Did the engine run like crap?
Runs like a charm now. No hesitation. Smooth accelaration.
Dixit
02-27-2002, 09:34 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 812
Even if it looks clean, it really ain't
There is an ORG member that has detailed instructions on the fourth gen(similiar concept for fifth), most of the fourth gen members know it, it has a Max burnout on there also. The cleaning is very beneficial.
02-27-2002, 11:19 PM
#15
02-27-2002, 11:39 PM
#16
Sorry, but...
I'm NOT trying to flame Dixit or anyone, but I have to question if this is a good idea.
You're basically liquifying all the carbon build up that accumulates in the throttle-body and intake manifold and turning it into a "sludge". This sludge is then drawn into the engine coating the intake valves and combustion chamber. Then this crap is slowly burned off in the combustion chamber, but in the meantime it's caked on the back of the intake valves and also scratching the cylinder walls. I've seen this crap and it's not great for reducing friction on moving parts. I forget the word Mechanical Engineers use, but this stuff has a rather large particle size. It is not going to simply combust and disappear out the exhaust.
I'm just wondering if this is going to cause more harm than good in the long run.
The throttle body is something that can be removed and cleaned, but you'll have to disconnect some coolant lines and that may require you drain the cooling system. However, if it comes time to do this, I would rather do that then allow all the carbon deposits to be injested by my engine.
Just my .02, which ain't worth much.
You're basically liquifying all the carbon build up that accumulates in the throttle-body and intake manifold and turning it into a "sludge". This sludge is then drawn into the engine coating the intake valves and combustion chamber. Then this crap is slowly burned off in the combustion chamber, but in the meantime it's caked on the back of the intake valves and also scratching the cylinder walls. I've seen this crap and it's not great for reducing friction on moving parts. I forget the word Mechanical Engineers use, but this stuff has a rather large particle size. It is not going to simply combust and disappear out the exhaust.
I'm just wondering if this is going to cause more harm than good in the long run.
The throttle body is something that can be removed and cleaned, but you'll have to disconnect some coolant lines and that may require you drain the cooling system. However, if it comes time to do this, I would rather do that then allow all the carbon deposits to be injested by my engine.
Just my .02, which ain't worth much.
02-27-2002, 11:48 PM
#17
a33, I take it this is your site? If it is Thanks for posting the link. Looks very informative. I'm going to have to check this out a little later when I don't have so much homework. Also I tried clening my throttle body about a month ago and it felt the same. I have about 43k on my max and geez was that thing dirty. i started it up and it had trouble starting for like 4 seconds or so and bang it reved up to 1500 rpms and smoothed out within a matter of seconds (rpms dropped to around 750 rpms) But didn't feel a diffrence. I will try what ICEY2K1 suggest later on.
02-28-2002, 05:03 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Muncie, IN
Posts: 436
I notice that the site posted by a33 doesn't seem to mention performing the cleaning with the engine running. I have to agree with Ice...doing this with the engine running just doesn't sound like a good idea.
I can remember cleaning the carb out on my dad's '69 BelAir with a can of Gumout and the engine running, but, hell, we're talking about old-school Dee-troyt iron there.
Of course, my opinion is worth about half as much as Ice's on this...
I can remember cleaning the carb out on my dad's '69 BelAir with a can of Gumout and the engine running, but, hell, we're talking about old-school Dee-troyt iron there.
Of course, my opinion is worth about half as much as Ice's on this...
02-28-2002, 06:56 AM
#20
Originally posted by Thorzdad
I notice that the site posted by a33 doesn't seem to mention performing the cleaning with the engine running. I have to agree with Ice...doing this with the engine running just doesn't sound like a good idea.
I can remember cleaning the carb out on my dad's '69 BelAir with a can of Gumout and the engine running, but, hell, we're talking about old-school Dee-troyt iron there.
Of course, my opinion is worth about half as much as Ice's on this...
I notice that the site posted by a33 doesn't seem to mention performing the cleaning with the engine running. I have to agree with Ice...doing this with the engine running just doesn't sound like a good idea.
I can remember cleaning the carb out on my dad's '69 BelAir with a can of Gumout and the engine running, but, hell, we're talking about old-school Dee-troyt iron there.
Of course, my opinion is worth about half as much as Ice's on this...
i think the only way to make sure the manifold and everything else stays sludge free( well at least not sludge from the cleaning) is to take the throttle body off and clean as Ice stated before
02-28-2002, 07:51 AM
#22
Re: Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I have about 20k miles on my car, and I went to pepboys and bought the throttle body cleaner and did what the bottle said of spraying it inside and cleaned it a towel. And then starting the car and spraying it while the car is running and empty the whole can.
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
I have about 20k miles on my car, and I went to pepboys and bought the throttle body cleaner and did what the bottle said of spraying it inside and cleaned it a towel. And then starting the car and spraying it while the car is running and empty the whole can.
First off the towel turned black with all the crap i just cleaned out. My friend said he saw crazy black smoke come out the exhaust.
And the final test, the drive is much more responsive and quicker.
Definetely worth doing for some of you that feel you have lost the "edge" and what not. Only $4.
Dixit
02-28-2002, 07:57 AM
#23
Re: Sorry, but...
Originally posted by IceY2K1
I'm NOT trying to flame Dixit or anyone, but I have to question if this is a good idea.
You're basically liquifying all the carbon build up that accumulates in the throttle-body and intake manifold and turning it into a "sludge". This sludge is then drawn into the engine coating the intake valves and combustion chamber. Then this crap is slowly burned off in the combustion chamber, but in the meantime it's caked on the back of the intake valves and also scratching the cylinder walls. I've seen this crap and it's not great for reducing friction on moving parts. I forget the word Mechanical Engineers use, but this stuff has a rather large particle size. It is not going to simply combust and disappear out the exhaust.
I'm just wondering if this is going to cause more harm than good in the long run.
The throttle body is something that can be removed and cleaned, but you'll have to disconnect some coolant lines and that may require you drain the cooling system. However, if it comes time to do this, I would rather do that then allow all the carbon deposits to be injested by my engine.
Just my .02, which ain't worth much.
I'm NOT trying to flame Dixit or anyone, but I have to question if this is a good idea.
You're basically liquifying all the carbon build up that accumulates in the throttle-body and intake manifold and turning it into a "sludge". This sludge is then drawn into the engine coating the intake valves and combustion chamber. Then this crap is slowly burned off in the combustion chamber, but in the meantime it's caked on the back of the intake valves and also scratching the cylinder walls. I've seen this crap and it's not great for reducing friction on moving parts. I forget the word Mechanical Engineers use, but this stuff has a rather large particle size. It is not going to simply combust and disappear out the exhaust.
I'm just wondering if this is going to cause more harm than good in the long run.
The throttle body is something that can be removed and cleaned, but you'll have to disconnect some coolant lines and that may require you drain the cooling system. However, if it comes time to do this, I would rather do that then allow all the carbon deposits to be injested by my engine.
Just my .02, which ain't worth much.
Dixit
02-28-2002, 08:03 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Muncie, IN
Posts: 436
Originally posted by theMax
Should you have sludge up in your intake manifold in the first place?
Doesn't this mean your car is not running well or the filter is not doing its job?
Should you have sludge up in your intake manifold in the first place?
Doesn't this mean your car is not running well or the filter is not doing its job?
02-28-2002, 08:24 AM
#25
You guys...
Originally posted by Thorzdad
That's the other thing that is bothering me about this. How does all this cr*p get past those nice expensive filters?
That's the other thing that is bothering me about this. How does all this cr*p get past those nice expensive filters?
Dixit, if you want less buildup you might consider removing this tube, pluging your CAI connection, and putting a crankcase breather filter on the valve cover. A 2K2 on here did this. However, I have NOT seen the EGR system layout for our car. On the car I learned about this on(Nissan Sentra), it had two paths for the vapors to be drawn into the intake. One in the intake tract and the other was in the manifold. Therefore, part of the manifold will still get dirty, but the TB will remain clean and the vapors will still be able to escape the crankcase which is important. You do NOT want to contain all the vapors in the crankcase.
Again my .02.
02-28-2002, 08:28 AM
#26
Re: You guys...
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Dixit, if you want less buildup you might consider removing this tube, pluging your CAI connection, and putting a crankcase breather filter on the valve cover. A 2K2 on here did this. However, I have NOT seen the EGR system layout for our car. On the car I learned about this on(Nissan Sentra), it had two paths for the vapors to be drawn into the intake. One in the intake tract and the other was in the manifold. Therefore, part of the manifold will still get dirty, but the TB will remain clean and the vapors will still be able to escape the crankcase which is important. You do NOT want to contain all the vapors in the crankcase.
Again my .02.
Dixit, if you want less buildup you might consider removing this tube, pluging your CAI connection, and putting a crankcase breather filter on the valve cover. A 2K2 on here did this. However, I have NOT seen the EGR system layout for our car. On the car I learned about this on(Nissan Sentra), it had two paths for the vapors to be drawn into the intake. One in the intake tract and the other was in the manifold. Therefore, part of the manifold will still get dirty, but the TB will remain clean and the vapors will still be able to escape the crankcase which is important. You do NOT want to contain all the vapors in the crankcase.
Again my .02.
Dixit
02-28-2002, 08:29 AM
#27
Also...
Instead of removing the piece of the intake tract before the TB to spray the TB-cleaner in, you can just remove the crankcase breather tube from the intake tract and spray it in there while the engine is running. PLEASE do NOT spray TB-cleaner into the crankcase side, just the intake tract side. It should be EASIER to keep the car running, since the MAF will still be reading air flow.
02-28-2002, 08:34 AM
#28
Re: Re: You guys...
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I dont follow you on the plugging my CAI part. I got a PRCAI on there right now.
Dixit
I dont follow you on the plugging my CAI part. I got a PRCAI on there right now.
Dixit
If you still don't see it I'll try and take a pic this weekend.
02-28-2002, 08:40 AM
#29
Re: Re: Re: You guys...
Originally posted by IceY2K1
You know the ~1-1.5" tube that runs from the top of the valve cover to the intake tract right before the TB? Follow it to the intake. You remove this, put a K&N breather filter(small 2" filter) on the valve cover side and plug the opposite side of the tube which connected to your intake tract.
If you still don't see it I'll try and take a pic this weekend.
You know the ~1-1.5" tube that runs from the top of the valve cover to the intake tract right before the TB? Follow it to the intake. You remove this, put a K&N breather filter(small 2" filter) on the valve cover side and plug the opposite side of the tube which connected to your intake tract.
If you still don't see it I'll try and take a pic this weekend.
So you said put a breather filter on the valve cover side, and just plug the tube on the PRCAI side. What advantage do I get from this beside less oil/carbon getting into the Tbody? Also is there a disadvatage to this?
Dixit
02-28-2002, 09:11 AM
#30
Re: Re: Re: Re: You guys...
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I know what you are talking about, you are talking about that 1" pipe that goes into the short pipe of the PRCAI.
So you said put a breather filter on the valve cover side, and just plug the tube on the PRCAI side. What advantage do I get from this beside less oil/carbon getting into the Tbody? Also is there a disadvatage to this?
Dixit
I know what you are talking about, you are talking about that 1" pipe that goes into the short pipe of the PRCAI.
So you said put a breather filter on the valve cover side, and just plug the tube on the PRCAI side. What advantage do I get from this beside less oil/carbon getting into the Tbody? Also is there a disadvatage to this?
Dixit
The most significant advantage is that the TB and most of the intake manifold doesn't get so dirty. The disadvantage is that your releasing the vapors into the environment(through the K&N breather filter) and that you might be building up vapors in your crankcase, but I'm not sure exactly what harm this can do unless too much pressure builds up. Maybe, some Mechanical people on here can answer that better.
Basically on my Sentras' PCV(Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system, the PCV valve allows one-way flow of the vapors into the side of the manifold(not sure if all the time or if it's only under certain conditions), whereas the breather tube draws vapors into the intake tract ONLY under high load/RPMs. So, there are two paths that allow vapors to escape the crankcase. I don't know for sure how the Maxima is setup.
Also, supposedly oily vapors drawn into the combustion chamber lower the effective overall octane rating of the fuel when the fuel/air mixture is ignited, but I don't know exactly how/why this occurs. A Mechanical Engineer should be able to elaborate.
02-28-2002, 09:22 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,378
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Cleaned Throttle body, world of difference
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Yeah that was me. And yes the dual 4" in tips are real.
Dixit
Yeah that was me. And yes the dual 4" in tips are real.
Dixit
i know your 4" tips are real...
I was just wondering if you could post that pic again or can you email it to me?
thanks
02-28-2002, 05:49 PM
#32
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: You guys...
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Not 100% positive on this, so just my .02 again.
The most significant advantage is that the TB and most of the intake manifold doesn't get so dirty. The disadvantage is that your releasing the vapors into the environment(through the K&N breather filter) and that you might be building up vapors in your crankcase, but I'm not sure exactly what harm this can do unless too much pressure builds up. Maybe, some Mechanical people on here can answer that better.
Basically on my Sentras' PCV(Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system, the PCV valve allows one-way flow of the vapors into the side of the manifold(not sure if all the time or if it's only under certain conditions), whereas the breather tube draws vapors into the intake tract ONLY under high load/RPMs. So, there are two paths that allow vapors to escape the crankcase. I don't know for sure how the Maxima is setup.
Also, supposedly oily vapors drawn into the combustion chamber lower the effective overall octane rating of the fuel when the fuel/air mixture is ignited, but I don't know exactly how/why this occurs. A Mechanical Engineer should be able to elaborate.
Not 100% positive on this, so just my .02 again.
The most significant advantage is that the TB and most of the intake manifold doesn't get so dirty. The disadvantage is that your releasing the vapors into the environment(through the K&N breather filter) and that you might be building up vapors in your crankcase, but I'm not sure exactly what harm this can do unless too much pressure builds up. Maybe, some Mechanical people on here can answer that better.
Basically on my Sentras' PCV(Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system, the PCV valve allows one-way flow of the vapors into the side of the manifold(not sure if all the time or if it's only under certain conditions), whereas the breather tube draws vapors into the intake tract ONLY under high load/RPMs. So, there are two paths that allow vapors to escape the crankcase. I don't know for sure how the Maxima is setup.
Also, supposedly oily vapors drawn into the combustion chamber lower the effective overall octane rating of the fuel when the fuel/air mixture is ignited, but I don't know exactly how/why this occurs. A Mechanical Engineer should be able to elaborate.
Maybe he knows. 
02-28-2002, 05:55 PM
#33
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: You guys...
Originally posted by Menacer
Ice, hopefully Steve (the guy who bought a 4th gen after his accord was declared totaled). will view this thread. Forgot his SN Maybe he knows.
Ice, hopefully Steve (the guy who bought a 4th gen after his accord was declared totaled). will view this thread. Forgot his SN
Maybe he knows.
03-03-2002, 02:31 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 347
Threw 'Service Engine Soon' light
I did this today with 27k miles on my 2k. The throttle body was not that dirty to begin with. But after doing it, my 'Service Engine Soon' light came on. WTF? I reset my ECU, and still on. Now I need to take it to the dealer to have them reset it(Although I still need to go to get my AC/Heater blower motor fixed_Damned thing squels soooo loud!) I feel the gains were minimal due to the hassle. Anybody else have his problem? I feel it should be done more around 75k mi. 
03-03-2002, 09:36 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,985
Re: Threw 'Service Engine Soon' light
Originally posted by HondaKilLR
I did this today with 27k miles on my 2k. The throttle body was not that dirty to begin with. But after doing it, my 'Service Engine Soon' light came on. WTF? I reset my ECU, and still on. Now I need to take it to the dealer to have them reset it(Although I still need to go to get my AC/Heater blower motor fixed_Damned thing squels soooo loud!) I feel the gains were minimal due to the hassle. Anybody else have his problem? I feel it should be done more around 75k mi.
I did this today with 27k miles on my 2k. The throttle body was not that dirty to begin with. But after doing it, my 'Service Engine Soon' light came on. WTF? I reset my ECU, and still on. Now I need to take it to the dealer to have them reset it(Although I still need to go to get my AC/Heater blower motor fixed_Damned thing squels soooo loud!) I feel the gains were minimal due to the hassle. Anybody else have his problem? I feel it should be done more around 75k mi.
03-03-2002, 10:13 AM
#36
Re: Re: Threw 'Service Engine Soon' light
Originally posted by theMax
did you spray through the MAF? If so you might have damaged it.
did you spray through the MAF? If so you might have damaged it.
Dixit
03-03-2002, 10:31 AM
#37
i've sprayed my MAF with the cleaner before, and i've never had problems.
and when i changed out my prcai to go back to stock last night, i decided to check the TB, and mine was pretty clean. but i cleaned it anyway.
and when i changed out my prcai to go back to stock last night, i decided to check the TB, and mine was pretty clean. but i cleaned it anyway.
03-03-2002, 10:38 AM
#38
Originally posted by victor
i've sprayed my MAF with the cleaner before, and i've never had problems.
and when i changed out my prcai to go back to stock last night, i decided to check the TB, and mine was pretty clean. but i cleaned it anyway.
i've sprayed my MAF with the cleaner before, and i've never had problems.
and when i changed out my prcai to go back to stock last night, i decided to check the TB, and mine was pretty clean. but i cleaned it anyway.
Dixit
03-03-2002, 11:46 AM
#39
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Very very bad. Never should spray the MAF sensor. You probably got lucky, but it eats away the sensor.
Dixit
Very very bad. Never should spray the MAF sensor. You probably got lucky, but it eats away the sensor.
Dixit
03-03-2002, 01:45 PM
#40
Originally posted by victor
i've sprayed my MAF with the cleaner before, and i've never had problems.
and when i changed out my prcai to go back to stock last night, i decided to check the TB, and mine was pretty clean. but i cleaned it anyway.
i've sprayed my MAF with the cleaner before, and i've never had problems.
and when i changed out my prcai to go back to stock last night, i decided to check the TB, and mine was pretty clean. but i cleaned it anyway.