I finally had a chance to crawl underneath and take a look at how it will go when I decide to change the oil.
The drain plug will not be a problem since it faces aft and putting the car on small front ramps will help in the flow of the oil from the pan.
But what is this stupid splash guard which surrounds the oil filter. Can it be removed easily? I can't see how I would be able to get an oil filter cap wrench on the filter and have the rachet handle clear the splash guard so I will be able to remove the oil filter.
Can the splash guard be pushed and held out of the way while removing the oil filter and without damaging the splash guard? Or do I need a "strap" type oil filter wrench instead?
How does the dealer do it (i.e. what does the service manual say)?
Also it appears that if you leave the splash guard in place that there will be a mess of oil collecting in it while you remove the old oil filter...I hope they didn't give the engineer who came up with putting this splash guard in the way an award.

Any hints on this would be helpful. Thanks!

 

From what I've seen the techs just bend the splash guard out of the way. They bend it alot but it hasn't broke yet. BTW, what's the latest on your trunk emblem situation ?

 

Remove one bolt and one screw and you will be able to flex the splash guard enough to put the filter wrench on. When you put the new filter on, hand tighten only.

On your subsequent oil changes, you should be able to remove the filter by hand (or use a piece of sand paper for grip).

 

I don't think you need to put it up ramps... unless you want to.

Turn the wheels hard right... or maybe it's hard left... inside the right front wheel well there is a cover that can be removed to access the front of the engine to remove the filter and reach in to the oil plug.

At least, it looks like it would work. I haven't changed oil on mine yet as I got into the habit of taking my cars to the lube place, with my Acuras. The filters were on the back side of the engine, above the exhaust. Didn't relish putting up on high ramps or jack stands, wriggle underneath, twist off the filter getting a faceful of old oil while avoiding the hot exhaust. So I let them do it.

BuddyWh

 

Thanks for the info...I guess I'll just try the "bending" method in getting at the filter (as SptBiz said...the techs just bend it, they're not going to spend a lot of time to remove the splash guard, etc.).
SptBiz, BTW the dealer gave me a new MAXIMA emblem for the rear and after about an hour I was able to replace the old letters. Now, it's perfectly level and looks great! The letters (because they are separate) come in a blue styrofoam template with tape on top of the letters and of course the tape behind them for adhering to the trunk lid. After measuring and ensuring it was correct, I just pressed them onto the trunk.
Now, I have notice quite a few 2k2 MAXIMAs on the road with their emblems canted to the left (some worse than others).

MakeHerPurr, if I decide to remove the bolt and screw from the splash guard, are they accessible and readily apparant which bolt and screw should be removed from underneath (when on front ramps)?

 

I've changed my oil a few times. The first time on ramps and the rest by just turning the wheel. The splash guard is easily bent out of the way, no need to remove it.

Soon I have to change it for the first time since it was lowered. I might have to use the jack.

 

Before my first Maxima old change, some of the guys here suggested that I take the splash guard off. I tried that, but one of those screws holding the guard in wouldn't come off, so I said forget it and did it with the guard on.

Parts You'll Need:
A) Big, plastic oil drain pan from your local auto parts store (I got a 15-quart one). Get one where everything can close up, so you can move it around with no worries about splashes or leaks.
B) Get the correct filter and oil of your choice.
C) An oil filter wrench (the filter for the Maxima is actually pretty small, so be careful on what size tool you get).
D) 14mm socket wrench (for the oil pan drain plug).
E) Disposable latex gloves.

This Is What I Do:
1) Wait for the engine to cool off (unless you want to risk hot oil rolling down your arm).
2) Lift the front of your Maxima up. Get a good clearance so that the front tires are off the ground. (Be safe, and don't leave your car on jacks. Use jack stands or car ramps to keep the car up.) Open the hood and remove the oil cap.
3) Put on the gloves. There's nothing worse than any kind of dirt or oil from a car, so the less you get on you the cleaner you'll be.
4) Get under the car with the socket wrench and find the oil pan. It is right next to the front passenger-side splash guard. Loosen the plug just a bit, so that no oil comes out yet. Get the oil drain pan and get it under the plug. Completely unscrew the plug and let the oil drain out. Be sure the plug and its washer are together.
5) After the oil stops dripping out, clean the hole area, the plug, and the washer. Screw the plug back into place tightly, but don't over do it.
6) Now the fun part...reach into the splash guard and find the oil filter. Position the oil drain pan underneath the filter as best you can. Use the filter wrench to remove the filter. Some oil will leak out, but it should be little enough to clean up with a rag or paper towels.
7) Take the new filter and use some fresh oil to coat the rubber seal of the filter. Screw in the new filter and tighten it according to the directions in your user's manual. Again, don't over do it.
8) Fill up on the fresh oil. Check your dip stick. Put the oil cap back on.
9) Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check underneath the car for oil leaks.
10) Assuming all went well, lower the car down, clean up your work area, and you're off!

Some gas station car shops or auto parts stores will take the old oil in for little or no cost. Just take your oil drain pan there to dispose of your used motor oil.

Again, this should not be more than a 15 to 60 minute job (after the engine cools) depending on how long you wish to wait for the used oil to drain out. Just be patient, and you'll end up with very little or no mess at all.

Have fun. It's easy!

 

Kenny, it sounds like you're able to get an oil filter cap wrench onto the oil filter by bending the splash guard out of the way. I will give it a try. If that doesn't work, I'll find a strap oil filter wrench.
I change the oil on all my other cars ('95 Stang, '00 Neon, and the '01 Vette). Of the the three, the Vette is the hardest to change (low clearance and I have to jack the rear up in order to get all the oil out since the drain plug faces forward).
I agree, there is nothing like doing it yourself. Many years ago I had a couple of bad experiences at those Quick Lube places (e.g. overtightened drain plugs,low oil, didn't actually changed the filter, etc.). At least when you do it yourself, you know that you put in the correct oil and the correct amount and that you did it right.
Again, thanks for your info and as long as the splash guard will bend enough (and then return to it's original shape)...then that's the way I'll do it.