My 2k2 HID mod totally messed up the electrical system on my Maxima. The dealer can't update my ECU, they said even a jumpstart could fry it at the state it's in. I need to find a Nissan specialist that can troubleshoot my wiring. I'm in So. Cal.

 

Your headlights are not connected to the ECU. they *are* connected to the Smart Entrance Unit. if anything was going to fry, it would be there not even near the ECU. Sounds like BS to me. Try a different dealer.

Unless you've really messed up on the wiring... but still that would cook the SEC, NOT the ECU.

 

Where in So Cal?? What is giong on with your ride? What are the symptoms? Is it dead?

 

I thought my HID wiring was okay. They work well, high beams work, it put in the relays so they won't blink when my alarm goes off. Last weekend the "Service Engine" light came on so I took it in to the dealer. They said can't do the updates until I move my accessories (which may include my stereo or my HIDs) to another systems, whatever that means. I was able to get rid of the light by unplugging my battery for a few hours. I guess I should be glad I can still drive my car around. But this worries me. They say problems will come up and get worse.

I'm in Los Angeles.

 

you got BS-ed. Big time. ESPECIALLY if you had relays. Find another dealer. I mean, come on, your stereo? please. Under warranty, they have to prove that those unrelated items caused your problem. thats law. You should call Nissan and call them on their BS. the dealer needs a complaint on that one. remove the stereo to update the ECU. Now I have heard it all. he11 that beats denying warranty because of painted calipers. We have a new winner.

As far as the HIDs go, they draw LESS power. Many of us have seen the 2k wiring schematic, I can assure you its not wired to the ECU.

You probably have a bad o2 sensor, faulty coil or failing MAF. thats the bulk of SES's with us.

 

Did you tap the O2-sensor to trigger the relay for the "alarm-fix"?

You may confirm how you did the install with Dixit. I suspect you may have screwed up the wiring and be corrupting the O2-sensor.

Just a guess. As Timeeeh said, the rest is PURE BS.

 

Hey kpark,

I'm located in alhambra, which is only 10-15 miles from L.A. There is a local nissan specialist on valley blvd. right where I live. Tell me if you want their number and address, i'll need to go get it for you.... in case you wanna ask for a price quote.

 

Now it *almost* makes sense I could very easily seeing them refusing a scan with that tap.

 

Probably unrelated, but I had a defective SECU (smart entrance control unit) replaced under warranty after several weeks of arguing with the local Nissan rep that an aftermarket alarm installation didn't cause the failure. Everytime I'd arm/disarm or remote start, the trunk would pop open. As you can imagine, if I armed it and the trunk popped....alarm is triggered. Finally I got the install shop of the alarm to call the service manager and offer to send his guys over to remove all Clifford components....then the service manager relented and replaced the SECU. 2 months later and no problems.

 

That's just one example why I told Dixit from day one NOT to tap an 02-sensor for the relay trigger.

Anyways, I'm not sure if Dixit specified the FRONT or REAR 02-sensors, but I'd DEFINITELY not mess with the FRONT 2-sensors since your engine relies on them. The rear 2-sensors are a better choice, since they don't influence A/F metering.

Just my .02 which aint worth jack!

 

Hey IceY2K1, can you tell me where the rear O2 sensors are located? Or better yet, where I can tap into for a relay trigger that would be safer than the O2 sensor. Thanks for all your help.

I should be able to disconnect the tap to the O2 sensor in order for the dealer to update my ECU right? And then reconnect it when they're done?

 

I don't remember off the top of my head, I'll look tonight. Or you can just trace the 4-plugs on the front of the engine to the 02-sensor locations. Each bank of cylinders has two 02-sensors. Whichever one is farther down the exhaust is the REAR sensor for that bank.

Depends on the actual problem, but you need to fix whatever is causing the MIL(Malfunction Indicator Lamp) and then disconnect your negative battery terminal overnight. Otherwise, if you take it to the dealer they will not be able to clear the stored DTC(Diagnostic Trouble Code) and turn off the MIL permanetly. It will just keep coming back on.

 

I didn't get a chance to go out to the garage tonight.

I'll be busy the next two days, so maybe Sunday when I wash the dirty thing, I'll remember. Otherwise, just email, so I don't forget.