nc00max

Ok, so the past couple days I've been noticing a considerable drop in the car's get up and go, and while it's particularly noticable in first, I can still feel it throughout the gears and RPM band. Today, I ran across a guy with a GS300 that I know from my ship, and we've ran enough times to know that I ALWAYS take him by at least a couple carlengths to 70. This morning we were dead even and he swore up and down he didn't have anything new. Then later on today on my way home from the auto hobby shop, I got into it with a 96 Camry V6LE. We were dead even also. So I'm pretty sure it's not just a butt dyno thing, especially when in the first half of 1st gear.

So, thinking maybe it's the plugs since I have 45k miles and run nitrous (besides feeling the need to change them anyways), I got them replaced. No change. Hmmm, well, maybe I got a bad batch of gas. So I let the gas light come on before I put in some FI cleaner and a half tank of Texaco's best. No change, at least not yet. Alrighty...so I get to reading on here, and think maybe it's the damned Y-pipe flex. I take it in this morning to get the oil changed, pull it down, and it's just fine, and the lining appears to be completely intact. So I go down to the auto hobby shop so I can clean my CAI filter. This is a PITA since you have to take the wheel off, but I do it anyways, and the damn filter is absolutely filthy. Odd, that's only been in for 10k miles. I clean the living **** out of the damned thing, smiling to myself because this has GOT to be the problem. Put everything back together, drive off, get onto an emptier 4-lane highway and gun it. No change. So I came home and disconnected the battery to reset the ECU. No change. I checked all my fluids and everything is fine. I have no clue what else it could be, so could someone, anyone and everyone, please help me and give me your inputs on what you think the problem might be?

maximawanabee

Run by me again why resetting the ECU can/may help solve the problem (or any other problem for that matter . Especially when the engine is concerned.

raynist

Could it be this??

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=113198

Colonel

Ooooo, good call. Definately try the test. You would notice the lag at the top of 1st for sure.

Matthew

...What kind of spark plugs did you use? You should be replacing with double platinum tipped plugs (or better)... Just a thought.

---Matt

K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

go drive a 4 banger(ford escort) for half of day & get back in your max~~ it should feel alot quicker then

nc00max

My symptoms don't seem to match since the loss is band-wide and the worst is at lower rpms. I sincerely hope that the VIAS isn't the problem since nitrous doesn't make for good dealer visits. But I read through the post and got to thinking. Who here knows what this blue hose is and what it does?



I did the hose dress up kit, and the inside diameter of the silicone hose was a little smaller than the one it replaced. I was told elsewhere that this wouldn't make a difference, but does anyone here think differently?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Cattman y pipe

That blue hose is a vacuum hose.

nc00max

I checked the Y-pipe and it was fine.

So the hose wouldn't make a difference unless it was gone completely then?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Nope, won't make a difference.

adman

I'm having a similar problem with my car too. I believe it is the coils. The car hesitates like crazy in first, but is fine at higher RPMs. I believe the knock sensor is retarding the timing until it is no longer needed. But, I can't get the damn SES to come on so the dealer won't fix it under the COIL-TSB.

Sound close?


ADMAN

nc00max

Got your e-mail...
I just got back from driving the **** out of it, and the problem is DEFINITELY lower RPM's, like below 4500 or so. I have an auto, and it seems to pull almost like normal above 4500, so it's not the VIAS. I did the visual test and the VIAS is working fine. I'm worried about having to take it to the dealer since I'm at 45K miles and have some pretty serious mods on there (nitrous comes to mind). How much to replace the coils yourself if I should have to do so? The dealerships give me a hard time about my FSTB, I can only imagine what they're going to say about the other goodies.

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

swap ignition coils..... $40 a piece from Dave B.... made a big difference for me

adman

I've seen them as cheap as $280.00 on up to $600.00. I guess you could call DaveB and see if he can get you a set to do yourself.

Check your email...


ADMAN

MaxKrawler

How come we have vacuum hoses that we don't need be there. Doesn't it suck in dust or something

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

He was talking about the diameter. If you remove the hose, then you will run into problems.

nc00max

Alright, update time. I took it into the dealer to have them look at and if necessary replace the coils. Well, they're fine, and now the damned thing is still at the dealership while they continue to try and figure out what's wrong. One thing he did find, is that when he held it above 2k rpms it would drop off after a second or two without releasing the gas pedal any. I even did it myself and he was right. Hopefully that gave them a place to start and it won't take several days and hundreds of dollars for them to find it. Anyone have any ideas on what it might be now?

And Adman, try this test on your car to see if it does the same thing. Just leave it in park and rev it to about 2k-2500 rpms, hold it, and see if it just drops off by itself. If so, maybe when they figure out what's wrong with my car I can pass it on to you for whenever you go in. That way you can tell them what to look for and hopefully you won't have to go through the huge research project that I'm guessing mine will soon become.

raynist

Did they see your Nitrous? Is this a warranty fix or not?

--ray

nc00max

Yeah, they saw the solenoids, and because I'm at 45k miles, the warranty no longer applies.