I really cant be afford to get my rotors rotated and replaced every 5k miles, I wanted to get the 2k2 max but from the looks of it, it has the same problem. I dont know what to do, I may just go ahead and get an SUV 4 real. Any words of advise is welcomed.

 

Get Brembo blanks, and then upgrade your brake lines with Goodridge SS lines.

DW

 

are you being a torq-**** about your lugs?

actually, TLs and CLs are warping rotors too..

 

I have a 98 Durango SLT and I am really getting sick of filling her up twice a week, $40 a pop.

 

An SUV at a much greater mass than a Maxima is going to really hard on brakes and other suspension parts than the Maxima. I'd say if the Max meets your needs just upgrade the components that are sub-standard on your car (bigger brakes or whatever) and enjoy your car. At least that way you've still got a couple of years of payments already under your belt.

 

do u brake "normally"?
if yes....I would change the rotors to some good aftermarket ones....no xdrill.

also make sure they dun use air tool to tight the lugs. the torque reading of the lugs should be 90 lb/ft.

 

I'd say...keep the Max AND get an SUV. My Grand Cherokee takes $35 of gas 3 times every 2 weeks...and I've only got the V6 and drive mostly highway!

 

I don't know if you've got a m/t or a auto, but I have no probs with my brakes and I have the same car as you. Every 5K rotating and prelacing? Don't sound right? Try down shifting! j/k

 

I'm not exactly sure but I think there is a TSB about the early 5th gen rotors wearing sooner than expected. Go for the upgrade. If it's only your brakes you're worried about then feel good. I went from an Expedition to a max. It was nice to be able to tow just about anything, but

-it sucked down fuel (even though I use premium now I pay less per mile for gas)
-any place that does something to your car charges you extra cause it's so big
-forget about cleaning the thing buy yourself. talk about wasting a whole weekend.
-good luck finding something you put in it the day before. gnomes come out at night and hide your s#*%
-sometimes parking isn't very accomodating, especially garages
-every vehicle has its problems, especially since the whole Ford/Firestone thing

the expedition did hold more subs though...

 

 

why no cross drilled brakes?

 

Do you have your stock rotors replaced or just "turned"? I had turned mine twice before replacement and in both cases they were warped again in less than 3k miles. New ones after 15K haven't started yet to show any signs of warpage (knock on wood hard ). I've actually measured recently their wobbling and it still the same or even better than the time they were new: < 30mkm or .001" if you wish. In my case it didn't matter that I used torgue wrench every time to tighten lug nuts - rotors were toast after first 10k miles anyway. One dealer's tech had courage to advise me that "You need to be easier on brakes". WTF, I need to brake hard sometimes! Complete BS, there's no way that quality rotors get warped after 10K. My point is simple though - OEM rotors can be just as good - you can't stop the car faster than your tires allow you anyway. In my case I also replaced stock brake pads with Porterfields when installing new rotors if it matters.

Mike.

 

Where can I get Brembo blanks??

 

Go with with some good aftermarket rotors, like the Stillen or Brembo. I know it sucks 'cause I've never had to change rotors on a car so new, but every car has its problems.
As for the SUV.....NOOOOOOOO! thats a big switch from a Max.

 

Yep, and luckly I retorqued and mounted my wheels again and haven't noticed any problems with warpage on my CL-S after 4600 miles. I did notice it starting before I did it, not its smooth again.

 

You know, for the life of me I can't find the receipt where I got mine. It was a place in Fall River, MA. I just did a search for Brembo and Maxima and they came up. I have not been able to find that place recently though. Sorry. If I find the receipt I'll pass the info on.

DW

 

Sorry to hear about your problems and I know your frustration. I had a Ford Contour that sucked up $2000 of my money getting rotors replaced before I gave up and traded that POS in for my 2k2.

The most frustrating part is that you go to the dealer to complain and they always give you the same line: Its the way you drive. With my Contour, it was the emergency brake cable that was seized, causing the rear rotors to overheat.

Personally, I haven't experienced any rotor issues with either of our Maxes. Our 2k Max is about 2 years old (40K km) now and we haven't had any issues with the rotors. Our 2K2 is 6 months old (13K km) and its also fine. I drive both fairly aggressively but I try to avoid lots of hard braking (I prefer to gear down).

Warped rotors can be caused by a number of things. As many people have mentioned in the thread, improper torquing of the lug nuts can easily warp the rotors. I believe the sequence in which the lug nuts are torqued down can also cause warping. A stuck emergency brake cable will also do it. Unfortunately, most shops are not interested in proper procedure and will just take an air gun to torque down the lugs.

Not to sound like the dealership, but another sure way to warp them is to get them nice and hot with lots of aggressive driving and then slam on the brakes.

If your rotors are repeatedly warping, it points to an ongoing mechanical problem with your car (i.e.: stuck E-brake) or your driving style. Also, don't bother with resurfacing. It only makes the rotors more prone to warping in the future.

 

Found the place I got my Brembos from! Here;


Brembo Blanks

Unfortunately, not for 5th gens Try and give them a call anyways



DW