Wakkus_Maximus

Well guys, I just finished the installation... and the Bose now sounds GREAT. For those of you who think the premium stock system doesn't puch really hard, I recommend this install. Had to put some silicone on my license plate to keep it from rattling due to the strong bass in the trunk.
I used 16' of 8-gauge wire for power, a 20A fuse (with it's fuse holder), and 2' of 4-gauge wire from the battery to the fuse. Drilled a hole on the diamond shaped clear on the firewall with a 7/16 drill bit, right at the center of it. Used a grommet to keep everything safe where the hole was made. Passed the power wire under the driver's side carpet... much easier than trying to pass it on the wire frame on the door molding. For connecting the Basslink input, didin't need the HI/LO converter. I connected the speaker level wires to to the BOSE subs. Both Bose subs are wired white/gray (+) and black/gray (-), so you just tap into those connections with the wires included on the basslink system, and connect them to the unit. I saughtered there for best results. The unit also has a remote gain controller, but I just screwed it to the trunk side, right on top of the sub. Any questions feel free to ask me. Here are some pics:











Here's my car domain page:

http://www.cardomain.com/id/wakkus_maximus

pae1215

iTrader: (3)

very clean install, looks great

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

I'm glad you could finish it, good job.......... and you didn't need the hi/low huh?

Wakkus_Maximus

The gain controller is up there for now, but will pass it later to the inside of the cabin. I was just tired today....

Wakkus_Maximus

Nope didn't need the HI/LO... the Basslink has a speaker level output, so I guess it converts the signal internally.

JPBOSS

I just ordered one and am waiting on it to come in. Picked it up for $179.00 brand new on ebay. So how is the sound there where you have it? Did you try moving it to different locations before deciding to put it there? That looks really good where you have it. BTW, where did you attach your Ground Wire? I am planning on devising a quick disconnect setup for my Basslink so that I can remove it to regain space if I need it.

CanadianMoFo

I think the speaker/input harness is a quick disconnect. So all you'll need to do is get a quick disconnect for the power and ground. Most people use the auto on feature built into the Basslink so there is no blue turn on wire to worry about.

I know I've seen some molded plastic quick disconnects out there for smaller guage wires (8ga) that the Basslink needs.

CM.

JPBOSS

If you could find a link to some of the 8ga. quick disconnects I would appreciate it. That's exactly what I am looking for.
Thanks, JP

carcus

Looks good! Same thing I did in the BMW. The bass can get addicting thouugh and you might end up stepping it up a bit. I can vouch though for a nice tight bass addition, Infinity does a good job.

Wakkus_Maximus

The only permanent change was a hole in the bottom of the dash in order to pass the wire, but it's a very clean installation. I took the backseat out and hooked the wire there. Wasn't able to test it in different spots because I just didn't wanted it to be anywhere else. It uses VERY little room where I have it.

JPBOSS

Ok, just upgraded my front door tweets to Kicker KS13 units. Used double-sided super 3M tape to stick crossover to inside of door panel just below mid-bass driver. Sounds a little brighter which was what I was trying to achieve. Now for the question. Wakkus, you said that you were going to eventually move the Infinity Sub remote from the trunk to inside the cabin and was wondering if you had a chance to yet? Also, I am going to be installing the BassLink in my '05 Max tomorrow and I think I have found the perfect place for the sub remote. Between my seat heater switches is a pop-in blank which would be perfect to mount the disassembled BassLink remote behind and have the **** sticking out. I was looking for a place to mount it and that seemed like a good place. The only problem is I don't know how to start disassembling the back part of the center console to get at the back of the switches where I can mount it? Anyone have any ideas?

Okiewan

Are you talking about one Basslink having more than one sub?

Wakkus_Maximus

Nahh I'm just saying that you have to wire the basslink to both subs in order to get every low freq input sent to the original subs. If the basslink is only connected to one of the subs (R or L) then low freq input sent to the one side not connected will not be heard on the basslink.
As far as the Gain remote control, I attached it with velcro to the floor carpet, at the bottom of the driver's seat, where the chasis' post is at. There's a hole on the carpet right at the bottom of the seat and that's a good spot to pass the cable. I just think that the remote looks kinda cool with the infinity brand on it, so decided to not take it apart.

bluemaxx

You may want to look for 18 ga instead of 8. 8 is about the size of a McStraw. No?

haunt14

bluemax, the higher the number the smaller the wire. meanin 18 gauge is like the remote wire and 0 gauge could be used as a lethal weopon.

Okiewan

Humm.. so this thing sounds good huh? Very cool if it punches up the bass... I looked / listened to one at Circuit City yesterday as a matter of fact. I REALLY like the size, just may have to get one. I'm sure not out to **** people off or rattle the back of the car off, but would like to add (maybe double?) the bass level of the Bose system.

The installer said if I don't like it, they'll take it out, would be out the install fee, but that's it.

Thanks for the info.

BudoTek

i just got my sub installed (alpine 12" w/ alpine m350 pushing it, Rock. Fos. 8ga amp kit ). love the way it sound the bass is definitely clean. but the basslink is great for most cases.
one piece of advice if your interior is black get a roll of wheatherstriping and put a 10-12" piece of it on the casing of the brake light thats just inside of the rear window. keep the rattling away...

Wakkus_Maximus

My 3rd brake light doesn't rattle, but the licesnse plate did. Had to put some silicone on the back on the plate, right where it rests on the trunk, to stop it from vibrating. And I usually listen on 18-22 volume, with the basslink at 1/3 from minimum gain...

carcus

I may have to do that BudoTek......stuffed socks under the rear deck, but still get the rattle....granted, pushing a big setup, but even nice stuff sounds like crap when you hear the rattle.





Few months ago the box shook apart. Once you put the weather stripping on the 3rd brake light, did it fit back in place OK?

JPBOSS

I just got through installing my BassLink and I am not too impressed. I am glad I just spent $179 on it on ebay as I will probably just turn around and end up selling it back on there. It does add some but it falls just a little short of what I was expecting. I will probably just go with a custom box with some high-excursion 10's or 12's and just turn them down. I was trying to save some money but it looks like I got what I paid for once again.

Wakkus_Maximus

Well, it's good enough for me. I installed the basslink sideways on the driver's side, and with the volume at 20, sub's gain at medium and bass control of the HU at +1, the back of the driver's seat vibrates as if you were getting a massage, and the rearview mirrors rattle like they're going to fall...

BudoTek

yup i didn't even remove the brake light. i cut about 3 little slits in back of the strip so i didn't have all the adhesive on the brake light. just enough to make sure it stays put. but i only needed to put it on the top part of the brake light. with a setup like yours you might want to try that 1st and if it still rattles then put some strips on the side.
my setup's not big so the brake light was the only thing that was causing the rattling.

good luck...