Basic Mods to see 300hp from the Max
Banned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,269
If you are considering sinking thousands into your VQ35 for better performance, read this..
It should, but most places will charge you more than that to take the engine apart and reassemble it to put those cams in...I guess If you have money to burn and want everything...why not?
Has anyone checked out the "SPORT COMPACT CAR"' article that compared 3 350Z's? I dont know what month, but its online somewhere...One car had tons of NISMO parts and another from a different tuner...but both VQ35 engines were modded with everything short of a turbo. The net result was virtually nothing when it came to performance (0-60 was the same withone and .1 better on the other) I was pretty much floored and it really makes ya think...
This car was engineered to perform its best out of the box.
Heres the article im talking about...
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/roadtests/0405scc_nismo/
Nismo 350Z
A tough nut to improve
By Dave Coleman
Photography: Guy Spangenberg
NISMO had it easy with the Spec V. In stock form, the fastest of the Sentras is far from its potential and NISMO, as we saw in last month's test, can work wonders with that scenario. Things aren't so easy in the land of Z. The 350Z, though certainly not at the limit of its chassis' capabilities, leaves relatively little on the table in stock form.
Take the Track Package 350Z that was the starting point for the NISMO R-Tune 350Z we test this month. What does it beg for? It already has big power and wads of torque. It already has big, forged Volk Racing wheels, and healthy Brembo brakes. It's already low, firm, well damped and responsive. The 350Z is not without fault, but none of its faults are very obvious.
Sponsored Links
350Z
Discover our low prices on a new 350Z
www.CarPriceSecrets.com
350z Nismo
350z Nismo for sale. aff Check out the deals now!
www.eBay.com
350Z Performance Products
Huge Selection of 350Z Parts Hotchkis, Injen, Volk, B&M, ACT
www.gscmotorsports.com
NISMO took to the Z like any other car, though, simply trying to add to the car's natural strengths. Power was attacked with the standard breathing mods.
Both the S-Tune (the silver one) and R-Tune (the blue one) cars we tested have NISMO's 304-stainless-steel cat-back exhaust. The stock exhaust's bottleneck is the Y-pipe that merges the flow from the two cylinder banks. The NISMO system, then, has to replace this part to get any gains. Before the Y, NISMO uses 2.4-inch tubing, afterward it's 3-inch. In total, the system weighs 9 pounds less than the stock one, but makes only about 4 hp in our dyno tests. (We had a stock Track Package Z along for all our testing so weather conditions wouldn't skew the results.) The exhaust sound, not surprisingly, is beautiful. The VQ35 is probably the sweetest-sounding V6 to come out of Japan--a huge improvement over the flatulent VG30--and NISMO's exhaust lets you hear it just that much better when you play with the throttle. At idle or light cruise, though, it's hardly louder than stock.
That's the extent of power mods for the S-Tune level (parts that are emissions legal and covered under a three-year, 36,000-mile warranty if they're installed by a Nissan dealer), but R-Tune starts looking quite good from here on out. At least on paper. The cramped exhaust manifolds are replaced with tubular headers crafted, again, from 304 stainless steel. The headers feature stepped primaries that grow from 1.625 inches to 1.750 inches before merging in 2.25-inch collectors. Next, the R-Tune gets a mild set of cams. Valve lift is increased from 0.376 inches to 0.426 inches and duration steps up from 240 degrees to 262. The cams offer little downside, thanks to the Z's variable intake cam timing. With the system automatically dialing out valve overlap at idle and low rpm, there's none of the lopey idle you might secretly wish for. Instead, there's just a subtle occasional misfire at idle and the same responsive, torquey bottom end the engine already had.
The cams do hide one dirty little secret, though. Labor costs. Installation is, at best, an eight- to 10-hour job. It's a similar story with the headers, which typically take five to six hours to install. Start counting parts (four cams, two headers) and labor hours, and you start to understand the appeal of the inline four.
The crowning underhood jewel, at least acoustically, is the cold-air intake. Now, to be perfectly fair, the stock intake is also a cold-air intake, taking its air from ahead of the radiator. The aluminum NISMO piece adds some healthy acoustic resonance tuning, and with that comes a howl that's easily the car's most rewarding aspect. Romp on the throttle and the combined sound from the intake and exhaust is soul stirring. Do it in a tunnel and you won't be able to stand up for an hour.
The bad news? Only 10 hp on our dyno. Nissan claims 23 hp for all this work, and if you live in Texas, Michigan, or any of the other quickly dwindling Edens where they still sell gasoline, we'd advise you to believe them. That kind of power isn't going to happen on the regurgitated dinosaur excrement the California refineries like to call premium gas. Even in stock form, the 350Z lives its 91-octane life on the knock sensor, and with the ECU retarding timing almost as fast as the NISMO parts increase cylinder filling, there's no power to be had. What NISMO needs for the octane limited is an ECU with a less aggressive timing map, but it doesn't have one at this point.OK, enough crying about our gas. If you live in the land of 91, be prepared to splash in a few gallons of $6.00/gallon 100 octane at every fill-up if you want all those parts to make anything more than noise.
So let's talk suspension. NISMO seems to think that if it tells us the spring rates, we're all going to whittle our own Zs out of Popsicle sticks, so NISMO guards them like formulas for nerve gas. That leaves us with little but the droll observation that the NISMO springs are stiffer than the stock ones. You probably already guessed that. You probably didn't guess that in some conditions, the NISMO suspension (springs, shocks and stiffer hollow anti-roll bars at both ends) actually rides better than stock. No, really.
The stock Z is what we like to call "choppy" on the rhythmically misaligned concrete slabs that make up L.A. freeways. NISMO seems to pair its secret, stiffer springs with shocks that have slightly less low-speed damping. In shock-talk, low speed doesn't mean driving slow, it means big body motions, like the ones that makes us use the word "choppy." In most situations, the NISMO suspension feels firm and perfectly damped, but seldom harsh. If you're about 175 pounds, you may find that the driver's seat is tuned to exactly your natural frequency. More than once we found ourselves bouncing around inside the car when the car itself seemed to be smoothly and obediently following the road.
Other than that chop thing, which only seems to matter if you live in downtown L.A., the stock Z suspension's only fault is persistent understeer at the limit (no, the limit is not when you spin the rear tires). The NISMO suspension doesn't improve this. Grip is increased, sharpness sharpened, but the balance is about where it was before.
That's all S-Tune. R-Tune adds a clever, adjustable clutch-type limited slip. The NISMO limited slip can be set up as a two-way (works under acceleration and engine braking) or 1.5-way (same thing, but it's not as strong under engine braking). We recommend 1.5-way. The pre-load on the clutch packs is also adjustable by removing the right-hand stub axle and stuffing a 19mm socket in the hole. The three settings give a breakaway torque of 50, 69, or 101 lb-ft.
If you disassemble the differential, of course, you could also lower the breakaway torque even more by re-arranging the 10 clutch plates on each side of the diff so that some of them are inactive. NISMO doesn't officially state this, but it doesn't have to, that's just how clutch-type diffs work. The NISMO diff is also stronger than the stock one, since it transmits torque through four pinion gears instead of the stock diff's two.
We don't know how the diff in our car was set up, but whatever it was, it was too tight for the street. On the track, where you brake, turn, and accelerate through every corner in the same smooth, predictable fashion, a tight limited slip can be good. Drive a narrow, twisty mountain road at night, though, and you won't be laying into the gas at the apex and holding it down all the way to the next corner. Not with 249 hp at the wheels. Instead, you tend to feed in and out of the gas as you try to stay between the yellow line and the white one and figure out when this damn corner is going to end.
Rolling on and off the throttle like this makes the rear wheels lock together and release every time, which makes the front tires push and then grab with every move of your right foot. That makes you look like a swervy monkey. Don't believe us? Look at the skidpad results. The S-Tune car, which uses the loose factory limited slip, pulled an impressive 0.98g. The R-Tune Z, with exactly the same suspension, but the NISMO diff, pulled "only" 0.95.
Based on our experience with Project 350Z, we'd still recommend the NISMO diff, but set it at the loosest setting and if it still does the swervy thing described above, take it apart and start swapping discs. Remember, it took us three tries to get the KAAZ diff right in our project car.
You've been wondering about that body kit, haven't you? Here's the deal. The air dam is made of the same flexy thermoplastic stuff as the front bumper, so when you ram it into things, it won't get as screwed up as your typical aftermarket stuff. The front bumper on the R-tune car is from Japan, though, so don't expect to get that with your frot spoiler. You'll only get the bottom lip. The NISMO side skirts are a direct replacement for the stock ones. You don't tack the NISMO stuff on top, you take the stock ones off and put the NISMO ones in their place. That's the way things should be.
Finally, the wing. It looks exactly like the Japanese NISMO wing, but the Japanese one is fiberglass, and that just won't do. The U.S. version is ABS plastic.
The R-Tune Z was also packing NISMO brake pads, which are kind of difficult to evaluate without harder flogging than we managed. The stock Track Package Brembos feel great. The same brakes with NISMO pads also feel great. Our measured stopping distances with the stickier tires and the NISMO pads, though, were slightly longer. What these numbers don't show is that the NISMO pads actually faded from 119 feet to 127 feet in four stops. This is a sure sign that the pads weren't properly bedded in before our testing. Had we retested them after a proper cool down, this fade would probably be gone. We didn't think of doing that until we were already home. We're not always as smart as we try to be. n
Originally Posted by 05MAXSE
For a 15hp gain it should retail for no more than $300.
Has anyone checked out the "SPORT COMPACT CAR"' article that compared 3 350Z's? I dont know what month, but its online somewhere...One car had tons of NISMO parts and another from a different tuner...but both VQ35 engines were modded with everything short of a turbo. The net result was virtually nothing when it came to performance (0-60 was the same withone and .1 better on the other) I was pretty much floored and it really makes ya think...
This car was engineered to perform its best out of the box.Heres the article im talking about...
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/roadtests/0405scc_nismo/
Nismo 350Z
A tough nut to improve
By Dave Coleman
Photography: Guy Spangenberg
NISMO had it easy with the Spec V. In stock form, the fastest of the Sentras is far from its potential and NISMO, as we saw in last month's test, can work wonders with that scenario. Things aren't so easy in the land of Z. The 350Z, though certainly not at the limit of its chassis' capabilities, leaves relatively little on the table in stock form.
Take the Track Package 350Z that was the starting point for the NISMO R-Tune 350Z we test this month. What does it beg for? It already has big power and wads of torque. It already has big, forged Volk Racing wheels, and healthy Brembo brakes. It's already low, firm, well damped and responsive. The 350Z is not without fault, but none of its faults are very obvious.
Sponsored Links
350Z
Discover our low prices on a new 350Z
www.CarPriceSecrets.com
350z Nismo
350z Nismo for sale. aff Check out the deals now!
www.eBay.com
350Z Performance Products
Huge Selection of 350Z Parts Hotchkis, Injen, Volk, B&M, ACT
www.gscmotorsports.com
NISMO took to the Z like any other car, though, simply trying to add to the car's natural strengths. Power was attacked with the standard breathing mods.
Both the S-Tune (the silver one) and R-Tune (the blue one) cars we tested have NISMO's 304-stainless-steel cat-back exhaust. The stock exhaust's bottleneck is the Y-pipe that merges the flow from the two cylinder banks. The NISMO system, then, has to replace this part to get any gains. Before the Y, NISMO uses 2.4-inch tubing, afterward it's 3-inch. In total, the system weighs 9 pounds less than the stock one, but makes only about 4 hp in our dyno tests. (We had a stock Track Package Z along for all our testing so weather conditions wouldn't skew the results.) The exhaust sound, not surprisingly, is beautiful. The VQ35 is probably the sweetest-sounding V6 to come out of Japan--a huge improvement over the flatulent VG30--and NISMO's exhaust lets you hear it just that much better when you play with the throttle. At idle or light cruise, though, it's hardly louder than stock.
That's the extent of power mods for the S-Tune level (parts that are emissions legal and covered under a three-year, 36,000-mile warranty if they're installed by a Nissan dealer), but R-Tune starts looking quite good from here on out. At least on paper. The cramped exhaust manifolds are replaced with tubular headers crafted, again, from 304 stainless steel. The headers feature stepped primaries that grow from 1.625 inches to 1.750 inches before merging in 2.25-inch collectors. Next, the R-Tune gets a mild set of cams. Valve lift is increased from 0.376 inches to 0.426 inches and duration steps up from 240 degrees to 262. The cams offer little downside, thanks to the Z's variable intake cam timing. With the system automatically dialing out valve overlap at idle and low rpm, there's none of the lopey idle you might secretly wish for. Instead, there's just a subtle occasional misfire at idle and the same responsive, torquey bottom end the engine already had.
The cams do hide one dirty little secret, though. Labor costs. Installation is, at best, an eight- to 10-hour job. It's a similar story with the headers, which typically take five to six hours to install. Start counting parts (four cams, two headers) and labor hours, and you start to understand the appeal of the inline four.
The crowning underhood jewel, at least acoustically, is the cold-air intake. Now, to be perfectly fair, the stock intake is also a cold-air intake, taking its air from ahead of the radiator. The aluminum NISMO piece adds some healthy acoustic resonance tuning, and with that comes a howl that's easily the car's most rewarding aspect. Romp on the throttle and the combined sound from the intake and exhaust is soul stirring. Do it in a tunnel and you won't be able to stand up for an hour.
The bad news? Only 10 hp on our dyno. Nissan claims 23 hp for all this work, and if you live in Texas, Michigan, or any of the other quickly dwindling Edens where they still sell gasoline, we'd advise you to believe them. That kind of power isn't going to happen on the regurgitated dinosaur excrement the California refineries like to call premium gas. Even in stock form, the 350Z lives its 91-octane life on the knock sensor, and with the ECU retarding timing almost as fast as the NISMO parts increase cylinder filling, there's no power to be had. What NISMO needs for the octane limited is an ECU with a less aggressive timing map, but it doesn't have one at this point.OK, enough crying about our gas. If you live in the land of 91, be prepared to splash in a few gallons of $6.00/gallon 100 octane at every fill-up if you want all those parts to make anything more than noise.
So let's talk suspension. NISMO seems to think that if it tells us the spring rates, we're all going to whittle our own Zs out of Popsicle sticks, so NISMO guards them like formulas for nerve gas. That leaves us with little but the droll observation that the NISMO springs are stiffer than the stock ones. You probably already guessed that. You probably didn't guess that in some conditions, the NISMO suspension (springs, shocks and stiffer hollow anti-roll bars at both ends) actually rides better than stock. No, really.
The stock Z is what we like to call "choppy" on the rhythmically misaligned concrete slabs that make up L.A. freeways. NISMO seems to pair its secret, stiffer springs with shocks that have slightly less low-speed damping. In shock-talk, low speed doesn't mean driving slow, it means big body motions, like the ones that makes us use the word "choppy." In most situations, the NISMO suspension feels firm and perfectly damped, but seldom harsh. If you're about 175 pounds, you may find that the driver's seat is tuned to exactly your natural frequency. More than once we found ourselves bouncing around inside the car when the car itself seemed to be smoothly and obediently following the road.
Other than that chop thing, which only seems to matter if you live in downtown L.A., the stock Z suspension's only fault is persistent understeer at the limit (no, the limit is not when you spin the rear tires). The NISMO suspension doesn't improve this. Grip is increased, sharpness sharpened, but the balance is about where it was before.
That's all S-Tune. R-Tune adds a clever, adjustable clutch-type limited slip. The NISMO limited slip can be set up as a two-way (works under acceleration and engine braking) or 1.5-way (same thing, but it's not as strong under engine braking). We recommend 1.5-way. The pre-load on the clutch packs is also adjustable by removing the right-hand stub axle and stuffing a 19mm socket in the hole. The three settings give a breakaway torque of 50, 69, or 101 lb-ft.
If you disassemble the differential, of course, you could also lower the breakaway torque even more by re-arranging the 10 clutch plates on each side of the diff so that some of them are inactive. NISMO doesn't officially state this, but it doesn't have to, that's just how clutch-type diffs work. The NISMO diff is also stronger than the stock one, since it transmits torque through four pinion gears instead of the stock diff's two.
We don't know how the diff in our car was set up, but whatever it was, it was too tight for the street. On the track, where you brake, turn, and accelerate through every corner in the same smooth, predictable fashion, a tight limited slip can be good. Drive a narrow, twisty mountain road at night, though, and you won't be laying into the gas at the apex and holding it down all the way to the next corner. Not with 249 hp at the wheels. Instead, you tend to feed in and out of the gas as you try to stay between the yellow line and the white one and figure out when this damn corner is going to end.
Rolling on and off the throttle like this makes the rear wheels lock together and release every time, which makes the front tires push and then grab with every move of your right foot. That makes you look like a swervy monkey. Don't believe us? Look at the skidpad results. The S-Tune car, which uses the loose factory limited slip, pulled an impressive 0.98g. The R-Tune Z, with exactly the same suspension, but the NISMO diff, pulled "only" 0.95.
Based on our experience with Project 350Z, we'd still recommend the NISMO diff, but set it at the loosest setting and if it still does the swervy thing described above, take it apart and start swapping discs. Remember, it took us three tries to get the KAAZ diff right in our project car.
You've been wondering about that body kit, haven't you? Here's the deal. The air dam is made of the same flexy thermoplastic stuff as the front bumper, so when you ram it into things, it won't get as screwed up as your typical aftermarket stuff. The front bumper on the R-tune car is from Japan, though, so don't expect to get that with your frot spoiler. You'll only get the bottom lip. The NISMO side skirts are a direct replacement for the stock ones. You don't tack the NISMO stuff on top, you take the stock ones off and put the NISMO ones in their place. That's the way things should be.
Finally, the wing. It looks exactly like the Japanese NISMO wing, but the Japanese one is fiberglass, and that just won't do. The U.S. version is ABS plastic.
The R-Tune Z was also packing NISMO brake pads, which are kind of difficult to evaluate without harder flogging than we managed. The stock Track Package Brembos feel great. The same brakes with NISMO pads also feel great. Our measured stopping distances with the stickier tires and the NISMO pads, though, were slightly longer. What these numbers don't show is that the NISMO pads actually faded from 119 feet to 127 feet in four stops. This is a sure sign that the pads weren't properly bedded in before our testing. Had we retested them after a proper cool down, this fade would probably be gone. We didn't think of doing that until we were already home. We're not always as smart as we try to be. n
Banned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,269
Isnt it crazy the numbers they got after spending...gulp...$14,000? I see people spending a fraction of this on this motor believing it is going to make the car faster.
Here is what this thread asks for...a VQ35DE with 300hp.
This 350Z has a "claimed" 305Hp...and has gained a .1 of a second improvement in the quarter mile...If everyone knew that, nobody would buy any of these mods, but they continue to sell because of clever marketing...and people who just want to spend money on mods with no rhyme or reason.
Ive never seen any discussion on ECU mapping in the 6th gen forum, isnt this where things should start before we even think of mods?
Here is what this thread asks for...a VQ35DE with 300hp.
This 350Z has a "claimed" 305Hp...and has gained a .1 of a second improvement in the quarter mile...If everyone knew that, nobody would buy any of these mods, but they continue to sell because of clever marketing...and people who just want to spend money on mods with no rhyme or reason.
Ive never seen any discussion on ECU mapping in the 6th gen forum, isnt this where things should start before we even think of mods?
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Th RWD 3.5L's are essentially at thier limit N/A & bolt ons, unless boost is introduced.
I had my car on a Mustang Dyno today and I learned a few things. I do concur that they're awesome for tuning, my car is now tuned the best it's ever been, but don't dare try to use them to compare to another car on a different dyno.
I also have a graph of my dyno compared to a Porsche 911 (996 NA w/10k in engine work). A33B > 996
I also have a graph of my dyno compared to a Porsche 911 (996 NA w/10k in engine work). A33B > 996
Faster?
I mean DAMN ... My VR6 that I had before this pulled like a **** and the Max is a monster compared to it. I can't see myself wanting or needing anything more powerful, beside MAYBE a CAI. I used to get chewed by 18yo kids in their blazin flourescent colored rice patties and i've yet to see any of them in front of me since I got my Max and I doubt I will. The Max is powerful and fast enough to keep me alive. Otherwise I woulda gotten a WRX or a Lancer EVO. VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!! and ya DEAD!!!
Newbie just Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I had my car on a Mustang Dyno today and I learned a few things. I do concur that they're awesome for tuning, my car is now tuned the best it's ever been, but don't dare try to use them to compare to another car on a different dyno.
I also have a graph of my dyno compared to a Porsche 911 (996 NA w/10k in engine work). A33B > 996
I also have a graph of my dyno compared to a Porsche 911 (996 NA w/10k in engine work). A33B > 996
VQ35 
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by 04BlackMaxx
Isnt it crazy the numbers they got after spending...gulp...$14,000? I see people spending a fraction of this on this motor believing it is going to make the car faster.
Here is what this thread asks for...a VQ35DE with 300hp.
This 350Z has a "claimed" 305Hp...and has gained a .1 of a second improvement in the quarter mile...If everyone knew that, nobody would buy any of these mods, but they continue to sell because of clever marketing...and people who just want to spend money on mods with no rhyme or reason.
Ive never seen any discussion on ECU mapping in the 6th gen forum, isnt this where things should start before we even think of mods?
Here is what this thread asks for...a VQ35DE with 300hp.
This 350Z has a "claimed" 305Hp...and has gained a .1 of a second improvement in the quarter mile...If everyone knew that, nobody would buy any of these mods, but they continue to sell because of clever marketing...and people who just want to spend money on mods with no rhyme or reason.
Ive never seen any discussion on ECU mapping in the 6th gen forum, isnt this where things should start before we even think of mods?
Nissan bored out the V6 to make it a 4 liter in my Pathfinder and it is listed as 270hp and 291lb-ft torque. Why is it that the 4 liter only make 5 more hp and 36lb-ft of torque? Souldn't this engine make more HP? What is restricting its HP?
Who is gonna throw caution to the wind and bore out their 3.5 liter and add the cams, etc to see what this thing can really do? I know it ain't me but somebody should/could do it!!
Who is gonna throw caution to the wind and bore out their 3.5 liter and add the cams, etc to see what this thing can really do? I know it ain't me but somebody should/could do it!!
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 50
Originally Posted by bgates1654
"For a 15hp gain it should retail for no more than $300."
Thats actually pretty lowball. As I understand it $50/hp is the standard or perhaps the maximum. $20/hp is friggin cheap.
Thats actually pretty lowball. As I understand it $50/hp is the standard or perhaps the maximum. $20/hp is friggin cheap.
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,586
From: the OC & Silicon Valley
wow...i actually took the time to read all this and i got a good laugh. thank you chernmax and deus for entertaining me for the past twenty minutes. it appears everyone went from bashing sr20 and e55 to singing kumbaya 
ramberg: i know i talked to you a LONG time ago about your dyno slips. i really can't wait to see those DJ numbers. keep us posted!
ramberg: i know i talked to you a LONG time ago about your dyno slips. i really can't wait to see those DJ numbers. keep us posted!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by ighettoboyi
wow...i actually took the time to read all this and i got a good laugh. thank you chernmax and deus for entertaining me for the past twenty minutes. it appears everyone went from bashing sr20 and e55 to singing kumbaya
ramberg: i know i talked to you a LONG time ago about your dyno slips. i really can't wait to see those DJ numbers. keep us posted!
ramberg: i know i talked to you a LONG time ago about your dyno slips. i really can't wait to see those DJ numbers. keep us posted!
, I never said I could do it all... 
I had fun too...
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,554
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I had my car on a Mustang Dyno today and I learned a few things. I do concur that they're awesome for tuning, my car is now tuned the best it's ever been, but don't dare try to use them to compare to another car on a different dyno.
I also have a graph of my dyno compared to a Porsche 911 (996 NA w/10k in engine work). A33B > 996
I also have a graph of my dyno compared to a Porsche 911 (996 NA w/10k in engine work). A33B > 996
yea, i still rather drive the porsche though.
Originally Posted by mauriceallen
i would like to know if n e one has done a swap of the non bose system for the bose navigation system and will i have a problem
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 943
From: Denver, CO
Somewhere (I can't seem to find the link right now), someone offers a service that will rebore your VQ35DE into a 4.6 liter engine. I know it's not a "basic" mod (IIRC it was like $6K), but that would definately get you over 300HP.
No no ...
Banned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,269
Once a turbo kit come out for the 6th gen we can have real power gains...pony up $4,000 or so, plus install, and it would be worth it...then we are talking 400 crank Hp. @ about 6-8Psi of boost...or atleast its what they claim...if you wanna do anything, do it right. If someone has the dough you can take the car to a shop where they can custom make tubes for the turbo and a bracket it can be done.
Newbie just Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Welcome to the Maxima world. ...
Banned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,269
You dont want to go to big with the turbo or else the lag will be so bad the car wont be good off the line, you also gotta take into consideration the compression ratio of the VQ and that gains beyond 50% at the crank will ruin the drivetrain.
Newbie just Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
I'm not looking for 10 sec 1/4 mile, just more solid performance. According to this article:http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/ro...0405scc_nismo/, I saw in the other gen's forum, without ECU upgrade it's cheaper to get boosted to break the 300hp. Check out the performance section of the article.
Originally Posted by Monotaur
Somewhere (I can't seem to find the link right now), someone offers a service that will rebore your VQ35DE into a 4.6 liter engine. I know it's not a "basic" mod (IIRC it was like $6K), but that would definately get you over 300HP.
Newbie just Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
Originally Posted by E55AMG2
4.2l and $7800, and should net 360+whp (475 crank) on a 4AT maxima
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1
upgrading
im currently debating whether i should go with some 22in wheels on my maxima. i have it dropped 2in in the rear and .8in in the front with eibach sprins. i currently have 20in wheels but i wanna upgrade. my question is if i can fit them and if i can, will i have any problems with them?
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by unotsd
im currently debating whether i should go with some 22in wheels on my maxima. i have it dropped 2in in the rear and .8in in the front with eibach sprins. i currently have 20in wheels but i wanna upgrade. my question is if i can fit them and if i can, will i have any problems with them?
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
chern sorry but this has nothing to do with the post ...
IMO.. Anything larger than 20's is
IMO.. Anything larger than 20's is
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by chernmax
OK, let me rephrase, anyone moving up to a bigger tire size like 20's or 22's will probably be working against his goal to achieve 300hp because of the added weight. Sorry I went OT...
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 230
Originally Posted by chernmax
Actually, he may still achieve 300hp, however with the added weight, may be still taken by a guy with 270-280hp.
Has anyone weighed those bigger wheel/tire combinations to see just how much more mass we are talking here? Yes, assuming the tire width remains the same and the aspect ratio decreases, the tire will weigh less, but the added wheel size should more than make up for that.
I've always been an old BBS style (the cross hatch X look) as I thought, at one time at least, it weighed less for the strength it gave. The wheels these days seem to be more for looks than function, and I imagine are fairly heavy.
Newbie just Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
Originally Posted by darrinps
Although this is getting OT, I was thinking the same thing.
Has anyone weighed those bigger wheel/tire combinations to see just how much more mass we are talking here? Yes, assuming the tire width remains the same and the aspect ratio decreases, the tire will weigh less, but the added wheel size should more than make up for that...
Has anyone weighed those bigger wheel/tire combinations to see just how much more mass we are talking here? Yes, assuming the tire width remains the same and the aspect ratio decreases, the tire will weigh less, but the added wheel size should more than make up for that...
I think w/ 300 hp
, the SL's have slight advantage in quickness w/ 17's, but SE's would handle a little better. But 17's with stiff sidewalls would be a different story. Bigger wheels w/ 300 hp engine will transfer less power to the ground. There, that should get us back on track 