Removing Tint From Back Window
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 87
Removing Tint From Back Window
Has anyone tried removing tint from the back window. I'm thinking of going a little darker than the 35% i have and am curious how easy/hard it was to remove without damaging the defroster or radio antenna.
Anyone ever try to put tint on top of tint?
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Anyone ever try to put tint on top of tint?
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Go ask a tint shop what they use, never hurts to ask for help from an expert, especially with the back window, you don't want rip up your rear window defogger. I found this on the internet which may help, good luck...
Time: 1-3 hours
Materials:
Warm sunny day
Tarp
Large plastic garbage bag
Undiluted Ammonia
Windex (a glass cleaner)
Paper towels
Fine steel wool
Razor blades
Tools:
Slotted Screwdrivers
Phillips Screwdrivers
Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.
Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.
Step 2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.
Step 3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass.
Step 4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate.
Step 5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.
Step 6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel.
Step 7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool.
Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
Removing tint from side windows
Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces.
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels. Inspect for missed glue (its clear and hard to see)
Another way to strip using steam
If you have access to a Jiffy steamer or similar steam machine, you can make quick work of stripping. Apply the steam to a small spot for a few moments and use a blade or the spout of the steamer to peel the area just steamed, when you have enough to hold, just peel slowly as you steam just ahead of the area you are peeling.
This will bring both layers of tint off and sometimes the adhesive too, without presoaking for an hour.
Customers
If you dont know how to correctly strip off old tint, its probably best if you dont try.....It will only cost you more.
I had a guy come in about a week ago. He asked for an estimate to strip and retint his 2dr civic. I gave him the price for both. This much for the car and this much/hr to strip. He makes an appt. for me to tint the car, but said he wanted to save some money so he was going to strip it himself. I told him how to do it, but I also told him that if he tries and messes up i.e., doesnt get it all off, just pulls the film and leaves glue, kills his defrosters, scratches the glass, it was only going to cost him more. He said "well it doesnt look that hard" and left. A couple days later he brings it in for me to tint. This guy ruined every piece of glass in his car. On the B/W he killed the defosters, and left glue and tint throughout the matrix. On the 1/4's he scratched the frit all to hell (black boarder around glass for the noobs), and on the doors scratched the shiot out of them as well. After all that I STILL had to charge him to finish the job.
In the end this guy didnt save a dime. Instead he ruined all his glass, and probably a whole Saturday doing so. When he picked it up I asked how he did all the damage (I knew he didnt do what I had told him). The guy told me this....."Na man, the way you told me didnt work for shiot. I just took a 4" scraper blade from Home Depot and put that in some Vise Grips. That worked sooo much better" I couldnt believe my ears!!!
So you see what I mean everyone? Even if it costs just a little more to have the job done right, wouldnt you rather do that than what this guy did? Not to mention, youre going to make the whole job much easier for the tinter! Which in turn will more than likely get you a better job in the end.
A good question about stripping
From SUZIE:
hi, so glad i found your website. i'm one of the fools trying to remove really old, really bubbled, baked on tint from my hatchback window with defroster lines. i've unfortunately already picked and pulled at most of it before i decided to search for help. i have all the stuff need to follow your instructions but i'm a little confused about the plastic bag part. do i need two bags? one for the outside and one to cover the tinted inside once i've sprayed the ammonia? please help so i can finally see out my back window.
thanks.
The reply
No, you just need one bag, the bag is to cover the ammonia that is sprayed onto the film (on the inside) so that the ammonia wont evaporate. The bag is first laid onto the outside just to cut it to shape. Unfortunately once the film has been partially stripped this method wont work well. You should still soak it, but dont expect to be able to peel it off (because there is no longer a continuous piece of film).
I suggest soaking it as normal, then expose only a small area at a time to pick at the film, then peel back the garbage back a little more and work that area. At this point you are looking at about 3 hours of sweaty hard frustrating work. If you can afford it, have a shop strip the rear window for you, it shouldnt cost more that 50$ an it will save you a lot of aggrivation.
Removing residential film
Your best bet for removing film from residential glass is to soak them in soapy water instead of ammonia, using the garbage bag method described above. Let them soak for an hour or so, then you will need to use a wide razor scraping tool (about 4" wide razor blade scrapers are available at the hardware store) to remove the film and adhesive.
Concentrate on removing all of the film, then spray the window with more soapy water and use a new blade to remove the left over adhesive. Windex will also work well instead of dish soapy water. Straight ammonia should not be used as there would be so much, it would be hard to breath in the area.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
User submitted tips:
Email: anon@anon.com
Name: Anonymous
Tint Removal Tip: Instead of using ammonia try the all purpose cleaner 409. It smells alot better and will preform the same task.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Peter
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: To remove the excess glue after taking off the film, spray some WD40 then with some fine steel wool give it a good rub then wipe if off with paper towel then clean with proper glass cleaner.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: min soo
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: best way to remove film is spray soapy water on the film, put garbage bag over and let it soak for about 10 min facing the sun, then just peel it off. it works great. side window too.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: £â§ê®
Email: anon@anon.com
Tinting Tip: My friend and I sorta stumbled across this the other day. If you use a can of De-Ice and wipe fairly hard it will remove the glue with great ease. It works wonders on defrost lines.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Anonymous
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: Use a heat gun to heat up an area of the tint (careful not to burn your hand as the gun will reach very high temperatures). This will in essence melt the glue. Start peeling the heated section & repeat this for the entire window. Use GOO-GONE or GOO-AWAY with a cloth/crudrag (not paper towel) to clean window after tint is removed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: jonathan
Email: jonathan@imabadlittleboy.com
Tint Removal Tip: I have also used simply green instead of ammonia. This also smells much better.THE CHEAPER STUFF DOESN'T EVEN COME CLOSE TO WORKING!!(like Mean Green)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Paul Najjar Perth Australia
Email: tinttech@bigpond.com
Tint Removal Tip: The steam method is mostuseful on older dyed polyester or laminated films but is not so effective on newer recently applied metal based tints.(such as when the cops have said to remove the dark film)I find the glue will stay behind making more work. I am more inclined to peel the film ever so slowly without the use of any chemicals or heat and I have found that most of the adhesive will come off with the tint. This works particularly well with one piece rears. You may have to just spot remove some minor remnants of glue with detergent and fine grade steel wool to finish off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Anonymous
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: TO SPEED UP THIS PROCESS, IN ADDITION TO FACING THE REAR GLASS TOWARDS THE SUN, LEAVE THE CAR RUNNING WITH THE DEFROST ON HEAT AND HIGH AND THE REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER ON. I USUALLY ONLY WAIT 10 MINUTES AND THE FILM COMES OFF WITH THE ADHESIVE. IF THE FILM HAS STARTED TO DELAMINATE ALREADY, WAIT LONGER. DON'T FORGET TO LEAVE THE DOORS UNLOCKED SO YOU DON'T LOCK THE KEYS IN THE CAR!!!!!!!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Dan Georges
Email: dgeorges@***.net
Tint Removal Tip: I have a sugestion to make breathing a whole lot easier. the steps you mentiond are perfect, but instead of using ammonia, try using simple green. dilute a spray bottle 50% water and 50% simple green. spray it on the film, trap it with a plastic bag. 20 min or so in the sun even the ugliest, bubbled tint will come off. then use full simple green on the remaining adhesive left behind and bingo, steel wool (super fine) will melt the rest off. plus it smells much better than ammonia. works for me and i am a 16 year vet. hope it helps.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Gerardo (Jerry)
Email: kingoftint@hotmail.com
Tint Removal Tip: Make your life alot easier and let the professionals do the job. It might cost you a little but call and ask shops if they can save the defroster lines on your rear window, no one will promise it but if they now what they are doing they will most likely be able to. You will know just by your conversations. Because the customer is unexperienced you will save yourself the headache and lots of time, eitherway it is only going to cost you a little more than if you have to go out and by all the products to remove the film.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: David Finch
Email: phishsampl@aol.com
Tint Removal Tip: I used a steamer to take the tint of my Ferrari, and it came off in a minute. Talk about a car u wanna be careful with. Use a steamer like the professionals. It will save time and effort.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: M. Colford
Comments: On removing the tint from the side windows, I would suggest that
instead of using straight ammonia, go to some 5 and dime store,
and find the cheapest glass cleaner you can. This eliminates the
ammonia smell, but there is ammonia in the cleaner. Make sure the
cleaner has ammonia in it though. For the rear window, me and a
friend used the cheap glass cleaner and a heat gun. Peel part of
the tint away in a corner in the top, and shoot some of the cleaner
down in between the tint and glass. Then have someone on the
outside use the heatgun on LOW aimed at the area that you are
peeling at. This loosens the glue, and allows the cleaner in to get
to mroe tint. You will spray a good amount of glass cleaner, but it
is safe on the defrosters, and there is not a strong smell.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TintDude.com
Time: 1-3 hours
Materials:
Warm sunny day
Tarp
Large plastic garbage bag
Undiluted Ammonia
Windex (a glass cleaner)
Paper towels
Fine steel wool
Razor blades
Tools:
Slotted Screwdrivers
Phillips Screwdrivers
Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.
Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.
Step 2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.
Step 3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass.
Step 4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate.
Step 5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.
Step 6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel.
Step 7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool.
Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
Removing tint from side windows
Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces.
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels. Inspect for missed glue (its clear and hard to see)
Another way to strip using steam
If you have access to a Jiffy steamer or similar steam machine, you can make quick work of stripping. Apply the steam to a small spot for a few moments and use a blade or the spout of the steamer to peel the area just steamed, when you have enough to hold, just peel slowly as you steam just ahead of the area you are peeling.
This will bring both layers of tint off and sometimes the adhesive too, without presoaking for an hour.
Customers
If you dont know how to correctly strip off old tint, its probably best if you dont try.....It will only cost you more.
I had a guy come in about a week ago. He asked for an estimate to strip and retint his 2dr civic. I gave him the price for both. This much for the car and this much/hr to strip. He makes an appt. for me to tint the car, but said he wanted to save some money so he was going to strip it himself. I told him how to do it, but I also told him that if he tries and messes up i.e., doesnt get it all off, just pulls the film and leaves glue, kills his defrosters, scratches the glass, it was only going to cost him more. He said "well it doesnt look that hard" and left. A couple days later he brings it in for me to tint. This guy ruined every piece of glass in his car. On the B/W he killed the defosters, and left glue and tint throughout the matrix. On the 1/4's he scratched the frit all to hell (black boarder around glass for the noobs), and on the doors scratched the shiot out of them as well. After all that I STILL had to charge him to finish the job.
In the end this guy didnt save a dime. Instead he ruined all his glass, and probably a whole Saturday doing so. When he picked it up I asked how he did all the damage (I knew he didnt do what I had told him). The guy told me this....."Na man, the way you told me didnt work for shiot. I just took a 4" scraper blade from Home Depot and put that in some Vise Grips. That worked sooo much better" I couldnt believe my ears!!!
So you see what I mean everyone? Even if it costs just a little more to have the job done right, wouldnt you rather do that than what this guy did? Not to mention, youre going to make the whole job much easier for the tinter! Which in turn will more than likely get you a better job in the end.
A good question about stripping
From SUZIE:
hi, so glad i found your website. i'm one of the fools trying to remove really old, really bubbled, baked on tint from my hatchback window with defroster lines. i've unfortunately already picked and pulled at most of it before i decided to search for help. i have all the stuff need to follow your instructions but i'm a little confused about the plastic bag part. do i need two bags? one for the outside and one to cover the tinted inside once i've sprayed the ammonia? please help so i can finally see out my back window.
thanks.
The reply
No, you just need one bag, the bag is to cover the ammonia that is sprayed onto the film (on the inside) so that the ammonia wont evaporate. The bag is first laid onto the outside just to cut it to shape. Unfortunately once the film has been partially stripped this method wont work well. You should still soak it, but dont expect to be able to peel it off (because there is no longer a continuous piece of film).
I suggest soaking it as normal, then expose only a small area at a time to pick at the film, then peel back the garbage back a little more and work that area. At this point you are looking at about 3 hours of sweaty hard frustrating work. If you can afford it, have a shop strip the rear window for you, it shouldnt cost more that 50$ an it will save you a lot of aggrivation.
Removing residential film
Your best bet for removing film from residential glass is to soak them in soapy water instead of ammonia, using the garbage bag method described above. Let them soak for an hour or so, then you will need to use a wide razor scraping tool (about 4" wide razor blade scrapers are available at the hardware store) to remove the film and adhesive.
Concentrate on removing all of the film, then spray the window with more soapy water and use a new blade to remove the left over adhesive. Windex will also work well instead of dish soapy water. Straight ammonia should not be used as there would be so much, it would be hard to breath in the area.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
User submitted tips:
Email: anon@anon.com
Name: Anonymous
Tint Removal Tip: Instead of using ammonia try the all purpose cleaner 409. It smells alot better and will preform the same task.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Peter
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: To remove the excess glue after taking off the film, spray some WD40 then with some fine steel wool give it a good rub then wipe if off with paper towel then clean with proper glass cleaner.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: min soo
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: best way to remove film is spray soapy water on the film, put garbage bag over and let it soak for about 10 min facing the sun, then just peel it off. it works great. side window too.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: £â§ê®
Email: anon@anon.com
Tinting Tip: My friend and I sorta stumbled across this the other day. If you use a can of De-Ice and wipe fairly hard it will remove the glue with great ease. It works wonders on defrost lines.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Anonymous
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: Use a heat gun to heat up an area of the tint (careful not to burn your hand as the gun will reach very high temperatures). This will in essence melt the glue. Start peeling the heated section & repeat this for the entire window. Use GOO-GONE or GOO-AWAY with a cloth/crudrag (not paper towel) to clean window after tint is removed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: jonathan
Email: jonathan@imabadlittleboy.com
Tint Removal Tip: I have also used simply green instead of ammonia. This also smells much better.THE CHEAPER STUFF DOESN'T EVEN COME CLOSE TO WORKING!!(like Mean Green)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Paul Najjar Perth Australia
Email: tinttech@bigpond.com
Tint Removal Tip: The steam method is mostuseful on older dyed polyester or laminated films but is not so effective on newer recently applied metal based tints.(such as when the cops have said to remove the dark film)I find the glue will stay behind making more work. I am more inclined to peel the film ever so slowly without the use of any chemicals or heat and I have found that most of the adhesive will come off with the tint. This works particularly well with one piece rears. You may have to just spot remove some minor remnants of glue with detergent and fine grade steel wool to finish off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Anonymous
Email: anon@anon.com
Tint Removal Tip: TO SPEED UP THIS PROCESS, IN ADDITION TO FACING THE REAR GLASS TOWARDS THE SUN, LEAVE THE CAR RUNNING WITH THE DEFROST ON HEAT AND HIGH AND THE REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER ON. I USUALLY ONLY WAIT 10 MINUTES AND THE FILM COMES OFF WITH THE ADHESIVE. IF THE FILM HAS STARTED TO DELAMINATE ALREADY, WAIT LONGER. DON'T FORGET TO LEAVE THE DOORS UNLOCKED SO YOU DON'T LOCK THE KEYS IN THE CAR!!!!!!!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Dan Georges
Email: dgeorges@***.net
Tint Removal Tip: I have a sugestion to make breathing a whole lot easier. the steps you mentiond are perfect, but instead of using ammonia, try using simple green. dilute a spray bottle 50% water and 50% simple green. spray it on the film, trap it with a plastic bag. 20 min or so in the sun even the ugliest, bubbled tint will come off. then use full simple green on the remaining adhesive left behind and bingo, steel wool (super fine) will melt the rest off. plus it smells much better than ammonia. works for me and i am a 16 year vet. hope it helps.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: Gerardo (Jerry)
Email: kingoftint@hotmail.com
Tint Removal Tip: Make your life alot easier and let the professionals do the job. It might cost you a little but call and ask shops if they can save the defroster lines on your rear window, no one will promise it but if they now what they are doing they will most likely be able to. You will know just by your conversations. Because the customer is unexperienced you will save yourself the headache and lots of time, eitherway it is only going to cost you a little more than if you have to go out and by all the products to remove the film.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: David Finch
Email: phishsampl@aol.com
Tint Removal Tip: I used a steamer to take the tint of my Ferrari, and it came off in a minute. Talk about a car u wanna be careful with. Use a steamer like the professionals. It will save time and effort.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Name: M. Colford
Comments: On removing the tint from the side windows, I would suggest that
instead of using straight ammonia, go to some 5 and dime store,
and find the cheapest glass cleaner you can. This eliminates the
ammonia smell, but there is ammonia in the cleaner. Make sure the
cleaner has ammonia in it though. For the rear window, me and a
friend used the cheap glass cleaner and a heat gun. Peel part of
the tint away in a corner in the top, and shoot some of the cleaner
down in between the tint and glass. Then have someone on the
outside use the heatgun on LOW aimed at the area that you are
peeling at. This loosens the glue, and allows the cleaner in to get
to mroe tint. You will spray a good amount of glass cleaner, but it
is safe on the defrosters, and there is not a strong smell.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TintDude.com
Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 167
From: norfolk, va
I would avoid removing the tint from the rear window because of the defroster. You could probably get away with removing the film, but you run the risk of damaging something that your dealer might not want to replace if they find out the reason was tint removal. Just a thought.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by rays01se
I would avoid removing the tint from the rear window because of the defroster. You could probably get away with removing the film, but you run the risk of damaging something that your dealer might not want to replace if they find out the reason was tint removal. Just a thought.
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 44
You should be able to pull it off without to much of a problem. Set the car outside in the sun, wait a few hours, then SLOWLY pull the film off. You may have to remove a small amount of glue that didn't come off with the film. Spray the glass with a water/soap mix (windex size bottle with a tablespoon of dishwashing soap/shampoo), spray it on, wait a minute or two and using a WHITE scotchgard pad, rub the glue off.
No damage to any defroster or radio lines!
Double layering film makes it harder to see through. Not as clear as one layer.
Or just pay a little xtra and have your tinter do all the work.........
No damage to any defroster or radio lines!
Double layering film makes it harder to see through. Not as clear as one layer.
Or just pay a little xtra and have your tinter do all the work.........
Newbie just Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
Originally Posted by scavynger
Has anyone tried removing tint from the back window. I'm thinking of going a little darker than the 35% i have and am curious how easy/hard it was to remove without damaging the defroster or radio antenna.
Anyone ever try to put tint on top of tint?
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Anyone ever try to put tint on top of tint?
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 140
I would take it back to the tinter and have them do it if I were you. It can't cost that much if anything to have them remove it, especially if you're having them install the new tint. I had mine removed after my first crappy tint job. It was a mobile tinter and they came out to my house. I stood there and watched while they removed it. The first thing they did was spray the inside window with ammonia and then placed black garbage bags both inside and outside of the window. Luckily it was a hot sunny day and they let that bake while they removed the rest of the tinting off the car. I was very nervous that they were going to mess up the defroster and antenna lines. After about 30 minutes they peeled the tinting off my rear window and it all came off clean. No scraping had to be done at all. He didn't even have to clean the window. It looked easy enough, but still it is not something I would want to chance screwing up.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 87
yeah..i'll probably end up getting the tint guy to take it off, if i decide to go lower. I heard the area i live in was strict about tint back when i got it, so i went legal, but having regrets now. My neighbor just got 20% and it looks nice. Makes me want it too. Guess the price on taking it off and re-doing it will determine whether i do it or not.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,269
I bought a kit, they sell products made specifically to take off tint. It was a spraybottle and a plastic scraping thingie....I took it off the sides...and If you wanna go for this be aware there will be a TON of
GLUE!!!!!!!!!!
And on the little, cramped, back window of the max...I couldnt imagine the nightmare it would be...I spent hours and hours on the 4 windows of my old car...the tint comes right off (but you have defrosters to deal with so maybe those will come off with the tint) but then you have to get all the messy glue off with a razorblade. I honestly dont know how you would do it to get it off the defroster...and all the mess with the liquid is sure to damage the leather, headliner, and/or decklid.
I ended up going darker...and being pissed off when I noticed there were STILL some balled up pieces of glue on the glass (now trapped behind the new tint!!)
URRRGH its a nerve-wrecking ordeal, Id just leave it.
GLUE!!!!!!!!!!
And on the little, cramped, back window of the max...I couldnt imagine the nightmare it would be...I spent hours and hours on the 4 windows of my old car...the tint comes right off (but you have defrosters to deal with so maybe those will come off with the tint) but then you have to get all the messy glue off with a razorblade. I honestly dont know how you would do it to get it off the defroster...and all the mess with the liquid is sure to damage the leather, headliner, and/or decklid.
I ended up going darker...and being pissed off when I noticed there were STILL some balled up pieces of glue on the glass (now trapped behind the new tint!!)
URRRGH its a nerve-wrecking ordeal, Id just leave it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shaunkey1
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
4
Aug 18, 2015 10:09 PM