Rear BRAKES already?
08-09-2005, 06:31 PM
#1
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Rear BRAKES already?
I was posting this thread because my 04 sl's rear braked seem to be wearing out. The cars has 24k miles right now and now when I pull off the breaks sound like they are already worn out. I can easily change them myself , but it seems a little premature for rear brakes to go out before the front brakes. When I brought the car a month and a half ago it was fine. Now the brakes are worn that quickly. It don't drive or break hard. The car was allegedely a certified car I just can't imagine the rears going out even if I was to break hard. Just wanted some opinions on what should I don't know if it is covered under warranty because it is a maintenance thing. The breaks aren't grinding at all. Thanks.
08-09-2005, 06:52 PM
#2
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rear brakes are pretty easy to change. Though it seem premature for them to wear fast, but it is not entirely impossible. It is also possible you could have road debri stuck between the rotor, and caliper pads. Try shooting some water direcly at them, possibly take them off and inspect. You might not find anything, but it is possible to dislodge something there before inspection. You should aslo be able to view the thickness of the pads without taking the wheel off. THat is if you know what your looking at.
You are correct, typically fronts wear before rear. That is to assume the fronts were not already reaplaced. Mine have been... just food for though.
Also what are you hearing when you let off the brake?
You are correct, typically fronts wear before rear. That is to assume the fronts were not already reaplaced. Mine have been... just food for though.
Also what are you hearing when you let off the brake?
08-09-2005, 08:33 PM
#3
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Good comments from Maximum. Particularly the part about the front already having been changed earlier.
Another possibility is that oil somehow got on only your rear pads.
Not much else to suggest.
Another possibility is that oil somehow got on only your rear pads.
Not much else to suggest.
08-09-2005, 10:27 PM
#4
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Another possibility -
I noticed you bought the car used six weeks ago. Probably already had around 20K on the clock.
IF the previous owner(s) pulled the dumb stunt of forgetting to release the parking/emergency brake, it wouldn't take many miles to really do a number on the rear brake pads and rotors. The pads may look good, but fried pads can behave abnormally. In this situation, the front braking system would not be affected.
This is not a difficult mistake to make if ones mind is on other things like the radio or stereo or cell phone or the cute young woman in the convertible ahead.
I noticed you bought the car used six weeks ago. Probably already had around 20K on the clock.
IF the previous owner(s) pulled the dumb stunt of forgetting to release the parking/emergency brake, it wouldn't take many miles to really do a number on the rear brake pads and rotors. The pads may look good, but fried pads can behave abnormally. In this situation, the front braking system would not be affected.
This is not a difficult mistake to make if ones mind is on other things like the radio or stereo or cell phone or the cute young woman in the convertible ahead.
08-09-2005, 11:26 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by lightonthehill
Another possibility -
I noticed you bought the car used six weeks ago. Probably already had around 20K on the clock.
IF the previous owner(s) pulled the dumb stunt of forgetting to release the parking/emergency brake, it wouldn't take many miles to really do a number on the rear brake pads and rotors. The pads may look good, but fried pads can behave abnormally. In this situation, the front braking system would not be affected.
This is not a difficult mistake to make if ones mind is on other things like the radio or stereo or cell phone or the cute young woman in the convertible ahead.
I noticed you bought the car used six weeks ago. Probably already had around 20K on the clock.
IF the previous owner(s) pulled the dumb stunt of forgetting to release the parking/emergency brake, it wouldn't take many miles to really do a number on the rear brake pads and rotors. The pads may look good, but fried pads can behave abnormally. In this situation, the front braking system would not be affected.
This is not a difficult mistake to make if ones mind is on other things like the radio or stereo or cell phone or the cute young woman in the convertible ahead.
I was under the impression that the parking/emergency brake only activated a small set of drum brakes that are located near the hub of the rear wheels. You can see the small drum there. If I'm correct, this would only fry those brake shoes. However, the heat from the small drum could also (if left on way too long) heat up the rear disc and that high heat could possibly hurt the rear pads as well.
08-10-2005, 03:15 AM
#6
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Originally Posted by Maxium
rear brakes are pretty easy to change. Though it seem premature for them to wear fast, but it is not entirely impossible. It is also possible you could have road debri stuck between the rotor, and caliper pads. Try shooting some water direcly at them, possibly take them off and inspect. You might not find anything, but it is possible to dislodge something there before inspection. You should aslo be able to view the thickness of the pads without taking the wheel off. THat is if you know what your looking at.
You are correct, typically fronts wear before rear. That is to assume the fronts were not already reaplaced. Mine have been... just food for though.
Also what are you hearing when you let off the brake?
You are correct, typically fronts wear before rear. That is to assume the fronts were not already reaplaced. Mine have been... just food for though.
Also what are you hearing when you let off the brake?
The brakes sound like they are worn down. You can hear them making a almost hissing noise. They however are not grinding yet. I guess I will have to change them this weekend. The noise is loud enough to be heard the entire time I drive. I guess it is good that I really only drive it on the weekends. I did inspect the rotors and they seem to be fine right now.
08-10-2005, 07:09 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by kdejour
The brakes sound like they are worn down. You can hear them making a almost hissing noise. They however are not grinding yet. I guess I will have to change them this weekend. The noise is loud enough to be heard the entire time I drive. I guess it is good that I really only drive it on the weekends. I did inspect the rotors and they seem to be fine right now.
Most brakes have a small metal tab that will run accross the rotor, which creates that hissing noise. That being the case you will need to get new rear pads. If you do them yourself its not expensive at all. New pads can range anywhere from $20, being the elcheapos; to over $100, which are very high performance. Fact is the labor is not extensive, which makes this job super easy to do. If you can change a tire, and move a wrench you can do this project. Do you know how to replace them? If not I'm sure plenty of people here can assist - including myself.
08-10-2005, 09:19 AM
#8
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I know how to change them. I do have a question though. Do the brakes have the star type of piston on the rear breaks? Just want to know so that I can have the correct tools when I change them. I am referring to the piston. The type that you have to turn to push the piston back.
08-10-2005, 10:47 AM
#9
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I'm not entirely sure, but I don't think so. Since it is a single <simple> piston you sould be able to just press it in with a wood clamp, a brake tool compressor tool. If you have a sears nearby you can pick one up fairly cheap. This one is $9.99
08-10-2005, 01:01 PM
#10
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If this is a certified car it should be covered. On my Lexus certified they replaced anything that was more than 50% worn, or so they said, before they would certify it. I would give them a call or carry it back. It can't hurt and you may end up with free breaks. Good luck.
08-10-2005, 01:31 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Maxium
I'm not entirely sure, but I don't think so. Since it is a single <simple> piston you sould be able to just press it in with a wood clamp, a brake tool compressor tool. If you have a sears nearby you can pick one up fairly cheap. This one is $9.99
the rear calipers turn in, like a screw, you turn them in... they do not compress like the front calipers.. they do infact have a tool for that, but it is not the one posted above... you can pic that tool up for cheap at a local outo shop or so..
08-11-2005, 12:33 AM
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Silvermax04 - Thanks for enlightening me on the mini-drums used for the emergency brakes. I had no idea the emergency brake did not involve the rear disks and calipers. Time and technology are passing me by.
08-11-2005, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by lightonthehill
Silvermax04 - Thanks for enlightening me on the mini-drums used for the emergency brakes. I had no idea the emergency brake did not involve the rear disks and calipers. Time and technology are passing me by.
In my youth, before marriage and kids, I owned a '65 Corvette (Only $5,500 new). This was the first Corvette to offer 4-wheel disc brakes, and that was what Chevrolet used for the emergency brake. So things have not changed that much, you just did not know about this trick to get an emergency brake with 4-wheel discs. Turns out that disc brakes don't make a very good "parking brake" when compared to drums.
08-11-2005, 07:26 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by boone
This is one of the little tools you use to wind the rear piston back.
You just fit a ratchet in one of the little holes and wind away.
You just fit a ratchet in one of the little holes and wind away.
Do you know the name of the tool in the pic? Thanks for all the help. It looks easier than my old way of using needle noses and twisting away.
08-26-2005, 07:06 AM
#19
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I have never changed brakes on any car ever, and yesterday i changed the front and back in honestly about 45 minutes. It was super super simple..i just followed the instructions from the service man. You only have to remove 1 bolt per calliper, and the whole thing lifts up and pads pop right out. Easiest thing i have ever done.
08-26-2005, 07:29 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by SilverMax_04
Light, in the past you have always been correct, but I think you are wrong here.
I was under the impression that the parking/emergency brake only activated a small set of drum brakes that are located near the hub of the rear wheels. You can see the small drum there. If I'm correct, this would only fry those brake shoes.
I was under the impression that the parking/emergency brake only activated a small set of drum brakes that are located near the hub of the rear wheels. You can see the small drum there. If I'm correct, this would only fry those brake shoes.
Also it may not be uncommon for rears to start wearing down faster than normal if you do a lot of city driving (Washington DC definitely qualifies) because you probably do 10X more braking than I do OR (NOT SAYING YOU) people who suck at driving (You know the ones that slam on the brakes 1 ft from the stop light or sign) can all lead to early brake pad wear, Last, if your rotors are warped, that may be another indication of the sound, however that would be coupled with increased vibration when braking...
If you do have to change the pads, you may want to consider doing all at the same time because the fronts may not be far behind. Good Luck...
08-26-2005, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by willysmooo
I have never changed brakes on any car ever, and yesterday i changed the front and back in honestly about 45 minutes. It was super super simple..i just followed the instructions from the service man. You only have to remove 1 bolt per calliper, and the whole thing lifts up and pads pop right out. Easiest thing i have ever done.
wow, if you can do it, surely a person of my caliper (get it
) could do the same.
08-26-2005, 04:52 PM
#26
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mine had 44k when i just changed em, and they didnt squeal or anything, but i figured i already had pads sitting on my table for 6 months so why not change em, if they last as long as these did i wouldnt even have the car when they wore. there still was some life left, but not much...so even though yours seems very good, be careful, cause the insides of mine were down low, without a squeal or anything.
08-26-2005, 08:03 PM
#29
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DC driving stop and go can do that to ya.....but I thought I needed new brakes around 14k miles and thought no way... sounded like it was hitting the indicator... took the tire off and turned out their was just some rubbing action going on...gave it a yankl.....easy fix...
09-10-2005, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by NismoMax80
any updates? did you get to check all 4?
My guess is that (used car) the fronts were changed and not the back. With our equal brake distribution, I expect all 4 to wear pretty evenly.
My guess is that (used car) the fronts were changed and not the back. With our equal brake distribution, I expect all 4 to wear pretty evenly.
09-10-2005, 03:57 PM
#33
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i wouldnt even spend $ on that piston tool...a c-clamp works fine..about 5 or 6 twists and it should be done...i replaced my pads with the sam enissan ones..i have never had pads last 44k like the oem ones..my brakes work and stop great. paid like $74.00 for all the pads front and rear
09-10-2005, 08:22 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by willysmooo
i wouldnt even spend $ on that piston tool...a c-clamp works fine..about 5 or 6 twists and it should be done...i replaced my pads with the sam enissan ones..i have never had pads last 44k like the oem ones..my brakes work and stop great. paid like $74.00 for all the pads front and rear
That's what I used to push the piston back. I have used it on all my cars. Good advice thogh. It's not worth it to buy that tool when the c- clamp works just as good.
09-13-2005, 04:51 AM
#35
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When I had my car in for its first oil change recently, the mechanic also "threw in" a no charge brake service (friend of mine) indicating that this is very important on 4 wheel disc brake cars. He has seen rear brakes replaced as early as 12,000 KM, however the average is somewhere around 20,00 KM if no servicing is performed (a lot of non Maxima forum type people do not do the scheduled brake maintenance thinking that it is a money grab since didn't need on older drum brake cars). The fronts were fine, however did see a little bit of wear on the sides of the rear shoes. He basically greased everything and made sure they were still free moving. He indicated the little bit of wear (can see metal was rubbing a bit) continues to reduce the free movement leading to premature pad and rotor wear/replacement. A good pair of channel locks also can move the piston back.
03-18-2006, 12:45 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by willysmooo
i wouldnt even spend $ on that piston tool...a c-clamp works fine..about 5 or 6 twists and it should be done...i replaced my pads with the sam enissan ones..i have never had pads last 44k like the oem ones..my brakes work and stop great. paid like $74.00 for all the pads front and rear
Is it because your car is 6th generation? I think an old maxima does need a special tool to push piston back, or a nose piler.
03-18-2006, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nikai
Is it because your car is 6th generation? I think an old maxima does need a special tool to push piston back, or a nose piler.
I have a sisxth gen as well.
03-21-2006, 05:10 AM
#40
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My car is in right now getting rear pads, I guess they were paper thin, while the fronts are still fine. 53,000mi. and this is the first time Ive changed any pads, i think thats pretty good. I havent really heard any noise or felt anything, but at this mileage i figured its better than risking ruining the rotors, I'll probably let the next owner change the fronts.
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