UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

First off, I have been lurking on this board for quite sometime and have gained so much knowledge for all your posts.

My first car was a 93 maxima back in 96. I had the car for about 4 years, until I burnt out the tranny (poor maintenance).

My next car was a 94 Infiniti Q45 in 2000, I have been in about 3 accidents with this car and decided not to repair it after last year's accident; I spun out on route 80 and was struck by a van and then slammed into the center concrete divide (It was snowing heavily). A friend has the car now and is still driving it around with the damage.

I am now in the market for new 05 SL; I checked out carsdirect.com and came up with a price of $26,576.00 (Drivers preferred was the only option selected).

This price seems pretty good to me, but does anyone think that the price could be discounted even more if I wait for the dealerships to actually have 06s on their lots?

Does anyone have any experience with carsdirect?

I welcome all questions/comments.

PS Great site!!

belal242

Go to Edmunds.com. Im not too sure if you have a carmax near you but they give below invoice prices avg about $200 without neg. Also have what you will pay for taxes and fees on the website too so you will know exactly what your paying for from the get go.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

I did check carmax out, but carsdirect.com price is lower.

Thank you.

RHMax

Carsdirect generally give best prices, about $100 less than everyone else. I'm not sure how quickly they can process transaction though. I have never bought a car from them, only use them as pricing guide for a few cars I bought.

lobewiper

Unless you are planning to keep the car for several (5 or more) years, it may make economic sense to pay a bit more for an 06 and have a one year newer car at trade-in time...You still should be able to get a pretty good deal, I would think.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

I do plan on holding onto this car for awhile and non of the options on the 06 model makes me want to pay the extra dollars.

NashMax

While a 2006 would be a year newer, by the time the 2007s come out, you would have a low mileage 2005 or a high mileage 2006 so the mileage would make up any difference in value. Try this to prove my theory. Try computing the difference in trade in value between a 2004 with 20k miles and a 2005 with 20k right now. This would show you the difference in value as if you had presented your question last year and we were analyzing it in hindsight. I did it for my area on an SL with 20k miles and the difference between a 2004 and a 2005 with the same miles was $50. Buy what is a better deal now b/c it won't matter even 1 year from now...you would be in the same boat either way.

lobewiper

Well, if you run the numbers you suggest, you're absolutely right--I got only $85 more trade-in value for the 05. But consider this example:

Scenario 1: trading in a 2000 Maxima GLE in good condition with 80K on it

versus

Scenario 2: trading in a 2001 Maxima GLE with 65K on it

The 2000 model is worth only $7075, while the 01 is worth 9780, or $2005 more, according to kbb.com.

lobewiper

Sorry, forgot to equate mileage and recalculated the 01's trade-in value based on 80K miles, as used with the 00 Max example. The 01 turns out to be worth only $7985, but this is still 910 dollars more. So, get the 05 if it's at least 910 dollars cheaper than the 06...

MObruin

When I was first buying my max (R.I.P.) I tried going through carsdirect.com

Then I called the dealer to get some price quotes.....

When I told them that the carsdirect.com price was lower, he said to come down to the dealership and he will match or beat their price, which they did!

never underestimate the power of negotiation! If possible, I recommend going to the dealership with cash in hand or loan through another bank for about the price on carsdirect or a lil lower.

Trust me, the sales guy WON'T let you leave without your car!

good luck!

(I miss my max!!!!!)

-MO-

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for your max?

MaxFan

When I bought my Max 14 months ago, I configured the car @carsdirect to match the car the dealer had in stock (via nissan website's inventory check). I then called the dealer and asked to talk to an internet manager. I just gave him the cardirect'c price and BS about another dealer would beat it. The guy said $200 under and I was on my way in under 10 minute to meet with him. When I got there I just went straight to him who tossed me the key without asking for anything besides taking my time with the test drive (all by myself). When I got back, he had all the paper work done and ready for me to fill out the missing information (name..etc.). The #s are already filled in. I also got an approved loan off costco.com with the lowest rate they got (w/ direct deposit). Of course the finance guy matched that (w/ normal monthly payment). I spent about 1hr. at the dealership, 45 minutes of those were to wait for the car to be deliverred. Turned out the car had 2 extra dealer addons (~$400. we never compared our specsheet so he didn't know)

belal242

Ok, well i hope this helps you.

I crunched some numbers for you and carsdirect is stealing $500 from you.
At the least you need to get the car at invoice at this time of the year + $1500 rebate.

I calculated a 2005 Maxima SL with DDP and color splash guards $99 Floor mats $121
$580 destination charge.*you have to put in the splash guards and mats because they are gonna charge you no matter what.

MSRP with the above options $31420

Carsdirect invoice and Edmunds invoice with options $28696
Carsdirect price after rebates 27696. Thats $500 above invoice

You should at the VERY LEAST get the car for $27196 wich is 28696-1500rebate= $27196
If i were you i would offer $28,000 out the door including your taxes and tags. I think you should be able to get that price on a 2005. best of luck to you

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

Thank you but as I stated in my original post, (zip code 11236) I got a carsdirect price of $26,576.00 with the drivers preferred package. Thats about $500 below the $27196 that you got.

mrlee2005

If your not in a hurry wait for the 06' to hit the lots. The rebates will probably increase
If your not in a hurry wait for the 06' to hit the lots. The rebates will probably increase on the 05's. Also the internet/fleet manager is always the best way to go. Less hassle & time wasted because they will work with you over the phone.

James_05SE

Let me guess....Connell NIssan in Costa Mesa?

I pretty much got the same treatment but got $200 below invoice and then the $1250 rebate at the time. Got everything except Nav, chrome wheels, and Elite.

belal242

I got ya wessallenjr sounds like a good deal. But how is NY cheaper than Northern VA?


Ask for $27,450 out the door

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

I thought the same thing when I tried zipcodes from Florida, Maryland and North Carolina. New York came up cheaper than all of them. I will take your suggestion.

kdejour

I would wait and get the 05 when the 06 comes out since the 06 doesn't have anything to make you want to buy it. When they do come out the 05 will be cheaper. If you do this and wait until the end of the month the deals get better. The dealers get desperate at the end of the month and you can really get them down. Hope this helps. They are already running the end of the model year clearance.

belal242

Just go get your car now you have a much better selection i think the offer you are going to give them is very strong. By the way how much is the sales tax on cars in NY?because your potentail savings is about 800 under invoice so go for it now.

thephildo

my brother in law had a pretty good idea, he emailed about 10 different dealerships and told them what car he wanted with what options. he asked for their lowest price they could do. he made sure they all realised he was emailing a bunch of them. then he took the lowest couple and went to his local dealership, and they matched the price.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

The sales tax in NY is 8.375%

dproth

what do you think of this? I got them down 25,320.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

It sounds pretty good to me, carsdirect.com gave me a price of $25,120 with your options.

-AoW-JP

I paid 36 with tax. I got everything but the rear console and rear shade. I think I overpaid but then again my company pays 100% so I really don't care.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

Well I just came from Nemet Nissan in Queens where I put $500 down on a SL with DPP. We agreed on a price of $26500...Now all they have to do is locate one. If all goes well then I will driving home in my Maxima on Monday or Tuesday,.

RHMax

$26.5 is a really good price. Did they give you a definite time? What would they do if can't find what you choose?

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

I did a cars direct price and it gives $26,796 on an 05 SL with the DPP. I am also in the market for one, dont know if it will be buying it or leasing it. So clueless. BTW, I hate that Nemet nissan dealer, its horrible and I have had nothing but horrible experiences there.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

They are supposed to give me a call on Friday...The company that I work for has a discount program for employees who want to buy cars and that helped with the price.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

Were your experiences with sales or service?

Maximized Jiggs

iTrader: (1)

Sales. They lied to us about a car they had for a good price over the phone, we argued and wasted time over nothing. Also another of their salespeople took my friends deposit and ran off with it. He must have quit and not notified the dealer manager or some thing. I would say avoid nemet, I only go there to check out the cars.

gec

Listen be a jerk..... I speak from years of experience buying these cars... I've bought a new max every 2 yrs and not a leaser...98--00--02--04 ---- each one I paid way below invoice... just as an example I just bought my wife the 05 altima 2.5s brandy new with 13 miles for 16,430... granted I had to go to drive to a dealer that was 45 miles away.. but the fact remains I still got about 2yrs equity in the car.... when it comes to buying cars don't cave and don't be a sucker... get a number in mind and stick with it....check this

Lets say your buying a car and the invoice is 25k. You look up value and its worth just that 25k. So you figure let me get these guys down a little and you offer them 23.5k. Your a sucker to begin with...by the time you pay tax a reg fees your already in the hole. You understand this so you offer them 22.5 and figure hey by the time i pay my tax reg and insurance I'll be even.... Still a sucker.... Cars only depreciate and by the time you make your first 3 payments you'll be a g-note under book...

Instead go in confident as all hell and say I want this car I'll give you 18k. The salesman will say...oh we can't do that... or let me go talk with the manager and see what we can do...he'll come back with --- my manager is in a good mood today we will be able to let the car go for 22 (HE MEETS YOU HALF WAY)

thats great but I want to pay 18k --- reach in your pocket and here is 2k down.... tell him he needs to do better...he'll ask how much better or tell you thats the best he could do.... say ok thank you...and put the money back in your pocket ---- he'll say well let me talk to him again you seem serious maybe he can shave a little more off...

the you'll wait wait wait...this is a game --- don't stay at his desk...rome around go outside and most importantly sem real relaxed.... he gets you...ok bottom line because of blah blah blah (end of month...special sale...holiday...or some other BS) we can get you i this car for 20.7k.

Again thats great but I want to pay 18k

2 things are going to happen (1) they go lower or (2) they let you go.... Even though 20.7k is a great deal for you --- leave your # and WALK OUT... you can always come back tomorrow and pay the same price so don't let your emotions get in the way.... chances are they'll chop it down some more... the point where they let you leave and don't chase you into t he parking lot or call you within a day --- you know you hit close to their bottom on that car and oh one more thing

ANY DEALER WHO TELLS YOU THERE IS NO OR VERY LITTLE MARKUP ON NEW CARS IS LYING LYING LYING LYING.....

joemax1

great info. Thanks!!!

gec

Your most welcome sir

belal242

was the 26.5 including tax and title?

MObruin

26.5 is pretty good.

I just got an 05 SL with DPP, mats, splash guards, and power sunroof for 26.

I think its been mentioned before, but this is the best advice I know:

1) Go to a smaller dealer vs. a large one - the large ones will get sales regardless, the smaller ones are slower and will want/need your business more. Plus, on a slow day when all the sales guys are just sitting around doing nothing, being the only customer there gets your a$$ kissed by everyone! We did everything short of having them get us lunch!

2) Go at the end of the month - dealers need to satisfy quotas

3) As mentioned above, having 2k for a down payment is a great way to bait the salesguy to not let you go....Whats better?? Having 26,000 dollars in hand! Trust me, you will NOT be leaving without your car! I've done it twice now! Go to a credit union and get the best possible deal with financing (never wait til you're at the dealer) then take your pre-approval there and put it on the table and say you will not be paying a cent more.

I'm not an expert, but these are things that work for me. The best advice is to be patient and make the decision on your terms, not theirs. Get the exact car you want.

Don't get me wrong, its not like I walked into the first Nissan Dealer and got what I wanted. In fact there were two large volume dealers that did in fact let me leave with cash in hand! And as soon as we left, they went right to work on the next customer in line. To them, you were a waste of time and as soon as they let you go, they can sell a car to the next guy. As soon as I went to a smaller dealer, they were more willing to work with me.

GOOD LUCK!

-MO-

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for the advice, I only wished that I had gotten it before putting something down...I would have been able to save few hundred.

C17chief

I've done this with my last 3 cars also. There is A LOT of power in being able to buy outright if you stick to your number and dont fold. You go through the usual motions all while not bending from your original number. They always come back with the lowest we can go price after a few trips to the office that is still qiute a bit above. Fill out a check for what you want to pay and tell them you'll hand it over and take the car, or you can rip it up and take your business elsewhere. They usually fold pretty quick after that, even if their lowest offer is a few k higher. 1 out of the 3 I did have to tear up the check cause they wouldnt take it, wouldnt sell it that low, but I did get my price elsewhere. I guess sometimes it just comes down to them not wanting to sell too low if it's something they can get away with selling to someone else for more relatively easily. This is also where the end of the month comes in at a quieter dealer, especially when weather has been bad like blazing hot middle of summer or frigid middle of winter, with a lot of storminess, when people just arent out car shopping. You're less likely to run into them not taking a low offer in favor of selling the car to someone willing to pay more. They are a little more concerned with selling a car period at that point.

MIKEDINERO2000

I purchased my MAXIMA from carsdirect.com in FEB. 05. I think that I got a great deal because I got mines for $27,900.

MObruin

^^^ That is a good price depending on what options you got, but you can't negotiate a better price with carsdirect. If you want a good hassel-free price on a car go with them.

But if you want to save hundreds, maybe even a thousand or so, I say go in there with cash in hand. It could be a fair amount of work, but with the money you save, its well worth it.

-MO-