Wakkus_Maximus

Hey guys, just came back from a friend's shop, and wanted to comment on a problem that we could have on our Max. He suggested me to replace the power cabling that goes from the alternator to the battery, because we needed a cable with a higher gauge. He has seen 3 maximas already having short circuits after frying this cable, also damaging the battery and the alternator. It only happens with cars with sound systems additional to the stock one.

Looks like the battery can supply the charge, but when the alternator tries to recharge the battery it sends more current trough this wire. I checked and we're talking about a #10 or #12 cable, that I had replaced with a #8 one. Just a heads up to get rid of possible future problems.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

so you mean we need a LOWER guage right?

maxmale

how hard is it to replace this cable. i need to do this upgrade anyways.

Teniferman

Actually, it would be a LARGER gauge, smaller number numerically. From smaller to larger - #18 or 16 for things like remote turn ons and alarm wires, #16 to #10 for speaker wires, #8 to 00 (double aught) for alternator, battery, amplifier and capacitor wires.

viguera

iTrader: (1)

From what I've seen the OEM wiring from the battery to the alternator is 8 gauge already, no? It's not the easiest thing to trace, but I don't think they'd be using 18/16 gauge for that, would they? Then again, if it'll save them even 3 cents per car they probably would...

As far as how hard it is, I think it's a *****... I started messing with the OEM wiring from the + terminal in the battery and gave up. That block, the fuse and all that wiring just scared me... I think most people that have messed with it just run a 4-gauge or better patch from the terminal to the OEM wiring harness. I know that's what I did when I put in my Stingers. It's probably a worthwhile upgrade though...

Wakkus_Maximus

It's not that difficult. The wire comes from the + terminal, passes somewhere in front of the radiator, and connects to the alternator at the other side of the motor. The cable is #10, so I just connected a #8 in parallel. You could also connect another #10 in parallel, and that would reduce the current on each cable by half. I really can't show you any pics because I didn't do it, but the guy installed probably 5 feet of #8 cable, and did it in 45 minutes. I'll take pics of the finished project later.

Oh and so you know, #4 is good, but a pain in the a$$ to splice, cut, or put terminals on. Unless you are running a 1,000 WATT system, it's not necessary...