DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I am considering removing the engone and tranny in order to install headers. Is there an easy way to pull motor/tranny even if its just raising it several inches to give clearance for header installation?

glenmoormax

iTrader: (13)

I have helped with 3 so far, and from what I know, if you are lifting it to get access to install the headers etc, you still will have to do everything invloved in a standard engine pull. There is no "easy" way, its just a matter of getting in there and doing it.

lowpro19s

worst case senario..probably the same jags who know how to steal hids off 5th gens in jersey area.. should have their fingers cut off one by one with a dull cigar cutter!!

lobewiper

Hey man, you might be interested in the new job openings at Abu Graib...

04BlackMaxx

You must have ***** of steel to pull the motor on a relatively new car with no problems...first time too im assuming? You'd need an engine lift and unplugging alot of wires and taking it off the mounts...the very thought of doing it without any experience kind of makes me queezy.

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

you crazy Deus, I wouldn't pull my engine unless I'm installing pistons, cams, crank shaft, new heads or a completely done engine, something worth the trouble and labor.

if headers can be done as is, I would do it just like that.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I have pulled MANY MANY motors of other cars. I have much better than average mechanical skills and much better than average tools, including air tools. I used to have an auto repair business many moons ago (late 80's). I have no fear in removing this motor/tranny combo. I just want some guidance. Pulling a motor/tranny combo isnt that hard since it comes out as a unit. I just wanna know what procedure is.

Here is how I look at it. If the header job with motor installed is an 11 hour job with lift, it is every bit of a 2 day job without one. If I can pull the motor in 5 hours or less, I can get those beyotch headers on in an hour, with much greater ease, than with motor in car. Then, return motor to its cradle in a few hours, no? Anyone done a VQ before can help?

RHMax

It just seems like an overkill, pull the motor for headers.

jsmithsole

iTrader: (5)

This thread is the exact reason why I'm going to probably skip on headers and just finish the rest of my exhaust...too complicated!!

(by the way Tek nice new sig)

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

The thing is it may not be that complicated. If you can get the motor just a few inches away from the firewall, that can make a HUGE difference. From the face of it, it may seem like overkill, but consider that an engine is basically held in by a couple of motor mounts. I have had the rear one off to install the sway bar, and thats not hard to remove. So . .. .. I propose that the front one isnt that hard, but Im not sure. How hard is it to remove the CV axles? After that, its out. More thoughts??

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

I don't see how this motor will come out without taking the radiator supports out, hood ect ect.

good luck to you Deus..

and thanx Jay, I was bored as hell..

eK9aT10pSi

iTrader: (1)

i did a swap in an 02 se and it didnt take too long swapping the motor out. 1st, we disconnected everything that was attached to the motor, supported the motor on a engine hoise, put the car high up on jack stands, then dropped it down to the ground. we took the hood off but nothing in the front of the motor had to come out.

glenmoormax

iTrader: (13)

it will start out like that until you pretty much take everything off. I suppose if you had some one help you push the motor from the bottom pushing towards the front (after unbolting the front and rear mount) you could get it away fromt he firewall, but it won't be inches... the front bank wouldn't be to hard if you removed the radiator?!

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I heard that the motor can be dropped as you indicate, like the old VW Bug motors; raise the car way up, and drop it to the ground. This is how I did my Vanagon motor swap (I installed a Subaru motor in it!). I assume you support the motor and drop the subframe with motor and tranny attached??

xoomer.com

iTrader: (19)

I give mad credit to DEUS. I wish I had that kind of knowledge or tools to even think about the job. Deus you seem confident about the job and I think you can do it. I will speak to my friend as he has some program that shows you how to do things around cars to see if I can get some sort of manual on takin the engine out.

koyoki

If i am not wrong. i doubt you can pull the whole tranny/ motor OUT from the TOP . I know for sure all Nissan, honda, toyota the motor and tranny can be drop . If you want to go up you have to unbolt the tranny from the motor in order for the motor to go up. Good luck this should be interesting.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

May want to add a cam and port the intake if I may suggest. Here goes, manual EM-116:

REMOVAL
1. Drain coolant. Refer to MA-14, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .
2. Remove the front cowl grille. Refer to EI-19, "Removal and Installation" .
3. Remove the windshield wiper assembly. Refer to WW-27, "Removal and Installation of Wiper Motor and Linkage" .
4. Disconnect engine room harness from the engine side and position it aside. Disconnect engine harness
ground connections. Access the connector through the glove box opening. Refer to IP-10, "INSTRUMENT PANEL ASSEMBLY" .
5. Remove the hood. Refer to BL-13, "Removal and Installation of Hood Assembly" .
6. Remove the battery and battery tray. Refer to SC-9, "Removal and Installation" .
7. Remove the engine cover using power tool. Remove side engine covers.
8. Disconnect the mass air flow sensor electrical connector.
9. Remove the fresh air intake tube and air cleaner to electric throttle control actuator tube attached to air cleaner lid. Refer to EM-15, "Removal and Installation" .
10. Disconnect two connectors below mass air flow sensor attached to the shock tower.
11. Release fuel pressure. Refer to EC-93, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" .
12. Disconnect fuel hose quick connection at vehicle piping side. Refer to EM-39, "Removal and Installation" .
13. Remove and position aside the IPDM E/R and bracket and position aside. Refer to PG-26, "Removal and Installation of IPDM E/R" .
14. Remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir, and system hoses. Refer to CO-12, "REMOVAL" .
15. Disconnect the power brake booster vacuum hose from the back of the intake manifold collector.
16. Disconnect heater hoses at the cowl.
17. Disconnect the two fusible link connectors at the battery positive terminal.
18. Disconnect the harness retainers and position the engine harness aside.
19. Remove the ground cable.
20. Remove the clutch operating cylinder with lines attached and position aside. Refer to CL-11, "Removal
and Installation" .
21. Drain engine oil. Refer to MA-16, "Changing Engine Oil" .
22. Drain A/T oil. Refer to MA-21, "Changing A/T Fluid" .
23. Drain M/T oil. Refer to MA-20, "Changing M/T Oil" .
24. Disconnect the transaxle shift controls. Refer to AT-231, "SHIFT CONTROL SYSTEM" (5 A/T).
25. Remove RH splash shield.
26. Remove the front wheel and tires.
27. Remove the drive belts. Refer to EM-14, "Removal and Installation" .
28. Remove the front exhaust tube and hanger using power tools. Refer to EX-3, "Removal and Installation" .
29. Remove engine oil cooler pipe bolts.
30. Remove the idler pulley and idler bracket.
31. Remove the engine undercover.
32. Remove the A/C compressor using power tools. Discharge and recover the R134a refrigerant. Refer to ATC-119, "HFC-134a (R-134a) Service Procedure" .
33. Remove the front drive shafts. Refer to FAX-11, "Removal and Installation" .
34. Remove the front suspension member. Refer to FSU-15, "Removal and Installation" .
CAUTION:
Make sure to disconnect electrically controlled engine mounting insulator harness clips and
power steering line mounts from the front suspension member prior to removal.
35. Disconnect the power steering pressure switch.
36. Remove the power steering pump, without disconnecting the piping, from the engine and position and secure it aside. Refer to PS-24, "REMOVAL" .
37. Install engine slingers into front of left bank cylinder head and
rear of right bank cylinder head.
38. Secure a hoist to the engine slingers.
39. Remove the LH transaxle mount through bolt.
40. Remove the RH engine mounting insulator nuts and bolt.
41. Carefully lower the engine and transaxle assembly with the hoist avoiding interference with the vehicle body.
CAUTION:

Before and during this procedure, always check if any harnesses are left connected.

Avoid any damage to, or any oil/grease smearing or spills onto the engine mounting insulators.
42. Remove the crankshaft position sensor (POS).
43. Remove the starter motor. Refer to SC-17, "M/T Models" , SC-18, "5-Speed A/T Models" .
44. Disconnect the transmission electrical connectors, harness retainers and position harness aside.
45. Separate the engine and transaxle and mount the engine on a suitable engine stand.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Now thast what Im talking about!!! Ok lets analyze the engine removal with respect to difficulty. Steps 1-31 are very straightforward. Step 32 is getting tricky. What I would prolly do is remove AC com[ressor and set it aside without discharging it, which makes it easier to put back together. Step 33 removing drive shafts can be a bzitch. Circlips tend to get bent and suspension sometimes needs to be taken apart. Not sure here. The rest is straightforward until Step 41. The rest of the steps after 41 do NOT need to be done.

Think about how easy it would be to buzz of the manifolds and buzz on the headers now!!! No weird access angles to the bolts and worrying about the EGR pipe. Its all right there.

The reverse is even easier cuz u just bolt it back together and plug the shzit back. I bet this could be done in less time and would be much easier. Having to screw around with the firewall and no room sounds way worse than this. Any more input or opinions? How about feedback from the guys who have installed headers???

turbomirage

As a tech I will say that there are a lot of steps you could eliminate from that list and get the headers installed just fine. Removing the belts for one is silly. The engine and tranny simply drop down on the subframe. I think if you mearly manage to get the subframe down just 6 to 12 inches you should be able to get access to the rear manifold easily but this will require a lift. At the shop we have a chassis holder specifically designed to hold it with little headaches but I have also dropped them out on 4 jack stands with minor issues.

I don't remove the A/C compressor or any of the engine accessories. I just evac the a/c and move the lines to the side. Leave both the engine and tranny harnesses attached. Remove the engine harness from the ecu (there are a couple other plugs also) and throw it on top of the engine. Most of the tranny ones are on the drivers strut tower. As for the steering shaft, I center the steering wheel and remove the 14mm nut from under the dash. If the wheel is straight the nut should be facing down and the bolt slides out. The shaft is keyed to one position only so you will have to try to mess this up. There is also a 10mm clamp holding the boot on at that will just need to be lossened up. You don't need to remove the radiator, just the hoses. Don't forget the P/S line that is at the front/right of the sub-frame. Its kind-of hidden and is usually the thing eveyone seems to forget about till they begin raising the car off the sub-frame.

Just a few tips from my experience.
Good luck.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Radiator is good for more room but is not necessary, among other of yuor good suggestions.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

Front drive shaft REMOVAL
1. Remove the wheel and tire. Refer to WT-4, "Removal" .
2. Remove the cotter pin, and the wheel bearing lock nut using power tool.
CAUTION:

Do not twist or stretch the brake hose when removing components.

Discard the cotter pin and use a new cotter pin for installation.
NOTE: The brake caliper does not need to be disconnected.
3. Remove the underbody splash shield.
4. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut using power tool.
5. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle using Tool as shown.
CAUTION: Discard the cotter pin and use a new cotter pin for installation.
6. Disconnect the connecting rod from the front strut. Refer to FSU-11, "Removal and Installation" . (this is the end-link)
7. Separate drive shafts from the knuckles by lightly tapping the end with a hammer and a wood block. If it is hard to separate,
use a suitable puller.
CAUTION: Cover boots with shop towel so as not to damage them
when removing drive shaft.
8. Remove the center support bearing bolts using power tool, and
pry the right side drive shaft out of the transaxle.
9. Disconnect the left side drive shaft from the transaxle.
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage pinion mate shaft and side gear.

For A/T models – Insert screwdriver into transaxle opening for right drive shaft and strike with a hammer.

For M/T models – Pry off the drive shaft from the transaxle as shown.
10. Remove the circular clip from the transaxle side of the drive shaft and discard.
CAUTION: Always use a new circular clip for installation.

JiuJitsuThug

iTrader: (1)

Just reading about and envisoning all those steps gave me a headache - yikes.

Good luck to you Dues - as stated earlier if you are going to that extent throw in a whole bunch of stuff

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Like I said, I don't think its that much work compared to the struggle of putting the headers on with no space.

kamski

iTrader: (9)

I see your a loony bin and I know where you are going with this.....

SO I PLACE DIBS ON YOUR Y-PIPE

Kamski

eK9aT10pSi

iTrader: (1)

correct, when we pulled out the motor, we supported/suspended it while we dropped the subframe. when out of the way, dropped the motor to a creeper to roll it out.

eK9aT10pSi

iTrader: (1)

^^^ i agree, it wasnt too bad of a swap to do. a little bit more involved than honda swaps, lol.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

How many hours to drop it to where the exhaust manifolds can be buzzed off easily?

TAZ

iTrader: (20)

I'll have to second the idea of installing cams, if your pulling the motor make it a little more worth while, since cams are another mods that's near impossible with the motor in place. Nissan motors are generally pretty stright forward. I've pulled 4 motors out of 4 cyl altimas and I've been under Kam's car a couple times, they "seem" very similar. I'd just take all your normal steps:

-drain fluids
-maybe remove hood but not necc.
-label all non obvious wired conections and unplug
-pull rad
-separate y pipes/ exhaust
- pull axles
-separate mounts ( buy racingline inserts ahead of time for reinstallation )
-start lifting

madmik

iTrader: (1)

I saw one VQ on the ground sitting on the subframe at the dealer. I think the rad was out. The car was way up on the lift with the hood still on.

According to parts book: remove & install engine trans assembly 12.3H. Other items just for fun: exhaust manifold replacement 2.8H, subframe 3.8H, timing chain cover 10.2H, front drive axle 0.3H.

The experience: priceless.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Well even if it is 12.3 hours, I think its easier than the header install with engine in place. If I do things like cam install, then it really becomes worth it. Where is the cheapest place to get cams?

madmik

iTrader: (1)

This guy has positive reviews on other forums: delubozparts $699.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-P...8990QQtcZphoto

Seems 2005+ have exhaust valve control. Not sure of the performance impact if wrong cam is used. JWT has the 2005+ cams and the timing charts.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

Did you buy his set?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=494354

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Im tempted to get cams while I have engine out, if thats the route I go. Im just curious what problems there are with teh cam install, like throwing codes, idle problems, gas mileage problems, etc? ANyone know?

Maxxed2DMaxx

Not to disagree with the wisdom and fine suggestions posted in this thread but from my POV the FSM is written for removal with a car lift. For those of us using a cherry picker (hoist) it looks like the VQ35 can be pulled straight upward w/o problem....any thoughts?...I'm wondering why this thread ended w/o completion? I want to take pics and post for future considerations... TBC

jsmithsole

iTrader: (5)

Did you realize that this thread is over 4 years old, reopening was probably unnecessary.
And it ended because he installed them without removing the engine...4 years ago! lol

Maxxed2DMaxx

As a moderator, I’m surprised that you would not be interested in this content and its relevance to current members/users. I did not find any thread detailing the removal of the VQ35 in any of the A34 threads in this forum and since I’m in the process of doing so, I found it quite necessary to reach out to those who might have the experience and a desire to share the wisdom and experience gained in spite of the elapsed time.
My questioning as to why the thread ended w/o final results alludes to it.
However, would it not be beneficial to have the complete story, perhaps even from a new perspective (other than the FSM) posted?
Has the complete removal process been covered elsewhere? Are you discouraging the continuation of the thread and if so can you offer a better suggestion?
Thanks for checking in on my posts. I await your response

KCMAXX

iTrader: (22)

As a moderator, I’m surprised that you would not be interested in this content and its relevance to current members/users. I did not find any thread detailing the removal of the VQ35 in any of the A34 threads in this forum and since I’m in the process of doing so, I found it quite necessary to reach out to those who might have the experience and a desire to share the wisdom and experience gained in spite of the elapsed time.
My questioning as to why the thread ended w/o final results alludes to it.
However, would it not be beneficial to have the complete story, perhaps even from a new perspective (other than the FSM) posted?
Has the complete removal process been covered elsewhere? Are you discouraging the continuation of the thread and if so can you offer a better suggestion?
Thanks for checking in on my posts. I await your response