Torgus

iTrader: (10)

thx for correcting me on the red tops CCAs at 32 Danny. now is CCA for all batteries done at 0F or at 32F? because it wouldn't really be CCAs if it's at 32 right? fwiw most redtops do between 700-800 at 0 depending on the model. Makes me wonder if my diehard from walmart has the 850 CCAs at 0F or 32F...i would assume 0F but you never know...

i want a PHOTON RAY GUN!?!?!? linkz?

the more i read about optimas it makes me feel good about buying cheapos at walmart. apparently alot of the guys on the 4x4 forums are having big problems with them since they moved production over to china. they all say the old ones were great but the new ones are hit or miss or even worse.

just food for thought guys.

fkpope

Just had to replace the OEM battery in my 2011 Maxima. Bought the car in Dec 2010, so only 11 months old. Investigation into the issue was as follows:

1. Three days ago car was dead in the morning. Perfectly fine before that with no indication of any battery issue (i.e. slow starting, dim lights, etc.)

2. Bought a charger and hooked it up.. battery was at 5%. Charged for 2 hours up to 100%, afterward car started normally. Parked it that night after running a few errands.

3. Second morning, dead. So... charged it up with the external charger again. Once fully charged, I disconnected my aftermarket stereo system fully (not a large system... very small, single small amp addition with single 10" sub), and ensured that everything was OFF that night I parked the car (even removed my cell phone cigarette lighter charger from the always-on power plug in the center console).

4. Third morning, dead. Took the battery out and went to Sears Automotive, where they hooked it up to a battery tester, which puts a 30 second charge and then load on the battery. The tester reported "Bad Battery" once complete. So, I bought a new 640 CCA Die Hard Gold battery and that is in the car now.

Something interesting to note... during my meter testing, I at one point used the current option of the meter to see what the car, when completely turned off, is drawing from the battery. My car consistently reported ~118 milliamps once it settles out (i.e. when you first put the meter in line, it may report ~500ma to 1 amp draw as electronics in the car are probably charging up capacitors, etc., but it should settle down to the true power draw after about 10-15 seconds.)

I state this because 118 ma seems higher than I thought it would draw when parked and off completely, but this may be normal? It would be great to get a current draw reading from someone elses 2009-2011 maxima just for comparison/info purposes.

Anyhow, 11 month old car and the OEM battery failed... that's not very good. Hopefully just a defective battery and not an indication that Nissan is putting the cheapest crap battery they can buy into their new cars.

T_Behr904

So your first post and you have to bump a 3 year old thread?

BadBlackMaxSL

iTrader: (1)

And in the wrong Gen section.......

moNYtx

My batt died a few days ago as well. Was out getting the oil changed and stop in autozone to pick up the headlight restorer. Came out of the shop it wouldn't turn got the guy to come look at and the battery was done. It worked fine the day before. I live in houston the coldest I think its gotten so far this winter is probably 50 or 60.

PetitFrereMaxima

iTrader: (2)

Wow. 3 years old thread. Well, since it was 11 months, you could still have gone to Nissan to get a free replacement. Though, the Nissan batteries do not last long. Mine went out at 13 months of ownership, so I did not qualify for the full replacement. I paid half price and got a new Nissan battery that still died after 13 months again. Then I bought the most expensive from autozone and I have been good ever since.

timpol

iTrader: (1)

118 mA seems very low to me. I would suspect the number to be higher, say 300 to 500 mA at rest given all of the electronics on board.