RHMax

R/T - .746
60' - 2.282
330 - 6.253
1/8 - 9.549
MPH - 72.56
1000 - .000(n/a)
1/4 - 14.796
MPH - 94.39

Sunny 75 degrees, head wind constant 30+ mph. How much quicker you guys think without the wind?

mods: K&N panel, TS ECU, new piping w/ Magnaflow resonator, stock mufflers, Good'ole RS-A.

MisterSparkle

iTrader: (3)

well seeing that our cars are fat as hell lolxz...i would think maybe at least...0.5 sec difference...

Glude

iTrader: (5)

I doubt that, winds not going to effect a run that much. 14.7 is an average time for these cars.

UnMaTcHeD

iTrader: (2)

I would have expected a little more with the ecu upgrade.

Glude

iTrader: (5)

possibly, im not to sure about the ecu upgrade yet. I just dont like the idea of a set tune for every car, doesnt seem like it would be very effective.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

I'd assume that you'd be running low(ish) 14's with ecu and exhaust...maybe you were spinning a lot with them crappy RSA's?

Ankit69

iTrader: (1)

just curious... whats the avg. 1/4th of a mile on a g35?

RHMax

The temp went up 15 degreed from 9AM to 11AM when I ran. I knew the track was getting slippery when the AWD cars were spinning all 4's. I took my time(see my R/T) with about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle and spun all the way to 2nd gear in manumatic. The tires are about 50% gone, mrerry Christmas to me!

The only car that I could tell was comparable and completely stock was a Hemi Charger, it ran a 14.9 @ 91. But those cars don't slip through the wind as well as ours.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

damn, that's a crappy time for that charger!

I ran against one and below 80 or so they pull on us...above 80 is where they shut down which is why the trap was so low, but still 14.9 isn't that fast

On the other hand, you ran a very good time I know what you mean about spinning..it's so hard to get traction in a FWD car from a stop...

RHMax

Thanks, I'll just have to wait until they open up again in Jan; and when I have all damn day to wait for a run. Launch with a FWD auto definitely takes patience and practic, I thought I got it down pretty good on the street.

maxmale

never ran a 1/4 mile track but i know my best was a 9.2 on the 1/8 with like a 2.3-2.5 60 ft, i cant hook up for **** but i also had weight reduction done. seats, spare, carpet, audio, all removed.

Apollos2

iTrader: (16)

Your mods also only show a K&N filter.......why no CAI? Also have you dynoed yet?

RHMax

I ran full trim, maybe 3700 lbs; me, 1/4 tank of gas, jack, spare, sub, etc. Dynoed with K&N and repiped exhaust at 212WHP, not with ECU and y-pipe.

AllBlackMax

Oh no, get rid of the jack, spare, sub at least. You WILL notice a difference.

Apollos2

iTrader: (16)

I dynoed at 211whp with just the Nismo CAI. I wonder does that mean CAI=Repiped exhaust?

You should redyno with your new stuff and on removing the obvious heavy items. But personally I think I would like to run it like I have it equipped for daily driving. That's why I am thinking of ditching the sub box and finding a lighter weight alternative to add some bass.

RHMax

There's definitely more power after the flash. I'm no expert, but there were other factors involved with my time.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

What RPM were you shifting at?

RHMax

6500 RPM, auto shift in manumatic mode. I'm don't know where is my peak now since TS ECU, but it "should" be higher than stock.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Guranteed it's not higher than 6500 (peak whp)

RHMax

I bet you're right. Most likely around 6k, I'll know when dyno again.

SEBOY

iTrader: (1)

i did 14.8 1/4 mile only have intake

RHMax

So what was your time for 60' and 1/8 mile and speed?

madmik

iTrader: (1)

With Nismo CAI and a few cheap mods, I hit 2?1whp@6500rpm. The new y-pipe added more torque everywhere, and the TS ECU gives it an extra kick.
I am pretty sure the peak is still around @6500. I do fell the power drop at 6800. With all yours mods, your peak rpm should be the similar or better.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

get some cams/headers for that power on the top

RHMax

I pulled 22 more MPH from 1/8 mile. The car pulled pretty hard even with some headwind. Traction was more of a problem with that run. I just couldn't wait another 2 hours for my group to get another turn, there were 400 cars there. I guess I will dyno again after the holidays.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Do you have a runfile to go with this claim?...And a graph.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

Done on a Mustang dyno at www.currysauto.com.

www.cardomain.com/ride/2248073

The curve I would like is the one from CE for their y-pipe ad:

http://www.customenterprise.com/view.../vts/design017

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Any plans to dyno on a dynojet?

koyoki

the coupes about low 14's and the sedan 06 below is about 14.5's and the 07 & newer one should be around the 14's

RHMax

Your A/F is wayy off, what mods did you have with that? And on Dynojet.


Here is my dyno with stock A/F before ECU and y-pipe. The tech guy basically did 3 pulls with no cooling down. 212.9 and 224.3

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

There was a member here that had a peak of ~260 @ 6500 on a Mustang Dyno. The Mustang dyno was set up poorly, and when that same member got on a DJ, the numbers were quite a bit lower, with a lower peak ( 22x@5600-5800) and then dropped off from there.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

Nice numbers. On the Mustang dyno I had CAI, Amsoil, grounding kit, 350z thermostat.

I got a few pulls this morning on a Dynojet ... at Extreme Ms., MD and my A/F was off the chart at 18... 199WHP in 2nd. I decide not to go further with that. Too dangerous since the ECU does not read O2 signals at WOT and does not compensate A/F.

Many posts talked about bad MAF's, so I took it out, studied it and began drilling holes in it to increase air flow. If its bad, might as well experiment. I doubled the size of the hole above the hot wire. Air flow got a bit better. Grabbed my Dremel and did a few pin holes in the back. When you look at the opening where the IAT sensor is, you now see the holes in the back, horizontally in line with the A/F hot wire in the back. Now the MAF air flow is closer to the upper range of the specs and my Long Term trims are near zero. I have to review a lot of datalogs to see how the other sensors are reacting. I may do a few more pulls soon.

BTW, If you forget to reconnect the MAF you will know. The engine has little power and shifting in drive or reverse is very harsh and noisy, like having loose motor mounts. Don't ask.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

What temp does your car operate(hover) at according to the Autoenginuity?


Yes it does. It compensates with respect to ther MAF sensor and CPS. MAF = air volume entering engine, CPS = RPM reading

Adding more diameter to the entire MAF housing will lean the mixture.

RHMax

Yup, the ECU only calculates what the sensor reads. By adding more holes, you're adding extra air volume bypassing the MAF sensor. This could be the reason you're running too lean and throwing CEL.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

The engine temp while driving 30mph+ is around 181-183. If I stop, it climbs to 198 because the fans will only kick in at 203F. This defeats the reason I got a colder thermostat. I am planning some rewiring to get those fans to start sooner.

I did not touch the MAF housing. I modified the sensor inside the housing.

Here you can see picture of the MAF sensor(front).


Top of sensor:


The air enters at the front, passes over the sensors, turns left inside, comes back forward and is then sucked out from the top and bottom of the sensor. Like I said, I drilled 3 pin holes behind the hot wire to force some of the air throught the back, avoiding this "chicane".

It did speed up the air over the sensor. Autoenginuity is showing that my MAF reading is almost 30% higher and the Long term trims are staying at zero. I am pretty stoic 1K-3K and a tad rich 4K-6K. Happy so far. I have to do some data logging to check A/F at WOT.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

What are the outside temps when you see 180ish *F? I see about the same but the temps here are rather cool, and this is with the stock T-stat.