Mystery Clutch
03-05-2007, 04:04 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Mystery Clutch
Some of you manual tranny enthusiasts might shake your head and wonder....
While driving in a pretty heavy downpour last week I experienced something that has never happened to me before. While exiting the highway at about 70 mph onto the off-ramp, I went to downshift and the clutch went to the floor leaving only an inch of spring resistance. I panicked a little, but was still able to stop safely and start again from a stop to drive home. There was no resistance at all on the drive home and it was very difficult to not spin the wheels or stall. I parked it and made some calls. The next morning it was back to normal. A good friend of mine works at Nissan in the service dept and he had it checked out that morning. There were no leaks or any damage at all to the system. The only thing I can think of is the rain I was driving in. Anyone ever experienced this is an 04?
While driving in a pretty heavy downpour last week I experienced something that has never happened to me before. While exiting the highway at about 70 mph onto the off-ramp, I went to downshift and the clutch went to the floor leaving only an inch of spring resistance. I panicked a little, but was still able to stop safely and start again from a stop to drive home. There was no resistance at all on the drive home and it was very difficult to not spin the wheels or stall. I parked it and made some calls. The next morning it was back to normal. A good friend of mine works at Nissan in the service dept and he had it checked out that morning. There were no leaks or any damage at all to the system. The only thing I can think of is the rain I was driving in. Anyone ever experienced this is an 04?
03-05-2007, 06:44 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Check out this thread on "sticky clutch"
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....33#post4743633
and here is anothe one to check:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....83#post4415783
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....33#post4743633
and here is anothe one to check:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....83#post4415783
talk about pucker factor!
03-05-2007, 07:06 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
This topic has been discussed at length. Check the search feature..
Agree that the master cylinder is suspect.
03-14-2007, 01:43 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by Rusty Nutz
I had the same problem, they repalced the clutch master and slave under warranty four months ago. I havent had a problem since.
This has been a somewhat common problem, there have been a bunch of poosts on this one already.
This has been a somewhat common problem, there have been a bunch of poosts on this one already.
05-15-2007, 06:47 PM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
My wife's Max has experienced this clutch issue where she was driving in warm weather and she loss clutch pressure until she reached halfway down. I made an appointment with the stealership and finally read this thread finding that issue is intermittent. Sure enough went out an hour or two later and the clutch pressure was fine.
The stealership could not reproduce the problem for two days. Since they could verify the problem, they would not change the master/slave cylinder under warranty. They said it would me $321 to replace the master/slave cylinder.
Mean while they came up with new issues:
1. Missing carrier bolt on the rear brake caliper. Apparently, they said I have aftermarket pads on because they had little wear and they look new. Wow, this amazed me because they were never touched or replaced. (they said then she must be really light on the brakes.) In fact, the last mechanic who touched them probably was them (a year ago) when the Max suffered from warped front rotors and wheel shimmy. And then they said that she drives on the brakes Huh!!!!!
So I said either the car never came with it 
or they screwed with it. $53 for part and installation.
2. Dirty K&N air filter that they want to replace. Huh NO.
3. Dirty cabin air filter. Huh, I replaced it 3 months ago.
4. 48,000 mile service. OK, stop right there, Do not want it done. Thank you very much.
Bottomline: I'm going to different mechanic outside Nissan to replace the master/slave cylinder so my wife will have more confidence in the Max. I'll gladly pay anyone that is not affillated with Nissan. I hope that will resolve the clutch issue and I will install the carrier bolt myself,
The stealership could not reproduce the problem for two days. Since they could verify the problem, they would not change the master/slave cylinder under warranty. They said it would me $321 to replace the master/slave cylinder.
Mean while they came up with new issues:
1. Missing carrier bolt on the rear brake caliper. Apparently, they said I have aftermarket pads on because they had little wear and they look new. Wow, this amazed me because they were never touched or replaced. (they said then she must be really light on the brakes.) In fact, the last mechanic who touched them probably was them (a year ago) when the Max suffered from warped front rotors and wheel shimmy. And then they said that she drives on the brakes Huh!!!!!
So I said either the car never came with it or they screwed with it. $53 for part and installation.2. Dirty K&N air filter that they want to replace. Huh NO.
3. Dirty cabin air filter. Huh, I replaced it 3 months ago.
4. 48,000 mile service. OK, stop right there, Do not want it done. Thank you very much.
Bottomline: I'm going to different mechanic outside Nissan to replace the master/slave cylinder so my wife will have more confidence in the Max. I'll gladly pay anyone that is not affillated with Nissan. I hope that will resolve the clutch issue and I will install the carrier bolt myself,
05-17-2007, 05:22 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 213
I had this problem last summer. I had it again last Friday. No pedal pressure. Clutch rested almost entirely on floor. Clutch smoked.
I took my car to local dealership on Monday. The technician observed the car “all day” and couldn’t reproduce symptoms. Service manager said that Nissan would not replace any parts under warranty without their confirmed diagnosis.
Here’s where I got angry, and forgive me if I highjack this thread a little, but it is relevant. I pointed out that it might have been cheaper to have the tech replace the clutch master-cylinder than spent “all day” diagnosing it. Service manager said, “But who would pay for it?” I told him, “The same person who pays for the mechanic to diagnose the problem.” Service manager informed me that a tech does not receive compensation for a diagnosis. Nissan only pays technicians for fixing a problem. I told the service manager that we may have a major problem.
I presented the argument that Nissan has a major flaw in their system. Based on how Nissan compensates their technicians, like commissions on a sale, none of them have the incentive/ability to dedicate enough time to properly diagnose this type of problem. None of them can take themselves off the floor to drive my car for the one or two hours required to reproduce my clutch symptoms. Without their diagnosis, it is not covered under warranty. So unless I bring my car into the dealership at the exact moment the clutch is failing, I’m screwed. It seems like I’m not the only one in this situation. It has happened to enough of us that it shouldn’t be a mystery to Nissan. They need to acknowledge that a problem exits with their clutches and step up to the plate and fix it.
I took my car to local dealership on Monday. The technician observed the car “all day” and couldn’t reproduce symptoms. Service manager said that Nissan would not replace any parts under warranty without their confirmed diagnosis.
Here’s where I got angry, and forgive me if I highjack this thread a little, but it is relevant. I pointed out that it might have been cheaper to have the tech replace the clutch master-cylinder than spent “all day” diagnosing it. Service manager said, “But who would pay for it?” I told him, “The same person who pays for the mechanic to diagnose the problem.” Service manager informed me that a tech does not receive compensation for a diagnosis. Nissan only pays technicians for fixing a problem. I told the service manager that we may have a major problem.
I presented the argument that Nissan has a major flaw in their system. Based on how Nissan compensates their technicians, like commissions on a sale, none of them have the incentive/ability to dedicate enough time to properly diagnose this type of problem. None of them can take themselves off the floor to drive my car for the one or two hours required to reproduce my clutch symptoms. Without their diagnosis, it is not covered under warranty. So unless I bring my car into the dealership at the exact moment the clutch is failing, I’m screwed. It seems like I’m not the only one in this situation. It has happened to enough of us that it shouldn’t be a mystery to Nissan. They need to acknowledge that a problem exits with their clutches and step up to the plate and fix it.
05-17-2007, 10:45 AM
#13
I have had the same problem over the years. I was lucky to have been able to nurse it to a NIssan dealer when I did have have problem, However, they were not too eager to fix it or do more than a cursor glance. I am not thrilled with the stealership, so it may be in everyones best interest to replace the master/slave on their own and hope the problem vanishes.
05-17-2007, 11:50 AM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 213
Deus you may be right, but I think Nissan should pay for the repair since it happened during the car's warranty period. To all, forgive me again for talking about myself on SweetJone's thread, but the intermittent nature of the clutch issue is frustrating. It happened to me again today while I was on the highway. For those in my area, I was leaving Philadelphia, heading north on Rt. 95 in semi bumper-to-bumper traffic. Not a fun place to lose a clutch, even if only for a few minutes.
I called my service department from the road. (I’ve got their phone number memorized. How bad is that?) While on the phone, I told the service manager to document in my car’s history the time and date that the clutch failed again. If I can’t bring my car to the service department while the clutch is failing before my warranty expires, my hope is that if I document enough clutch failures, Nissan may still fix it under warranty.
I called my service department from the road. (I’ve got their phone number memorized. How bad is that?) While on the phone, I told the service manager to document in my car’s history the time and date that the clutch failed again. If I can’t bring my car to the service department while the clutch is failing before my warranty expires, my hope is that if I document enough clutch failures, Nissan may still fix it under warranty.
05-21-2007, 04:54 AM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 213
For those interested in an update, I have some information about my clutch situation. Once again SweetJones, sorry for high jacking your thread but I hope you find it relevant.
While my clutch acted up, I was able to get my car into the dealership. The technician examined my car in the parking lot, which gave me the opportunity to look over his shoulder and even help a tiny bit. While the clutch pedal was on the floor, the tech was able to manually move the clutch fork lever back and forth. The pedal would not return to the up position unless I pulled it up. At first the tech thought there may be a problem with the clutch fork spring, but largely dismissed it because of the clutch problem’s intermittent nature. He then suspected the slave cylinder, which apparently assists the clutch in returning to its normal position. Lastly, he took a long screw driver and tapped the master clutch cylinder, which is located next to the master brake cylinder. When the tech tapped the master clutch cylinder, the clutch pedal popped right back up and had normal pressure. Based on that, the tech said it is possible that one of the internal seals may not seat correctly all the time. As a result, that seal permitted pressure to leak past it into the rest of the system. That could explain the partial to full loss of pressure. At least that was my understanding of his explanation.
Bottom line, the tech ordered a master and slave cylinder. Hopefully that will fix the problem. If not, he said the next likely culprit is that fork spring. To fix that, they must drop the entire transmission to get inside the bell housing. I’m crossing my fingers that it is the clutch cylinders.
While my clutch acted up, I was able to get my car into the dealership. The technician examined my car in the parking lot, which gave me the opportunity to look over his shoulder and even help a tiny bit. While the clutch pedal was on the floor, the tech was able to manually move the clutch fork lever back and forth. The pedal would not return to the up position unless I pulled it up. At first the tech thought there may be a problem with the clutch fork spring, but largely dismissed it because of the clutch problem’s intermittent nature. He then suspected the slave cylinder, which apparently assists the clutch in returning to its normal position. Lastly, he took a long screw driver and tapped the master clutch cylinder, which is located next to the master brake cylinder. When the tech tapped the master clutch cylinder, the clutch pedal popped right back up and had normal pressure. Based on that, the tech said it is possible that one of the internal seals may not seat correctly all the time. As a result, that seal permitted pressure to leak past it into the rest of the system. That could explain the partial to full loss of pressure. At least that was my understanding of his explanation.
Bottom line, the tech ordered a master and slave cylinder. Hopefully that will fix the problem. If not, he said the next likely culprit is that fork spring. To fix that, they must drop the entire transmission to get inside the bell housing. I’m crossing my fingers that it is the clutch cylinders.
07-17-2007, 02:31 PM
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Hi guys!
So, I read through all the clutch issue topics...
I have had the same sticking clutch issue with my max for few months now...
It only happens to me when I'm stuck in traffic for a longer than usual time period (where I have to use more clutch than usual). Then after a while, it would come back to normal.
I called the dealer just now and it seems like my extended warranty would cover the master and slave cylinders... But, here is my question. Can this problem be fixed just by replacing master and/or slave cylinders?
Can anyone who fixed this problem provide me with little more guidance?
Thanks in advance.
Oh, btw, I'm taking my car to the dealer tomorrow morning, so any quick responses would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
So, I read through all the clutch issue topics...
I have had the same sticking clutch issue with my max for few months now...
It only happens to me when I'm stuck in traffic for a longer than usual time period (where I have to use more clutch than usual). Then after a while, it would come back to normal.
I called the dealer just now and it seems like my extended warranty would cover the master and slave cylinders... But, here is my question. Can this problem be fixed just by replacing master and/or slave cylinders?
Can anyone who fixed this problem provide me with little more guidance?
Thanks in advance.
Oh, btw, I'm taking my car to the dealer tomorrow morning, so any quick responses would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
07-17-2007, 03:16 PM
#19
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 21
The dealer could not verify the issue after a couple of days. They offered no solution but other extraneous work so I got fed up. I paid another establishment to change the master and slave cylinders and bleed the system. Have not had a issue since that.
This was for the clutch pedal losing pressure where pedal would be depressed and there would be no pressure until half way down. After letting the Max sit in the garage pressure would come back like nothing happened.
This was for the clutch pedal losing pressure where pedal would be depressed and there would be no pressure until half way down. After letting the Max sit in the garage pressure would come back like nothing happened.
07-17-2007, 04:13 PM
#20
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Originally Posted by Harvey
The dealer could not verify the issue after a couple of days. They offered no solution but other extraneous work so I got fed up. I paid another establishment to change the master and slave cylinders and bleed the system. Have not had a issue since that.
This was for the clutch pedal losing pressure where pedal would be depressed and there would be no pressure until half way down. After letting the Max sit in the garage pressure would come back like nothing happened.
This was for the clutch pedal losing pressure where pedal would be depressed and there would be no pressure until half way down. After letting the Max sit in the garage pressure would come back like nothing happened.
What do you exactly mean by bleeding the system? I just want to make sure the dealer could cover it under warranty, in addition to changing master and slave cylinders.
Thanks.
07-17-2007, 04:57 PM
#22
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Ok, I just spoke to a technician at Midas to get a different opinion.
He told me that the pressure is basically losing by over-usage of clutch, and it is quite typical for manual transmissions... He just recently repaired one by switching master and slave cylinders. He also told me that he charged $310 to that customer.
Anyways, I'm taking my car to the dealer tomorrow morning. If the diagnosis is any different, I'll post...
He told me that the pressure is basically losing by over-usage of clutch, and it is quite typical for manual transmissions... He just recently repaired one by switching master and slave cylinders. He also told me that he charged $310 to that customer.
Anyways, I'm taking my car to the dealer tomorrow morning. If the diagnosis is any different, I'll post...
07-17-2007, 05:30 PM
#24
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
That is totally false. Overusage has nothing to do with it. Its a defect in the master or slave cylinder. Isnt Midas a brake and shock place?
Well, I took my car for brake inspection and asked him about my clutch issue... (btw, Midas do clutches...) As you know, I'm no expert, and he just seemed like he knew what he was talking about... He definitely seemed more knowledgeable than the service advisor I spoke to at my dealer...
Anyways, sorry if I'm wrong...
07-17-2007, 06:44 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by Harvey
The dealer could not verify the issue after a couple of days. They offered no solution but other extraneous work so I got fed up. I paid another establishment to change the master and slave cylinders and bleed the system. Have not had a issue since that.
This was for the clutch pedal losing pressure where pedal would be depressed and there would be no pressure until half way down. After letting the Max sit in the garage pressure would come back like nothing happened.
This was for the clutch pedal losing pressure where pedal would be depressed and there would be no pressure until half way down. After letting the Max sit in the garage pressure would come back like nothing happened.
07-17-2007, 07:49 PM
#26
Originally Posted by koreanmaximan
Yeah... I can't really buy that overusage is the main cause, but for my case it somehow makes a very little sense... as it only happens to me when I'm excessively using my clutch during the LA morning traffic congestions...
Well, I took my car for brake inspection and asked him about my clutch issue... (btw, Midas do clutches...) As you know, I'm no expert, and he just seemed like he knew what he was talking about... He definitely seemed more knowledgeable than the service advisor I spoke to at my dealer...
Anyways, sorry if I'm wrong...
Well, I took my car for brake inspection and asked him about my clutch issue... (btw, Midas do clutches...) As you know, I'm no expert, and he just seemed like he knew what he was talking about... He definitely seemed more knowledgeable than the service advisor I spoke to at my dealer...
Anyways, sorry if I'm wrong...
07-18-2007, 10:41 AM
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
The reason he is wrong is`because its not "overusage" but that the seals are weak and the traffic in LA (where Im from too) cuases the seals to leak air when they shouldnt. LA traffic should NOT cause clutch to lose pressure . . ever!
I think you are right. He did mention something about air leakage and losing pressure... (I don't really care...)
But, howcome it doesn't do this all the time...? That's my question. Why does the clutch become weird only on certain occasions?
Well, I dropped off my car at the dealer this morning describing what has happened to my clutch and that it doesn't always happen... I just hope they could correct this problem.
07-18-2007, 03:39 PM
#30
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Ok, so I called the dealer to check the status on my car, and of course they say they couldn't find anything wrong with the clutch... and asking me to just pick up my car and pay half hour technician fee of $50... for nothing...
This is BS!! How can I prove to him that there's something wrong with the clutch? Should I just tell them to open up the whole clutch assembly and diagnose? Do you think it'd be worth it? What if there is nothing wrong inside too, and ask me to pay even more money?
For anyone who got this fixed, which I'd assume is to replace master and slave cylinders, is it clearly noticeable that there IS something wrong when the whole clutch assembly is opened?
Thanks again.
This is BS!! How can I prove to him that there's something wrong with the clutch? Should I just tell them to open up the whole clutch assembly and diagnose? Do you think it'd be worth it? What if there is nothing wrong inside too, and ask me to pay even more money?
For anyone who got this fixed, which I'd assume is to replace master and slave cylinders, is it clearly noticeable that there IS something wrong when the whole clutch assembly is opened?
Thanks again.
07-18-2007, 04:16 PM
#31
I'm looking at replacing my 00 Max (whos slave cylinder went out at 140K) with an 04 six speed. When I go look at it on Friday - anything I can do to find out if the master cylinder will cause me problems down the road?
07-18-2007, 04:19 PM
#32
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mchenry IL 60051
Posts: 139
clutch master cylinder problem
05 6sp max I have the same issue with the clutch grabbing at different heights of the clutch pedal. This happens pretty much all the time since its rush hour traffic for my hour ride into work. Dealer ship said they could not find the problem I only have 19,000 miles. My thinking on this is maybe once the engine is at normal operating temperature the piece of sh*! plastic clutch master cylinder get too warm getting soft cause the seals not to seal properly. Maybe if it were made of aluminum or metal the seals could seat properly regardless of the operating temp!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2659282
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2659282
07-18-2007, 04:58 PM
#33
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Ok, so I called the dealer again...
I told them if they are not able to identify the problem and still want me to pay $50 for nothing, I want a statement from the technician that he/dealer would be liable if I get into an accident due to this matter...
Guess what, they called me back and said they would replace ONLY master cylinder if agreed by me, and pay $50 labor fee & $50 deductible fee for extended warranty.
Do you think that was an ok decision by me? Can I actually or possibly fix this problem by changing the master cylinder alone? I'm asking because I was hearing that both master and slave cylinder needed to be replaced...
Any feedbacks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I told them if they are not able to identify the problem and still want me to pay $50 for nothing, I want a statement from the technician that he/dealer would be liable if I get into an accident due to this matter...
Guess what, they called me back and said they would replace ONLY master cylinder if agreed by me, and pay $50 labor fee & $50 deductible fee for extended warranty.
Do you think that was an ok decision by me? Can I actually or possibly fix this problem by changing the master cylinder alone? I'm asking because I was hearing that both master and slave cylinder needed to be replaced...
Any feedbacks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
07-18-2007, 05:00 PM
#34
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 293
Originally Posted by Rich96
I'm looking at replacing my 00 Max (whos slave cylinder went out at 140K) with an 04 six speed. When I go look at it on Friday - anything I can do to find out if the master cylinder will cause me problems down the road?
07-18-2007, 05:05 PM
#35
Originally Posted by koreanmaximan
Yeah... I can't really buy that overusage is the main cause, but for my case it somehow makes a very little sense... as it only happens to me when I'm excessively using my clutch during the LA morning traffic congestions...
Well, I took my car for brake inspection and asked him about my clutch issue... (btw, Midas do clutches...) As you know, I'm no expert, and he just seemed like he knew what he was talking about... He definitely seemed more knowledgeable than the service advisor I spoke to at my dealer...
Anyways, sorry if I'm wrong...
Well, I took my car for brake inspection and asked him about my clutch issue... (btw, Midas do clutches...) As you know, I'm no expert, and he just seemed like he knew what he was talking about... He definitely seemed more knowledgeable than the service advisor I spoke to at my dealer...
Anyways, sorry if I'm wrong...
07-18-2007, 09:32 PM
#36
Originally Posted by koreanmaximan
Ok, so I called the dealer again...
I told them if they are not able to identify the problem and still want me to pay $50 for nothing, I want a statement from the technician that he/dealer would be liable if I get into an accident due to this matter...
Guess what, they called me back and said they would replace ONLY master cylinder if agreed by me, and pay $50 labor fee & $50 deductible fee for extended warranty.
Do you think that was an ok decision by me? Can I actually or possibly fix this problem by changing the master cylinder alone? I'm asking because I was hearing that both master and slave cylinder needed to be replaced...
Any feedbacks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I told them if they are not able to identify the problem and still want me to pay $50 for nothing, I want a statement from the technician that he/dealer would be liable if I get into an accident due to this matter...
Guess what, they called me back and said they would replace ONLY master cylinder if agreed by me, and pay $50 labor fee & $50 deductible fee for extended warranty.
Do you think that was an ok decision by me? Can I actually or possibly fix this problem by changing the master cylinder alone? I'm asking because I was hearing that both master and slave cylinder needed to be replaced...
Any feedbacks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
my dealer didn't charge me for the time since they weren't able to diagnose anything, surprisingly.
by the way, I've lost my clutch while driving down the highway with light traffic... temp was probably 85-90 degrees though.
05-31-2008, 09:45 PM
#39
Ive got the clutch pedal pressure loss timing down now..here is what to look for and what not to do to prevent it from happenins:
In hot weather..when sitting in traffic (bumper to bumper) for ~20-30 mins or more..once you get onto a main road again and drive at speed you will most likely lose clutch pressure.
if you stop somewhere and it is safe to turn off your car (at a store or idiling in a parking lot etc) turn it off..letting it idle for a period of time in the hot weather will initate the problem and when you start driving you will most likely lose clutch pressure.
if you do lose clutch pressure...try to drive in 2nd gear so you can mostly stop or slow down and drive at a decent speed..the clutch should return to normal in 5-10 mins, if you let it idle itll take much longer. if you gotta stop with no pressure try to slow down and take the car out of gear w/o the clutch (when coasting, not accelerating or decelerating) and stop the car and turn it off. to start off again..hit the clutch put it in 1st or 2nd and start the car and than you can be off again..this can be difficult but its what you can do in an emergency situation (eg loosing pressyre suddenly before a stoplight or intersection) if worst comes to worst..just slow down and stop and let the car stall..its better to do that rather than hitting someone or something.
and lastly..if you drive thru a lot of bumper to bumper traffic than immadiately park and leave ur car off..chances are within a couple of hours coming back to your car your clutch will be on the floor..so plan accordingly.
just my observations of a bad clutch and city driving hope this helps some people until they get it fixed.
In hot weather..when sitting in traffic (bumper to bumper) for ~20-30 mins or more..once you get onto a main road again and drive at speed you will most likely lose clutch pressure.
if you stop somewhere and it is safe to turn off your car (at a store or idiling in a parking lot etc) turn it off..letting it idle for a period of time in the hot weather will initate the problem and when you start driving you will most likely lose clutch pressure.
if you do lose clutch pressure...try to drive in 2nd gear so you can mostly stop or slow down and drive at a decent speed..the clutch should return to normal in 5-10 mins, if you let it idle itll take much longer. if you gotta stop with no pressure try to slow down and take the car out of gear w/o the clutch (when coasting, not accelerating or decelerating) and stop the car and turn it off. to start off again..hit the clutch put it in 1st or 2nd and start the car and than you can be off again..this can be difficult but its what you can do in an emergency situation (eg loosing pressyre suddenly before a stoplight or intersection) if worst comes to worst..just slow down and stop and let the car stall..its better to do that rather than hitting someone or something.
and lastly..if you drive thru a lot of bumper to bumper traffic than immadiately park and leave ur car off..chances are within a couple of hours coming back to your car your clutch will be on the floor..so plan accordingly.
just my observations of a bad clutch and city driving hope this helps some people until they get it fixed.
05-31-2008, 10:10 PM
#40
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Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
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Not sure what years, but some of the newer Z's have this problem because Nissan got the bright idea to put the slave cylinder INSIDE the bellhousing. What happens is that during track runs or traffic the heat from the clutch causes the fluid to boil, and it also leads to failure of the slave cylinder in some instances.
I'm too tired to download the FSM for a 6th gen right now, but even if the slave isn't located in the bellhousing, since you guys are having similiar issues here's a quick partial remedy...........
clutch fluid = brake fluid. Go and get yourself some motul 600, the higher boiling point; while only a band-aid solution for an inherent design flaw; will make things 1000x times better, if not totally eliminate the problem.
I'm too tired to download the FSM for a 6th gen right now, but even if the slave isn't located in the bellhousing, since you guys are having similiar issues here's a quick partial remedy...........
clutch fluid = brake fluid. Go and get yourself some motul 600, the higher boiling point; while only a band-aid solution for an inherent design flaw; will make things 1000x times better, if not totally eliminate the problem.
Last edited by KRRZ350; 05-31-2008 at 10:14 PM.