ok people...need help.

need detailed installation directions regarding the MMI from Taz...i'm especially directing this post towards Taz and Kam because we all know that kam is a camera ***** when it comes to installing things on the max and is always extremely detailed with his pics. so please i would hope that you took some good pics doing the job thanks for anyone else to chime in.

 

PM chernmax. He might have pictures of the install.

 

I did the install also with the MMI's, however sorry don't have any install pictures...

 

Are you planning on doing them (front and rear) yourself? I had mine installed about three weeks ago and from what I saw the machanic doing the rear is a real ***** to put in.

 

I'm waiting for the weather to get warmer before crawling under to install the front one. I am planning to do it myself without any power tools. So if you have any tips, please pass the word on.

 

For the front, I placed a tranny support stand and loosened up the side tranny support bolts and removed the 2 forward subframe bolts and pushed down just enough to get enough clearance to stuff that front b!tch in. I also used liquid soap to lubricate and help slide in easier...

You may get less pain if you have access to a lift...

 

ok here's my next question...i know warren your from around the area and chris you still have friends from around the area...do you guys recommend any shops that you trust for qaulity work? cause i talked to hogan and they can't get involved with aftermarket parts and installations anymore...thanks

 

If you don't mind the travel, I can recommend the shop that did mine. It's in Brooklyn.

 

Sorry bro, Warren or other locals are your best bet, I do almost all my own work and whatever I think is outside my scope (or I'm being lazy) I take it to local shops here in MD...

 

chernmax, i am assuiming that it doesnt matter auto to 6 spd? i am oging to install the front on thrusday and the rear probably this summer wehn i put in the cltuch.

 

The rear is a pain in the ***, YOU Must take the Subframe to get access to the rear bolt of the mount...

Thats where all mechanics are going to be Cursing like crazy.

 

Correct, a non issue other than I have heard that the 6MT is easier too install...

 

LOL, Cursing and throwing tools...

 

Correct. The 6sp is much easier because you dont have to lower the subframe.


1) jack up engine on jack and wood piece (thats what i did)

Do the front one first, remove the middle bolt and then one of the lower bolts, the one closer to the engine. Now tilt the mount forward and you will see the whole where u have to stuff the insert. Key to life here is, use some lube or grease to get the insert into the slot. Otherwise its very hard getting it in there.

2) Replace the two bolts and tighten back up. Lower the engine just a tad.

3) Rear mount insert, you need to remove the y-pipe. Once that is complete there is a bracket holding up some random stuff right in the way of the motor mount. Remove that bracket.

4) Remove the middle bolt and the lower bolt closer to the engine. Lube up the insert and place it in the slot.

5) Replace all screws and your done.

INSTALL PICS

Sorry I didnt take detailed pics on this one, but feel free to pm me I'll give you my number if you want me to walk you through it.

As for the 5AT rear mount, sorry bro, I havent done one of those yet.

Take Care,

Kamski

 

oooo dont know if i said this yet. But the friggin inserts are like one of the nicest mods I have done to date. The cars suffers less shift jitter and has a more responsive feeling.

Kamski

 

And for a 5AT, less side to side throttle/engine movement means more power (not HP) down to the wheel. So us 5AT guy's loose less of the 20% power loss from the crank to the wheel...

 

Did you install both the front and rear?

 

yo wes i really don't mind cause i was planning on going to brooklyn to do my tints anyways...i think the tint shop is in sheephead's bay i think??? off the belt prkwy

lemme know the person's number and name...thanks

 

Just the front, I still have the rear to install, since I'm doing it myself, I need more time at the shop to drop the subframe and Header Y-pipe.

 

God bless you for even attempting that yourself...I can attest to having my machanic curse while completing the rear insert. Good luck.

 

Yes but being retired military, I have access to the base auto hobby shop and you can rent every tool and the work bay with car lift for the amazing price of $1.50 an hr (yes the decimal point is in the right place).

It's also why I have a sign in my garage which reads:

 

Can these bolts be removed without air tools?

 

PM sent, let me know how it turns out.

 

thanks man...

 

is it that much better just with the front on? its still sitting in my glove box waiting for a day where im not too busy.

 

OH YEAH, LMFAO!!!

No, i busted my knucles pretty bad on the front one, so i went out and bought my air tools that night............

Kamski

 

I've done it once by hand and I'll never do it again!!! But it is possible

 

have a 5AT and was under the impression it's easier to lower the subframe but not required -maybe that's where my problem lies

i've read the instructions on here and looked at a few of the pics - i put the car up on ramps today and got under it to look and attempt this install - i jacked up the engine as said but not a whole lot - maybe i need to lift it more? - i wasn't able to get enough clearance to use a socket wrench very effectively - i eventually gave up on that idea and use some air power until the bolt that's shown here was just spinning



i was unable to pull it out though and eventually just gave up and put it back fully tightened - figured i'd post on here for some advice and hope for the best

 

5AT's and CVT's are the ones that have to lower the subframe for access to the rear. It's the 6MT's that do not.

 

i should have been more clear - this is for the front MMI

 

any more detailed instructions out there for idiots like me?

 

umm not sure, although it's tight working space, the front is general very straight forward. If you can get it to the point of free spinning then maybe use the open end side of a wrench under the bolt head ( on the shaft of the bolt) and tap it out with a hammer. Sounds like the angle is just slightly out

 

heh so i feel like an idiot - got all three of the bolts out

but couldn't really move the mount around enough to make room to slide insert in - i imagine i'd need at least an inch to place with and it looked more like i had half of a centimeter - is there some trick to moving it around so that it slides in easier?