Rear brake upgrade
05-22-2007, 08:03 AM
#82
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
deuski is doing good. I happen to speak both.
BTW, I was in San Francisco this past weekend and the prices of gas $4.00 / gallon are nuts.
Szto oni ohujeli?
Co oni ocipieli?
BTW, I was in San Francisco this past weekend and the prices of gas $4.00 / gallon are nuts.
Szto oni ohujeli?
Co oni ocipieli?
Calkowicie
Any updates on the rear 350z brakes yet DEUSKI?
05-23-2007, 05:39 PM
#84
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Brakes calipers have arrived. I notice that that Z front pads are smaller than our OEM pads. Interesting. I am cleaning up the rear calipers and preparing them for painting. I sanded the exposed surface some to make it smoother. Ill prime, paint and clear coat it before installing. Pics to follow soon.
05-23-2007, 08:19 PM
#85
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Brakes calipers have arrived. I notice that that Z front pads are smaller than our OEM pads. Interesting. I am cleaning up the rear calipers and preparing them for painting. I sanded the exposed surface some to make it smoother. Ill prime, paint and clear coat it before installing. Pics to follow soon.
Kamski
05-25-2007, 08:39 AM
#92
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
red hat, slotted/drilled rotors... that just shouts for unwanted attention and is a braking performance decreaser! lol imo though 
05-25-2007, 09:52 AM
#94
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
not necessarily Dan, while the drilled rotors may have smaller contact area the whole system overall might be an upgrade.
blanks>slotted>drilled..........<BBK
05-25-2007, 06:03 PM
#96
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
Slotted rotors would be a slight upgrade if you go psycho on spirited driving, but the drilled is just over kill and takes away a lot of surface area for the pad to "grab" onto and it will also most likely not be possible to get the rotors "cut" when needed. I was wanting to get slotted rotors, but ended up going with blanks due to the benefits that blanks have over slotted.
blanks>slotted>drilled..........<BBK
blanks>slotted>drilled..........<BBK
errrrr............
y do all performance cars come with drilled rotors? Because you vent the heated gas outwards away from the contact area. No matter how new and improved pads are thease days u will have have to have vented or drilled for optimum braking. Anything else you hear is a plain and blatant lie.
Why use drilled or slotted discs?
Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:
The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.
The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia.
Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures.
Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:
The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.
The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia.
Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures.
http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html#q18
Kamski
05-25-2007, 06:28 PM
#99
Slotted I would MAYBE do, but drilled, definitely not. IMO, "performance cars" such as Benz and BMW have drilled rotors because those cars can do extremely spirited driving and weigh A LOT, and would need that "ventilation," and imo, it's just an excuse for the dealership to mark up the prices on the rotors and pads for the "performance models"
Why doesn't Lamborghini, Ferrari, Aston Martin, or many other super cars have drilled rotors? 
Why doesn't Lamborghini, Ferrari, Aston Martin, or many other super cars have drilled rotors?
05-25-2007, 06:38 PM
#100
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
Slotted I would MAYBE do, but drilled, definitely not. IMO, "performance cars" such as Benz and BMW have drilled rotors because those cars can do extremely spirited driving and weigh A LOT, and would need that "ventilation," and imo, it's just an excuse for the dealership to mark up the prices on the rotors and pads for the "performance models"
Why doesn't Lamborghini, Ferrari, Aston Martin, or many other super cars have drilled rotors?
Why doesn't Lamborghini, Ferrari, Aston Martin, or many other super cars have drilled rotors?
http://www.drivewire.com/porschepart...rakerotor.html
Look up the parts online. LOL they all come with top notch drilled rotors.
me away, but ima stick to what I've heard 
05-26-2007, 06:40 AM
#103
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
errrrr............
y do all performance cars come with drilled rotors? Because you vent the heated gas outwards away from the contact area.
y do all performance cars come with drilled rotors? Because you vent the heated gas outwards away from the contact area.
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
No matter how new and improved pads are thease days u will have have to have vented or drilled for optimum braking. Anything else you hear is a plain and blatant lie.
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
Please read this... written by Brembo engineers.
http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html#q18
Kamski
http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html#q18
Kamski
But hey, if you believe everything car companies tell you, you might be interested in this:
Originally Posted by Turbonator engineers
The Turbonator’s airflow dynamic is designed to improve your vehicle’s air intake system by creating a more efficient airflow path throughout the intake hose. As air travels through an intake it bounces around bends and elbows in the hose causing it to slow down. Spinning air can be less susceptible to these abrupt changes in direction.
Once this redirected air reaches the engine, it can produce a swirling, fast burn effect in the combustion chamber to create finer particles of atomized fuel, allowing better flame propagation and more complete combustion. Swirling air has longer residence time with fuel than flat air. Since the air spins through the fuel rather than just shooting through in a straight line, it spends more time mixing with the gasoline in your engine.
Once this redirected air reaches the engine, it can produce a swirling, fast burn effect in the combustion chamber to create finer particles of atomized fuel, allowing better flame propagation and more complete combustion. Swirling air has longer residence time with fuel than flat air. Since the air spins through the fuel rather than just shooting through in a straight line, it spends more time mixing with the gasoline in your engine.
Once people here understand that there is no way, shape, or form that crossdrilled rotors will improve their maxima's braking performance...the better they will be. Slotted may have a marginal upside in some applications, but for the most part they just kill your pad life on a street-driven car.
There is nothing wrong with drilled, as long as you don't mined reduced pad life, reduced rotor life, possibility of rotor cracking, and higher liklihood of brake nose.
People need to simply admit that they bought them for looks, and leave it at that. There's nothing wrong with cosmetic mods, as long as people recognize that they are cosmetic, and not performance (see: "body kit").
05-26-2007, 06:53 AM
#104
Also another thing to keep in mind:
what stops your car? The friction of the pads and rotor surface.
why do people get BBks's with oversized rotors? To get a better caliper AND a larger rotor swept area.
what happens when you drill or slot a rotor? You REDUCE the contact area between the pad and rotor.
Sure, it's probably only a very small amount. But since we're arguing "things that don't make a difference on a street-driven car...."
what stops your car? The friction of the pads and rotor surface.
why do people get BBks's with oversized rotors? To get a better caliper AND a larger rotor swept area.
what happens when you drill or slot a rotor? You REDUCE the contact area between the pad and rotor.
Sure, it's probably only a very small amount. But since we're arguing "things that don't make a difference on a street-driven car...."
so we got him
05-26-2007, 02:37 PM
#106
Pad fade occurs for several reasons. All friction materials have a coefficient of friction curve over temperature. Friction materials have an optimal working temperature where the coefficient of friction is the highest. Sometimes you can use the brakes so hard that you get the temperature over the point of maximum friction to where the coefficient of friction curve starts to decline.
The mechanics of this decline in the coefficient of friction are varied. At a certain temperature, certain elements of the pad can melt or smear causing a lubrication effect, this is the classic glazed pad. Usually the organic binder resin starts to go first, then even the metallic elements of the friction material can start to melt. At really high temperatures the friction material starts to vaporize and the pad can sort of hydroplane on a boundary layer of vaporized metal and friction material which acts like a lubricant. Pad fade is felt as a car that still has a decent, non mushy feeling brake pedal that won't stop even if you are pushing as hard as you can. Usually it builds somewhat slowly giving you time to compensate for it, but some friction materials have a sudden drop off of friction when the heat is put on them resulting in sudden dangerous fade.
The mechanics of this decline in the coefficient of friction are varied. At a certain temperature, certain elements of the pad can melt or smear causing a lubrication effect, this is the classic glazed pad. Usually the organic binder resin starts to go first, then even the metallic elements of the friction material can start to melt. At really high temperatures the friction material starts to vaporize and the pad can sort of hydroplane on a boundary layer of vaporized metal and friction material which acts like a lubricant. Pad fade is felt as a car that still has a decent, non mushy feeling brake pedal that won't stop even if you are pushing as hard as you can. Usually it builds somewhat slowly giving you time to compensate for it, but some friction materials have a sudden drop off of friction when the heat is put on them resulting in sudden dangerous fade.
Yes I do fully agree that cast holes are far far better then drilled holes. And yes Ferrari, McLaren, Porsche, RennTech, Laborghini use cast hole rotors. But those companies have rotors made specifially for them. If brembo or RTP made cast hole rotors for our cars I would be running them right now.
If you trully believe that F1, Nascar, Cascar, WRX, Dakkar Raly and various other forms of motor sports dont run holled Rotors then you trully have a blind over yours eyes.
Plain rotors are just that, to be used on plain car for getting groceries. If you use your car for getting groceries only then enjoy plain rotors, nice and quiet, they wont terrorize your pads and the missus will be happy.
If your going to put your car through the paces at Lone Pines, Mosport DDT, or Cayuga Raceway, then for god sakes use a performance rotor with an agressive pad.
Nuff said.
05-26-2007, 02:49 PM
#107
No wait.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-...-SRP/index.asp
So your telling me, Wilwood, Brembo, StopTech and ProjectMu engineers are wrong and you are correct?
You better be off to re-educate them cause they seem to have it all wrong.
Same with all the big race teams, some one ought to tell them that drilled/cast hole rotors are causing them to have longer stopping distances due to less contact area.
Damn, looks like the planet is upside down. Time to re-educate everyone.
At the end of the day, I run slotted. But I did drill little holes at the end of the slots to improve shedding of the pad buildup from the slots them selves.
Kamski
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-...-SRP/index.asp
So your telling me, Wilwood, Brembo, StopTech and ProjectMu engineers are wrong and you are correct?
You better be off to re-educate them cause they seem to have it all wrong.
Same with all the big race teams, some one ought to tell them that drilled/cast hole rotors are causing them to have longer stopping distances due to less contact area.
Damn, looks like the planet is upside down. Time to re-educate everyone.
At the end of the day, I run slotted. But I did drill little holes at the end of the slots to improve shedding of the pad buildup from the slots them selves.
Kamski
05-26-2007, 07:26 PM
#108
You go Kam, no matter how new the pads are all pads release gasses. Even if the amount is small(er) they need to be vented. Most (if not) all BBKs comes with drilled and slotted rotors. If the were not good for you I don't care about any opinion but AMG wouldn't put them on. I said AMG because I strickly believe they go for performance far more then for looks. Oh and BTW the new ceramic rotors are drilled too.
05-26-2007, 09:45 PM
#109
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
You go Kam, no matter how new the pads are all pads release gasses. Even if the amount is small(er) they need to be vented. Most (if not) all BBKs comes with drilled and slotted rotors. If the were not good for you I don't care about any opinion but AMG wouldn't put them on. I said AMG because I strickly believe they go for performance far more then for looks. Oh and BTW the new ceramic rotors are drilled too.
05-31-2007, 05:12 AM
#110
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
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Originally Posted by irish44j
Also another thing to keep in mind:
what stops your car? The friction of the pads and rotor surface.
why do people get BBks's with oversized rotors? To get a better caliper AND a larger rotor swept area.
what happens when you drill or slot a rotor? You REDUCE the contact area between the pad and rotor.
Sure, it's probably only a very small amount. But since we're arguing "things that don't make a difference on a street-driven car...."
what stops your car? The friction of the pads and rotor surface.
why do people get BBks's with oversized rotors? To get a better caliper AND a larger rotor swept area.
what happens when you drill or slot a rotor? You REDUCE the contact area between the pad and rotor.
Sure, it's probably only a very small amount. But since we're arguing "things that don't make a difference on a street-driven car...."
I personally got my drilled/slotted rotors for the looks, however I have not had warping problems like many have experienced with the nissan blanks...
05-31-2007, 07:57 AM
#111
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
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Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
Chern, time to order your set. LOL
Kamski
Kamski
07-27-2007, 05:02 AM
#112
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 514
Originally Posted by SilverMax_04
The parking brake in the Maxima is located inside of the small drum that sorrounds the hub of the rear wheels. It is a small drum brake system and should not impact the rear disk brakes. I assume (but don't know) that the 350Z has the same parking brake system, so new 350Z rotors should have a similar small drum in the center.
07-27-2007, 04:41 PM
#113
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G35 system is highly like;ly the same sinc`e the rotors are the same. U adjust it by turning the middle notched little "wheel" which expands the shoes. Here is a pic:
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