I just got an 04" Maxima SE, i cant return it or go after a dealer and i am just past the 60k mark so i need to fix it myself or pay. Two weeks ago the ABS kicked on under normal braking and triggered the "ABS" and "Brake" light in the dash to go on. The ABS motor is stuck running even when the vehicle is turned off and the keys are out of it, So i need to disconnect the fuse to kill power to the motor at night or it will drain the battery. So i used a Snap-On scan tool to pull the codes and they read as follows.

-C1111 Pump Motor Circuit Fault
-C1124 L Rear Inlet Solenoid Circuit Fault
-C1140 ABS Actuator Relay Circuit Fault

So with the scan-tool i was able to observe the sensors in a dynamic situation by driving the vehicle and in real time observe that the sensors do have matching speeds, so i assume that the 4 sensors are working correctly.

Also when i put the key in the ignition, turn it to the on position without starting the car the pump goes off for about 5 seconds and then kicks back on and off speratically.

Has anybody seen this situation before? what are my options to diagnose or fix this without being raked over the coals at the stealership? Is there any easy way of getting to that motor without ripping apart the entire windshield wiper area? are there specific connectors that i should pull apart and clean?

Somebody tell me something. Thanks.

 

wholy flying crabs batman...... Ive never seen a post describing that type of a problem before.... I am pretty sure some of the other maxima guru's can help you out... All i have to say is; prepare to spend some money.....

 

Yea, thats what the service manager at the dealership told me. I dont want to spend a fortune for them to chase ghosts and not be able to fix it.

 

I may be wrong but it sounds more like an electrical failure unless the solenoid is built into the ABS Pump. IMO, a shop that specializes in brakes may be your best bet over a stealership, lot's of brake shops have experience with our cars and may even do it better than the stealership. IMO once the warrenty has expired, their is very little to gain by having a stealership with their inflated prices do the work.

Pick up a yellow pages and start making phone calls, asking if a brake shop does ABS work is free!!!

 

I agree with chernmax, call a few brake places and get some quotes. I had a similar thing happen on my Silverado - - the ABS motor would stay on all the time! Find the fuse for the ABS motor and pull it ASAP. In most cases the failure is an electrical problem with the ABS control module (like chernmax said) and not related to the motor, but if the fuse is not pulled the motor will burn out and they can be expensive.

 

Here is a site you can check out. They specialize in ABS control module repair, mostly four wheel drive, but they might be able to help. The down side is you have to pull the control module and send it to them; the plus side is they are rather inexpensive. My Silverado would run me about $1400 at a repair shop, with ModuleMaster it’s $150. I have not done this yet, because I have not taken the time to pull the module.

http://www.modulemaster.com/index.html

 

There is a TSB about this problem http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB07-016.htm.
I had that happen to me but got lucky and did not have any codes if I did have codes it would have cost $2000 to fix.

 

Coolhand I have the same problem and my 04 just turned 60k as well. Since you didn't have the codes what fixed yours? My ABS engages under normal braking conditions, but no lights on my dash have lit yet.

 

Sorry for the double post, but I had a few more things to say.

I just bought my 04 SE, fully loaded and I love it, except for this brake issue that started today. I've had the car about a week, and the brakes pulsated whenever I applied them from the get go. The owner said they just had the rotors turned, but in my opinion turning rotors is a waste of time. I got the car pretty cheap, and figured I could just do a brake job when I got the chance. Well, starting this morning when I apply the brakes it's as if the ABS is kicking on for no reason. Like I said above, no ABS or brake lights have lit on the dash, and the ABS motor doesn't stay on when I shut the car off like the gentleman above stated. The rotors and pads look like ****, I won't lie. my question is this:

Should I replaceall the rotors and pads, since they seem to need it anyway rather than assume it's an electrical failure?

If I do, should I buy some nice cross drilled rotors and performance pads. (Any suggestions for brands?)

I found some cross drilled rotors on EBay that are plated and poweder coated for $200 a set:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-05...22161075QQrdZ1

Also, this car still has Goodyear RSA's on it, and they seem LOUD! Anybody else experiance this?

Thank you in advance for helping a forum noob.

Jonathan

 

Don't buy those overpriced rotors. Check the link below, Chernmax, THE MAN, recommended these on a previous thread. Only $149 for the set of 4 + shipping, really good deal. These will for sure be my next rotors, he uses them on his Maxi.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1981-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

if you guys just bought these cars..most used cars come with a 3000 mile 3 month quality guarantee, you should argue that this is a HUGE safety issue, as ABS kicking in when not needed will increase stopping distance, and if it is not working can cause a loss of control in a panic stop. talk with the dealership first about fixing it on them..unless u bought it privately.. and my 6mt doesnt have VDC, but im pretty sure if you have VDC that it will not work if the ABS is not properly working..i THINK I know EBD will not work, and possibly even brake assist ( EBD = electronic brakeforce distribution)

 

Thanks for the info Supermario and y2k2maxse! It is much appreciated! I'm going to double check the codes, and if none show up then I'm going to do an entire brake service and see what happens. Mine was a private deal, so I'm SOL there. Hey, sh*t happens, and you deal with it. Thanks again.

 

Yes the RSAs are loud and not very good in snow. IMHO they are lousy tires. I got Michilin Pilot Sports -- expensive but a great tire -- particularly in rain or snow.

 

Hey anybody remember last summer when this happened to me?

It is a $2,000 fix for a new ABS actuator. It happened to me out of warrenty and I flipped out at the delership and they gave in and covered it for free, thak god.

I will look for the thread

 

It absolutly positively is a computer probem, DO NOT buy any new brake pads or rotors until this i fixed, you'd be wasting your money. I had the EXACT things you described happen to me.

 

Thanks for the advice BlackMax! This morning on my way to work it seemed to get even worse, as the ABS kicked on almost every time I applied the brakes. I'm going to call around and see if any shops here in Albany have any experience with this issue. What I would really like to do is just buy and replace the part myself, but I would hate to misdiagnose the problem and end up spending more money than necessary.

 

By the way, is this the actuator you are talking about? I wonder what kind of a job this is to put in.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-...spagenameZWD1V

 

I bought the car on a private deal, the dealership pretty much told me that im SOL and its going to cost a fortune if it is an actuator.

Has anybody personally replaced one of these? is there an easy way to get to it? i am going to look around for one in a junk yard.

 

Johnathan, if i were you i would do the TSB on the sensors first, you may be spending alot of money for nothing if you are not throwing codes yet and the motor is not sticking on. If your ABS is going on under normal braking it sounds like sensors. Run a realtime test on the sensors with a scantool, like i did above and see if they read the same speeds under normal driving and braking, if you see one of the sensors MPH dropping off then thats most likely what is triggering your ABS to kick on.

 

Excellent advice brother, thank you. No matter what happens I will post the results so any future maxima.org member can diagnose his problem easier. I really hope it's just a sensor like you said, because I REALLY love this car, and if I have to spend a fortune to fix it after putting only a few hundred miles on it then I will have a sour taste in my mouth.

Thanks again everyone!

 

Does anybody know if the actuator/motor assy out of an 05-07 will work in an 04? or did they switch something up?
Does an 04' SE Automatic 5-speed have VDC and EBD?

 

Part of the reason I got the dealership to pay for it is that they misdagnosed the problem as an ABS sensor, replaced it, charged me for it...then turned around and told me "oh, that will be another $1,400, its something else" after promising to me its nothing more then a sensor and would be ready by the end of that day...

So yeah, could be a sensor...but i wouldnt bet on it.

 

I think they are different because most 04's don't have Traction Control or VDC. When I was looking up the part, there were 3 different actuator's listed.

One without
One with Traction Control
One with Traction Control and VDC

 

jonathan4465 The ruber boots around the sensor were interfering with the sensor so they cut them away and that was the end of the problem cost me $145 to diagnois and fix the problem that is in Canada 85 bucks an hour labour. I hope this helps you.

 

Wow! You were pretty lucky coolhand! Let's hope I have the same fortune!

I guess what I will do first is follow the TSB and make sure the sensors are functioning as they should, including cutting the rubber away. (Since the TSB mentions this as well)

I will keep everyone posted with my results.

 

the 04's do come with EBD and VDC as an option..as far as Im aware they do..