Got a little teaser...
07-18-2007, 07:38 PM
#1
Got a little teaser...
Big thanks to silverfox from 6thgenmaxima.org for making me save money on speakers and just telling me to get dynamat!
I'm not done either!
More is coming in tomorrow and I am going to finish up the rear end-under the rear deck, side walls of the trunk, some by the spare wheel, the trunk itself and if there is some leftover, I will do the speakers in each door.
What you see in the pictures is: under the rear seat, behind the rear seat, the wheel wells, and the rear deck. All of this made an ***-load of a difference in ride quality and sound!!! My speakers used to rattle like crazy, but now they are kept STFU and produce amazing bass! My radio actually has good bass now and my CD's I have to turn the bass down! There was an extremely annoying metal on metal sound coming from the rear right corner window, but after dynamating the little holes around that area...NO MORE!
IMO this is a great mod for those looking to up the "luxuriness" (yes, I made that word up) of the Max and make it have a quiet and plush ride.
For what you see there I purchased to boxes of this-
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
and I have about 1.5 sheets left from that and I just ordered another box of that to finish up the rear, so I think I should be good!
This took a good 10ish hours of work...the second day I did this I half-assed it for quite a bit because I still heard some rattles from the rear which discouraged me a little, but that was taken care of later on!
DISCUSS
07-18-2007, 07:53 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 75
Thats alot of work,,, personally i think dynamat is garbage,,, maybe you'll have better luck with it, but it's not going to take away the rattle 100%
make sure you take care of the license plate to, thats where alot of the rattle comes from.....
make sure you take care of the license plate to, thats where alot of the rattle comes from.....
07-18-2007, 08:42 PM
#6
I guess I was expecting these 
opinions/comments from this site
The Law-one thing that I forgot to post...both the packages put together weighed an astounding 22lb...
Caster Troy-The license plate was taken care of a long time ago with a few pieces of 3M tape
And both the speaker rattles and rear window rattles are no more, so you must've done an insufficient job with yours...
In the end, I am EXTREMELY SATISFIED with the outcome and the added <35lb won't be killing me too much...
opinions/comments from this siteThe Law-one thing that I forgot to post...both the packages put together weighed an astounding 22lb...
Caster Troy-The license plate was taken care of a long time ago with a few pieces of 3M tape
And both the speaker rattles and rear window rattles are no more, so you must've done an insufficient job with yours...
In the end, I am EXTREMELY SATISFIED with the outcome and the added <35lb won't be killing me too much...
07-18-2007, 09:24 PM
#8
projectmax, looks very nice! castor troy, what do you say is better? s klass, any recommedations? ive been thinkin about doing this to mine as well. i have a mtx 12" sub in a vented box and it rattles. for now, i just leave the trunk access panel down so that [i would hope] relieves the pressure. ive always heard that dynamat wasnt the best bang for the buck. there were others that did as well but less costly. so ive read...
ive also read that most of the rattle comes from the rear deck. projectmax, your thoughts? and any better pix of how you did the rear deck?
do you have a system or just the bose package?
ive also read that most of the rattle comes from the rear deck. projectmax, your thoughts? and any better pix of how you did the rear deck?
do you have a system or just the bose package?
07-18-2007, 09:49 PM
#9
Originally Posted by eK9aT10pSi
projectmax, looks very nice! castor troy, what do you say is better? s klass, any recommedations? ive been thinkin about doing this to mine as well. i have a mtx 12" sub in a vented box and it rattles. for now, i just leave the trunk access panel down so that [i would hope] relieves the pressure. ive always heard that dynamat wasnt the best bang for the buck. there were others that did as well but less costly. so ive read...
ive also read that most of the rattle comes from the rear deck. projectmax, your thoughts? and any better pix of how you did the rear deck?
do you have a system or just the bose package?
ive also read that most of the rattle comes from the rear deck. projectmax, your thoughts? and any better pix of how you did the rear deck?
do you have a system or just the bose package?
For the rear deck, I just used 1.5 sheets of Dynamat. I cut one in half and stuck it directly in the middle of the rear deck and molded it all the way to the back by the window, while the rear deck still fit snuggly!
And yes, I would say that 90% of the rattles come from the rear deck! I will take some more pictures from the rear when I finish it up this weekend, but there is a hole that you an reach from the rear deck and under the rear deck. This is where I pin-pointed some excessive metal on metal annoying sound, so I just cut up some pieces of Dynamat and carefully placed them in that hole and BAMSKI, creaks are gone!
And yes, from what I've just recently seen, Dynamat is costly, but imo, VERY effective! I'm not an expert on this stuff, maybe I was just biased on the name, but all I know is that I have quite a few friends that have audio in their car that is worth nearly half of their car and they use Dynamat.
The website that I posted is the cheapest there is. If you go onto the CRSX, then they will price match and give you free shipping. (which shipping will save you roughly $20 depending on what you get.
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/CAD.html
07-19-2007, 07:58 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 634
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
Big thanks to silverfox from 6thgenmaxima.org for making me save money on speakers and just telling me to get dynamat!
I'm not done either!
More is coming in tomorrow and I am going to finish up the rear end-under the rear deck, side walls of the trunk, some by the spare wheel, the trunk itself and if there is some leftover, I will do the speakers in each door.
What you see in the pictures is: under the rear seat, behind the rear seat, the wheel wells, and the rear deck. All of this made an ***-load of a difference in ride quality and sound!!! My speakers used to rattle like crazy, but now they are kept STFU and produce amazing bass! My radio actually has good bass now and my CD's I have to turn the bass down! There was an extremely annoying metal on metal sound coming from the rear right corner window, but after dynamating the little holes around that area...NO MORE!
IMO this is a great mod for those looking to up the "luxuriness" (yes, I made that word up) of the Max and make it have a quiet and plush ride.
For what you see there I purchased to boxes of this-
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
and I have about 1.5 sheets left from that and I just ordered another box of that to finish up the rear, so I think I should be good!
This took a good 10ish hours of work...the second day I did this I half-assed it for quite a bit because I still heard some rattles from the rear which discouraged me a little, but that was taken care of later on!
DISCUSS
I appreciate your posts.
Joshua
07-19-2007, 10:05 AM
#12
I don't have the ratles even thou I have the zenclosure with 2 10-inchers in the back. The only thing that rattles was the license place and that was fixed with dynamating the back of the plate. As for dynamat, its great but expensive. There are materials our there that are 1/3 of the cost and work better then dynomat. I'll look through favorites and try to find it later.
BTW. For those interested, zenclosure is a custom box that accomodates either 2 x 10" or 2 x 12" and fits snugly in the back of the trunk. You get great bass and still have a nice trunk for all the garbage (tools).
BTW. For those interested, zenclosure is a custom box that accomodates either 2 x 10" or 2 x 12" and fits snugly in the back of the trunk. You get great bass and still have a nice trunk for all the garbage (tools).
07-19-2007, 10:43 AM
#14
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
Bernard-please post these different companies and prices, and how do you know that they "perform better than Dynamat?"
dan
dan
http://www.b-quiet.com
http://www.raamaudio.com/
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
http://www.fatmat.com/
07-19-2007, 11:02 AM
#15
Here is a copy of the STICKY from the AUDIO section by Metal MAXIMA. I copied the original post below. To visit the whole thread visit:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=414337
The Definitive Sound-Deadening Thread!!!
Alright, boys and girls...as promised here is my $0.02 on the sound deadening/dampening issue. I am disgusted with the volumious responses given in which Dynamat is touted as being the greatest vibrational-stopper ever. WRONG! It's not bad, but there are many better, cheaper alternatives that will give you not as good an effect, but BETTER. I do not claim to be an expert in this category (or any for that matter), but I have done an extensive amount of research on all of these brands and have gained a great deal of information in my studies.
************************************
WHY - We deaden our cars to defeat unwanted vibrations in the trunk, door, rear deck, etc. so that our cars don't sound like $20,000 peices of tin in a windstorm. Some of us do it to kill ambient noise from the road, wind, etc. Lexus inteiors are equipped with piezo-electric devices which actually serve to cancel out the ambient frequencies between 500 - 2000hZ. While we don't have that advantage, there is ALOT we can do to stop it. A well-deadened system will have a much richer bass and midbass sound & feel since the waves will be in our interior, not stuck in the nether known as our interior panels. Another great thing about deadening our cars is that we can reduce the heat inside the cabin since the deadener acts as a resistor against the energy in ambient air.
************************************
DEFINITIONS
There are two types of sound deadening, which are as follows:
MASS LOADING - Involves adding weight to a particular panel of the vehicle to inhibit vibration/rattle. Somewhat effective in defeating ambient soundwaves, great for bass improvement. Pads and liquid deadeners work best for this application.
BARRIER LOADING - Involves adding an acoustical absorber as to absorb sound waves from ambient noise (road, engine, wind, etc.). Great for ambient noise, somewhat effective in improving midbass. Foams work best for this application.
************************************
TYPES
PADS - Butyl Rubber & Asphalt pads such as Dynamat, Damplifier, Roadkill, etc. Need to be applied to metal. Look for a thick pad (>45mils) with a nice heatfoil sheild (>4mils).
FOAMS - Ensolite, rattle pad, overkill, acoustical foam, etc. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works best over an asphalt pad. Look for a closed cell foam.
LIQUID - eDead V3.0, Spectrum, Sludge. Works for both mass and barrier loading. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works well alone or over asphalt pads. Look for a semi-viscous putty/paste. Much easier painted than sprayed.
*************************************
BRANDS
Here are a number of various companies whom produce deadeners. Many members have used many different brands. This list is in no particular order. Many of these brands are cheaper because they come factory direct, thereby eliminating the middle-man cost. Click on the brand name to link to their site.
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
*************************************
SURFACE PREPARATION
As with paints, you too must take measures to ensure proper adhesion of your deadener. A highly regarded practice is to first wipe the area down thoroughly with a degreaser to remove any oils that might lie on the surface. This is to be followed with a second wipe down of acentone to make sure the surface is bone dry. Make sure NOT to cut corners on this step!!!
*************************************
APPLICATION
ASPHALT MAT & FOAMS
(1) Using a heatgun, warm the surface of the adhesive side until it begins to tack.
(2) Firmly press your mat into the desired spot.
(3) Thoroughly roll over the mat with a heavy-duty roller. I'd recommend a rubber roller since it will contour a bit better to unlevel planes.
(4) For foams without the benifit of OEM adhesive, I recommed 3M Super 77 Spray Glue.
LIQUIDS
(1) DO NOT SPRAY!!!
(2) Use a quality 2" horse-hair brush and simply paint on.
*************************************
HOW-TO
Proper Door & Trunk Sound-Deadening & You
Elimination of Wind Noise from Windows (by Housecor)
Eliminate Rear Deck Rattle (by Housecor)
Upgrade the BIG THREE (worth adding)
INTERIOR OVERHAUL PROJECT III - +500sqft Second Skin Deadening Worklog Installation!
*************************************
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=414337
The Definitive Sound-Deadening Thread!!!
Alright, boys and girls...as promised here is my $0.02 on the sound deadening/dampening issue. I am disgusted with the volumious responses given in which Dynamat is touted as being the greatest vibrational-stopper ever. WRONG! It's not bad, but there are many better, cheaper alternatives that will give you not as good an effect, but BETTER. I do not claim to be an expert in this category (or any for that matter), but I have done an extensive amount of research on all of these brands and have gained a great deal of information in my studies.
************************************
WHY - We deaden our cars to defeat unwanted vibrations in the trunk, door, rear deck, etc. so that our cars don't sound like $20,000 peices of tin in a windstorm. Some of us do it to kill ambient noise from the road, wind, etc. Lexus inteiors are equipped with piezo-electric devices which actually serve to cancel out the ambient frequencies between 500 - 2000hZ. While we don't have that advantage, there is ALOT we can do to stop it. A well-deadened system will have a much richer bass and midbass sound & feel since the waves will be in our interior, not stuck in the nether known as our interior panels. Another great thing about deadening our cars is that we can reduce the heat inside the cabin since the deadener acts as a resistor against the energy in ambient air.
************************************
DEFINITIONS
There are two types of sound deadening, which are as follows:
MASS LOADING - Involves adding weight to a particular panel of the vehicle to inhibit vibration/rattle. Somewhat effective in defeating ambient soundwaves, great for bass improvement. Pads and liquid deadeners work best for this application.
BARRIER LOADING - Involves adding an acoustical absorber as to absorb sound waves from ambient noise (road, engine, wind, etc.). Great for ambient noise, somewhat effective in improving midbass. Foams work best for this application.
************************************
TYPES
PADS - Butyl Rubber & Asphalt pads such as Dynamat, Damplifier, Roadkill, etc. Need to be applied to metal. Look for a thick pad (>45mils) with a nice heatfoil sheild (>4mils).
FOAMS - Ensolite, rattle pad, overkill, acoustical foam, etc. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works best over an asphalt pad. Look for a closed cell foam.
LIQUID - eDead V3.0, Spectrum, Sludge. Works for both mass and barrier loading. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works well alone or over asphalt pads. Look for a semi-viscous putty/paste. Much easier painted than sprayed.
*************************************
BRANDS
Here are a number of various companies whom produce deadeners. Many members have used many different brands. This list is in no particular order. Many of these brands are cheaper because they come factory direct, thereby eliminating the middle-man cost. Click on the brand name to link to their site.
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
*************************************
SURFACE PREPARATION
As with paints, you too must take measures to ensure proper adhesion of your deadener. A highly regarded practice is to first wipe the area down thoroughly with a degreaser to remove any oils that might lie on the surface. This is to be followed with a second wipe down of acentone to make sure the surface is bone dry. Make sure NOT to cut corners on this step!!!
*************************************
APPLICATION
ASPHALT MAT & FOAMS
(1) Using a heatgun, warm the surface of the adhesive side until it begins to tack.
(2) Firmly press your mat into the desired spot.
(3) Thoroughly roll over the mat with a heavy-duty roller. I'd recommend a rubber roller since it will contour a bit better to unlevel planes.
(4) For foams without the benifit of OEM adhesive, I recommed 3M Super 77 Spray Glue.
LIQUIDS
(1) DO NOT SPRAY!!!
(2) Use a quality 2" horse-hair brush and simply paint on.
*************************************
HOW-TO
Proper Door & Trunk Sound-Deadening & You
Elimination of Wind Noise from Windows (by Housecor)
Eliminate Rear Deck Rattle (by Housecor)
Upgrade the BIG THREE (worth adding)
INTERIOR OVERHAUL PROJECT III - +500sqft Second Skin Deadening Worklog Installation!
*************************************
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