Let the Polishing Begin
#1
Let the Polishing Begin
As you all know I purchased and upper and lower intake manifold on Ebay off an 06 for 150.00. Anyway today I started the polishing of it. This is after a couple hours of sanding with a 60 Grit to remove the casting. I will post more pics as I make progress.
![](http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l272/JoesRedMax/IMG_0716.jpg)
#4
Ok, I got a little anxious and just had to see what it would look like so I sanded the large flat part with 80, 100, 120, 150, and 220 grit, then polished. I think it looks awesome, give opinions please.
![](http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l272/JoesRedMax/IMG_0719.jpg)
![](http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l272/JoesRedMax/IMG_0719.jpg)
![](http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l272/JoesRedMax/IMG_0718.jpg)
#9
When you knock down all the rough texture and tiny divots, the external surface area of the manifold is drastically reduced. Because of that, a polished casting will hold heat forever whereas a rough textured casting will cool comparatively quickly. A Google search will yield a couple of terabytes of argument on this topic but it is easy to demonstrate if you're interested.
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
#11
Originally Posted by bluemaxx
When you knock down all the rough texture and tiny divots, the external surface area of the manifold is drastically reduced. Because of that, a polished casting will hold heat forever whereas a rough textured casting will cool comparatively quickly. A Google search will yield a couple of terabytes of argument on this topic but it is easy to demonstrate if you're interested.
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
![Werd](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
#12
Originally Posted by bluemaxx
.......
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
#13
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Originally Posted by bluemaxx
When you knock down all the rough texture and tiny divots, the external surface area of the manifold is drastically reduced. Because of that, a polished casting will hold heat forever whereas a rough textured casting will cool comparatively quickly. A Google search will yield a couple of terabytes of argument on this topic but it is easy to demonstrate if you're interested.
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
Take your polished piece and your yet to be polished piece and lay them both in direct sunlight for a half hour or so. Then pick up both and scurry to the shade of the garage. The touch test should be adequate to demonstrate but if your a stickler, use one of those infrared thermometers, about $20 at Home Depot.
Begin arguing...... NOW!
I agree with Glude, consider having the inside ported and polished since you have the spare. I discussed this over the phone with Aaron92SE Nissan works when I bought my Phenolic spacers. PM him, he's a great guy and can give you some insight in this area. BTW the phenolic spacers reduced the temp of my IM by about 40degrees. It might make the holding heat argument irrelevant. Good luck.
#14
Originally Posted by madmik
Thanks. My intent to polish was to reflect heat away from the IM based on how radiant barriers reflect heat. Figured the inside cooling would be done by the air sucked in.
For maximum cooling, I believe beadblasting followed by black anodizing will win the day but I'll defer to the physics/thermodynamics crowd on that one.
#15
Originally Posted by Glude
If I picked up a spare IM the outside is NOT what id be modifying.
#19
Originally Posted by JoesRedMax
Easy, I am going to have it professionally ported by a local race shop, then will install it along with the Phenolic Spacer.
![lolrun](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/lolrun.gif)
Porting, polishing, spacers. Don't forget to check the spark plugs (Iridium maybe - safe with nitrous), tighten the oil covers, inspect PCV valve, etc.
#20
Originally Posted by AuAltima3.5
Just a guess, but by polishing it you have lost surface area, and will decrease the ability to transfer heat to the surroundings.
#22
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Originally Posted by AuAltima3.5
Just a guess, but by polishing it you have lost surface area, and will decrease the ability to transfer heat to the surroundings.
How much is he really taking off. 1mm or realistically how much surface area are we talking about losing, 1in combined surface area?
Just add the phenolic spacers and get at least a 30degree drop in IM tempurature. The little bit that is being polished off cannot overcome that kind of a difference. I say it's a non-issue. If I had a spare IM, I'd be having that ported and polished as well.
#24
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Isn't it better to get a Kinetix IM rather than spending time and money polishing the entire stock manifold AND THEN porting and polishing the inside? ![Scratch](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/scratchhead.gif)
![Scratch](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/scratchhead.gif)
#25
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Isn't it better to get a Kinetix IM rather than spending time and money polishing the entire stock manifold AND THEN porting and polishing the inside?
Originally Posted by JoesRedMax
Not for me, intake was 150.00, I can get it ported for 200.00. all total much cheaper than the 800.00 for the Kinetix.
![+1](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/+1.gif)
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