Rear window taillight piece rattling with bass
08-02-2007, 12:35 PM
#3
it's not just the 3rd breaklight housing that rattles , the entire rear decklid rattles , there was a TSB on this issue off hand i don't remember the number but even with the factory radio it will rattle. basically what the TSB stated to solve the problem was to take the rear decklid off , on the bottom of it there are "spines" molded into the plastic , just use self adheasive insulating tape and put it on all the spines , that will solve the problem.
08-02-2007, 03:25 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 65
i have that problem too
i am running 2 JL 12"s W6's and mine rattles all the TIME !!!! i couldnt ever think of something to fix it so it just rattles....if anyone has any ideas or suggestions that would be awesome...
but yea mine rattles all the time its so annoying
i am running 2 JL 12"s W6's and mine rattles all the TIME !!!! i couldnt ever think of something to fix it so it just rattles....if anyone has any ideas or suggestions that would be awesome...
but yea mine rattles all the time its so annoying
08-02-2007, 08:23 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 65
is it really hard to do if i wanted to do all of that...
i have one problem, i had my system installed and they installed my amp and my cap on the back of my seats that fold down...
to be honest i just want the rattling from the top brake light to do away...
what should i dynamat ? and how much dynamat do you think ill need ?
i have one problem, i had my system installed and they installed my amp and my cap on the back of my seats that fold down...
to be honest i just want the rattling from the top brake light to do away...
what should i dynamat ? and how much dynamat do you think ill need ?
08-02-2007, 09:31 PM
#14
Originally Posted by falloutboy35
is it really hard to do if i wanted to do all of that...
i have one problem, i had my system installed and they installed my amp and my cap on the back of my seats that fold down...
to be honest i just want the rattling from the top brake light to do away...
what should i dynamat ? and how much dynamat do you think ill need ?
i have one problem, i had my system installed and they installed my amp and my cap on the back of my seats that fold down...
to be honest i just want the rattling from the top brake light to do away...
what should i dynamat ? and how much dynamat do you think ill need ?
You can just buy one set of trunk dynamat (5 sheets) found here...
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
I used a little more than 1.5 sheets on the rear deck. I cut one sheet in half and laid it out evenly on the left and right side and another .5 sheet right in the middle of the deck and then just bits and pieces to cover up the rest. You could use the rest to do some trunk work or speakers throughout the doors or whatever else you would want!
08-02-2007, 11:29 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: a meadow south of Atlanta
Posts: 8,143
If all that is rattling on your car is the hard plastic housing of the high-mounted brake light against the rear window (that was all that ever rattled with mine), I stuck two little clear soft plastic 'bumpers' less than half an inch in diameter onto the plastic brake light, one in each lower corner between the hard plastic and the rear window.
Those little soft plastic bumpers are available at any hardware store, Lowes, Home Depot, and even some WalMarts. They are very cheap, and are usually used as 'feet' on the bottom of things like vases that you don't want to scratch the furniture.
I put those on in June 2004, and never heard another sound from the brake light housing hitting the window.
I also used two of those same little soft plastic bumpers to get rid of a rattle from the rear license tag.
Those little plastic bumpers are weatherproof, so anything fixed with them is fixed permanently.
Those little soft plastic bumpers are available at any hardware store, Lowes, Home Depot, and even some WalMarts. They are very cheap, and are usually used as 'feet' on the bottom of things like vases that you don't want to scratch the furniture.
I put those on in June 2004, and never heard another sound from the brake light housing hitting the window.
I also used two of those same little soft plastic bumpers to get rid of a rattle from the rear license tag.
Those little plastic bumpers are weatherproof, so anything fixed with them is fixed permanently.
08-04-2007, 09:54 AM
#22
if i was comfortable enough to take all the panels out and be able to put them back in without issue , i would be on that in a heartbeat , but when it comes to that i'm not so sure of myself. I can install the stereo and run the wires without a problem but it's the panels that have me stumped
08-05-2007, 05:15 PM
#23
Originally Posted by rottdog300
if i was comfortable enough to take all the panels out and be able to put them back in without issue , i would be on that in a heartbeat , but when it comes to that i'm not so sure of myself. I can install the stereo and run the wires without a problem but it's the panels that have me stumped
Read the Interior/Exterior section. Take your time when you pop a panel/trim out. My only warning is to unplug the battery as a safety precaution. Some panels have wires behind them (orange/yellow are for air bags). The rear pilar covers have the side airbag canisters behind them. Without electricity, they should not deploy.
If you can read a manual, you can do it.
08-06-2007, 10:35 AM
#25
Originally Posted by eK9aT10pSi
madmik, did what version did u use? i was also interested in edead but a lot of ppl were talking siht about it.
The service manual table of content is in fwd.pdf.
Same here about e-dead: the glue will let go, will melt away, etc. My car is always in the sun, 130-140F inside all day. E-dead holding on like first day.
08-06-2007, 10:55 AM
#26
I though i posted this somewhere already but here it is again.
Here is a copy of the STICKY from the AUDIO section by Metal MAXIMA. I copied the original post below. To visit the whole thread visit:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=414337
The Definitive Sound-Deadening Thread!!!
Alright, boys and girls...as promised here is my $0.02 on the sound deadening/dampening issue. I am disgusted with the volumious responses given in which Dynamat is touted as being the greatest vibrational-stopper ever. WRONG! It's not bad, but there are many better, cheaper alternatives that will give you not as good an effect, but BETTER. I do not claim to be an expert in this category (or any for that matter), but I have done an extensive amount of research on all of these brands and have gained a great deal of information in my studies.
************************************
WHY - We deaden our cars to defeat unwanted vibrations in the trunk, door, rear deck, etc. so that our cars don't sound like $20,000 peices of tin in a windstorm. Some of us do it to kill ambient noise from the road, wind, etc. Lexus inteiors are equipped with piezo-electric devices which actually serve to cancel out the ambient frequencies between 500 - 2000hZ. While we don't have that advantage, there is ALOT we can do to stop it. A well-deadened system will have a much richer bass and midbass sound & feel since the waves will be in our interior, not stuck in the nether known as our interior panels. Another great thing about deadening our cars is that we can reduce the heat inside the cabin since the deadener acts as a resistor against the energy in ambient air.
************************************
DEFINITIONS
There are two types of sound deadening, which are as follows:
MASS LOADING - Involves adding weight to a particular panel of the vehicle to inhibit vibration/rattle. Somewhat effective in defeating ambient soundwaves, great for bass improvement. Pads and liquid deadeners work best for this application.
BARRIER LOADING - Involves adding an acoustical absorber as to absorb sound waves from ambient noise (road, engine, wind, etc.). Great for ambient noise, somewhat effective in improving midbass. Foams work best for this application.
************************************
TYPES
PADS - Butyl Rubber & Asphalt pads such as Dynamat, Damplifier, Roadkill, etc. Need to be applied to metal. Look for a thick pad (>45mils) with a nice heatfoil sheild (>4mils).
FOAMS - Ensolite, rattle pad, overkill, acoustical foam, etc. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works best over an asphalt pad. Look for a closed cell foam.
LIQUID - eDead V3.0, Spectrum, Sludge. Works for both mass and barrier loading. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works well alone or over asphalt pads. Look for a semi-viscous putty/paste. Much easier painted than sprayed.
*************************************
BRANDS
Here are a number of various companies whom produce deadeners. Many members have used many different brands. This list is in no particular order. Many of these brands are cheaper because they come factory direct, thereby eliminating the middle-man cost. Click on the brand name to link to their site.
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
*************************************
SURFACE PREPARATION
As with paints, you too must take measures to ensure proper adhesion of your deadener. A highly regarded practice is to first wipe the area down thoroughly with a degreaser to remove any oils that might lie on the surface. This is to be followed with a second wipe down of acentone to make sure the surface is bone dry. Make sure NOT to cut corners on this step!!!
*************************************
APPLICATION
ASPHALT MAT & FOAMS
(1) Using a heatgun, warm the surface of the adhesive side until it begins to tack.
(2) Firmly press your mat into the desired spot.
(3) Thoroughly roll over the mat with a heavy-duty roller. I'd recommend a rubber roller since it will contour a bit better to unlevel planes.
(4) For foams without the benifit of OEM adhesive, I recommed 3M Super 77 Spray Glue.
LIQUIDS
(1) DO NOT SPRAY!!!
(2) Use a quality 2" horse-hair brush and simply paint on.
*************************************
HOW-TO
Proper Door & Trunk Sound-Deadening & You
Elimination of Wind Noise from Windows (by Housecor)
Eliminate Rear Deck Rattle (by Housecor)
Upgrade the BIG THREE (worth adding)
INTERIOR OVERHAUL PROJECT III - +500sqft Second Skin Deadening Worklog Installation!
*************************************
Here is a copy of the STICKY from the AUDIO section by Metal MAXIMA. I copied the original post below. To visit the whole thread visit:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=414337
The Definitive Sound-Deadening Thread!!!
Alright, boys and girls...as promised here is my $0.02 on the sound deadening/dampening issue. I am disgusted with the volumious responses given in which Dynamat is touted as being the greatest vibrational-stopper ever. WRONG! It's not bad, but there are many better, cheaper alternatives that will give you not as good an effect, but BETTER. I do not claim to be an expert in this category (or any for that matter), but I have done an extensive amount of research on all of these brands and have gained a great deal of information in my studies.
************************************
WHY - We deaden our cars to defeat unwanted vibrations in the trunk, door, rear deck, etc. so that our cars don't sound like $20,000 peices of tin in a windstorm. Some of us do it to kill ambient noise from the road, wind, etc. Lexus inteiors are equipped with piezo-electric devices which actually serve to cancel out the ambient frequencies between 500 - 2000hZ. While we don't have that advantage, there is ALOT we can do to stop it. A well-deadened system will have a much richer bass and midbass sound & feel since the waves will be in our interior, not stuck in the nether known as our interior panels. Another great thing about deadening our cars is that we can reduce the heat inside the cabin since the deadener acts as a resistor against the energy in ambient air.
************************************
DEFINITIONS
There are two types of sound deadening, which are as follows:
MASS LOADING - Involves adding weight to a particular panel of the vehicle to inhibit vibration/rattle. Somewhat effective in defeating ambient soundwaves, great for bass improvement. Pads and liquid deadeners work best for this application.
BARRIER LOADING - Involves adding an acoustical absorber as to absorb sound waves from ambient noise (road, engine, wind, etc.). Great for ambient noise, somewhat effective in improving midbass. Foams work best for this application.
************************************
TYPES
PADS - Butyl Rubber & Asphalt pads such as Dynamat, Damplifier, Roadkill, etc. Need to be applied to metal. Look for a thick pad (>45mils) with a nice heatfoil sheild (>4mils).
FOAMS - Ensolite, rattle pad, overkill, acoustical foam, etc. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works best over an asphalt pad. Look for a closed cell foam.
LIQUID - eDead V3.0, Spectrum, Sludge. Works for both mass and barrier loading. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works well alone or over asphalt pads. Look for a semi-viscous putty/paste. Much easier painted than sprayed.
*************************************
BRANDS
Here are a number of various companies whom produce deadeners. Many members have used many different brands. This list is in no particular order. Many of these brands are cheaper because they come factory direct, thereby eliminating the middle-man cost. Click on the brand name to link to their site.
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
*************************************
SURFACE PREPARATION
As with paints, you too must take measures to ensure proper adhesion of your deadener. A highly regarded practice is to first wipe the area down thoroughly with a degreaser to remove any oils that might lie on the surface. This is to be followed with a second wipe down of acentone to make sure the surface is bone dry. Make sure NOT to cut corners on this step!!!
*************************************
APPLICATION
ASPHALT MAT & FOAMS
(1) Using a heatgun, warm the surface of the adhesive side until it begins to tack.
(2) Firmly press your mat into the desired spot.
(3) Thoroughly roll over the mat with a heavy-duty roller. I'd recommend a rubber roller since it will contour a bit better to unlevel planes.
(4) For foams without the benifit of OEM adhesive, I recommed 3M Super 77 Spray Glue.
LIQUIDS
(1) DO NOT SPRAY!!!
(2) Use a quality 2" horse-hair brush and simply paint on.
*************************************
HOW-TO
Proper Door & Trunk Sound-Deadening & You
Elimination of Wind Noise from Windows (by Housecor)
Eliminate Rear Deck Rattle (by Housecor)
Upgrade the BIG THREE (worth adding)
INTERIOR OVERHAUL PROJECT III - +500sqft Second Skin Deadening Worklog Installation!
*************************************
08-06-2007, 11:42 AM
#27
the best solution to this is to use dynomat for keeping bass in and then dampen the upper deck and the side pieces. I took off the rear deck and took out the hard foam pieces that nissan installed replaced and added soft rubber sticky stuff from walmart that comes in rolls. I believe the stuff is designed for windows. very cheap and works beyond anything else I have used. I can post pics of the stuff if wanted. I also took out the plastic anchors that keep the rear deck in place. I put in nuts and bolts with washers. that will keep the rear deck secure without letting the third brake light touch the window. make sure you use that rubber stuff for the plastic that touches the back window, and around all the edges of the three pieces. also if you have enough base you will need to remove your review mirror and take it apart and dampen it also. other than that no problems here. I have 2 Diamond 12in subs and around 2500 watts in the trunk. the tail lights and middle piece of the outside of the trunk are another topic. good luck. If you want pics I can post.
08-07-2007, 06:58 AM
#29
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
Bernard-You posted that in my thread I made a while ago. IMO, from that info, Dynamat is one of the best products, a little pricier, but quality wise, it's pretty good.
08-08-2007, 04:13 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 147
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
Oh, no doubt, the DYNAMAT product is good....but...there are better products that can be had cheaper. I've used dynamat before on my Jeep, but if I can have better for less $$$, its no brainer.
10-18-2007, 06:36 AM
#37
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Click on the link and check out the comparison stats:
http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html
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