Sent in my car at 30k for servicing. The tech wrote on my service sheet that it "need belts". Before I call him to ask him what belts he meant, I would like to ask anyone who has any idea what belts need to be changed at 30k? I read our service booklet, at 30k Premium Maintenace, it said replace Engine belts. But if we follow Schedule 1 or 2, it just states to inspect engine belts. My questions are 1. Engine belts, do they mean aircon belt, fan belt, timing belt? 2. Is is a must that we change the engine belts at 3ok or just recommended?

 

Our cars do not have timing belts, nor fan belts. They are referred to as accessory belts.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=361526

 

Doubtful at 30k you need belts but you should be able to inspect them yourself. Look for cracks or frays in the belt. You may have to remove a cover to view the belt well (not sure off top of my head) but those are just push pins (use flat head screw driver to push up center then pop out).

 

wow...

 

Where kroyogen when you need him!

 

Stupid tech. He should have called before you got back. Power stering belt or serpentine belt (a/c, alternator). With the engine heat and mileage, they dry up and crack. 30k is possible. I will say probably serpentine belt. Its longer and under much tension.

 

Is it really a SERPENTINE BELT ? Its not routed like a traditional one would be .

 

Whatever we may refer to them as, they are relatively easy and cheap to repalce.

Take a look at them for yourself.

 

alright guys, thanks so much for the explanation of the various belts. Now I am sure what to talk to the tech now armed with the knowledge. And I will also do a check on my own first before speaking to the tech. I love this forum, all the help and info makes it so warm, esp to know there are so many helpful people out there...Thanks guys!!!

 

I have looked at them and know what they look like thanks. I just didnt know they were called serpenitne. I looked looked it up and it was called that for the way it was routed. Ours werent routed that way is why I asked.

 

My alt belt was whining and they replaced it while changing the tensionner pulley under warranty, so all I paid is the belt and 10 min labor.
40k miles

 

Stop being such a baby.

 

ok

 

 

Mine started making noise at around 70k miles. Bought the belts from the dealership for $36 and had Pep Boys install them. The car runs quiet like it's new again.

 

i know this is an old post and all, but i need to be replacing some of mine soon. I have 80k and they are starting to crack and squeal. Is this something that we can take on ourselves, or would you suggest a shop doing it?

 

I've replaced belts on a lot of cars, not my Max yet, too new, so no specific insight.

To do belts, you should probably ask yourself what kind of a mech you are. Judging from your question alone, I'd say you have very limited experience under the hood.

Belts can be easy if you're mechanically inclined, but can be a chore if you don't know what to look for and how various parts work. It's tight spaces, so you'll need patience...but if you've ever changed belts in another car, chances are you can handle this one I bet.

The question I pose back, are you up to the challenge?

 

Take it to the dealer or qualified mechanic and get it done right!No if, ands, or buts about it.

 

I wouldn't say that. I'd only say that if you're not comfortable doing the work. Otherwise, changing belts is only a little more complicated than changing headlights on these cars I bet...

 

ac belt easy to change, power steering a little more difficult. Get nissan part belts FTW

 

I am not an expert so to speak, but i do most routine maintenance myself. This i know is a bit beyond routine, but my understaning of replacing belts is loosening a tensioner and swapping it out (easier access on some cars over others). I have not changed a belt myself though...

Probably just take it to the shop near by and see what it would cost.

 

 

Just replaced my belts yesterday. Cursed so loud the neighbors are avoiding me. The A/C, Alternator belt is accessed normal. Release the pulley bolt and loosen the adjustor bolt on the idler pulley. The P/S belt is another matter. There is an adjuster bolt that has a locking nut that adjusts the tension like most cars, but Nissan has cleverly hidden a bolt that locks down the other side of the P/S pump with a long bolt BEHIND the pump; almost inaccessable. Why they didn't reverse this bolt so it could be accessed from the front (wheel side) is just perverse. It took me several hours of what should have been a half hour task to break this bolt loose.
I sprayed the threaded end of this bolt with PB Blaster and let it set for a while (don't get on belt or pulley), then got a long, adjustable bent head rachet (14mm six-sided socket) on it. Took a pry bar against the rachet handle to get enough force to break it loose.
All the rest of this belt change is normal/trivial, but this one bolt makes it a difficult task.
No wonder the dealership wanted $200 to change two $20 belts.

 

Good tip!

 

Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully your relationship with the neighbors will be ok! Ha.

I will take a look at it and see whether the 200 bucks is worth it or not...

 

Totally agree. I definetly recomend taking it to a shop so you get the right tension on the belts..too loose and it can jump the pulley or make noise, too tight and you can damage the belt by stretching it and seperating the rubber from the fibers inside the belt, also putting too much stress on the pulleys, causing premature bearing failure..etc

Especially on the top (alternator) belt, the adjuster bolt doesnt let you feel how much tension you are putting on it. You may feel comfortable, and say you are mechanically inclined and you can do this yourself, but techs do this for a living..and for good reason. The majority of people have no idea how much is involved in something 'simple' like an accessory belt. If you do it the correct way. I wont repair a car unless the customer is willing to fix it right. If your not willing to do it correctly don't do it at all.

And they call it a serpentine belt due to the multi rib flat design as opposed to the older v belts [with the big teeth] that don't last as long.

 

Hi: I have replaced my old belt, the one for the A/C, alt and Water pump.
The spec I have is .26"deflection between the crank pulley and A/C with
a 22 lb force.
I set it to that and used a small hand scale to apply the correct force.
It unfortunately is squeaking.
I checked the deflection after driving a bit, and it is the same, .26".
I tried some belt dressing, with no improvement.

I did find another chart for deflection, but it is for a 4th generation Maxima, and as the 2007 is a 6th generation, I am not sure if it is valid.
It is .146" for a new belt.

Is that the correct spec???

Thanks

Doug

 

You probably mean the power steering pump (PS belt). Our water pumps are chain driven from the timing chain.

That spec can be used, as the procedure, etc. is the same for all 95-08 Maximas.

 

Thanks NmexMAX, no I did not mean the p/s pump belt.
I am showing my lack of knowledge with this car in that you are quite correct I should not have included the water pump in the belt routing. :-)
It is the A/c and alt belt.

So the .146 deflection is accurate for that belt.
Will re-adjust and I should be good to go.
Interesting that I acquired the wrong deflection spec from my libraries online database.

Thanks for your input.

Doug