need some painting tips for new fin
05-20-2008, 04:01 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Queens NY
Posts: 403
need some painting tips for new fin
Bought a new fin on ebay, color silver -ABS plastic - I need to paint it in red but I don't want it to come out to amateur.
I need some one to give me advise on how to paint it in Red, how should i prepare the finished surface so that the new spray doesn't run. etc
thanks
I need some one to give me advise on how to paint it in Red, how should i prepare the finished surface so that the new spray doesn't run. etc
thanks
05-20-2008, 06:41 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Queens NY
Posts: 403
well guys, thanks for the tips. I'm going to stop by local shop ( maaco ) and see how much for a paint job.
If to much I will do it myself, 2000 grid-prime it - found website that sells my code A15 in spray bottle for 19 bucks - and couple of coats of clear coat.
wish me luck.
by the way this is an exact replica BMW 3 series fin.
this thing looks awsome on the maxima.
will post pictures once completed.
I usually don't bite, but I don't mind biting off a BMW.
If to much I will do it myself, 2000 grid-prime it - found website that sells my code A15 in spray bottle for 19 bucks - and couple of coats of clear coat.
wish me luck.
by the way this is an exact replica BMW 3 series fin.
this thing looks awsome on the maxima.
will post pictures once completed.
I usually don't bite, but I don't mind biting off a BMW.
Last edited by scrui; 05-20-2008 at 06:43 PM.
05-20-2008, 09:05 PM
#8
If you want it to look good and at least somewhat professional DO NOT paint it with a rattle can. Even if it's custom mixed from a automotive paint supply shop. BTW, those types of paints from auto paint supply shops are typically single stage so no clear coat is needed. Parts spanning more than 10 or 12 inches will tend to orange peel. You should only do small parts with a rattle can.
If you insist on doing it yourself using that method you should do the following.
1. Wet sand using 600 grit sand paper so there are no shiny surfaces. (I wouldn't listen to the guy that called it GRID
)
2. Clean the part with a high quality de-greaser and/or paint prep cleaner/detergent
3. Thoroughly dry the part with a clean, dry cloth or use compressed air
4. Wipe the part down with a tack cloth just before laying down the primer
5. Prime using a high quality primer specific for ABS/plastic
6. Let the primer completely dry(at least 24 hrs)
7. Wet sand again
8. De-grease again
9. Dry and tack cloth again
10. Shoot the paint - remember, light coats at first
To get it somewhat descent using a rattle can you'll probably want to lay the last coat or two on heavy to avoid orange peel. It'll take a long time to completely dry there is a chance of running it though so be careful.
Like some of the others have said...have it done professionally. Spend your money once and do it right the first time.
If you insist on doing it yourself using that method you should do the following.
1. Wet sand using 600 grit sand paper so there are no shiny surfaces. (I wouldn't listen to the guy that called it GRID
)2. Clean the part with a high quality de-greaser and/or paint prep cleaner/detergent
3. Thoroughly dry the part with a clean, dry cloth or use compressed air
4. Wipe the part down with a tack cloth just before laying down the primer
5. Prime using a high quality primer specific for ABS/plastic
6. Let the primer completely dry(at least 24 hrs)
7. Wet sand again
8. De-grease again
9. Dry and tack cloth again
10. Shoot the paint - remember, light coats at first
To get it somewhat descent using a rattle can you'll probably want to lay the last coat or two on heavy to avoid orange peel. It'll take a long time to completely dry there is a chance of running it though so be careful.
Like some of the others have said...have it done professionally. Spend your money once and do it right the first time.
05-20-2008, 09:55 PM
#9
If you want it to look good and at least somewhat professional DO NOT paint it with a rattle can. Even if it's custom mixed from a automotive paint supply shop. BTW, those types of paints from auto paint supply shops are typically single stage so no clear coat is needed. Parts spanning more than 10 or 12 inches will tend to orange peel. You should only do small parts with a rattle can.
If you insist on doing it yourself using that method you should do the following.
1. Wet sand using 600 grit sand paper so there are no shiny surfaces. (I wouldn't listen to the guy that called it GRID )
2. Clean the part with a high quality de-greaser and/or paint prep cleaner/detergent
3. Thoroughly dry the part with a clean, dry cloth or use compressed air
4. Wipe the part down with a tack cloth just before laying down the primer
5. Prime using a high quality primer specific for ABS/plastic
6. Let the primer completely dry(at least 24 hrs)
7. Wet sand again
8. De-grease again
9. Dry and tack cloth again
10. Shoot the paint - remember, light coats at first
To get it somewhat descent using a rattle can you'll probably want to lay the last coat or two on heavy to avoid orange peel. It'll take a long time to completely dry there is a chance of running it though so be careful.
Like some of the others have said...have it done professionally. Spend your money once and do it right the first time.
If you insist on doing it yourself using that method you should do the following.
1. Wet sand using 600 grit sand paper so there are no shiny surfaces. (I wouldn't listen to the guy that called it GRID
)2. Clean the part with a high quality de-greaser and/or paint prep cleaner/detergent
3. Thoroughly dry the part with a clean, dry cloth or use compressed air
4. Wipe the part down with a tack cloth just before laying down the primer
5. Prime using a high quality primer specific for ABS/plastic
6. Let the primer completely dry(at least 24 hrs)
7. Wet sand again
8. De-grease again
9. Dry and tack cloth again
10. Shoot the paint - remember, light coats at first
To get it somewhat descent using a rattle can you'll probably want to lay the last coat or two on heavy to avoid orange peel. It'll take a long time to completely dry there is a chance of running it though so be careful.
Like some of the others have said...have it done professionally. Spend your money once and do it right the first time.
05-21-2008, 08:14 AM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 293
But you're not going save the total cost to have it done professionally, as it will cost you about $30+ for materials plus your time
05-21-2008, 03:48 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Queens NY
Posts: 403
Well, just handed off to Maaco, 49 dollars total tax included, that's it.
I told the manager I expected more he said he would charge me more if I wanted.
LOL
told me to return tomorrow for pickup same time around 5 pm est.
will post pics soon.
I told the manager I expected more he said he would charge me more if I wanted.
LOL
told me to return tomorrow for pickup same time around 5 pm est.
will post pics soon.
Last edited by scrui; 05-21-2008 at 05:20 PM.
05-21-2008, 11:51 PM
#14
Great deal too BTW!
Last edited by sloonz; 05-21-2008 at 11:55 PM.
05-22-2008, 06:46 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Queens NY
Posts: 403
I guess that's one reason why we are all here, get some good tips and advise.
As for Maaco, I'm hoping all will come out well, they are a few blocks way from my house, and I've seen good work come out of there.
besides it's a small piece of plastic, how bad can they f**k it up.
I can't wait to pick it up this afternoon.
Planning to install it this weekend, we expecting high 70's, to low 80's over the weekend in NYC, instructions say to install it when its hot,
so that the 3M tape sticks better.
05-22-2008, 07:57 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 152
I had the local dealership paint a fiberglass sub box to match my car and it only cost about a $100.00 and it came out great so don't get cheap because everyone will see this and it's better to get it done right the first time.
Good Luck and post some pictures.
Chris
Good Luck and post some pictures.
Chris
05-22-2008, 12:05 PM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 293
05-22-2008, 04:03 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Queens NY
Posts: 403
That's cool, not everyone is going to feel it.
you're also looking at amateur pics in my back yard.
As for me, I'm totally feeling it.
As for the Accord spoiler, this is a aftermarket spoiler made both for the accord and maxima.
It's a BMW 3 series fin.
you're also looking at amateur pics in my back yard.
As for me, I'm totally feeling it.
As for the Accord spoiler, this is a aftermarket spoiler made both for the accord and maxima.
It's a BMW 3 series fin.
Last edited by scrui; 05-23-2008 at 04:21 AM.
05-23-2008, 04:29 AM
#26
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Queens NY
Posts: 403
As for the Accord spoiler, I beleive this is a aftermarket spoiler made both for the Accord and Maxima.
I checked out the infiniti first, but it's a baby shark fin.
I guess it's one of those things were you need to see it in person.
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