Bad transmission? heres what I have noticed
09-11-2008, 06:46 AM
#82
09-12-2008, 05:03 AM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,531
I went to dealership, told them I wanted a tranny oil change, and I saw metal parts in the oil on the dipstick.
They checked it, test drove it, and they told me it wasnt worth it and the tranny was going to fail soon and they will replace it under my extended warranty when it fails. Uh.
It sometimes shifts hard or it holds for 1 second too long when upshifting, weird to explain, but it doesnt really behave that bad. How do they know its going to fail real soon? he said less than a year.
They checked it, test drove it, and they told me it wasnt worth it and the tranny was going to fail soon and they will replace it under my extended warranty when it fails. Uh.
It sometimes shifts hard or it holds for 1 second too long when upshifting, weird to explain, but it doesnt really behave that bad. How do they know its going to fail real soon? he said less than a year.
09-12-2008, 06:30 AM
#84
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Shore, NY
Posts: 819
Chris thank you so much for your help here. This topic is very important to me because I own a 05' SE with 80k on it. I drive cross country yearly and have my fluid changed every Dec. I requested my dealership to do the flulsh and not just the drain and change but they said my tranny was fine and it costs too much to flush. Now I really want to flush it out since I am holding on to the car for a few years at least. I hate bringing my car to places that are not the dealer so how should approach this to get the flush done?
09-12-2008, 12:23 PM
#85
Chris thank you so much for your help here. This topic is very important to me because I own a 05' SE with 80k on it. I drive cross country yearly and have my fluid changed every Dec. I requested my dealership to do the flulsh and not just the drain and change but they said my tranny was fine and it costs too much to flush. Now I really want to flush it out since I am holding on to the car for a few years at least. I hate bringing my car to places that are not the dealer so how should approach this to get the flush done?
09-12-2008, 01:35 PM
#86
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 2,761
I went to dealership, told them I wanted a tranny oil change, and I saw metal parts in the oil on the dipstick.
They checked it, test drove it, and they told me it wasnt worth it and the tranny was going to fail soon and they will replace it under my extended warranty when it fails. Uh.
It sometimes shifts hard or it holds for 1 second too long when upshifting, weird to explain, but it doesnt really behave that bad. How do they know its going to fail real soon? he said less than a year.
They checked it, test drove it, and they told me it wasnt worth it and the tranny was going to fail soon and they will replace it under my extended warranty when it fails. Uh.
It sometimes shifts hard or it holds for 1 second too long when upshifting, weird to explain, but it doesnt really behave that bad. How do they know its going to fail real soon? he said less than a year.
If you are still under 60k I'd try to have them do it now under the mfg warranty, why wait until it fails and potentially leaves you stuck somewhere?
09-12-2008, 07:50 PM
#87
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Shore, NY
Posts: 819
You might be over thinking the trans issue, you do lots of highway which means you have less stress on your car, if you are getting the car serviced at the recommended intervals just drive the car and don't worry, you want a full flush, why not just take it into the dealer and get it drained and refilled every 15k instead of 30k
09-13-2008, 05:26 PM
#88
09-13-2008, 08:19 PM
#89
Is there a problem with the tranny if you put it in D and the car jerks a little (as if it is trying to grab 1st)? When I put it in D, it does 3-4 quick jerks (been doing this since 20k) and I really want to get mine replaced (if this is a symptom) before I hit 60k and I'm at 55k now. Also, in the cold it shifts HARD. We took it into dealer around 20k miles for all of this and "oh nothing wrong" b/s scam. What do you all think?
09-14-2008, 04:04 AM
#90
Is there a problem with the tranny if you put it in D and the car jerks a little (as if it is trying to grab 1st)? When I put it in D, it does 3-4 quick jerks (been doing this since 20k) and I really want to get mine replaced (if this is a symptom) before I hit 60k and I'm at 55k now. Also, in the cold it shifts HARD. We took it into dealer around 20k miles for all of this and "oh nothing wrong" b/s scam. What do you all think?
09-14-2008, 12:15 PM
#91
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Darien,IL
Posts: 47
Here is the troubles with my 2004 maxima SE. I bought the car with 114K miles for dirt cheap with a bad trans. Replaced the trans at shop that specializes in transmission work called “Superior Transmissions". The car is still not running right since the rebuild. Drove it around for 5K to see if it get any better but it has not. Since I have warranty from them for 12K miles or 12 months I went in to complain. Here are some the issues.
1. The car never shifts below 2100rpms in 1-2-3 no matter how little gas I give it always goes up to that rpm. This high rpms shifting point are annoying in traffic situations because the shifts are not smooth due to the car not really accelerating but the rpms being this high to shift.
2. I feel the gears downshifting when coming to a stop. I can also see the rpms bouncing around.
3. Sometimes while driving I let off the gas for a bit slowing down and then it give just a bit of gas and the car picks too low of a gear then goes up to 3K and at that point shifts up a gear.
4. Sometimes when I give it gas lets say about 70% enough for a downshift it never does a downshift, but tries to accelerate in the same gear.
So I told this to the shop that did the trans and they are telling me that this is most likely a electrical issue. They said it is hard to diagnose this unless the car has a check engine light on ( mine does not) then it would tell them exactly which electrical component is causing this. I left them the car this weekend but I doubt they will find anything. Does anyone know what could be causing this ? could it be because they did not reprogram the TCM after the rebuild? Should I try to go to the dealership to see if they can find the problem? I don't understand how a shop that only deals with trans problems can't find the problem. I really like the car but driving with a trans like this is really not enjoyable.
1. The car never shifts below 2100rpms in 1-2-3 no matter how little gas I give it always goes up to that rpm. This high rpms shifting point are annoying in traffic situations because the shifts are not smooth due to the car not really accelerating but the rpms being this high to shift.
2. I feel the gears downshifting when coming to a stop. I can also see the rpms bouncing around.
3. Sometimes while driving I let off the gas for a bit slowing down and then it give just a bit of gas and the car picks too low of a gear then goes up to 3K and at that point shifts up a gear.
4. Sometimes when I give it gas lets say about 70% enough for a downshift it never does a downshift, but tries to accelerate in the same gear.
So I told this to the shop that did the trans and they are telling me that this is most likely a electrical issue. They said it is hard to diagnose this unless the car has a check engine light on ( mine does not) then it would tell them exactly which electrical component is causing this. I left them the car this weekend but I doubt they will find anything. Does anyone know what could be causing this ? could it be because they did not reprogram the TCM after the rebuild? Should I try to go to the dealership to see if they can find the problem? I don't understand how a shop that only deals with trans problems can't find the problem. I really like the car but driving with a trans like this is really not enjoyable.
Last edited by hey11101; 09-14-2008 at 07:06 PM.
09-14-2008, 04:16 PM
#92
^^
If you car had the 5-speed auto, then after replacing it, you should have gone to the dealer to initialize the TCU again. There is a TSB for this (NTB08-064a).
Here is some info
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: If initialization is not performed, the shift feel may be more pronounced after
either of the above services.
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission (A/T) and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: The procedure is not necessary when installing a new TCM.
1. Connect CONSULT-II to the vehicle and turn the ignition ON.
2. Navigate the CONSULT screens to A/T.
3. Make sure the shift selector is in P.
4. Select WORK SUPPORT and than INITIALIZATION.
• Initialization is complete.
5. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect CONSULT.
NOTE: After INITIALIZATION, the TCM will, over time, optimize the shift quality (self
learning). The learning phase may vary in duration, depending on the driver’s habits.
The more often the vehicle is driven through all the gears in various conditions (light
acceleration, sportier driving, coasting), the faster the TCM will accumulate data.
Hope it helps.
If you car had the 5-speed auto, then after replacing it, you should have gone to the dealer to initialize the TCU again. There is a TSB for this (NTB08-064a).
Here is some info
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: If initialization is not performed, the shift feel may be more pronounced after
either of the above services.
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission (A/T) and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: The procedure is not necessary when installing a new TCM.
1. Connect CONSULT-II to the vehicle and turn the ignition ON.
2. Navigate the CONSULT screens to A/T.
3. Make sure the shift selector is in P.
4. Select WORK SUPPORT and than INITIALIZATION.
• Initialization is complete.
5. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect CONSULT.
NOTE: After INITIALIZATION, the TCM will, over time, optimize the shift quality (self
learning). The learning phase may vary in duration, depending on the driver’s habits.
The more often the vehicle is driven through all the gears in various conditions (light
acceleration, sportier driving, coasting), the faster the TCM will accumulate data.
Hope it helps.
09-15-2008, 10:56 AM
#94
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 187
Okay, my SES light came on last Friday while at a stop light. When I started driving, the car felt like it did not want to go....even though the RPM's were climbling. Later, I got on the highway and no problem.
Once I got to work, I put the car in park and there was a loud clunk and a jerk. I put it in Reverse and the same thing. I pretty much knew it was my tranny b/c this is a replacement I had put in by the dealership in March 07.
I take my car to Advance Auto to get a reading and it comes up P7044 (Torque Converter Intermittent).
This morning I made an appointment with Nissan to look at it.......only thing, when I cranked it up this morning the SES was not on, so I decided to go ahead and drive into work b/c I knew Nissan would say nothing was wrong with the car and I would just be waisting my time. Also, the problems are not there anymore as far as the clunking noise. I'm pretty sure my car didn't fix itself but does Nissan honor codes that were read at other shops?
I have ~18k on this replacement transmission.
Once I got to work, I put the car in park and there was a loud clunk and a jerk. I put it in Reverse and the same thing. I pretty much knew it was my tranny b/c this is a replacement I had put in by the dealership in March 07.
I take my car to Advance Auto to get a reading and it comes up P7044 (Torque Converter Intermittent).
This morning I made an appointment with Nissan to look at it.......only thing, when I cranked it up this morning the SES was not on, so I decided to go ahead and drive into work b/c I knew Nissan would say nothing was wrong with the car and I would just be waisting my time. Also, the problems are not there anymore as far as the clunking noise. I'm pretty sure my car didn't fix itself but does Nissan honor codes that were read at other shops?
I have ~18k on this replacement transmission.
09-15-2008, 11:14 AM
#95
Dealers love taking advantage of customers and definitely hate to have to replace a tranny.
Today, when I was going from Reverse to Drive, the transmission hit so hard it honestly felt like I hit a pothole. I definitely think my tranny is going from the slippage going into D and all of the other B/S I've been experiencing. I will drive a different car if they want to "take their time" and try to push me past 60k miles. Anyone experience this?
Today, when I was going from Reverse to Drive, the transmission hit so hard it honestly felt like I hit a pothole. I definitely think my tranny is going from the slippage going into D and all of the other B/S I've been experiencing. I will drive a different car if they want to "take their time" and try to push me past 60k miles. Anyone experience this?
09-17-2008, 07:58 AM
#98
Thats crazy.. just like oil , trans fluid breaks down and turns acidic. FLUSHING should not be done if you have never touched it before... that is the correct statement.
09-18-2008, 12:58 PM
#99
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,269
http://www.nissanusa.com/pdf/owning/...ance_Guide.pdf
On service schedules 1 and 2, Nissan only recommends an inspection o f the transmission fluid, all the way through 120,000 miles. The "premium" schedule has you change it, but IMO i think its pissing money away unless you tow or drive in extreme conditions. So its not really crazy that at 90k I havent.
On service schedules 1 and 2, Nissan only recommends an inspection o f the transmission fluid, all the way through 120,000 miles. The "premium" schedule has you change it, but IMO i think its pissing money away unless you tow or drive in extreme conditions. So its not really crazy that at 90k I havent.
Last edited by 04BlackMaxx; 09-18-2008 at 01:08 PM.
09-18-2008, 04:34 PM
#100
^^
If you car had the 5-speed auto, then after replacing it, you should have gone to the dealer to initialize the TCU again. There is a TSB for this (NTB08-064a).
Here is some info
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: If initialization is not performed, the shift feel may be more pronounced after
either of the above services.
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission (A/T) and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: The procedure is not necessary when installing a new TCM.
1. Connect CONSULT-II to the vehicle and turn the ignition ON.
2. Navigate the CONSULT screens to A/T.
3. Make sure the shift selector is in P.
4. Select WORK SUPPORT and than INITIALIZATION.
• Initialization is complete.
5. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect CONSULT.
NOTE: After INITIALIZATION, the TCM will, over time, optimize the shift quality (self
learning). The learning phase may vary in duration, depending on the driver’s habits.
The more often the vehicle is driven through all the gears in various conditions (light
acceleration, sportier driving, coasting), the faster the TCM will accumulate data.
Hope it helps.
If you car had the 5-speed auto, then after replacing it, you should have gone to the dealer to initialize the TCU again. There is a TSB for this (NTB08-064a).
Here is some info
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: If initialization is not performed, the shift feel may be more pronounced after
either of the above services.
5 Speed A/T equipped vehicles:
The TCM needs to be initialized when:
• Replacing the Automatic Transmission (A/T) and not the TCM
• Installing / swapping a TCM from another vehicle
NOTE: The procedure is not necessary when installing a new TCM.
1. Connect CONSULT-II to the vehicle and turn the ignition ON.
2. Navigate the CONSULT screens to A/T.
3. Make sure the shift selector is in P.
4. Select WORK SUPPORT and than INITIALIZATION.
• Initialization is complete.
5. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect CONSULT.
NOTE: After INITIALIZATION, the TCM will, over time, optimize the shift quality (self
learning). The learning phase may vary in duration, depending on the driver’s habits.
The more often the vehicle is driven through all the gears in various conditions (light
acceleration, sportier driving, coasting), the faster the TCM will accumulate data.
Hope it helps.
09-18-2008, 04:36 PM
#101
http://www.nissanusa.com/pdf/owning/...ance_Guide.pdf
On service schedules 1 and 2, Nissan only recommends an inspection o f the transmission fluid, all the way through 120,000 miles. The "premium" schedule has you change it, but IMO i think its pissing money away unless you tow or drive in extreme conditions. So its not really crazy that at 90k I havent.
On service schedules 1 and 2, Nissan only recommends an inspection o f the transmission fluid, all the way through 120,000 miles. The "premium" schedule has you change it, but IMO i think its pissing money away unless you tow or drive in extreme conditions. So its not really crazy that at 90k I havent.
lol believe what you will my friend. I only work in the dealership
what do I know?
09-19-2008, 04:55 PM
#102
http://www.nissanusa.com/pdf/owning/...ance_Guide.pdf
On service schedules 1 and 2, Nissan only recommends an inspection o f the transmission fluid, all the way through 120,000 miles. The "premium" schedule has you change it, but IMO i think its pissing money away unless you tow or drive in extreme conditions. So its not really crazy that at 90k I havent.
On service schedules 1 and 2, Nissan only recommends an inspection o f the transmission fluid, all the way through 120,000 miles. The "premium" schedule has you change it, but IMO i think its pissing money away unless you tow or drive in extreme conditions. So its not really crazy that at 90k I havent.
11-10-2010, 02:15 PM
#103
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 1
Transmission
Funny. My 2005 Maxima is acting up. Called my nissan service center to have fluid changed and he said it can't. 6th gen Maximas has a closed transmission with no filter. Say's only way to drain fluid is to drain 2qts. Drive around block and drain remaining qts. Say transmission in Maintenance free. Selling Car. Refuse to pay for new transmission.
11-10-2010, 04:11 PM
#104
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Santa Ana, CA
Posts: 420
Funny. My 2005 Maxima is acting up. Called my nissan service center to have fluid changed and he said it can't. 6th gen Maximas has a closed transmission with no filter. Say's only way to drain fluid is to drain 2qts. Drive around block and drain remaining qts. Say transmission in Maintenance free. Selling Car. Refuse to pay for new transmission.
whaaa?? have u tried calling another dealer?? =/ how much sellin for?
11-21-2010, 12:17 PM
#110
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Albert Lea, MN
Posts: 78
If I wasn't a newbie, I would have started my own thread. At least my questions are somewhat related to the original post.
On Thursday, I traded in my 2000 Max for an '08 Max SE. It has 48300 miles. The trans has a wee bit of delayed engagement going from reverse to drive, even after warmed up. There are no other shifting issues whatsoever (harsh shifting, banging, etc.).....it's my only complaint with the trans.
I checked the fluid level (transmission was hot) and it was full, but the fluid is dark, so I plan to change it (or have the selling dealer do it at N/C). It smells slightly burnt, not pungent, though...
I' m asking others to chime in with their similar experiences WRT the CVT......is this the nature of the beast for this delayed engagement? Opinions?
Thanks....BTW, here's a pic of the car.
On Thursday, I traded in my 2000 Max for an '08 Max SE. It has 48300 miles. The trans has a wee bit of delayed engagement going from reverse to drive, even after warmed up. There are no other shifting issues whatsoever (harsh shifting, banging, etc.).....it's my only complaint with the trans.
I checked the fluid level (transmission was hot) and it was full, but the fluid is dark, so I plan to change it (or have the selling dealer do it at N/C). It smells slightly burnt, not pungent, though...
I' m asking others to chime in with their similar experiences WRT the CVT......is this the nature of the beast for this delayed engagement? Opinions?
Thanks....BTW, here's a pic of the car.
11-29-2010, 01:07 PM
#112
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MISSION
Posts: 26
Good right up.thanx!
I have an 04 and since i bought it the transmission hits hard when going from 1-2.So maybe changing the oil might help.It just started having issiues when it goes into reverse.Like it pauses and then grabs the gear hard, kinda like sliping.Lost on this one!
I have an 04 and since i bought it the transmission hits hard when going from 1-2.So maybe changing the oil might help.It just started having issiues when it goes into reverse.Like it pauses and then grabs the gear hard, kinda like sliping.Lost on this one!
Last edited by texas6; 11-29-2010 at 01:13 PM.
11-30-2010, 05:44 AM
#113
If I wasn't a newbie, I would have started my own thread. At least my questions are somewhat related to the original post.
On Thursday, I traded in my 2000 Max for an '08 Max SE. It has 48300 miles. The trans has a wee bit of delayed engagement going from reverse to drive, even after warmed up. There are no other shifting issues whatsoever (harsh shifting, banging, etc.).....it's my only complaint with the trans.
I checked the fluid level (transmission was hot) and it was full, but the fluid is dark, so I plan to change it (or have the selling dealer do it at N/C). It smells slightly burnt, not pungent, though...
I' m asking others to chime in with their similar experiences WRT the CVT......is this the nature of the beast for this delayed engagement? Opinions?
Thanks....BTW, here's a pic of the car.
On Thursday, I traded in my 2000 Max for an '08 Max SE. It has 48300 miles. The trans has a wee bit of delayed engagement going from reverse to drive, even after warmed up. There are no other shifting issues whatsoever (harsh shifting, banging, etc.).....it's my only complaint with the trans.
I checked the fluid level (transmission was hot) and it was full, but the fluid is dark, so I plan to change it (or have the selling dealer do it at N/C). It smells slightly burnt, not pungent, though...
I' m asking others to chime in with their similar experiences WRT the CVT......is this the nature of the beast for this delayed engagement? Opinions?
Thanks....BTW, here's a pic of the car.
11-30-2010, 10:51 AM
#114
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 497
Yeah, my trans does the same ref to the time it takes to engage.
As to the color of your fluid, my fluid was "clear" right up to when I changed it out at 65000m. I would change that garbage out if you think it is cooked, or at least have the dealer put it in writing that it is acceptable to leave in. You don't want to involuntarily void your trans warranty by failing to have it serviced.
As to the color of your fluid, my fluid was "clear" right up to when I changed it out at 65000m. I would change that garbage out if you think it is cooked, or at least have the dealer put it in writing that it is acceptable to leave in. You don't want to involuntarily void your trans warranty by failing to have it serviced.
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