Propa Teknique

I began having issues starting my car. It first happened Monday. I drove on a trip to Dallas which is where I am now and decided to get some breakfast. When I got back in the car, I started and it kept making that sound it makes when it just won't start. I turned it off, waited five minutes and tried again and that still didnt work.

Everything inside came on (radio, speedometer, lights, info screen) but it just wouldn't start. I waited another five minutes and to my amazement it finally started. I let it run for a while and got out to see if the engine was making any strange noises--it wasn't. The night before I had filled up and gotten a gas treatment being I had driven for so long.

Tuesday I had no problems whatsoever! This morning I went to get breakfast and when I got back in the car it did the same thing. This time it took a little longer. I changed the batter at the beginning of the year so there shouldn't be any problems with that. I just don't want to get back on the road to head home tomorrow and have to stop and it doesn't come on at all.

Anyone know what this could be or what I need to do? When it comes to engines, I'm truly a novice, but do you guys/gals think it would be the starter or alternator?

JD05

You said the car runs fine when it starts but sometimes it doesn't start? How many miles are on the car??? It sounds like your fuel pump might be going bad ....sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.I had a truck that did that and the fuel pump was the culprit it worked when it wanted to. Replaced the pump and there was no more problems. Being with the maxima our cars have so many sensors it could be anything you might have to have it hook up to get a code on it.

Propa Teknique

Yes it does run fine when it does start but I have been having intermittent issues since Monday where it wouldn't start at all. I have 115,000 miles on it and this is the first time it did that. How and where do I hook it up at to find a code?

JD05

I believe auto zone does it for free if you don't have a auto zone where you live call some of the auto parts places to see if they can pull up a code on you car with there computer. Dealer will do it but might charge you depends.I'm not sure where the plug is for you to hook up to a scanner which if there is any problems with the car it will tell you...I never have had to do that yet,but if you like ill go look on the car to see where its at do you have a scanner to check the codes on your car?.

Propa Teknique

I dont have a scanner so you don't have to worry about looking. I know Auto Zone only connects the computer to your car if you have the "Check Engine" light on. I may have to just go to the dealer and ask them to do it. It shouldnt cost that much to simply check (I hope) Thanks though. Hopefully it doesnt give me a problem until after I get home from my trip. Thanks so much!

JD05

If your car runs fine when it does start then you shouldn't have any problems getting home.....if it doesn't start at all than well you know the rest. I believe the dealer only charges you an hour labor to check out the car.Just make sure your not over heating or lack of oil pressure, lack of oil pressure you would probably hear anyhow when its running it would be very noisy over heating usually the car goes in limp mode which would allow you to drive it but slow and the temp gauge would show that anyhow.I wish they would put oil pressure gauges in all the cars American car makers are good for that. Good Luck you should have no problem getting home if the car runs fine once it starts you never said that the car quits after its running.

joecurr

Yeah, I had the same issue long time ago, except I had the check engine light on. My car wouldn't start correctly if I tried to start it at least half an hour after turning the car off. I would have to hold the key in the start ignition position until the engine started, which would take around 10-15 seconds. The dealership first changed the fuel pump, and they said that partially fixed the problem. My precats were shot, which is probably what the check engine light was for. After they changed those my car started normally. Since you don't have the check engine light, I also think it's your fuel pump.

Propa Teknique

I went to Pepboys yesterday and told them about the problem. There was a mechanic there getting parts and he overheard and said that it could be the crank shaft position sensor (whatever that is). He said that whenever that part got too hot it would stop the car from starting and that he had seen that happen before in a Maxima. He said I would have to let it cool and then it would start correctly. The Pepboys employee said that since my Check Engline light didn't come on they couldn't do any diagnostics and they would have to replicate the problem in order to fix something. I tried so hard to get it to not start, but EVERYTIME (15 times total) it started up just fine. I don't understand why it's doing that.

Thus far the problem could be:

--Fuel Pump
--Fuel Filter
--Crank Shaft Position Sensor

Do you think it could be a starter/alternator issue or an electrical short? Is that even possible with the sort of problem I"m having?

Apollos2

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like it might be the crank shaft position sensor.

Domestic Violence

my similar problem was the MAF sensor

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

When you say it won't start, does it crank and crank, but it won't fire? Or, do you turn the key and get only a click? Or, do you turn the key and get nothing at all? You said it keeps making that sound "that it makes when it just won't start"... what does that mean?

Domestic Violence

about a year ago, i had an intermittent no-start problem. the car would crank but would not fire up. when it did do it, it would eventually start- and one time it ran so bad, i pulled over (NO power, hesitation). the last time it did it, i unplugged the mass airflow sensor (knowing id get an SES light) and it started right up- and ran fine.

i replaced the MAF sensor and have never encountered the problem again.

Propa Teknique

I'm sorry it continues to crank but won't fire up. Thus far it hasn't given me any problems. I drove for 6.5 hours from Dallas back home and when I got home I turned it off then turned it back on. It hesitated for a second but then fired and came on. I don't understand why it's so intermittent but it may be the crank shaft positioner thingamajig. I just wan't to get this fixed because I don't want it to just stop on me.

Propa Teknique

You really think so? Could it possibly be ANYTHING else??

graphikzking

I also got a weird No Start problem this morning.

Background: Owned the 1998 Maxima for 4 years. First got the car - trouble turning over. Changed the battery and has been fine for 3+ years.

Drove car home from work on Friday and was fine. Big rain Storm on Sunday. Monday morning car wouldn't start.

Tried to start. Started sputtered and stalled all within like 3 seconds. So I tried to start again and was really long slow turns. (Almost like battery was dying, but didn't kick over.)

Shut off the key, go to the garage to get the charger pack. Come back and attempt it again (without even hooking up the starter pack, and battery seemed fine - tried to turn over quickly (like normal) but wouldn't kick over.

So I left the key on the "on" position, trying to like prime the fuel pump (I know my sisters 2005 sentra has to do this to start). Well it started up and ran fine.

I leave it run for a few minutes and shut it off to test it again. It cranks a bunch of times (6-8 seconds) and finally catches and starts.

Think this could be the same problem as the OP?

OP have you tried the same things, or have the same symptoms as mine?

Nellanaesp

My 06 did something similar. I was running it at idle for about 30 mintues while I changed the radio out (It was hot as hell outside), and I turned it off, went inside for 5 minutes, came back out, and when I turned it on, it sputtered, the engine was shaking pretty badly, and it turned itself off. IT did this 4 or 5 times, then it returned to normal. That was a month ago, and it hasn't happened since.

graphikzking

Yep weird. I was praying that the car would be ok. I drove it into work this morning. At lunch started up fine. Cranked 2-3 times really quick and started right up.

Who knows, maybe it was just sleeping and i woke her up and she wasn't ready to be awake yet. I did throw some seafoam in the gas just in case there was some water in there somewhere.

Propa Teknique

This is so crazy to me. All these starting problems stem from so many different issues. It's like no one can pinpoint where exactly this is coming from. The dealer can't do any diagnostics to be sure since the check engine light isn't on but I don't understand why it's so hit and miss!

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

Take it to Nissan and have them troubleshoot it for you...at this point it would be $100 well spent.

Propa Teknique

I think you're right Hawaii. Do they charge a flat rate of 100.00 for diagnostics or is it extra with labor?

graphikzking

I'm not a master mechanic or anything, but I highly doubt without a check engine light that a Nissan Dealer can tell exactly what happened to your car.

I mean, there may be a data log somewhere that tells something, but I don't think the dealer would get into that and determine what occurred.

I know if they hooked it up to a OBD-2 Scanner while the car is running they can tell fuel trims etc but not what occurred a few days in the past and now seems to be rectified.

Lastly, I HIGHLY doubt the dealer would do anything for $100. Maybe check the check engine light but if your going to pay for that, why not just go to autozone and have them do it for free. Or buy a scanguage and check your TPS, fuel, oil etc yourself?

jsieben

I heard of a similar problem, but it was the fuel pump that drooled in the cold. A quick replacement of the fuel pump and it was back up and pumping again.

HTH,
Jeff

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

I had a hard start issue with my Taurus a few years back. It would crank and crank, but it would not fire. It only did this when the engine was warm. When it was cold, it would start right up. I figured it was the fuel pump. Before I dropped the tank in my driveway, I wanted to be sure that's what the issue was. I took it to Ford, and told them what the problem was. They had the car for a couple of days, and when they called me a few days later, they confirmed that the fuel pump was bad. The diagnostic fee was just under $100, if I had them fix it, then they would roll the fee into the repair cost...which was $700!
I fixed it myself in my driveway, it cost me $150 for the fuel pump, and 4 hours of my time...plus the $100 diagnostic fee.

I never said the dealer could tell him what happened to his car a couple days ago. I said if he is still having an intermittent hard start issue, take it to the dealer so they can diagnose the problem. A bad fuel pump is not going to throw a code, so the OBD-2 scanner is irrelevant.

Lastly...you can HIGHLY doubt whatever you want, a diagnostic fee at a dealership is right around $100. Diagnostic fee does not mean that they have to hook it up to a machine...it means that they are trying to DIAGNOSE the problem you are having.

To the OP, call your dealership, and tell them the problem. Ask them how much to troubleshoot the issue. Then you can make the decision whether you want to take it to them, or not. Your cheapest repair would be the cam position sensor. The fuel pump, and the mass air sensor will not be cheap. The fuel pump is much easier in our cars, as you can access it through the rear floor under the seat...you no longer have to drop the tank. Sooooo, you can randomly start replacing parts and hope you hit on the right one, or you can take it to the dealership. Good luck!

Propa Teknique

Good on ya mate! I think I'll take your advice and go ahead and bring it in to the dealership and see if they can find something. Lately, though, it has been running very well. It's always hot down here in Louisiana but in the summer we normally get up to 102-111 degrees but I've had Xima for 4 years and havent encountered this until I went to Dallas last week. I still it could be either the fact that I was driving on empty or the fuel pump but I'll let the experts decide. Thank you so much for the insight!!

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

I didn't realize you had been driving on empty. The fuel in the tank is what lubricates and cools the fuel pump. I always head for a gas station when I get JUST under 1/4 tank. My wife is notorious for not putting gas in the car until it is on fumes...hence why I ended up putting a fuel pump in my Taurus!

BlackSpeed

iTrader: (1)

I just had the same issue and it was embarrassing. Car hard to start while warm. Stop to get gas - Car wouldn't start. Stop for lunch, car wouldn't start. Changed both CAM shaft position sensors - Viola !!! Haven't had the issue since. I fell for the fuel pump replacement suggestion and now I have an extra fuel pump :-(.. The Dealer was of no help. Their motto is "No Code, No Problem"..

Propa Teknique

****UPDATE****

Yesterday I took the car to the dealership and told them about the problem. I mentioned to Charles about the crankshaft issue and then about my ABS issue and about my AC not blowing cold. So around 4 he called me back and proceeded to tell me about everything that was wrong with the car. I was shocked when he told me all the things that I needed to do and that total cost to repair everything would be 2100 dollars which was crazy since I only owe 2000 on it!!

Anyway, the issue was the cam/crank shaft sensors which was why the car wouldn't start when the part got hot. Secondly my driver side rear ABS sensor was just shot and I had a broken exhaust hanger along with holes in my upper radiator hose, and a leak in my AC line. He also stated I would need to do a flush for my coolant and my transmission fluid. I am just wondering if I need to go through them to get all this replaced or should I seek elsewhere for labor and just buy the parts. I'm kind of a novice at this so if anyone can help as far as getting parts that would be much appreciated. He told me that it's better to do it with Nissan Certified Technicians and Original Equipment Parts. I went to the Courtesy site and searched for parts but there are two or three different Crank and Cam shafts showing and I dont know which ones would fit my 04 SE. Charles, the guy that helped me at Nissan sent me an email highlighting things that needed to be done but he didnt provide any part numbers in the email to search outside of the dealership.

I need to find:

Camshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Upper & Lower Radiator Hose
A/C Hose because I have a leak in my line
Exhaust hanger

What do you guys/gals think???

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

Crankshaft position sensors should be fairly easy to replace.
Upper/Lower radiator hoses are super easy to replace
A/C Hose should be easy to replace, you will need to go get your A/C charged when you're done.
Exhaust hanger...I would pay any more than $20 for a muffler shop to tac it back up.

In short...I wouldn't have the Nissan dealer do ANY of these repairs unless they are under warranty. I would think INCLUDING the cost of the A/C charge, you shouldn't be any more than $300-$500 dollars MAX.

Propa Teknique

Thanks Hawaii!! I ended up telling Nissan to do the CAM/Crank shaft Sensors because they came with a 3yr warranty and he bumped the price down to 350 with the diagnostic check. I couldn't find the right parts for those anyway. As far as everything else, I will look elsewhere. I found some Multi-rib belts for my drive belts on the car and then I went online to Ebay and found some OBX upper and lower radiator belts. I need to find an A/C hose though, any idea where I can get that??

Also, do I have to do a transmission flush, radiator flush, and A/C charge at the dealership??

bcampbe7

iTrader: (1)

You don't HAVE to do anything at the dealership. Any reputable repair shop can do all that work if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

That being said, I would use Nissan CVT oil (you don't have a CVT in your 2004 though) or transmission oil when doing a fluid change or flush. You can buy it at Nissan and take it to the shop doing the work.

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

Crankshaft position sensor...approximately $50-$60
Lower radiator hose...approximately $10
Upper radiator hose...approximately $10
Serpentine belts...approximately $10 each...you need 2
A/C coolant hose...approximately $160

The A/C line is your big expense here...anything related to A/C is going to cost you. All of these parts were found online at RockAuto.com. I've ordered from them all the time, and they have great prices and service. If you want to get anything from them, poke around the internet, there are always 5% coupon codes floating around for them. There are also some stickies over on my6thgen.org on how to fill/flush and fill your trans.

At this point, I'm sure you into Nissan for $100-$125 for the diagnostic fee, add the $50-$60 each for the cam position sensor, and figure they are adding in another $125-$150 for labor.

6.5affiliate

DO NOT USE CVT OIL IN AN AUTOMATIC!

bcampbe7

iTrader: (1)

Good point 6.5! I hope my post didn't indicate that I was suggesting that.

filipinowise

Hey bro I'm having a similar issue, I believe my starter is going bad, what was your problem with your car?

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

If the engine is cranking, but will not fire, then it is NOT the starter. The starters job is to crank the engine. If the engine WILL NOT crank, or starts but you still hear the starter cranking, then you could have a bad starter.

Propa Teknique

Update: I ended up getting Nissan to fix the cam/crank sensors and it was a total of 350 for the parts/labor/diagnostic so I was pretty satisfied and I don't have the issue anymore. In fact, the car starts better than it did before the problem. There is a 3 year warranty on the sensors so that's a good thing. I found a Nissan Authorized Parts Dealer on Ebay that sells all the other parts and they are priced very well so I'll go through them. If anyone has this issue be sure to look at your sensors even if you check engine light doesn't come on. Mine didn't when this happened!

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

I'm glad you got it all worked out. Just a note about Ebay...the sellers on Ebay can claim "Authorized" all day long. I've found that just about anything you buy on Ebay will not be warranteed by the manufacturer. If there is any type of warranty, it is probably offered through the seller, NOT the manufacturer. Most manufacturers specifically state in their warranty terms that any Ebay purchases either void, or are not eligible for warranty claims. If the warranty is through the seller, I'd steer clear, as that could turn into a very large nightmare for you. I would be sure to check with the manufacturer on anything you plan to buy through Ebay.

Propa Teknique

Thanks for the info! Should I still buy them though? I did speak with the dealership after getting the part numbers for both the radiator hoses but I don't know if I should buy through Ebay now since you said that! I'm not too concerned about warranty since the total I'm paying is less than 40 bucks but I just wanted to make sure that I'm getting a Nissan Part. It does show the picture with the Nissan sticker on it though. What do you think Hawaii??

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

Depending on what I'm getting, I don't get too wrapped up anymore in whether I'm getting OEM Nissan parts, or not. If I need a radiator hose, or a serpentine belt, I'll go to Autozone and get the best brand they offer. As far as Ebay goes, I've bought a LOT of stuff off of Ebay. If I'm buying something where I feel I need the warranty, I buy elsewhere. If warranty is not a concern for me...Ebay here I come! One of the main factors for me is price...if Ebay is cheap enough, then I don't worry about the warranty. A radiator hose is something where I wouldn't get hung up on whether or not it has a warranty. You should also check with RockAuto, I know their prices are great, and they stand behind all of their stuff also. You should be able to get both hoses shipped for around $30 bucks. There are also 5% off coupon codes all over the internet for RockAuto. If Rockauto is even CLOSE to Ebay pricing, I'd buy from RockAuto all day long.

Propa Teknique

Cool beans! That's where I got my hoses from! RockAuto does rock! 35.00 shipped! Thanks a bunch! Now all I need to get to complete all the repairs and maintenance are the ABS sensor and high pressure AC Hose!