2004 SE 6M
#1
2004 SE 6M
Whats up members.
2004 se 6spd 94000miles 18" wheels some concers need advice.
Every time the clutch is pressed down or up it makes a loud noise (sounds like old wood cracking) any ideas ?
In 1st or 2nd gear I let off the gas pedel quick and it kind of chirps the engine and I can hear like a click sound every time I do that. ?
Every time I go over a pothole or just drive downtown it sounds like my suspension is ringing any wheel the falls into a hole on the road it makes a loud sound like beer bottles hitting each other.?
Any cold morning the cd starts skiping it does the on and off for about 10- 15 mins .?
Thanx all 4dsc
2004 se 6spd 94000miles 18" wheels some concers need advice.
Every time the clutch is pressed down or up it makes a loud noise (sounds like old wood cracking) any ideas ?
In 1st or 2nd gear I let off the gas pedel quick and it kind of chirps the engine and I can hear like a click sound every time I do that. ?
Every time I go over a pothole or just drive downtown it sounds like my suspension is ringing any wheel the falls into a hole on the road it makes a loud sound like beer bottles hitting each other.?
Any cold morning the cd starts skiping it does the on and off for about 10- 15 mins .?
Thanx all 4dsc
#2
Oh yes, the creaking sound when you engage/dis-engage the clutch pedal. Had the same issue with my 06 (59000 miles) in the summer. The clutch was real stiff as well. This progressed to sometimes the clutch pedal not fully coming back up. Had a look at the clutch pedal asssembly and found a crack in the medal. Replaced the clutch pedal unit - the new unit had a spot weld break 3 days later. Thought it was just a faulty unit. Replaced the new unit with a newer unit. It began to creak right away. Finally had my independent tech pull the transmission. The throw-out bearing was completely dry and extremely noisy, and seemed to be binding, and the clutch itself was almost completely worn. New clutch seems to function properly now.
Now the intertesting part. The engine was replaced under waranty at 59000 miles by Nissan this June. The Nissan tech obviously didn't even look at the clutch disc or bearing when the new engine went in. However, on the work order he documented the 'stiff clutch'. As well, the car started to grind sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd quickly.
I took the car back to Nissan last week complaining about grinding, and found out yesterday that Nissan is now going to put in a new transmission under waranty even though my waranty has expired. I am also going after Nissan for the $600 in labour I paid my independent tech to replace the clutch, as they should have looked at the bearing and disc when they replaced my engine.
Now the intertesting part. The engine was replaced under waranty at 59000 miles by Nissan this June. The Nissan tech obviously didn't even look at the clutch disc or bearing when the new engine went in. However, on the work order he documented the 'stiff clutch'. As well, the car started to grind sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd quickly.
I took the car back to Nissan last week complaining about grinding, and found out yesterday that Nissan is now going to put in a new transmission under waranty even though my waranty has expired. I am also going after Nissan for the $600 in labour I paid my independent tech to replace the clutch, as they should have looked at the bearing and disc when they replaced my engine.
Last edited by 240tomax; 09-23-2010 at 05:46 PM.
#3
^what? They're giving u a brand new trans (not reman'd?) and you're gonna make them pay you more money? No way no how should they re-imburse you for a clutch job done by your mechanic!! Its 100% possible the clutch wasn't worn low when the engine was changed, and your motor was warrantied a few hundred miles from it expiring?! So they're giving u a trans and a motor and you want more? Jeez, and they say the dealer does the raping
rant over, O/P- creaking noise when coming off gas is your electronic motor mounts, the stepper motor makes that noise to adjust position of mount for optimum engine positioning. Clutch noise is worn clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/cylinder-should be diagnosed on lift while clutch is operated. As should entire suspension be inspected, sounds like u have a joint worn somewhere (ball joint, tie rod end, etc..
rant over, O/P- creaking noise when coming off gas is your electronic motor mounts, the stepper motor makes that noise to adjust position of mount for optimum engine positioning. Clutch noise is worn clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/cylinder-should be diagnosed on lift while clutch is operated. As should entire suspension be inspected, sounds like u have a joint worn somewhere (ball joint, tie rod end, etc..
#4
[quote=MR2tech;7748248]^what? They're giving u a brand new trans (not reman'd?) and you're gonna make them pay you more money? No way no how should they re-imburse you for a clutch job done by your mechanic!! Its 100% possible the clutch wasn't worn low when the engine was changed, and your motor was warrantied a few hundred miles from it expiring?! So they're giving u a trans and a motor and you want more? Jeez, and they say the dealer does the raping
When they had the engine out, how hard would it have been to stick your fingers in and spin the throw-out bearing or to have a close look at the disc that was in the tech's hand. The disc didn't mysteriously become worn out 3000 miles after the engine job. If the delearship advertises superior service then they should provide superior service.
When they had the engine out, how hard would it have been to stick your fingers in and spin the throw-out bearing or to have a close look at the disc that was in the tech's hand. The disc didn't mysteriously become worn out 3000 miles after the engine job. If the delearship advertises superior service then they should provide superior service.
#5
Oh yes, the creaking sound when you engage/dis-engage the clutch pedal. Had the same issue with my 06 (59000 miles) in the summer. The clutch was real stiff as well. This progressed to sometimes the clutch pedal not fully coming back up. Had a look at the clutch pedal asssembly and found a crack in the medal. Replaced the clutch pedal unit - the new unit had a spot weld break 3 days later. Thought it was just a faulty unit. Replaced the new unit with a newer unit. It began to creak right away. Finally had my independent tech pull the transmission. The throw-out bearing was completely dry and extremely noisy, and seemed to be binding, and the clutch itself was almost completely worn. New clutch seems to function properly now.
Now the intertesting part. The engine was replaced under waranty at 59000 miles by Nissan this June. The Nissan tech obviously didn't even look at the clutch disc or bearing when the new engine went in. However, on the work order he documented the 'stiff clutch'. As well, the car started to grind sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd quickly.
I took the car back to Nissan last week complaining about grinding, and found out yesterday that Nissan is now going to put in a new transmission under waranty even though my waranty has expired. I am also going after Nissan for the $600 in labour I paid my independent tech to replace the clutch, as they should have looked at the bearing and disc when they replaced my engine.
Now the intertesting part. The engine was replaced under waranty at 59000 miles by Nissan this June. The Nissan tech obviously didn't even look at the clutch disc or bearing when the new engine went in. However, on the work order he documented the 'stiff clutch'. As well, the car started to grind sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd quickly.
I took the car back to Nissan last week complaining about grinding, and found out yesterday that Nissan is now going to put in a new transmission under waranty even though my waranty has expired. I am also going after Nissan for the $600 in labour I paid my independent tech to replace the clutch, as they should have looked at the bearing and disc when they replaced my engine.
Went to the dealer, As far as the clutch they said the the around the clutch pedal there is a bushing and a spring that are making the noise and said the I need to replace clutch pedal assembly. I think he quoted me around 200$. Anything like urs?
#6
The cost of the part was approx. $80 with an hour labour. However, the 2nd new pedal just had one of the spot welds break again yesterday as the pedal is getting stiff sometimes again. Something is binding. I am having the transmission replaced in two days and will want an answer to this issue.
Last edited by 240tomax; 09-28-2010 at 07:40 AM.
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