Hey all, planning to do this job one day, replacing all 3 timing chains/tensioners/guides. Yes, I have this startup rattle everyone is talking about but do not feel like paying over a grand to a dealer, and plan to tackle this gig myself.
As you may know, Nissan issued an updated TSB, mentioning a tool that holds a flywheel http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moo..._p_62551.html#

Question for those who actually performed this job, please- what is the exact location for this tool to be inserted, where the starter goes, or is there a place inside timing chain chamber to hold a cam sprocket or where?

thanks!

 

I did this job about 2 weeks ago for my vq35 altima. I bought that tool, and to install it you need to remove a cover plate to the side of the crankshaft pos sensor (flywheel side). the tool install in there and the bolt goes where the cover plate bolt go in.

let me know if I explained clearly...

 

Is Nissan charging 1,000 bucks to do the timing chain these days? Don't you have to pull the engine up a little?

 

no need to jack up or bring down the engine. Just support the engine in position while the engine mount is removed.

 

I'm having my friend do it at the dealer on a Saturday. He says he sees the tensioner problem all the time. Such crap that Nissan doesn't take fault and also with their ****ty transmissions.

 

Hey edjose, thanks, cover plate off, tool is on, crystal clear. do you happen to remember what needs to go to take timing cover off? Alternator, pass motor mount, valve covers yes/no? what else? thanks, man..

 

Amount for the job nissan, or not nissan will charge, will depend on what you need. it may be just main tensioner, or just a maing guide, or one or both secondary tensioners, or secondary guides, main chain stretched (very unlikely though), and so forth. In my opinion, while you or whoever performs the job and is "at it", so to speak, you better off replacing everything you see- water pump, all seals, all 3 chains (redesigned), and all 3 tensioners, and all 3 guides. In fact, there are 5 guides in total, I beleive, 2 of them are stationary (i.e. simply bolted to the body of timing chamber). Yes, it can be bunch of money. Just count the parts alone, looking at this diagram and start rolling your eyes. Mind you, prices for parts on this diagram from this particular supplier are discounted anywhere between 10 to 30%. nissan will charge you list price for everything plus probably at least 10 hours labor. I see more and more people on this forum dumping the car alltogether instead, which can be totally justified.

 

The website-link here is the bomb. Truly amazing..pics + parts numbers. Life is so much simpler now.

 

No problem, glad I could help.

No need to remove the intake manifold and valve cover. The purpose of the tool is to hold the crankshaft in place while you loosen and tighten to specs the bolts to the camshafts sprockets with the timing chain installed.

Well, you need to take the following major components:
-Belt tensioner for alternator, compressor, crankshaft.
-Coolant overflow tank.
-IDPM - black box that have all relays and fuses of the car.
-Alternator - To make this happen easier, you need to take the radiator out. It will give you the necessary clearance to remove it.
-PS pump (and its tensioner bracket)- The 14mm bolt on the rear side of the pump is real tight. I had to use a 12", 6" and 3" extension with 2 woble adapters (at the PS side) to remove the bolt. You will position the tool almost on the driver side, in front of the driveshaft. This will give you the necesary clearance to make leverage to loosen the bolt. move the pump to the side without disconecting the lines.
-Pass side motor mount - After removing the mount there is a stut bolted to the engine. You cannot take it off without lowering the engine, but is not necesary to remove it. There is enough clearance to get the timing cover out.
-Crankshaft pulley - Extremely tight, I used a 3 feet tube with a 1/2 inch breaker bar to loose that bolt. Pulley slides out easily (no need for a puller).
-Loosen the PS fluid reservoir and AC lines bracket on the strut tower, to get clearance to get the cover out.
-IVT covers (2)- follow the Serv. manual for the order on taking the bolts out.

Finally, in addition to the 22 bolts located in the front timing cover, you need to take out 2 bolts on the botom side. For this you need to remove the lower oil pan (10bolts) then you get access to remove those 2 bolts. To have an idea of what bolts you need to loosen, look at the front timing cover lower side, you see two round areas, follow the path down and those are the bolts you need to remove.

Take your time in cleaning the RTV from the timing cover and oil pan, this is very tedious but important for the sealing of the new RTV.

Follow the Service Manual on removing and installing the timing chains, its critical that the timing its perfect installing them back.
Replace every part specified in the TSB NTB07-042c.

Take your time doing this, It took me more than 24 hrs, spreaded in 2 weeks, in order to do this repair. Its very intensive, mainly to loose the bolts and fight with the tight clearances. Sometimes I had to take a couple of days of breaks to heal cuts in hands and arms and the pain from hitting some parts with my hands.

I believe this is most of what you need to do this repair, If you need further advise, PM me or write it here so others can benefit from this thread.