Defiant_Max04

iTrader: (1)

My car was experiencing the dreaded ABS problem that most people were facing. So, I read some other threads about the ABS problem (ABS kicks in under normal braking) and eventually took my car to the dealer for a diagnostic to see exactly what was wrong. They told me the front right and rear right sensors needed to be replaced. I replaced them and although the problem is fixed, when I drive the car for the first 15 seconds, I hear (what I believe to be) the pump turn on, which then causes the ABS light to come on and stay on. Really don't know what to do now. ANY suggestions would be much appreciated. I cannot believe so many people are having trouble with this issue (and all different solutions it seems like). Thank you.

HMAX08

OK so your car was fine and you read all the posts and decided to get it checked out (even though you had no symptoms) and the dealer said you need right front and rear correct? If the dealer replaced that part, take it back *****hh and be stern and have them fix it, take it for a test drive wiht the tech to show him whats happening. Maybe they didnt fix everything.

PS. I never go to the STEALERSHIP unless absolutely necessary. I believe your mistake happend when you took your car in for something that was not happening to you. I understand wanting to be preventive but unless you were having symptoms you really didnt need to take it in. But again we all want to be safe and I do understand preventive maintainence

now if you were having issues with the ABS, then my above rant is MOOT

Defiant_Max04

iTrader: (1)

I just reread my post and it wasn't clear at all..my bad! But, I was actually having ABS issues (it was coming on during normal braking situations), so I unplugged the ABS for about a week or two and took it to the dealer for a diagnostic. They told me what needed to be done (replace 2 sensors) and I had it done (not there because they wanted $700). Now, anytime I accelerate/go past 35, the ABS goes crazy for a few seconds, then the ABS light comes on. I just want this damn problem fixed..

HMAX08

OK I see, Lol. That is definitely not normal, I would go ahead and go back to the place you had them done and have them check it out. Definitely something is up. Good luck and keep us posted

Lsgun1

iTrader: (1)

The sensors are not the only thing that cause the failure. The failure happens because of water intrusion so corrosion builds up in the wheel bearing and on the inside of the knuckle causing failed/inaccurate readings.

md2k

I've had this problem with the last 2 vehicles i've owned (BMW 325i and 5th Gen Maxima). i had my mechanic disable the ABS. Its not an essential piece of equipment, although its a nice safety feature, its definitely NOT worth the money to fix it. It failed once, and it will continue to fail, and cost you money.

Icons04SilverMax

Your gonna have to take off the caliper, rotors, everything, pretty much get it down to the hub and clean the hell out of everything including the sensors... If that doesnt work. You might have F'd up the ABS actuator in the process when you disabled the ABS. I hope you didn't because that damn part is not cheap... Good luck..

shabnyc

whenever someone talk about ..Nissan 6th gen problem.. I can't stop laughing.. anyways. When i had that problem i disable my ABS by pulling Red ..10amp.. Fuse from the engine bay.. Right near the Alternator... When you disable from there i noticed your Speedometer stop working. I never figured our how to disable ABs without disabling the speedometer. However, as the part says speed sensor is the abs sensor...

--- or maybe there is other way to turn it off and still keep the speed meter working?
*****

I rather not drive with abs ...
Sorry to hear that . but good luck.

ubersl

One option would be to disconnect the front passenger side sensor itself. The connector somewhere between the engine and the washer fluid reservoir. The 100% proof solution it to remove the fusable link which is located between the engine and the battery in the fuse box. It's a red one that has 30 A, 30A and 50 A links. The 30 A ones are for ABS control module. You will need to cut them.

birdman84

Just had this problem myself with my 06. First time in, it was one sensor. brought it in again b/c it was still doing it, they said actuator was bad. brought it in a 3rd time, another sensor bad. 3 visits + $1300 = fixed brakes ;|

AntWaN

I had this problem also. It was the ABS Control Module. So retarded, my radiator fan would kick on when the car was not running and drain the battery. i bypassed it and all the dash gauges wouldnt work. I brought it in and it cost me 1500!!!! but i added an alignment and new tires so they gave me 200 off. so $1300 for the ABS.

04BlackMaxx

ahh memories...please read my thread '2004 abs is a POS'...or something like that. It was a proud moment in my ownership of this car that i raised enough hell to make a dealership cover the $1400 fix. If it happened again today? The car is GONE!!!

blakedanatural

Can anyone tell me how to release the bottom bolt on the rear calipers? I attempted to change all my breaks this weekend but i was able to change the rear due to the lower caliper bolt. I used a 14mm socket but i was unable to get good leverage to release the bolt. Due I need to place a check somewhere elsae under the wheel? I hope I didnt strip the bolt: (. I need this forum help. Yourt prompt attention to this request will be greatly appreciated

Defiant_Max04

iTrader: (1)

I just wanted to post an update to the original post. After getting it diagnosed one more time, it turns out..drumroll..that it is the ABS controller. I can get a used one on eBay for $300 with a lifetime warranty OR buy a used one locally for $200. I'm not spending $1,300 for a new one though. What would you recommend? Also, does anyone have the EXACT part number for the 2004 no VDC or TCS manufactured in 03? Thank you.

By the way, this problem upset me so much that I was highly considering trading this in for an LS400. Yes, it would be boring and not sporty, but at least that 1UZ-FE is reliable!

ubersl

Why not just forget about it all together? I made my peace with it, those lights don't distract me anymore. Plus my dealership was going to start with sensors before moving on to ABS module itself. And I was quoted about $400 per rear sensor. Buying used module you are running the risk paying labor charges for the replacement every time it fails again.

tOpDoLLa

There's a TSB for the rear ABS. There is a white plastic that covers the back side of the rear hub. That plastic cover moves and cuts into the ABS sensor, when it hits the sensor it activates the ABS. NTB07-016A. It may also b the ABS actuator according to the TSB.

tOpDoLLa

LOL. I'm still driving with the light on. No time to fix my own car, I remove the big red fuse on the left side of the engine fuse box n cut the one that controls the ABS

Defiant_Max04

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to post a much needed update to this thread. I've been driving around with the ABS unplugged for the past few months. I took my car to a shop who specializes in ABS and they told me it was definitely the actuator. Was going to call Corporate to see if I can get it covered and they told me I need to take it to the dealer. Argued a bit and they offered to pay the diagnostic. Took it there and spoke to a tech who told me the actuator is bad. $2400 fix. Will call corporate to hopefully get this repaired under "goodwill". Anyone have experience with goodwill repairs or tips?

po8pimp

I have and they suck. Good luck with that. Considering you have a 2004 and it is 2011. I don't think you fall into that category. I would start looking at the chop shops for a broken maxima. There is a member who just had his car totalled, talk with him. Maybe he can do some shady ops and take the one off his car for you. These ABS's are a PITA. I just bled my brake system, and the ABS is talked about in that procedure. They tell you to disconnect the battery, so the ABS does not engage while you are bleeding the brakes. First vehicle I have ever seen tell you to do that while bleeding the brakes.

ubersl

Have ABS and Brake lights on. ABS module stuck on and was buzzing when car is off. All I have done is cut one of the links and the fusible link module.
This weekend passed NYS inspection with no problems.
Will keep on driving like that.

bubartribe

Just thought I'd share my experience with ABS on my '04 Maxima. About a month ago, my ABS started pulsing during normal braking sporadically. I took it into the local garage the next day and they couldn't find any codes and found that all the wheel sensors were all working(all showing all the same speed.) We noticed that the ABS pump would come on when driving forward without even using the brakes. At first, it didn't appear the pump would come on when going in reverse, but I later found out it would when going a little faster in reverse, again w/o using the brakes at all.
I then came home and found the posts pointing to TSB NTB 07-016b. I took the Bulletin back to the garage and scheduled a service to clean out the rear hubs. In the meantime, I disconnected the front passenger wheel ABS sensor "to disable the ABS system" to avoid my ABS actuator burning up. This is the connector found below the A/C lines near the power steering fluid well on the passenger side of the engine compartment.
When I took the car in to have the hubs cleaned out, I found out that both rear wheel bearings needed to be replaced. That's why the rear end had been making more and more noise for about a year? My car has about 168,000 miles on it. I took the car home to find some more affordable wheel bearings online. I ended up getting some Moog Wheel Bearings(which have been working fine) made in China. I also ordered two new style rear hub grease caps part number 43234-ZK30A to replace the now brittle grease caps that came with the car.
In the meantime, while I was waiting for the bearings, I heard humming the next morning when I went out into the garage. The car wasn't even on. I turned the car on and off and the humming stopped. When I started the car, the belt squealed from the load on the alternator charging the battery. Later that day, I determined that what was humming was the ABS actuator(aka pump or modulator.) It would come on when the car was off. I then found online that when this is happening, the ABS actuator would need to be replaced. Disabling the ABS sensor didn't disable the ABS system and save my actuator after all.
In order to save the battery, I found out I could pull the red 50A, 30A, 30A fusible link in the fuse box near the battery. I first tried pulling the ABS Cont fuse in the fuse box next to the Windshield Washer fluid but that didn't stop the pump. When I pulled the link, I also lost a lot of other things like power windows, remote locking, etc. I ended up cutting the two 30A links in the fusible link to disable the ABS without losing all the other functions. Maybe, I should have tried to snip the middle 30A link first to see if that would have worked without snipping the outer 30A ABS link, too.
So, I waited to get the bearings and see if we could fix the problems in the rear hubs. In the meantime, I bought a new fusible link to use when I wanted to see if the ABS was going to work after cleaning out the rear hub(s). I was hoping they were wrong about needing a new actuator if it stayed on when the car was off. The part number for that link was 24370-C9906.
I had also found that some had ignored the part of the bulletin that said the right rear sensor needed to be replaced when cleaning out the hubs, and they cautioned people to be careful about cleaning things up so as not to damage the rear wheel sensor, so I copied these posts and asked the garage to do the same, hoping to not have to buy any sensors. Just in case, I also found that I could get a rear passenger wheel sensor for $18 including shipping at http://www.ebay.com/itm/160994172542...84.m1438.l2649 I couldn't find any of the other sensors for less than $90 ea.
When I picked up the car from having the hubs cleaned and the wheel bearings installed, I put the new fusible link in and the ABS and Brake lights came on. Something was still wrong. The garage then read the codes and read codes 1124, 1111 and 1110. These were all codes for the ABS Actuator.
So, I went home again and found a used ABS Actuator for my car, '04 Maxima SE w/o Traction Control or Vehicle Dynamic Control, part no. 47660-7Y067 for about $220, a lot less than a new one for over $1000.
When I got that, I took it back to the garage and had it installed to get my ABS functioning again. Took them about 4 hours. It is quite a tight fit and the brakes needed to be bled after disconnecting the old actuator and reconnecting the new. Now, everything is working great and it's nice to have the ABS functioning again for about $450, after replacing both wheel bearings and getting the hubs cleaned out for about $375.
Hope this might help some who may be having similar issues. Maybe, it will even alert others to get their hubs cleaned up and drilled out to drain as it directs in the TSB(NTB 07-016b) before the sensor acts up and burns out the solenoid in the ABS actuator.

Holly

I don't have issues with the brakes as of yet, but I have another issue with the abs control unit, or computer. I would lose power while driving, and the car still running.. All of a sudden the accelerator wouldn't accelerate and I'd have to pull over. The abs light would pop on for a minute or two. When they abs light was on is when I wouldn't be able to accelerate. I pulled the abs fuse, and problem went away, but no longer have a spedomter, or odometer..

jnrzmomma74

can you tell me the links you cut to disable it??