E3 Spark Plugs
E3 Spark Plugs
ok so dunno if anyone seen these advertise am considering getting some of these BUT do they really work as advertise? have anyone tried them in a max?
they said its suppose to give you HP increase and better MPG and also last roughly up to 100,000 miles, which when you look at it is all wins from this aspect but many companies have said this before and never delivered, have anyone personally tried these?
http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/
above is the offical link to the site, am actually surprised by the price too, its fairly cheap
they said its suppose to give you HP increase and better MPG and also last roughly up to 100,000 miles, which when you look at it is all wins from this aspect but many companies have said this before and never delivered, have anyone personally tried these?
http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/
above is the offical link to the site, am actually surprised by the price too, its fairly cheap
I use Denso Iridiums in mine. I would never believe something that claims both better fuel economy and HP gains. My fuel economy went down a tad, but you can tell the difference in starts and in HP. I have the Iridiums with the U design, uses less electricity to produce a spark and creates a bigger spark. I had to replace a coil pack recently, and checked my plug. The plug was pretty much looking new. It has been a little over a year now with them in. Only downside is 60k miles vice 100k miles. cost is the same as the NGKs. I will be overhauling my engine before I reach 140k miles on this bad boy anyway so not worried.
I installed a set in my 99 SE and have been pretty happy with them. Granted it feels better than the worn out plugs that were in there, but I would be comfortable recommending them to help add a little more juice to a mostly stock car.
you would have to look at how they word it.
"More power and performance"
"Improved fuel economy"
"Reduced emissions"
"Longer engine life"
Very vague if u ask me.
You're going to get all these things if you change out your old, dirty, worn plugs anyways.
I love the way this thread is going, but it seems like all the peeps that have negative feed backs have not actually tested the plugs and everyone that have either say it works or didn't notice no improvement. So I guess this topic is still up in the air :S
Boys/Girls,
Plugs are plugs!
Well, not entirely true but that is pretty close. Your best plugs for conductivty are going to be copper. The issue, however, with copper plugs is that they foil quite quickly, and since we have an intake-manifold that take up an afternoon of our time to to change out plugs, we have platinum's in the our engines to increase intervals at which we have to change out the plugs.
The real issue to consider, however, for our plugs deals with warm/cold plug design. That deals with where the plug finally sits, after being properly torqued down, in the combustion chamber. Our combustion chamber has an optimum design ref angles, air-flow, spark location, and fuel injection/spray-pattern.
Our engines take specifically cold-plugs. If you thrown in a warm-plug, or the wrong size cold-plug, then it will not be sitting properly in the combustion chamber. As a result, you will have a less than effective detonation of fuel in the combustion chamber and everything that comes with that. You need to make sure that the plugs are the same dimensions as our stock NGK platinum plugs that come with the car.
If the plug is the same length (ref http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug) from the bottom seal of the plug to the side/center electrode of the plug, then you will be fine.
Plugs are plugs!
Well, not entirely true but that is pretty close. Your best plugs for conductivty are going to be copper. The issue, however, with copper plugs is that they foil quite quickly, and since we have an intake-manifold that take up an afternoon of our time to to change out plugs, we have platinum's in the our engines to increase intervals at which we have to change out the plugs.
The real issue to consider, however, for our plugs deals with warm/cold plug design. That deals with where the plug finally sits, after being properly torqued down, in the combustion chamber. Our combustion chamber has an optimum design ref angles, air-flow, spark location, and fuel injection/spray-pattern.
Our engines take specifically cold-plugs. If you thrown in a warm-plug, or the wrong size cold-plug, then it will not be sitting properly in the combustion chamber. As a result, you will have a less than effective detonation of fuel in the combustion chamber and everything that comes with that. You need to make sure that the plugs are the same dimensions as our stock NGK platinum plugs that come with the car.
If the plug is the same length (ref http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug) from the bottom seal of the plug to the side/center electrode of the plug, then you will be fine.
Im not saying that those plugs are bad. Im saying that they cannot and will not produce more power than OEM.
I changed my plugs for NGK iridiums and honestly I regret it since it cost 30$ more than OEM plats and there is ABSOLUTELY no difference between the 80K miles plats and new iridiums.... Not even a more regular idle, even after cheaning the intake and TB. (not like it was that bad anyway, some gunk). It's SOOOOO subjective, only a dyno could tell....
The spark doesnt make the power, sorry. It works or it doesnt. period.
I would just stick to OEM, that way you can make this ****ty job less often, and try to get performance elsewhere...
I changed my plugs for NGK iridiums and honestly I regret it since it cost 30$ more than OEM plats and there is ABSOLUTELY no difference between the 80K miles plats and new iridiums.... Not even a more regular idle, even after cheaning the intake and TB. (not like it was that bad anyway, some gunk). It's SOOOOO subjective, only a dyno could tell....
The spark doesnt make the power, sorry. It works or it doesnt. period.
I would just stick to OEM, that way you can make this ****ty job less often, and try to get performance elsewhere...
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