Kryogen

UPDATE:

Brake rebuild is still good 2 years later, no brake issues. Calipers don't leak. Was worth it.

update, paint job turned out to be shot, it's all gone with rust showing through. didnt even last a few months, worthless to do.
regular oil paint doesnt last under the harsh conditions.

Maybe get them cleaned and powdercoated, or zinc plated, or whatever, but it's not worth a paint job.


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My driver side front caliper piston is really hard to retract (needs a big c clamp with a pipe extension). tried to push it out a little and retract the boot, and you can see a ring of rust color on the piston. Doesnt look pitted or really bad but I guess it would need a good cleaning, good bore cleaning, and new seal/boot.

Would you guys just buy the rebuild kit from nissan and rebuild both front calipers for like 40$, or get a remanufactured caliper from the parts shop? (like 80$ each).

Anyone did a rebuild with success on a piston that started to grip?

Kryogen

oh well whatever ill do the rebuild and tell you how it went.

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

If you have the tools and know how to do it, it's cheaper than buying a rebuilt one.

revvinMAXto11

rebuilding a caliper is not worth it in my opinion... its difficult and not worth the time

NIKV69

Let us know how your rebuild goes!

Kryogen

ya, I ordered the parts for the front (sticking one) but ill just get em in 2-3 weeks.

I might do the rears tomorrow. I have the nissan oem seals anyway, so ill use em. Just disassemble, clean, change seal, boot.... why not. it's almost 8 years old rubber.

BadBlackMaxSL

iTrader: (1)

Let us know if it stops the clunking on the bumps.

Kryogen

clunking is from the bushings (my guess) ill install them tomorrow on the front and ill know right away.

Kryogen

I installed front bushings today, still clunks, so its not the calipers..... (see other thread).

I rebuilt the rear calipers with the nissan seal kit. Wasnt really hard, just takes a bit of time.... remove caliper, install a 3/8 1 inch bolt w the 2 washers so fluid stops draining while you work.

Wirebrushed the connecting part, the bleeder, applied anti seize to the bleeder, then removed the piston, removed C wire, remove boot, remove seal, clean boot groove (was rusted alot), clean caliper bore, seal groove (was just a bit dirty). install new seal, install piston, put boot over, drive piston fully in, push boot all around, install C wire.... reinstall, bleed, done...

Pistons and bore were still #1. They had no trouble, but since I had the kit and they are 8 years old, why not do it. Drained a crapload of brownish brake fluid from the calipers. Pistons had some rust starting in the boot area, but none in the sealing area, so I cleaned well and reused. (boot was aged and letting water through).

If you have any questions regarding rear calipers rebuild, feel free to ask.

I will do the front and report when I get the kit in 2-3 weeks. (left caliper piston really hard to retract. caliper or hose, I dont know. I'll tell you when I do it.

2006maxed

I would of bought them rebuilt and painted them with caliper paint. But that is just me. What pads did you use and did you resurface the rotors?

Kryogen

I am talking about a caliper rebuild. not talking about pads, rotor or paint man....my pads, rotors and paint are fine. thats not the topic here.....

Kryogen

Did the front rebuild today. The 2 front were in a worse condition. Rubber boot was swollen and slack, letting water go in. The piston was covered with baked brake fluid crust. There was a line of pitting and beginning of rust on the piston just at the seal. I cleaned pistons with brake cleaner, and used 1000 sandpaper to smoothen any small bumps in the pitted area. Pistons will be more susceptible to rust since they lost chrome at some spots, but since I installed a new tight boot with grease and everything, it should be better I guess. Worst case scenario ill order 2 pistons in a few years....

Brake fluid in the caliper was all brown rusted. Cleaned everything in the bore with WD40, brake cleaner and a small scraper in the boot and seal area. Reinstalled it all, works #1 now. Glides smooth.

Btw, easiest way to put boot and piston back in the front :

slide boot over piston. bring it almost to the bottom, so the part that goes into the caliper sits below the piston. Slide that part in the caliper. then push the piston in until the boot snaps on the groove on the piston.

If you dont do it this way, youll never be able to get the piston in the boot, or get the boot in the caliper.

imported_maximus_se

thanks if you had pictures it would be really appreciated.

Kryogen

My piston looked like this

http://www.flickr.com/photos/anton_matthee/358593867/

: minor pitting that I polished with 1000 sandpaper. of course the chrome there is gone, so gotta keep the boot nice and lubed so water doesnt go back in and ruin the piston more.

The rest is like all the DIY you see on google. Check "caliper rebuild" on google, there are 2-3 good examples with pics, its all the same...

To get the pistons out, the easiest was to insert a bolt in the hole there the brake fluid fitting goes, and just tighten the caliper in a big vise...... it pushes the piston gently out, no mess. whatever way really, its just a basic 1 piston caliper rebuild. if you have any specific questions feel free to ask. the rest is really "generic"

Kryogen

oh and btw ive read numerous articles saying that putting back boot and seal is hard and crap... really. rebuild is easy. just take your time, clean everything, it's easy. anyone can do it.


I used a small vice grip on the rubber hose to prevent the fluid from draining while I was doing the job. Dont destroy the hose, just clamp lightly...

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

When I installed my 300zx front calipers I rebuilt and painted them. Its the only way to fly!!

Kryogen

honestly, if you want to paint the calipers, disconnect them... I went through SO MUCH TROUBLE trying to grind them on the car, and then painting in the wheel well... no ****. takes 2 minutes to disconnect and bleed. do not try to grind and paint them on the car....

Kryogen

update, paint job turned out to be shot, it's all gone with rust showing through. didnt even last a few months, worthless to do.
regular oil paint doesnt last under the harsh conditions.

Maybe get them cleaned and powdercoated, or zing plated, or whatever, but it's not worth a paint job.

Brake rebuild is still good 2 years later, no brake issues.

CanadianMoFo

I bought reman rear calipers from Napa. They have an "Eclipse" line that are coated black. Supposed to not rust. Seems like they're holding up. Went with a set for a 350z on the rear and a 350z rotor and they bolted up nicely. Was about $120ea for the calipers after core return. When my front rotors need replacing I'm going to toss on a set of the Napa Eclipse calipers on the front end too. I think they were about the same price as the rears. Huge core charge though, they really want them back.

CM.

po8pimp

what is the difference between the 350z caliper and the maxima caliper? are they dual piston or single?

CanadianMoFo

Single piston. However the piston is larger, and the pad is larger. Also the 350z rotor is a vented rotor, vs the OEM non-vented.

Kryogen

do you have issues with the maxima brakes not stopping the car? Because I can lock all 4 wheels without much effort on OEM brakes. Why would you want to go bigger?

CanadianMoFo

Well bigger is always better. More brake rotor material and its vented. Will last longer, run cooler, and will be less prone to warping.

CM

Kryogen

I'll still give you the same argument.

Do you have issues with the maxima brakes not stopping the car? Because I can lock all 4 wheels without much effort on OEM brakes.

Unless you race or something, I don't see the point. OEM brakes are already strong enough.

And if you race, seriously, get a racecar.