hello i have a 2000 and already have the automax rtp drilled sloted 5th gen rotors with the gold zinc plating and steel brake lines and am happy with longevity and stopping power.....just with my new nineteens on there they look way too small so this really is a cosmetic thing....

so im in need of a good quality rotor preferably with the gold zinc plating to match rears and ill just buy the blemco brackets so they will fit and call it a day...

.i know you 6th geners have rotor warping issues and just dont want to buy wrong ones and have that happen to me....so please chime in and let me know what your experiences are...thank you any help is greatly appreciated

 

Where did you see/hear about this?? That's not related to RTP rotors anyways...

 

have heard that in multiple threads throughout the years....as common as the 5.5 gen burning oil....but anyway thats nor here nor there, maybe im wrong....not trying to start some controversy....

my only point in posting this is to ask you guys about your experiences with drilled slotted rotors for the 6th gen.... i can find what seems like every company making them for the 5th gen but very few for the 6th gen.....

 

i didn't think you where supposed to use slotted rotors unless your doing track driving. the slots are there to clear the rotor of the glaze under high temp conditions. If you use them on a daily driver it tends to promote early pad wear.

 

thanks for imput but as stated above its a cosmetic thing....i have mille miglia evo 19" so the space between spokes is huge and you can totally see into there....the drilled slotted 5th gold zinc rotors look great, just small.....

when purchasing these in first place great consideration was given to what you stated above and i decided it would be worth the extra money.....i figured so what what do pads cost 70 bucks....well almost four years later and over 40k miles the conclusion....

Same original pads, rotors never warped, rotors never cracked, gold zinc plating still as shiney and new as day i bought them and pads still have plenty of meat on them.....my thoughts are those reporting quicker wear and all those problems must have bought lower level rotors or pads or both

which leads me back to my original statements ...

To those with EXPERIENCE WITH 6TH GEN DRILLED SLOTTED ROTORS please step inside and post your findings... i would just buy the same rotors i have but in the 6th gen size but they do not make them .... thanks to any that can help

 

drilled and slotted rotors are weak, and are for civic ricers.
there is no glaze on modern pads.

get blanks, thats where the performance is.....

 

A lot of people including me have Alien Brake rotors. The quality of them are second to none. You can request that the caps be painted as well. Here's the thread for the group deal. They're 215 shipped for both F+R rotors. You have the choice of slotted/drilled, slotted, or drilled:

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...roup-deal.html

 

Hey thanks ....after doing a search i came upon these alien's already and they look really good and at a great price too.....my only concern was longevity and any warping issues? thanks for HELPFUL info....

even though according to above poster "drilled and slotted rotors are weak, and are for civic ricers" haha man any time i have stepped into the 6th gen forums here i feel like its not even the org its so vastly different from what im used to in the 5th gen..... but thanks 6.5affiliate i do appeciate the helpful feedback

 

No problem at all, I've seen quite a few people that have these without any complaints. Unless you race your car pretty often then you don't really have to worry. These are made with quality material as well.

Although, there is some truth that they aren't as solid as blanks and slotted rotors since there's less surface material that the brake pads can use which reduces some of the stopping power. In addition, this normally makes them prone to cracks and warping. Some brands use very low quality materials to make their rotors which contribute to this as well. IMO slotted/drilled rotors are more for aesthetics than anything else.

Honestly, I got the slotted rotors because of this reason and it still adds a little aesthetic value to the ride itself. Anyways, don't worry about some members that are on here. The one your referring to. Is one of the people that has turned this section of the org upside down to the point that mostly noobs come on here now.

Just remember that not everyone on here is a complete azz about everything.

 

6.5 affiliate : "The one your referring to. Is one of the people that has turned this section of the org upside down to the point that mostly noobs come on here now. "

Now you talk like a real old schooler. Funny thing here is that I joined the org 2 years and a half before you.

Now please stop *****ing because you do not agree with my point of view. I dont agree with yours and im not all over here saying that this forum is retarded because of you. Seriously. Get a life.

More noobs come here because the 6th gen is 8 years old and it's cheap to buy now and more and more kids get it, and most people who got it when it first came out sold it and are gone.

All I said is that slotted and drilled rotors offer less braking power, and less durability compared to blanks. Ive never ever seen a nascar or F1 with something else than blanks.

It's been shown that drilled rotors can crack and cause dangerous accidents. I've posted a serious thread about this already.

If someone wants to buy weak aftermarket drilled rotors, then dont expect me to tell him its safe and good.

 

Nascar uses slotted.

 

I'd like to see you on a road course, autocross, Houston traffic or driving downhill a couple thousand feet and say that

I read this and only one thing came to mind...



*Read license plate*


Nascar:



Oh wait... Are those slotted rotors?

As for F1.... Their rotors aren't made out of steel you n00b!!!!



Wait... wtf am I doing in the 6th gen section? It's full of n00bs here

But there's two kinds, they're the genuine kind who come to learn some knowledge, then there's the other n00bs who make up stuff and act like they know wtf they're talking about...

 

-> I almost died when reading this thread!

How did it come to this when OP was just asking a simple question?! - gotta love maxima.org

 

They're slotted rotors, but that's not a NASCAR chassis.
1. single-hub nut. NASCAR uses regular 5lug wheels, not hub nuts.
2. fiberglass body. Note the body clips that hold the hood in place.
3. BBS sticker. BBS doesn't make the steel wheels used in NASCAR.
4. Fenders don't come off a NASCAR chassis unless they're been wrecked.
5. That pic was posted on a Porsche forum regarding brakes from a Trans Am car: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...apporoach.html
6. there's about 20 other things I could point out to show it's not a NASCAR chassis, but you get the point.

Oh wait, who's talking ish they don't know like a n00b?

Back to the point at hand.. slotted rotors are fine. you'll have a bit more pad wear, but they're fine. The StopTech brake kit on my G35 has 100k miles on it with the same slotted rotors. I've been through 3 sets of Hawk HPS pads on them, but the rotors are still in good shape.

Crossdrilled rotors are trash. Unless you own a Porsche, Ferrari, BMW, or Mercedes that came with them from the factory, then stay away from them. They do no good on a street car due to their tendency to crack.

Brackets.. Good luck buying Blehmco brackets from me for your car. I'm out of them and I'm not planning to make any more. If you can find a used set, then good for you. But I don't plan to sell any more at this time. There's just not enough sales in it for me to continue to spent my time and effort getting them made and to sit in my garage for years.

 

Those are what stuck out to me when posting the photo, but the calipers look near the same design with the curves on the slots, that's why I posted it... Also Nascar uses the same heatsink cooling idea, right?? Those are the two reasons why I posted that pic, it's close enough

I know, but I figured you of all people wouldn't be in here to point that out

Go back to the advanced chassis stuff

I do have more half baked ideas (as silly as disconnecting the front sway bar and such) to hit the road course with, once I hit up a track I will report my results, and await your conclusion (I'm too lazy to do force diagrams, rather just waste money, time and steel )

 

how many times you gonna spin out this trip?

 

If I ain't spinning out at least 3x then I'm doing it wrong

How did we get off topic from brakes to me failing in the "Bus Stop"???

 

Brembo calipers all look pretty much the same. they're big metal things that fit around a disc. most of the racing versions come in gold anodize (MIL-spec light hard anodize coating.).
But yeah, NASCAR uses rotors that are very similar to those. usually not a full width slot like we use, but they will have j-hooks and such in them similar to the ones posted up there.


disconnecting you front sway will make life very bad for you at the track, unless you're talking about drag racing.

I'm going to MSRH tonight for a little while to play.. trying to break a 1:50.. come out and watch how it's done.

 

removing my front sway bar has made my life for the better (on the road course), I'll play with it reconnected this weekend (ONLY because you said so ), but I'm pretty firm about leaving it disconnected when I'm on the road course.

What time? I'll definitely stop by, drag mightymax's lame behind out there too....

 

lolzip

 

doh. I was out there from 3 until 9pm. (on track till 6:30.)
I left work right after that last post, so didn't get a chance to reply.

What issues are you having at the road course that makes you want to remove the front bar? feel free to start another thread or PM on that since we're getting slightly off topic.