Well, you do have a problem.

 

Sounds like the white box behind the radio is bad. Its located right under the information screen if you have an 04-06.

 

Yeah its an 06

 

You made it home so the ECU is fine. I'd rather start looking around the alternator to see if it shorted. And check all fuses including the main battery fuse.

What is your battery voltage now?

 

George check your PM's

 

Help! 2005 Maxima 3.5l been extensively searching for a "trans cooler seal" seems the type of trans oil cooler I have or Maybe the issue it's self isn't common. It's not in the same location nor will the standard oil cooler seal work. From what my buddy told me is Nissan doesn't sell this seal by its self, it's more of a fitting? And it comes only with a new transmission? Correct me on the last part but I know at best we would have to lift tranny. My buddy cleaned the trans cooler and original seal/fitting and used a sealant on it. He is going to keep an eye on it but naturally I'm concerned. I put alot of money into this car to get codes cleared but it certainly isn't worth a tranny lift.

 

My bad, I started a thread and didn't see this sticky. So here's the info:
07 Maxima
Car battery needed replaced (it would try to turn over), both key fobs worked
New battery put in, neither key fob works, nor does the mechanical key
The ignition will not come out of lock position with mechanical key, no green key displayed
all other electrical that I can check without turning to ACC works fine
Checked fuses, all good
replaced relay fuse coming off positive terminal as it had some corrosion and I had my fingers crossed, didn't help
seems to me that the receiver is not getting the codes from the fobs/keys, no idea what relay to check that might contribute to that,
Open to other suggestions

 

So juggled a few relays that were the same and no change. Have tried things that are not even logical but I read it somewhere and I'm out of ideas. No luck at all. The Nissan dealer said the keys couldn't lose there coding, so it has to be an electrical component. But I'm clueless......

 

size 19 not the exact size butt 19 metric I know that much

 

Okay, so a couple of things first:

I started a thread on the 6th Gen forum about this a few days ago, but can't see it there. No responses either, obviously, but then I noticed this thread, and some folks are saying that there's some sort of prereq that us noobs have to meet before we can start a thread...? I don't recall seeing anything of the sort in the T&C or anywhere, or even any 'Start Here' kinda guides to stuff like that, but can anyone speak to that? Kinda miffed that my original post just disappeared on me.

Anyway, not here to *****, on to my question: I recently purchased an '04 Max (first time Nissan owner!) SL, and the seller told me the FR window wasn't working. Despite my lack of automotive knowledge, I'm kinda handy and a DIYer, figured it wasn't a deal breaker even though I've not played with power windows before.

Did some research and toyed with it a couple times, master switch and passenger door switch both cause a clicking sound, leads me to believe it's not the window lift motor.

Fast forward to two weeks ago, when my FL window died too. Same thing; clicking heard on button press. Assumed the glass was off track due to separating from the seal at the back of the door.

Took the door panel off and removed the inner panel, regulator looks good. Got the motor working, at least enough to get the window closed before it died, now with no audible click on button press. Ordered a new FL motor, swapped it out, tested, golden. Put the inner panel back on, tested, fabulous. Put the door panel back on, tested... nothing.

So, for the FL, I know the regulator and motor are good. The only time the window won't budge is after I get the door panel back in place. Is there something the panel might be pinching or causing to short? Could this be related to my FR issue? Everything else on the master switch functions perfectly. I'm at the end of my realm of knowledge... help!

(apologies for length, I talk when I'm frustrated)

 

This thread still active? Thankfully haven't needed to drive much due to Covid, but would love to be able to roll my window down for some fresh air when it's 90+ degrees out and I have to go somewhere.

 

Sorry tried to make a post didn't notice the sticky- Here it is again or for the first time.

Story: After a couple hour drive to the city in my 2007 Maxima I stopped at a red light, at which point the engine immediately started smoking like an old time villain and the engine temperature shot up to redline less then a minute later. I Refilled the very low cooling fluid and I thought that was the end of it but next long drive I took the same thing happened.



After some checking I realized the radiator fans where not going on and I proceeded to do the following:

1. Ran wires to the fan nearest to the battery and it ran, so the fans seem to be ok.
2. Visually inspected the fuse they seemed fine.
3. Tested each of the relay to see if they "click" which they do. ( I don't have a multi meter so that all I could do)
4. Pulled out all three relay and "jumped" the socket, by that I mean I placed wires directly into the socket and and ran the car with the heat/ac on full blast and the fans did not trigger- Plus I ran the car in test mode where the last check is the fans and they did not trigger.

Here are the things I am thinking but I am running out of ideas:

1. People said to check the cooling fan switch but I am not sure that this car has cooling fan switch and even if it did wouldn't the relays be triggered when the heat was on full blast or when I ran the self diagnostic mode?
2. Replace the whole IPDM/computer board
3. I guess start checking wires individually? (and I guess I need to buy a multi meter )

PS Not sure if the other issues with this car are relevant but they might be, lets see what you guys think.

1. The AC has never worked on this car a mechanic took a quick look and said that the compressor is no good. I brought another one but have not put it in yet. But I am not convinced that is the issue.
2. The car sometimes takes a bunch of key turns to start, you can hear the relay but it doesn't even crank. When it does crank it always starts. I am not sure what this problem is either, this has been this way for 7 months and I always thought a bad starter just dies.

It would be neat to all be related and switching the IPDM would solve all the issues.

Thanks for any and all suggestions

 

Hi guys, yes I'm new here please help... I tried searching the forums for my problem but couldn't see another post. When I got my 2007 maxima st-l in 2017 the parking sensors worked fine. They stopped working about a year ago and when I asked Nissan service about it they quoted $700+. I read somewhere that for the Australian models the sensors were an afterthought and connected through the tail lights so there's no on off switch (I tried looking for it 🤪. Anyone know how to get them working again?
Ken

 

yes a radiator is $200 I just replaced mine...and alternator and now power steering is milky looking

 

Bueller?
... Bueller?

Man. It's been almost three months since my original post, and still nothing. Guess I'm gonna have to start posting wacky sh*t to meet that minimum requirement before I can be considered a big boy to post in the regular channels. Weak sauce. Best of luck to the rest of you!

 

Im newly registered on the forum but have owned 5 of the 6th generation Maximas. This one was by far my favorite. Until some idiot hit me ansd totaled it a few months ago

 

Just got a 6th gen maxima with the 5spd. I want to get the sfr turbo kit. Would my 5spd handle it? If not where can I get it built for such power (315-370whp). As well as if anyone knows where I can get headers, pre cats, a y pipe etc

 

Hi guys, Im am new here. I purchased an 04 maxima. The car is stuck in 3rd gear and the code that come up is P0705 (pnp switch). I've replaced the switch twice already, once with an aftermarket one and yesterday with a Nissan Purchased one. Code was cleared once the part was installed and it came back as soon as the car was turned on. I followed nissans directions for install and still the same. I am at a loss. I have no idea what else to do to fix it. If anyone has an idea on what to do, this would be great. Also, the gear reader on the dash goes in this direction when switching gears: P,_,P(should ne "N"),_. When I shift over to the slap shifting it stays on 1 no matter how many times I push up or down on it.

 

[QUOTE=Briandrum;8279207]I've searched everywhere for this, and can't find an answer...hope someone can help!

I have an 05 Maxima, auto...about a week and a half ago, I had the radiator replaced. About 2-3 days after I got my car back, I started hearing a strange sound when accelerating. It's not the rattle from the heat shield (that's already been taken care of!), but it's almost like a low hum/whine that get's louder as I accelerate, and as I slow down, it get's quieter. It's not very loud, but loud enough to freak me out a bit. It doesn't happen when idle and I slowly press the gas, it's only when in motion. Hopefully I gave enough info here that someone will know what it is and be able to help me get this taken care of....preferably for not too much $$! :-)it sounds like your transmission is either low on oil or you have some other problem./QUOTE]

 

Hi, new here. I bought my son his first car, a 2008 Maxima SE and doing some maintenance and trying to fix some bugs. I've noticed two of the doors have sticking door handles.
Takes a lot of force to open them, then the handle has to be pushed back into place to shut the door... any fixes or known issues here related to this? any feedback would be appreciated, thanks.

 

More often then not, it's lubrication. There are lots of 2004-2008 Maximas in the junkyards. Watch Youtube videos on how to PROPERLY remove the door assemblies. Step one: Lube everything with lithium grease and see if that helps. Step two: Get a good functioning door mechanism at a SELF SERVICE salvage yard. Skip to step two if you have never removed the door mechanism before. It's best to remove the door handle before sliding out the cable and ball end from said door handle. No one cares if you dismantle a door assembly in the salvage yard for learning purposes.

I wonder if the cable that goes from the door handle to the door mechanism is rusted inside the cable housing.

 

First off, woe is me for wanting to upgrade such an old car, but nevertheless I hope I'm in the right place. It's such a difficult and specific thing to search for so I'm posting here...

I love the factory Bose system, but my aux input became damaged after about 2 months use. I read a work up on replacing that specific component (pretty sure from this forum), but decided if I would go to the trouble of removing the stereo I may as well just replace it with something bluetooth ready. So I purchased a cheap Jensen head unit Double DIN and then realized I was in over my head after I disconnected the half dozen connectors.

I reached out to a local custom stereo shop and they wound up selling me the harness kit 70-7552 and were mentioning issues like voltages and the built-in Bose amp. They offered the 70-7553 and explained I would need to use an RCA splitter but that I would lose volume that way and with the 52 I would hear a "low level" hiss when no audio signal was present. I opted for the 52 because that hiss didn't seem like a horrible thing and the 53 would have taken weeks to arrive.

Well, it's bad. I don't hear it while the music is loud, but if tracks change its obvious and if I don't remember to turn volume down when I park, upon starting the car up again, my ears will nearly bleed.

That's not even the worst part...

I've lost my vehicle info. Can't see DTE (Distance To Empty) or anything else on that screen. The A/C screen just above it still works but it has its own connector.

What boggles my mind is that I don't remember disconnecting anything from that info screen, only from the 6 disc changer/head unit itself. The kit obviously only had the standard speaker wires, ignition, power, ground, etc. So how can I get the vehicle info back? How did it even work to begin with if there was never a connector to it?

Please share any tips or link me to some tutorials on this. Specifically it's a 2007 SL. Can I discard the original face plate, separate the disc changer and use only the bottom section then pop a single DIN stereo over that and splice that into my kit so that I can reconnect the vehicle info to its original spot? I don't see how that would work, but I'm not even seeing how it worked to begin with.

Alternatively, should I do what the shop suggested and bypass the Bose amp altogether, purchase my own and then either purchase a subwoofer or try to fish out the bose wiring and reconnect it to my new amp? Ultimately I just want a bluetooth capable head unit to work with my bose system and NOT sacrifice my vehicle info screen, is that possible?

 

I went with a Kenwood DMX-809S - Android Auto. Only the climate control remains functional. I don't think you're going be able to keep vehicle info. You might be able to add some Android Auto capabilities to have some vehicle info. I moved my monochrome screen down where the cassette deck used to be and put the double-din Android Auto unit in the monochrome screen's place. An audio shop South of the border charged me 2,000 pesos ~ US$ 110 for labor. The opaque plastic sides on the bezel will need to be ground down a bit so you don't obstruct the touch screen. I moved the monochrome screen down using a Metra brand lower bezel. The Android Auto is on top because I don't like looking down at navigation. Crutchfield can advise you on everything you need to buy. They specifically ask on the site if you have a Bose or Panasonic sound system. No woe for upgrading an old car. It's common in Mexico.