So after my headlight stop working for about a month or so...it suddenly just turned on!...i know, good news. But there's a catch, the born again headlight is stuck on high beam. I click the highbeams on and off, and the driver side switches fine but the passenger headlight stays on the high beam. The driver side matches the passenger only when I have the high beams on.
Anyone else have this issue? Or know a solution?

I appreciate the feed back.

 

Ok, So the heam in our cars is just one single beam. There is No "high, low beam". The thing that controls this is a solinoid connected to a blinder. When you engage the "high beams" the flapper pulls back to allow you to see the full range of the lamp.

Now since you just said that the headlight was out for about a month, then came back on, points to the fact that you have some moisture in your lamp and maybe shorted something out. The only way for the High Beam to be constantly on is for the solenoid to be supplied a constant 12 volts. Either there is a short somewhere, or you need a new relay for your high beams. You might just have a relay stuck closed. But i would start be removing the headlamp assembly and seeing what you find. It is not too hard of a task, and you might learn something new... If you need more detailed help, PM me.

 

The shutter's(blinder's) are both controlled via one relay but separate fuses. With it being stuck on the high beam, i would think that the primary cause is the shudder in the headlight being stuck open because it doesn't open until 12v is applied.

As far as the headlight being out then magically coming back on one day, both bulbs also get power from one relay then goes through separate fuses to the headlight. Only a little moisture or bad connection can explain that one. A short would have blown the fuse.

 

Yeah, i had some moisture coming through my headlight, which started started problem the 1st time. I took the headlight out and cracked it open and resealed it but im still getting moisture. Anyways, you guys are suggesting that a fuse or a short circuit could be the problem. Im not electronically savy so unless im walked through this, where could i get this fixed. The main fix i guess is also to make sure i have a tight seal so this wont happen again.

Thanks again guys for the insight and help guys.

 

If i were working on this, the first thing i would do is rule out if it is something in the wiring causing the high beam to stay on or just the shudder sticking open. Do this by removing the head light housing and checking to see if there is voltage getting to the shudder. FSM says to check it at the connector that you unplug to remove the head light. If you have voltage there, only when high beams are engaged, then check it at the shudder inside the head light housing where it plugs into the the shudder. You can use a 2 dollar test light for that or a 10 dollar volt/ohm meter. If you have voltage all the time then it is not the shudder solenoid if you don't then it is the solenoid.

If it is the shudder solenoid then it has to be replaced. Most mechanics and dealerships will say just to replace the whole head light assembly. You are not afraid to bake them so i think you should be able to replace this yourself if not maybe a closer member could help you out.

If it is in the wiring, it should be an easier fix. Just re-run the wiring to the headlight assembly for the shudder control. We are talking two feet of wire max since it runs from the IPDM(fuse box) located next to the windshield washer under the beauty cover.

 

If it's not a wire/voltage issue, you can check if the high beam shield is stuck by removing the bulb and looking through the projector. If the shield looks like this _______/-------- then the shield isn't stuck, but if it looks like this ---\______/--- then it is.

 

Nifty graphic.

 

^^^ Mine recently did the same thing except on the opposite side. Take the headlights out and find something to gently pull the outer side of the shutter towards you. It will free it up and make it able to be switched again. My drivers side was stuck on high while the passenger was on low. The passenger would not switch because the drivers was not able to. I played around with them for a little then noticed the shutter. Fixed mine 100%

 

Hey kc glad to see you. Been a while.

 

Good info guys, thanks a lot. I Finally have a few days off to try and tinker with this. At least I have some options as oppose to buying a whole new headlight assembly. I really appreciate the help. Wish me luck

 

Forgot to ask, do you have halogen or HID headlights?

 

Just an update on the issue...totally resovled it. took KCs advice and messed with the shutter. It came loose and the shutter opens and closes just fine now.
thanks everyone. sorry to bump this thread. Just had to give thanx for the great advice.

 

Hi folks, brand new here, so let me know if I need to start a new thread for this.

I am having the exact opposite problem of blackmax85. My passenger side headlamp shutter will not go to highbeam position. I have opened the assembly and removed the bulb, and depressed the shutter with a screwdriver. it moves very freely with no resistance and springs back into place upon releasing pressure.

I assume this means it is not receiving voltage??? A service employee at a parts store told me that it might be the ballast? Although, it doesn't look like the ballast connects to the shudder. Does anyone know the best way to troubleshoot this and exactly which wires I might be dealing with?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

 

Check fuse's #38 and #40 in the IPDM. Remove the beauty cover on the passenger side to access.

 

yup, #40 was blown. I replaced it, and it blew again after I clicked over to highbeams a few times. So what does that mean? bad wire somewhere between the IPDM and the shutter?

 

I've tested the wiring up to the shutter's solenoid. I think the solenoid is shorted as it is providing no resistance. anyone know if there is a way to repair or replace this solenoid?

If its not fixable, I have to buy an all new headlight assembly which is overtly expensive because of the HID setup.

 

I have some OEM projectors at home, I'll take a look later to see if they are replaceable or not. If it comes down to it, you do NOT need to replace the whole headlight assembly, you only need to replace the projector which is easily removable. You can find the projectors either on eBay (although their condition would be highly questionable) or at theretrofitsource.com (not available on the website but if you contact them directly they can easily get it for you) by looking for Maxima E55 projectors. Shouldn't cost anymore than $75, but if the solenoid is replaceable it'll be even cheaper.

BTW, are you doing a short test or measuring the actual resistance of the solenoid?

 

Awesome info, thank-you. I took the projector to a few places and nobody (including the dealership) even knew what to call it. I see several things pop up when I search for E55 projectors and they look exactly like what I need.

About the testing...honestly, I am not an electrical guy so I don't know what you mean by a short test. I tested the wiring for voltage by turning the highbeam switch on and using a multimeter on each connection and found around 11.5 volts coming through at each connection. I took the projector to a local auto shop and they tested the solenoid. They were the ones that told me it wasnt producing any resistance.

Thanks for your help. I have friends looking into rewiring the solenoid with a DC Relay from Radio Shack. Does anyone else know how to go about doing this? I imagine I'll just end up buying a new projector to save the trouble.

 

If your going to buy a new projector. Theretrofitsource.com has a DIRECT drop in and upgrade from your factory projectors. Named EVO-R the cutoff is straight and true, and they hand pick and hand align and test everything that leaves their shop. They aren't too pricey at 130 a PAIR!! But they come with an unbeatable warranty as well, where usually the junk you buy off ebay comes with a 7-day warranty, and is usually missing something. Or has a burnt bowl. While your there and if you DO order them pick up a pair of new bulbs to go with them.

 

If you're replacing the entire projector, search specifically for Maxima E55 projectors as they have a special foreground shield, OR you can dremel out the welds that hold the shield to the projector and bolt it to the new one. I checked the E55's I had at home and the solenoid is somewhat replaceable, but you'd have to dremel out a few welds, split the two halves of the projector, and bolt the projector back together. Not sure if that's something you'd want to do.

By short test, I mean what setting on a multimeter was used. There's a short circuit test and a resistance measurement. I was just asking because the solenoid would likely show a short circuit if you're using the short circuit setting since the resistance of a solenoid is generally low. An actual resistance measurement would be better in this case. Have you tested the voltage on the high beam connection WITHOUT the solenoid connected? Just want to make sure the high beam wires aren't shorted anywhere. If the solenoid is bad, then it's bad, adding a relay to it won't help anything and in fact could make the situation worse.

I'm actually running EvoX-R's right now. Yes they are directly swappable with the E55's. It depends on what he wants, if he just wants to replace that one projector, he can get one for fairly cheap from theretrofitsource. If he wants to replace both, the EvoX-R's are a good replacement, although because they're aftermarket there are pros and cons.

 

i just got new led switch back and everytime i put on my blinkers the high beam comes on how to fix this bigger relay ?? 2007 maxima

 

Connect your load resistors to the correct wires.

 

Just to add to the information. Resistors should be connected to both the blue and orange/red wires only. Resistor itself should be 6 ohms if you have LED tail lights. 3ohms without.

 

thanks for the info... im currently dealing with this issue

 

Hi, I was having a problem with my drivers side headlight in my 1997 Maxima for a few months. I replaced the socket three times due to melting. Recently the head light went off again and I could get it to flash back on/off when I fooled with the wires. Thinking it was the same problem I replaced the socket again. This time something went wrong. I must have crossed the wires. Now I have no light on that side. The high beam alert(blue dash light) does not show either.( is this on a separate fuse?) I have normal operation on the passenger side with high beam, low beam, but the drivers side is dead as well as the dash hi beam alert. I read about the fuse under the hood and will check that, but I would like to know if these symptoms are showing something deeper than a fuse. The housing is not leaking nor retaining moisture.If I replace the housing and harness with one from Pull a Part will that do the trick provided I connect the wires correctly? Any opinion is much appreciated. This forum is awesome. I hope you all have a great day. Thank you