6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

Just bought EBC USR Sport Slotted Rotors + EBC Redstuff

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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #1  
anwar1337's Avatar
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Just bought EBC USR Sport Slotted Rotors + EBC Redstuff

Sup everyone, I haven't been here in a while, but I came to post about this incase anyone was wondering about this setup on the Maxi.

I have EBC Redstuff pads already on the maxima, but the stock front rotors got warped, so I have to get new Front Rotors + Pads.

So I bought these : @ $165 for a Front Set

http://mudflaps.com/i-7255683-ebc-br...ted-rotor.html

and only $75 for a set of Front Pads of the EBC Redstuff.

I just bought them a few hours ago, will probably get them installed next weekend.

For anyone wondering, the EBC Redstuff pads definitely made braking way better on the Maxi
----

Side note, I have changed the brakes on the Maxima before, but never the Rotors.

From 1-10 for a kinda know how guy, how hard is it?
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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i would give it a 3-4. not a hard job
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 04:55 PM
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Get ready to change you brake pads on a regular basis! I would recommend cross-drilled, Vented, over-sized, cadmium plating with zinced rotorhubs. Cross-drilled are good when it rains. It depends it you live in a wet climate. Slotted discs is like buying a shaving kit. Everytime you brake your rotors will also shave a layer off the brake pads! LOL!
Old Apr 7, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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I just bought the EBC dimpled/slotted rotors and Red Stuff too! Fronts and rears, just waiting for my SS lines to be delivered and hopefully I can install them in the next week or two.
Old Apr 7, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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just did my rotors and pads all around yesterday. hardest part was breaking loose the rears, but thats because they were very caked with junk. a clean set would come off pretty easy.
Old Apr 8, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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You got the same setup I put on 20k miles ago. **** will stop on a dime. Keep in mind that the redstuff pads grip more after warming up. When it is below 40 degrees you will notice it. Braking on snow the first few times almost got me when I was coming to a long slow stop on the brakes lightly and they all the sudden just grabbed and the ABS started trying to stop the car. Just let the wheels unlock and lightly get back on the brakes.

If you can not get the rotors off the rear, disengage the parking brake. If they still do not come off then tap the rotors with a hammer. If they still won't come off then the parking brake needs to be loosened more. Take out the black rubber plugs in the rear rotors and with a flat tip screw driver turn the gear inside to release the parking brake completely. When the new rotors are on tighten the parking brake back up. Turn the gear inside the motor until the brake catches then back it off two or three clicks.
Old Apr 8, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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Have the same setup, but on a 5.5 gen, they are great, just get ready for a wheel bearing like noise when stopping
Old Apr 13, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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Haha noise is cool with me, as long as it stops wonderfully.

@Xorbitman, I purposefully did not buy the cross drilled rotors because i read over and over again how they are so much more prone to cracking, especially at the size the manufacturer has to make the rotors for the 6th gen Maxima. I live in Oklahoma, and our summers are ~ 110*F, so no thanks on a cracked rotor. As far as a "razorblade" I think thats quite an exaggeration. However, if it is so, these RED STUFF pad's last so long on normal rotors, they will probably last like a normal pad with slotted rotors.

I just got the rotors today. HOLY CRAP they are heavy LOL... they look... so beautiful, I wish they would stay black. ;(

Did you all who have these rotors use brake cleaner/iso alcohol on the rotor surface prior to burning them in? or is that not necessary with these? I know they have a cadmium coating that is supposed to come off as time goes on, but I was wondering if I needed to do anything ?
Old May 5, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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Just installed mine today, took the SS lines 3 weeks to deliver but it's all good. I also painted the calipers with G2 Orange Caliper Paint.

Stock vs. EBC Rotors:



Before:



After:



Another Angle:

Old May 5, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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Off topic. Your car is begging for a drop man.
Old May 5, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gatsugansu
Off topic. Your car is begging for a drop man.
Yeah, that's next on my list. I think I'll go with the Tein basic coilovers in a couple of months... or sooner
Old May 13, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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A drop and the wheels should have been left stock .
Old May 14, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by smittybizzle
A drop and the wheels should have been left stock .
I'm aching for a drop. As for the wheels, I'm going with a black-on-white theme for my car. I also have window tint and a c-mod grille.


So it's been a week and half or so since the rotors/pads were installed and I can tell there's a noticeable increase in braking ability. It responds sooner (probably due to bleeding the brakes) but also feels like it responds better. The instructions that came with the rotors said not to brake harshly for the first 1000 miles so I'm going easy/normal on the brakes until then.
Old May 14, 2012 | 06:45 PM
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You bed them in yet?
Old May 18, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by xorbitman
Get ready to change you brake pads on a regular basis! I would recommend cross-drilled, Vented, over-sized, cadmium plating with zinced rotorhubs. Cross-drilled are good when it rains. It depends it you live in a wet climate. Slotted discs is like buying a shaving kit. Everytime you brake your rotors will also shave a layer off the brake pads! LOL!
You should call Stoptech, makers of some of the most high end rotors on earth, and tell them they are doing things wrong.

If the slot is chamfered along it's edges it will not dig in to the pad. Cross drilling is prone to cracking due to micro-fissures created during the drilling process and heat cycles. Porsche uses cast holes in their rotors, the only way to avoid this problem.

All I know is avoid PBR Ceramic pads, mine squeal like crazy and are driving me bonkers. It's not the install.

Last edited by QwikKota; May 21, 2012 at 10:21 AM.
Old May 18, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by xorbitman
Get ready to change you brake pads on a regular basis! I would recommend cross-drilled, Vented, over-sized, cadmium plating with zinced rotorhubs. Cross-drilled are good when it rains. It depends it you live in a wet climate. Slotted discs is like buying a shaving kit. Everytime you brake your rotors will also shave a layer off the brake pads! LOL!
Just getting ready to pwn you until I saw....

Originally Posted by QwikKota
You should call Stoptech, makers of some of the most high end rotors on earth, and tell them they are doing things wrong.

If the slot is chamfered along it's edges it will not dig in to the pad. Cross drilling is prone to cracking due to micro-fissures created during the drilling process and heat cycles. Porsche uses cast holes in their rotors, the only way to avoid this problem.

All I know is avoid Hawk HPS pads, mine squeal like crazy and are driving me bonkers. It's not the install.
I wouldn't have wasted my time in explaining besides just insulting him, bravo for being the bigger man.

Last edited by aackshun; May 18, 2012 at 02:50 PM.
Old May 21, 2012 | 10:23 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by aackshun
Just getting ready to pwn you until I saw....



I wouldn't have wasted my time in explaining besides just insulting him, bravo for being the bigger man.
Well I am sure some moron (generalization) in the past with a cutting wheel did it himself in the garage and wore out pads quickly due to the edge being sharp. It needs to be deburred or chamfered. I have Stoptechs on my truck with Viper calipers, they are the bomb. Edited post above, the pads I have on the Max are PBR's not Hawks. They will be going in the trash ASAP.
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