RnAoDm

Hey everyone,

I'm going to be replacing my rear rotors/pads (and possibly the fronts) soon and I was looking for a guide online I could follow since I've never done it before. I've come across this one but the pictures are all gone: http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...rake-pads.html

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

L36

iTrader: (4)

Clean your ABS sensors really well while doing em.

Kryogen

um, remove the wheel, remove the caliper, remove the rotor, put new where old was, re-bolt.

If you need to know how to unbolt your caliper or rotor, maybe you should not be doing this?

Remove the wheel and look.

Oh good, there are 2 bolts holding the caliper, maybe if I remove them.... oh ya, caliper comes out.
Oh wait, the rotor seems to be blocked by that piece of junk metal... maybe if I unbolted it I could remove my rotor?

jesus.

Why didnt you ask hor to refill windshield washer liquid?

Max-Maxima

Who is this *******?

Jgreen0877

it's a pretty basic job. just 2 bolts really, don't rmb if the maxima requires the lube on the brake pads so it doesn't squeal but put some on just incase so u don't have to go back in there twice. also have the piston tool to push the piston back on the caliper it will make life easier.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

piston tool is win or else have some tough finger. Like this http://www.mechanicstoolsupply.com/1..._p_15961.html#

Jgreen0877

nvr seen that one. i've always used the old school one with the clamp. not a bad price tho to be able to use a ratchet

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

its more meant for a mechanic as it has various sizes but its a good price regardless. I use my fingers lol

Kryogen

just use a c clamp with the old pad on the piston to push in the center. or use a screwdriver on the old pad against the rotor.

RnAoDm

What the **** is your problem?


Everyone else, thanks!

Muhib

need to change my brakes soon. Are ceramic pads good? Sorry for noob question.

Looking into this set of F+R rotors and pads.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Nissan-Maxima...2e893d&vxp=mtr

vbtinfo

Hmm, unless 6th gen has a different design for rear brakes than 4th and 5th gen (please, correct me if this is the case) don't use a c-clamp in rear or you will damage rear calipers - pistons there are threaded; so you'll have to screw them back in, not push them in... Front calipers are regular however, so c-clamp is OK.

Edit: here is a a simpler tool for rears: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...fier=2363_0_0_

Kryogen

DO YOU SEE THAT I HAVE ****ING 1140 ****ing posts here, and I,ve been here for 5 years, and you have 4? and then you say that you DONT KNOW **** ABOUT 6th gen brakes, and then you tell me that I don't know how to change the ****ign pads on my brakes?

get a life.

vbtinfo

Wow, didn't I say "unless 6th gen uses different rear brakes design", and politely asked to correct me, if this not the case? I've seen people on 4th and 5th gens ruining their rear calipers left and right using c-clamps, so it was just a word of a caution to the OP, not to you; especially, that the link the OP provided was mentioning a special tool.

acercomp71

To OP- sorry to disappoint you, but proper brake job is a lot more than just swapping pads and/or rotors. Rear caliper brackets tend to form corrosion inside pin sleeves. If that's the case, you will need replacement bracketsPM Same with lower pins. New hardware, bushings may be required. Whole set of hardware (excluding calipers) can run you around $150 or more for all 4 brakes. Calipers may or may not be sticking. If you replaced a caliper, bleeding is required. Parking brake may need adjustment because rotors inner diameter may be slightly different from OEM's.
If you have never done basic repairs, I would recommend hiring a professional to do your brakes, it is a safety concern.

RnAoDm

You seriously need to see a counsellor or something...

Thanks for the advice. In the past I have replaced struts/shocks, as well as replaced my clutch/flywheel (both on my previous vehicle). Brakes is just something that never came up with the cars I've owned so I don't have experience doing it. Will it be obvious by looking at the hardware that there is an issue with it? Like the pins, etc..?

Muhib

acercomp71

From what I remember, O'reiley's has best prices on brake hardware. I do not work for them, just trying to save you time and hassle searching for parts. If you want to perform repairs quickly without endless trips to the store, and waiting for parts that are not available "i.e. special order", I recommend buying everything online. Things you may need are basically everything except calipers since the car is not crazy old, calipers probably sill work ok. So you may need pads, rotors, pins, rubber bushings, and rear caliper brackets. Remember YOU CAN always return parts you don't need back to local O"reileys, no need to ship anything back. Upon disassembly, you would have to carefully examine everytning. If you see stuck pin in caliper bracket, chances are, corrosion formed inside the sleeve, that means, bracket needs replacement, same with pins. Don't bother cleaning pins as others suggest, it is time consuming becasuse of rust bild up and pins are just about 3 bucks each brand new. Brackets are 35 bucks per side (rear). Pads retaining clips tend to wear out as well due to heat and friction, especially if there was lack of lubrication. Rotors may be worn out to the point when you can't turn them, or have excessive play. I believe limits are 26 mm for the front and 8 mm for the rears. Do not use metallic pads or whatever crazy crap they sell on ebay, they will eat your rotors before you know it. Set of rotors can run for around $100-$150. Use normal basic rotors, all that drilled and slotted stuff will eat your pads. You can buy everytning you need for less than 150 EXCLUDING pads, rotors, and calipers with free shipping. They run a promo with free ship if you buy for $100 or more. Just bring back what you don't need and you are all set.

acercomp71

If replacing rear rotors, make sure PARKING brake shoes do not drag or too far from the rotor. Why? Because new rotors may have slightly different inside diameter from OEM's. This is done by turning adjustment wheel to the point when the rotor is locked, and then rotating it back 5-7 clicks. Parking brake should be disengaged of course (remeber to put transmission on park and chock all the wheels that are still on ground). Do this before you put brake pads on so you can have accurate feel. Pads, when installed will drag a rotor a bit and it is normal. Do not confuse brake pads with PARKING brake shoes.

Kryogen

rear caliper slide pins rust badly. had to use a brass brush on a drill to clean the insides. wire brush the pin.
And then apply a ****load of silicone lube.
Reapply lube at least every year or face rust freeze....

acercomp71

I don't think you can clean insides of bracket sleeve without messing with its shape, same with pins, but hey, whatever works for you. I would just replace parts and get it over with. Bracket is $35, which is not even tank of gas, pins are 3 or 5 bucks each, they are sold 2 per wheel. While you there, swap rubber bushings and pad retaning clips. Duralast Cmax from autozone pads come with clips already by the way, but double check with them.

On a side note, these are just suggestions for a proper brake job, many people just swap pads and get it back together. As you can imagine, soon enough they get sticking calipers, or slide pins, or pads don't want to move because of worn retaining clips etc. Everything should freely "float" there for proper operation. Rotor has to be true and have min thickness per FSM specs as well, or it gets hot too quickly and eventually warps.

Muhib

I will get a proper brake job. But I need to know if there is a spicific name for the parts bolded in the post above. The reason I ask, because I would get em from ebay.

Please no bashing, still a noob when it comes to Maxima

Also what is the size of the rotors? Need to ensure I get the proper size before buying them.

Kryogen

where do you get pins for 3 bucks each?

acercomp71

from oreileys, they are sold in pairs and pair is $3.99 for the rear part #H5071 and $6.99 for the front, part# 14138

RnAoDm

Just an update...

I've decided on the parts and made the purchase. I got Raybestos Advanced Technology Pads, and Rotors. Also got Raybestos hardware and their 'drag reduction clip'. Does anyone have experience with their parts? I guess it's too late now, but I heard good things so went ahead and purchased. For some odd reason I like the idea of having the same brand rotors/pads.

Here is the part numbers and amazon links for anyone that is interested (I actually bought them from rockauto.com)

Front Rotor:
Rear Rotor:
Front Pads:
Rear Pads:
Front Hardware Kit:
Rear Hardware Kit:
Drag Reduction Clip (maybe a gimmick, but it's cheap):

Should have the parts by next weekend and be able to do the install then

Kryogen

What was the issue with your rotors?
My rotors have 115K miles are still oem and fine and thick enough.
my father in law has a pickup truck with 250k miles and oem rotors of appropriate thickness.

acercomp71

On these models rotors do tend to warp prematurely, especially with agressive braking and/or hard pads. Classic symptom is vibration while braking, yes they can be still thick within specs, but still not perfect, aka "rotors play". I also highly doubt rotors can last 250K, or maybe parts were better quality parts back then.

RnAoDm

The rotors in the back were are done, getting lots of vibration in the back and some kick back on the pedal while braking. The rotors in the front are fine, but I've decided just to replace it all anyway...

RnAoDm

Hi guys,

Just got a question regarding brake lube and brake anti-squeal. Is the anti-squeal stuff necessary to put on when doing the brakes? The pads have shims, so I don't think this is needed? Also, what areas need to be lubed? Any recommendations on brands, etc..?

Kryogen

apply greae to back of pads, pivot point. thats it.

loosepiston

Very important. The pads must slide easily to ensure proper and even wear.
You should also grease the two bolts that hold the caliper (identified with #5) such that the caliper is free to "float" over the disk.



Don't forget the in-bedding process.

1. From about 30mph moderately brake to 5mph
2. Repeat step 1 four times (this is to build up heat and seat the pads)
3. From 50mph apply maximum brakes, just shy of the ABS kicking in
4. Repeat step 3
5. Drive home normally and let the car cool off

As you are squeeze the caliper cylinders to fit the new pads, don't forget to keep an eye out for the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. If it overflows, brake fluid is VERY corrosive.