performance chips
03-01-2014, 11:47 PM
#2
http://uprev.com/secure/management.html Best tune for nissan that is not independent. You could get a piggy back like AEM or Hypertech.
03-02-2014, 05:21 PM
#3
Most if not all are just money grabbers or just some form of resister tricking the ecu into dumping in more fuel. If your going that route best bet is to get it dyno'd and custom tuned. They store the tune to a chip and solder it onto the board in your ecu replacing the stock chip.
03-02-2014, 05:49 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
It is not like Audi, where flashing the ecu with an aggressive program will gain you an instant 30-40 hp. First of all, maximas are already tuned to be aggressive, there isn't that much more to gain.
Second, we are naturally aspirated, we do not have the ability to manipulate our engine management system as extensively as other cars such as the audi 1.8 Turbo A4. You can bring in an A4 hand the dyno man 600 bucks and drive home with a significantly faster car. You can also do this with muscle cars. This modification is not effective with our cars as opposed to the two examples I gave you.
Third, IF you were dead set on getting your car tuned up it is pointless to do anything until you have all the bolt on mods already on your car. The point in tuning your car is to allow your car to utilize the full extent of your modifications. If you don't have all your modifications, you have nothing to tune.
Listen man, I am telling you like i did in your other thread. You will be spending at the very minimum $3,000.00 to feel a difference in engine performance on a maxima.
Performance list:
Racing line hi flow precats: $505.00
Cold air intake: $150.00-$250.00
Performance Y-pipe: $280.00
Cat back exhaust: $350.00-$650.00
Thermal spacers $225.00
Tuning module $500.00-$700.00
Cattman headers $630.00
These are all the most significant mods you can get for the maxima.
You will not feel any difference at all with just one or two of these mods. Some members say they do, and they may be right, but they also may be wrong and just stuck in the placebo effect. In any case, it is only worth the money shown up above when the results are vast and significant and the difference is irrefutable. If you were to get all of these mods done at the same time, you will feel an undeniable difference in performance. BUT
A: that will cost you $3,240.00 not including another $1,500.00-$2,000.00 in labor to instal and tune these mods.
B: the difference is not much. Yes my bet is you would feel the difference on the butt dyno but it's not enough for the $$. It will not put you into a new league. The maxima is not a tuner car bro.
C: my advice. If you are like me you are going to ignore everything I said and learn this all the hard way. So to make every dollar go as far as you can, I will give you the best advice for our cars.
Nissan already made our cars fast, the parts are made with performance in mind so get aftermarket parts don't do much. However there is still one thing you can do with these cars. Weight reduction! Our cars have big heavy parts. Out of every single mod available for our maximas (other than turbo or NO2) the one mod that will give you the most noticeable difference is swapping out the rims for light ones. The rims we have stock are HEAVY. There is a reason for it but they are still responsible for preventing a good amount of HP to the wheels. It is called rotational inertia. You want to lessen its resistance to move. The lighter the wheels the more performance you will get out of them.
I grabbed a set of rims that weighed 16lbs each. The stock rims we have are 55lbs each. By swapping out my 55lbs rims, eliminating my 5th full size spare with the tire weighing an additional ~20 lbs, I dropped about 231 lbs. This weight drop is SIGNIFICANT, trust me. I also deleted my resonator with was another 30+ lbs, cut out the heavy stock piping from my headers all the way back to my mufflers another 10-15 lbs less. took out my trunk carpet (5lbs) cut out the dirt packed matting in my wheel wells (30-40 lbs). The weight drop in my car is over 300lbs. This makes my car lighter than the 5 gens and significantly faster than before.
Next go ahead and get yourself a good CAI and exhaust system. Other than that you will be wasting your money man.
If you love your maxima and are hell bent on making this car your sleeper, you need to forget about the other modifications and save up for a turbo charger. This will give you exactly what you are looking for. But the kit itself is $5,500.00 and labor is going to be another $1,500.00-$2,000.00.
There are other types of performance gains you can get and that is suspension. With some strut braces, lowering springs, wider rims or wheel spacers, maybe some traction rods and end links, and a beefy sway bar you can really take the maxima to a new level suspension wise.
Last edited by twentyeggs; 03-02-2014 at 06:04 PM.
03-02-2014, 05:54 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
Most if not all are just money grabbers or just some form of resister tricking the ecu into dumping in more fuel. If your going that route best bet is to get it dyno'd and custom tuned. They store the tune to a chip and solder it onto the board in your ecu replacing the stock chip.
03-02-2014, 07:37 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 40
Do not do it. The maxima does not get any noticeable gains from tuning. You will be spending well over 1000 dollars to tune your car and you will not feel any different AT ALL. The unit is 500-700 dollars, and unless you know how to tune a car you will also need a dyno tune which is an additional 600-700 dollars.
It is not like Audi, where flashing the ecu with an aggressive program will gain you an instant 30-40 hp. First of all, maximas are already tuned to be aggressive, there isn't that much more to gain.
Second, we are naturally aspirated, we do not have the ability to manipulate our engine management system as extensively as other cars such as the audi 1.8 Turbo A4. You can bring in an A4 hand the dyno man 600 bucks and drive home with a significantly faster car. You can also do this with muscle cars. This modification is not effective with our cars as opposed to the two examples I gave you.
Third, IF you were dead set on getting your car tuned up it is pointless to do anything until you have all the bolt on mods already on your car. The point in tuning your car is to allow your car to utilize the full extent of your modifications. If you don't have all your modifications, you have nothing to tune.
Listen man, I am telling you like i did in your other thread. You will be spending at the very minimum $3,000.00 to feel a difference in engine performance on a maxima.
Performance list:
Racing line hi flow precats: $505.00
Cold air intake: $150.00-$250.00
Performance Y-pipe: $280.00
Cat back exhaust: $350.00-$650.00
Thermal spacers $225.00
Tuning module $500.00-$700.00
Cattman headers $630.00
These are all the most significant mods you can get for the maxima.
You will not feel any difference at all with just one or two of these mods. Some members say they do, and they may be right, but they also may be wrong and just stuck in the placebo effect. In any case, it is only worth the money shown up above when the results are vast and significant and the difference is irrefutable. If you were to get all of these mods done at the same time, you will feel an undeniable difference in performance. BUT
A: that will cost you $3,240.00 not including another $1,500.00-$2,000.00 in labor to instal and tune these mods.
B: the difference is not much. Yes my bet is you would feel the difference on the butt dyno but it's not enough for the $$. It will not put you into a new league. The maxima is not a tuner car bro.
C: my advice. If you are like me you are going to ignore everything I said and learn this all the hard way. So to make every dollar go as far as you can, I will give you the best advice for our cars.
Nissan already made our cars fast, the parts are made with performance in mind so get aftermarket parts don't do much. However there is still one thing you can do with these cars. Weight reduction! Our cars have big heavy parts. Out of every single mod available for our maximas (other than turbo or NO2) the one mod that will give you the most noticeable difference is swapping out the rims for light ones. The rims we have stock are HEAVY. There is a reason for it but they are still responsible for preventing a good amount of HP to the wheels. It is called rotational inertia. You want to lessen its resistance to move. The lighter the wheels the more performance you will get out of them.
I grabbed a set of rims that weighed 16lbs each. The stock rims we have are 55lbs each. By swapping out my 55lbs rims, eliminating my 5th full size spare with the tire weighing an additional ~20 lbs, I dropped about 231 lbs. This weight drop is SIGNIFICANT, trust me. I also deleted my resonator with was another 30+ lbs, cut out the heavy stock piping from my headers all the way back to my mufflers another 10-15 lbs less. took out my trunk carpet (5lbs) cut out the dirt packed matting in my wheel wells (30-40 lbs). The weight drop in my car is over 300lbs. This makes my car lighter than the 5 gens and significantly faster than before.
Next go ahead and get yourself a good CAI and exhaust system. Other than that you will be wasting your money man.
If you love your maxima and are hell bent on making this car your sleeper, you need to forget about the other modifications and save up for a turbo charger. This will give you exactly what you are looking for. But the kit itself is $5,500.00 and labor is going to be another $1,500.00-$2,000.00.
There are other types of performance gains you can get and that is suspension. With some strut braces, lowering springs, wider rims or wheel spacers, maybe some traction rods and end links, and a beefy sway bar you can really take the maxima to a new level suspension wise.
It is not like Audi, where flashing the ecu with an aggressive program will gain you an instant 30-40 hp. First of all, maximas are already tuned to be aggressive, there isn't that much more to gain.
Second, we are naturally aspirated, we do not have the ability to manipulate our engine management system as extensively as other cars such as the audi 1.8 Turbo A4. You can bring in an A4 hand the dyno man 600 bucks and drive home with a significantly faster car. You can also do this with muscle cars. This modification is not effective with our cars as opposed to the two examples I gave you.
Third, IF you were dead set on getting your car tuned up it is pointless to do anything until you have all the bolt on mods already on your car. The point in tuning your car is to allow your car to utilize the full extent of your modifications. If you don't have all your modifications, you have nothing to tune.
Listen man, I am telling you like i did in your other thread. You will be spending at the very minimum $3,000.00 to feel a difference in engine performance on a maxima.
Performance list:
Racing line hi flow precats: $505.00
Cold air intake: $150.00-$250.00
Performance Y-pipe: $280.00
Cat back exhaust: $350.00-$650.00
Thermal spacers $225.00
Tuning module $500.00-$700.00
Cattman headers $630.00
These are all the most significant mods you can get for the maxima.
You will not feel any difference at all with just one or two of these mods. Some members say they do, and they may be right, but they also may be wrong and just stuck in the placebo effect. In any case, it is only worth the money shown up above when the results are vast and significant and the difference is irrefutable. If you were to get all of these mods done at the same time, you will feel an undeniable difference in performance. BUT
A: that will cost you $3,240.00 not including another $1,500.00-$2,000.00 in labor to instal and tune these mods.
B: the difference is not much. Yes my bet is you would feel the difference on the butt dyno but it's not enough for the $$. It will not put you into a new league. The maxima is not a tuner car bro.
C: my advice. If you are like me you are going to ignore everything I said and learn this all the hard way. So to make every dollar go as far as you can, I will give you the best advice for our cars.
Nissan already made our cars fast, the parts are made with performance in mind so get aftermarket parts don't do much. However there is still one thing you can do with these cars. Weight reduction! Our cars have big heavy parts. Out of every single mod available for our maximas (other than turbo or NO2) the one mod that will give you the most noticeable difference is swapping out the rims for light ones. The rims we have stock are HEAVY. There is a reason for it but they are still responsible for preventing a good amount of HP to the wheels. It is called rotational inertia. You want to lessen its resistance to move. The lighter the wheels the more performance you will get out of them.
I grabbed a set of rims that weighed 16lbs each. The stock rims we have are 55lbs each. By swapping out my 55lbs rims, eliminating my 5th full size spare with the tire weighing an additional ~20 lbs, I dropped about 231 lbs. This weight drop is SIGNIFICANT, trust me. I also deleted my resonator with was another 30+ lbs, cut out the heavy stock piping from my headers all the way back to my mufflers another 10-15 lbs less. took out my trunk carpet (5lbs) cut out the dirt packed matting in my wheel wells (30-40 lbs). The weight drop in my car is over 300lbs. This makes my car lighter than the 5 gens and significantly faster than before.
Next go ahead and get yourself a good CAI and exhaust system. Other than that you will be wasting your money man.
If you love your maxima and are hell bent on making this car your sleeper, you need to forget about the other modifications and save up for a turbo charger. This will give you exactly what you are looking for. But the kit itself is $5,500.00 and labor is going to be another $1,500.00-$2,000.00.
There are other types of performance gains you can get and that is suspension. With some strut braces, lowering springs, wider rims or wheel spacers, maybe some traction rods and end links, and a beefy sway bar you can really take the maxima to a new level suspension wise.
03-02-2014, 08:19 PM
#8
03-03-2014, 11:56 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
The IAT sensor bypass is a sweet little mod you can do. Do you notice how your car runs fast when it is colder outside. There are two reasons for this. One is the air is denser as cold molecules shake less and allow themselves to be packed in smaller spaces. When they undergo detonation there is more mass creating more energy in the combustion process. Two: your car runs rich when it is cold because there is more air per cubic inch coming in so the fuel must match. this combo creates a much more powerful combustion cycle. By tricking the sensor you allow your car to give you a more saturated fuel:air ratio which under wide open throttle with some high octane seems to give them maxima a little bit more power.
It doesn't work much on newer cars because engineers have squeezed out all margins in the name of efficiency. But you can get the resister for under 5 bucks and while the difference is still negligible all by itself but for the price its way worth it IMO.
03-03-2014, 01:16 PM
#10
in reality the air temp sensor does not gain you any horse power. it tells the ecu how dense air is by temperature. the ecu relates more to the coolant temp when changing the fuel ratio and the air temp adjust more precise.
the optimum power to be created is at 13:1 too lean and your cooking **** too rich and your wasting fuel.
even if it was 55 degrees air temp. the ecu will look at coolant temp and modify its parameters by it not air temp.
the optimum power to be created is at 13:1 too lean and your cooking **** too rich and your wasting fuel.
even if it was 55 degrees air temp. the ecu will look at coolant temp and modify its parameters by it not air temp.
03-03-2014, 06:24 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
in reality the air temp sensor does not gain you any horse power. it tells the ecu how dense air is by temperature. the ecu relates more to the coolant temp when changing the fuel ratio and the air temp adjust more precise.
the optimum power to be created is at 13:1 too lean and your cooking **** too rich and your wasting fuel.
even if it was 55 degrees air temp. the ecu will look at coolant temp and modify its parameters by it not air temp.
the optimum power to be created is at 13:1 too lean and your cooking **** too rich and your wasting fuel.
even if it was 55 degrees air temp. the ecu will look at coolant temp and modify its parameters by it not air temp.
The intake air temp (IAT) sensor monitors the air temperature going into
the engine, and sends the data to the engine management computer.
The computer then adjusts fuel mixture to match some pre-set target
values, using the air temp data as input. The idea is to keep the
fuel mixture optimal in all driving conditions and climates.
They are both responsible for the adjustments of Air to fuel ratio.
The engine coolant temperature sensor only adjusts fuel injection and timing. It does not mess with A:F
03-03-2014, 07:22 PM
#12
you can get the resister for under 5 bucks and while the difference is still negligible all by itself but for the price its way worth it IMO.[/QUOTE]
Are you saying that this is a worth while mod that wouldn't cause any harm or be hard on the engine?
Are you saying that this is a worth while mod that wouldn't cause any harm or be hard on the engine?
03-03-2014, 10:43 PM
#15
So tell me how you are not changing the air fuel ratio when you change the pulse width.
On cold start up you always run rich due to open loop, ecu is looking at every other sensors but lambda based on a map that's why you feel more power. after warm up you go back to stoichiometric. and boom shes a lil flower again.
On cold start up you always run rich due to open loop, ecu is looking at every other sensors but lambda based on a map that's why you feel more power. after warm up you go back to stoichiometric. and boom shes a lil flower again.
03-04-2014, 05:42 PM
#16
dude, no... The MAF tells the ecu the density. It measures air flow by barametric pressure and humidity.
The intake air temp (IAT) sensor monitors the air temperature going into
the engine, and sends the data to the engine management computer.
The computer then adjusts fuel mixture to match some pre-set target
values, using the air temp data as input. The idea is to keep the
fuel mixture optimal in all driving conditions and climates.
They are both responsible for the adjustments of Air to fuel ratio.
The engine coolant temperature sensor only adjusts fuel injection and timing. It does not mess with A:F
The intake air temp (IAT) sensor monitors the air temperature going into
the engine, and sends the data to the engine management computer.
The computer then adjusts fuel mixture to match some pre-set target
values, using the air temp data as input. The idea is to keep the
fuel mixture optimal in all driving conditions and climates.
They are both responsible for the adjustments of Air to fuel ratio.
The engine coolant temperature sensor only adjusts fuel injection and timing. It does not mess with A:F
03-04-2014, 05:44 PM
#17
Do not do it. The maxima does not get any noticeable gains from tuning. You will be spending well over 1000 dollars to tune your car and you will not feel any different AT ALL. The unit is 500-700 dollars, and unless you know how to tune a car you will also need a dyno tune which is an additional 600-700 dollars.
03-04-2014, 10:20 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
and yes, I know some cars don't have an IAT sensor because it is integrated into the MAF, for example our 6th gens.
03-04-2014, 10:42 PM
#19
http://maxrpmmotorsports.com/services/#tab-id-3<--Place to get dyno done and tuned
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4541432<--Thread discussing cost of $50 for 3 dyno runs each car. The site does not show prices, so had to provide a thread instead. Also we are talking about a dyno tune, not a shop installing a chip in your car and tuning the chip. If that is what you are talking about, then yes 6-700 would be around the cost.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4541432<--Thread discussing cost of $50 for 3 dyno runs each car. The site does not show prices, so had to provide a thread instead. Also we are talking about a dyno tune, not a shop installing a chip in your car and tuning the chip. If that is what you are talking about, then yes 6-700 would be around the cost.
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