My ABS Pump has been running constantly for the past week. I have been pulling the fuse to prevent the battery from draining.

I haven't had any problems with my speedometer or the abs kicking in at low speeds.

Both of my rear calipers are starting to seize, and are being replaced within the week.

Is it possible for the pump to go bad without any other symptoms being present.

 

Just purchased a scanner capable of doing ABS the codes that came back were
-C1111 Pump Motor Circuit Fault
-C1140 ABS Actuator Relay Circuit Fault

So i'm guessing my ABS pump and relay are shot!!!

 

I knew it was the relay on the abs,get the abs relay from Nissan that will take care of the pump running on part.

 

REPAIR WORK HAS BEEN SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED!!!

No sensors were replaced or cleaned in the process. I bought a used ABS pump\relay from off of eBay. Below is a pic in case anyone wanted to know. Here are some tips for anyone who wants to try to attempt this type of repair work.

1. Find someone with an ABS scanner, and get ALL ABS CODES. There is no point in replacing just the pump if any of your sensors are bad as well
2. If you do think you need to replace the ABS pump\relay make sure you get the correct part number which can be found on the top of the part.
3. A brand new one from Nissan is gonna run you $1000+. Junkyard prices start at $100 on eBay. If you decide to get a used part make sure it comes with a warranty.
4. Have plenty of time to devote to the actual repair work. Its gonna take a minimum of 4 hours to do
5. Unless you plan on dropping the engine, your gonna have to remove the intake manifold. The ABS pump is located on the passenger side firewall, and there is virtually no room to work in there
6. Take pictures of where all of the lines, and sensors go. Everything becomes a blur when your all done, but you have 1 line loose, and you don't know where it goes.
7. BE EXTRA CAREFUL WITH ALL HARD LINES NEAR THE PUMP. You may think they are sturdy, but they really aren't meant to be moved to much. If something breaks you in for a bad time

After my uncle/mechanic and I got the pump in, we bleed the system by filling the main cylinder reservoir then opening each corner 1 at a time until the reservoir stopped draining, closing the caliper then filling it back up and moving to the next one. After that we went around the car 2-3 times doing a regular brake bleed process. You might need to do more or less, better to error on the side of caution. Once we were satisfied we checked for any other codes, and took a test drive

As I've stated, before this my ABS pump would stay on as long as the fuse was in place. I removed the ABS fuse located next to the battery to prevent the pump from draining my battery. !!!WARNING!!! This fuse also controls you power locks, windows, sunroof, trunk lock and turn signals from what I tell. It is a red combination fuse with 3 different fuses in it, with a clear plastic cover on top.

Below are pics of the ABS pump\relay (before you ask yes they come as 1 big part, and should not be seperated), the fuse cluster to remove if the abs pump is constantly running, and a video made by O.G.Nat-tral1 showing the process of replacing the ABS pump\relay

ABS Pump/Relay


Part# (The part number is located on the metal part of the pump directly in the center, the 2nd line of numbers)


Fuse Cluster (The red fuse in the upper-left corner is the one you need to remove


Video by O.G.Nat-tral1 showing the process of removing and installing an ABS pump

 

Thanks for this. Is there a way to buy that fuse separately? What to ask for? like part number or smth. And also how to remove old one. I did clipped abs motor fusible link only and now need to put it back, I guess they only way is to plug new red fuse. But dont know whats it called (part).
thanks for any input
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ABS fuse located next to the battery to prevent the pump from draining my battery. !!!WARNING!!! This fuse also controls you power locks, windows, sunroof, trunk lock and turn signals from what I tell. It is a red combination fuse with 3 different fuses in it, with a clear plastic cover on top.

Fuse Cluster (The red fuse in the upper-left corner is the one you need to remove

 

Your looking for a 50-30-30 fusible link PT# 24370-C9906
You can pick one up from Z1 Motorsports or I just removed the plastic top and pulled it out with a pair of needle nosed pliers