2008 maxima still having problems!!!
2008 maxima still having problems!!!
Okay. A few months ago I had a post about my 2008 Nissan Maxima with 125000 miles on it. Here's what I'm having issues with. Car was great no problems then out of the blue wouldn't start. Cranks over has spark but will not fire not getting fuel. Pop code for cam position sensor. Replace both camshaft position sensor as well as crankshaft position sensor first started drove to work want to move it at lunch wouldn't start. Car set at work for 4 days drag 2 or 3 times a day to turn the key see if she would fire with no start but again still crank over perfect with spark not getting fuel. After four days hit the chi fired right up drove it home no check engine light ran perfect no problems drove like it should. Later that night want to go to store would not start and hasn't since. Put brand new fuel pump in it as well as fuel pump relays. Still no start. Go to local garage because by this point in time I have no idea. Not a dummy one comes to cars but this has got me going crazy. So, Maxima was at the garage for one month owner said he had it inside twice trying to diagnose issues could not find the problem. So I towed it back home not wanting to take to dealership yet because afraid of how much will cost got to realize it's a two thousand eight hundred twenty five thousand miles dump a lot of money into it don't want to spend another 2,000 at dealer but don't want to have a $300 scrap car either. So after I got home ordered all new sensors because the ones I replaced previously were from AutoZone so I ordered all new Itachi from RockAuto installed them yesterday and still same issue. I'm thinking ECM. But I'm not sure any suggestions?
Timing not jumped. Originally 1st time put new sensors in (2 cam and 1 crank) bought at Autozone. Ran perfect 2 weeks every day . Then outta blue no start. 2 days go by it starts right up, fine day or two then same thing. Still no check engine light and everytime would start ALWAYS ran perfect. When no start, it always had spark, no fuel. Hasn't started in 2 months now, had at local shop for 1 of those months, he couldn't figure it out. So got it back put brand new fuel pump, fuel pump relay, all new (again) cam and crank sensors, bought OEM Hitachi this time, same results..... spark, no fuel. No juice going to fuel pump
What do you mean by "no juice going to the pump"? Have you checked for power and ground at the fuel pump? The pump should run for a few seconds at key on and then continuously when running (you can hear it when listening at the tank with the cap off and someone cycling the key for you).
Now I'm suspecting your intelligent key unit (P#285E1-ZK30B), which is somehow connected to the security system. It's probably failing. If it has an error code, it won't be displayed. You'd need a high-level tool to scan. If you return with U1010 error code then it would have to be replaced. Anyway, check first to ensure the connections are very well intact.
The I-Key unit is located under the dash to the right of the steering column.
The I-Key unit is located under the dash to the right of the steering column.
Last edited by Costee; Aug 28, 2019 at 01:39 AM.
Take the FSM, trace the electric diagram for the fuel pump power and ground and check both with a multimeter. I had a similar issue and it was the green fusebox relay called the ECM relay. It tortured me for 1 full year with intermittend stall and no start. Replaced the relay and it was fine for many years. Just trace where the fuel pump power comes from and see what is involved. Chances are it is a relay.
If it was the immobilizer, then there would be a flashing green key on the dash. Do you see any?
If it was the immobilizer, then there would be a flashing green key on the dash. Do you see any?
This Maxima has the intelli key when get in the car push on the brake it recognizes the signal and green key flashes on dash . Turn the ignition switch forward to start it , it cranks over perfect . like I said has spark no fuel. If immobilizer was issue would ignition still turn over without key in it? Also if that was issue would it still have spark and not fuel? Or would immobilizer issue not allow Spark?I would think it would not recognize and not allow you to turn the ignition switch but I could be wrong.
I just read someone's post that's asked if green light was on dash. Yes comes on then shuts off. I will check the ECM relay tomorrow this thing just got me so frustrated.On a good note, Love our 2018 Maxima though! Just gotta figure out this dang 2008
This Maxima has the intelli key when get in the car push on the brake it recognizes the signal and green key flashes on dash . Turn the ignition switch forward to start it , it cranks over perfect . like I said has spark no fuel. If immobilizer was issue would ignition still turn over without key in it? Also if that was issue would it still have spark and not fuel? Or would immobilizer issue not allow Spark?I would think it would not recognize and not allow you to turn the ignition switch but I could be wrong.
Last edited by Costee; Aug 28, 2019 at 04:38 PM.
The relay is an integral part of the IPDM. Here's what the FSM says: "None of the IPDM E/R-integrated relays can be removed." A suggestion that if any of its relays is bad, the entire box is replaced altogether.
As I said earlier, I suspect the issue is between the I-Key unit and the shifter assembly. You may check the BL section of the FSM, pages 92-93. Better still, if you can, have the I-Key unit scanned. You could PM me if necessary.
Okay, I am having the pretty much the same issues as jerrycox. The car will crank but will not start. I have replaced the fuel pump, Crankshaft and both cam sensors but to no avail. When I spray fuel into the throttle body it starts but cuts off when fuel burns off. I thought it was a security issue and the the system checked and it doesn't appear to be the problem. Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated.
Me too!!!
Omfg me too! Its driving me insane. I've replaced everything, starter, sensors, checked everything. I have a bypass hooked up that I got from harbor freight because I got tired of dealing with this. I press the button on the bypass and it starts. No codes show up, fuel pump engages, no one has a clue, runs great. Just won't start. Just put a brand new starter in. Still won't work. Then came a cross an article about the PNP switch. I'm going to try that next.
Did a p&p switch test and it's not that. I've also installed brand new fuel pump and immediately after l, it didn't crank up but I realized I had to prime it so once I got the fuel running through it cranked and started I couldn't believe it. I turned the car off and went to start it again and it didn't work. I went back to my fuel pump electrical sensor tapped out a few times cranked and started the car right up period shut the car off tried to crank it again it wouldn't start. Then I tried the battery disconnecting reconnected and it started turned it off and tried to turn it back on no start. So I'm not exactly sure at this point what to do I'm still having to use a bypass. Right now I'm looking at all the groundings including the negative to chassis and chassis to trann any other possibilities?
Did a p&p switch test and it's not that. I've also installed brand new fuel pump and immediately after l, it didn't crank up but I realized I had to prime it so once I got the fuel running through it cranked and started I couldn't believe it. I turned the car off and went to start it again and it didn't work. I went back to my fuel pump electrical sensor tapped out a few times cranked and started the car right up period shut the car off tried to crank it again it wouldn't start. Then I tried the battery disconnecting reconnected and it started turned it off and tried to turn it back on no start. So I'm not exactly sure at this point what to do I'm still having to use a bypass. Right now I'm looking at all the groundings including the negative to chassis and chassis to trann any other possibilities?
Last edited by DPenfield; Nov 19, 2020 at 10:32 AM.
two thousand eight hundred twenty five thousand miles dump a lot of money into it don't want to spend another 2,000 at dealer but don't want to have a $300 scrap car either. So after I got home ordered all new sensors because the ones I replaced previously were from AutoZone so I ordered all new Itachi from RockAuto installed them yesterday and still same issue. I'm thinking ECM. But I'm not sure any suggestion-->Kodi nox
Last edited by duard.79; Aug 29, 2020 at 07:21 AM.
Okay, I am having the pretty much the same issues as jerrycox. The car will crank but will not start. I have replaced the fuel pump, Crankshaft and both cam sensors but to no avail. When I spray fuel into the throttle body it starts but cuts off when fuel burns off. I thought it was a security issue and the the system checked and it doesn't appear to be the problem. Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated.
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