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Alrighty,
I am in the process of wrapping up a timing chain replacement job on my 2005 Maxima VQ. I have the timing chain cover off and was planning to close it up maybe this Sunday or sometime soon. Actually I was going to close it up last week until I discovered what Oil gallery gaskets were and had to order and wait for parts. While I am this deep are there any other items that I should replace at 110k. Certainly glad that I ran into the write up on the gallery gaskets but am now wondering if there are other items this Maxima novice is unaware of. So far this is what I have replaced while things were totally a part.. I know its not a sexy post but If anyone knows for an item that should be addressed while I am hovering over the engine or sitting in the wheel well please let me know.Also....Do I litely RTV the Oil gallery gaskets on install??
Thank you
1. Complete timing chain kit (sprockets chains tensioners guides etc..) It was a Cloyes kit. 12 parts total.
2. Water Pump
3. Thermostat and gasket
4. Small O rings (rear cover and cam phaser solenoid ones - 4 total) as well as Metal collared VTC intake spocket o rings (2x)
5. Intake cam gear seal. Plastic seal thingy that sits in the intake cam sprocket from the outside timing cover. It has a split in it. (2x)
6. Rear (right)valve cover and new coils
7. EGR gaskets
8. Front and passenger motor mounts
9. Plugs
10. Belts and radiator hoses
11. Lower TC cover seal. Cover to oil pan interface..
11. Oil cooler O-ring
12. Upper Plenum gasket
Get the Ultra grey in the squeeze tube, not the caulking gun tube, makes it super easy to apply accurately. Remember more does not=better. Keep the pan beads at 1/8" and follow the FSM for the application pattern. Do a good job cleaning old RTV, no abrasives or metallic scrapers.
Any cleaning that can be done while you have access. Pick your favorite degreaser.
Good job timing the motor. I'll let you know if I think of anything else.
Sorry, looks like your VTC covers get RTV, not factory gaskets. I'm going off my build, which was a 2014 motor, 2nd gen VQ. Anyways looks good so far. You should have a clean, reliable motor for a while after all this.
Thank you very much for your guidance. I've learned more about the Vq than I ever wanted to know. Lol. Those little Oring and paper gaskets scare me. Don't want to have to go through all this trouble/work just to have to go back in for a nickels worth of failed rubber or as Nissan sees it $20 worth of failed rubber. Bad enough this whole job started as a result of 1/2 inch of broken slack tensioner plastic. This TC job has kind of ballooned with many other parts being replaced but I didn't have to remove the upper oil pan so won't have the opportunity to replace those items. I'm at that point however where I start playing the mind games about replacement of said items for long term gain against the down time it will cost. At 110k and the one owner before myself being an old lady I think I might just pass on dropping the upper oil pan and oil pump to replace the items associated with them, unless it is really necessary. Which I havent read anything about as being known issues. The other thing that concerns me, which I was unaware of at the time of puchase is the cvt. It seems that these things are meant to die. I haven't been able to find a failure rate statistic for 2005's. So why go the extra mile at this moment for a car that is not too bad on the milage, mostly driven non aggressively but may have the transmission konk out. Just my thoughts!!
Thanks again
All the best...
Gosh, I'm sorry again, I was in engine swap mode again. You didn't remove the upper oil pan, awesome, don't even worry about the oil pump seals, they're fine. The paper/metal gallery gaskets will be fine as well. The two rubber seals that feed oil to the phasers will be fine also as long as they were not dislodged when you mated the front timing cover. I went through that stress too. I actually pulled my TC off and re-installed it a second time just to check those O-rings. My stress got the best of me on that one, and it was completely unnecessary to do the job twice as the seals stayed in place the first time. My excuse was that the engine was on an engine stand though, so better make sure now than to have to deal with it in the car. I really think you'll be fine. I understand the stress involved with doing so much critical work, I've been through it myself. My timing chain jumped on the crankshaft sprocket while I was doing my 2nd gen engine swap. That was scary for a while. But I secured the cams, got the chain back on the correct teeth, cams didn't jump, no valve strikes or bent valves to worry about and it's been running beautifully ever since. I hate working on timing components, they are so critical and scary with interference motors. A couple weeks ago I finished installing new secondary timing chain tensioners (two) and oil pressure check valves in my new-to-me 2013 Mercedes E350 with only 80k mi. I had to time the engine twice, once for each bank to unload the cams before I could pull the old tensioners and install the new ones and check valves. I was a nervous wreck! But I followed the factory service manual, got it done, and it runs like a dream. The stress will quickly dissolve once you fire it up and it starts purring. When is first start?
As for the CVT, I forgot you're new enough for one. As an option, the 05/06's could be fitted with traditional 5pd automatic transmissions, the ones with gears I think you'll be fine there too as long as it was and continues to be maintained, which it sounds like it has, being owned by an older owner. I wouldn't sweat that either. Go ahead and do a drain and fill while you're still dirty, change the filter, etc. and you should be good to go. If it made it to 110k mi though, it will most likely go another 110k mi. I think the majority of tranny failures, whatever the type of tranny, are due to mistreatment and/or lack of maintenance.
Thanks for your input. Sure helps to have an experienced hand guide you through the unknown. I think i am in the position now to reinstall the timing cover. Once that is on its easy breeezy the rest of the way. There is very little room to work in (Transverse mounted vq) and trying to get that cover in place under the AC line and between the wheel well without smearing the sealant all over the place will be a task. I am worried about leaving an open area for a leak especially at the bottom of the cover where the upper oil pan meets the TC cover. I picked up a new half moon seal.right from Nissan. I know that I apply sealant in the corners of the seal but do I also apply sealant on the lip of the oil pan where the seal comes in contact with it as well as the groove where the seal sits inside of the TC cover?? The oem seal seems to fit ever so slightly smaller but assume that when it is pressed between the lip and the cover it will fill out the space. Forgive the dirty engine. It is not anymore! Valve cover leak before I acquired it.
I have just completed the timing tensioner replacement recently on my 2003 Infiniti I35 at 170,000 miles. My advice is to take your time. No rush. And practice putting the timing chain cover back on without the RTV first. You need steady hands and know exactly how to orient the cover to get it back on without it touching any other parts of the engine. Otherwise the RTV will rub off and you are going to have to redo if the cover ends up leaking oil.
I hope its not too late, But First things First, Do A thorough Part inspection on those chains Before you install them if they are not OEM. A backwards Link will kill this engine. I personally have Found this with aftermarket Kits. You should be fine to roll on with the Pump. Peace/
Gents,
Thank you very much for following this. I really appreciate everybody's input and guidance. You guys are great. Sorry for the delay in getting it done. I only have Sundays to really work on this. The last two weekends (Sundays ) have been Easter and Spring break not to mention I am in Georgia and the pollen has been really bad. I am doing this outside and it gets all over stuff quick. I was also researching the proper CVT and Radiator fluid chemistry. This weekend should push me along a good bit. I also second guessed myself on a few things and wanted to double check them before the cover went on. Nothing like doing the work twice. Cloyes TC set. I will inspect it. I must have hand turned that engine 90 times trying to get marks and colored links to align again after the first clockwise turn without noticeing anything. I will post the progress.
Thanks Again
Gents,
Clarification Please. I am putting the TC cover back on (2005 Maxima). I went through a few dry runs with my technique last night in an effort to minimize sealant smearing. Not much space dropping this thing in under AC line/wheel well etc... JUST TO BE CLEAR, I don't have to drop the upper oil pan,..CORRECT?? Asking because it is tight at the bottom around the half moon/oil pan seal and those mating surfaces on either side are horizontal. As you angle the cover on from the bottom the upper oil pan and TC cover surfaces slide over each other horizontally as the cover seats. Some sealant smear will definitely occur at the point. Maybe it doesnt matter??
I put RTV on the TC cover but I also put a light coat on the engine block. That way if the RTV on the cover is rubbed off on the way in, there is a back up layer on the engine block.
No, I did not remove the upper oil pan. For the “U” shape, plastic gasket, I put a couple drops of JB weld instant glue to hold the gasket to the cover. That way, the gasket will not slip off when you try to put the TC cover back.
I put in over 1000 miles since I did mine. No oil leaks. One last thing. When you start the engine, the first time, it will be noisy until oil pressure builds. So don’t panic.
I assumed that you made sure that the sprockets and chain are aligned properly? TDC etc?
Yeah not necessary to remove the upper pan. You could, to make the timing cover install easier, but you create a lot more work as you would have to clean the sealing surfaces of the upper oil pan and block and re-seal it after you install the timing cover. Sorry this is late, you might have already finished.
User 1 ,
Thanks for paying attention to my work and for your help...Much appreciated ! Sorry for the delay. Nothing like getting COVID to put you two weeks behind on your life. Just came out of it (pretty close to the 14 days) and didn't much feel like getting under a car or in a wheel well. I am just about finished with things. Good progress on Saturday. A few more items to put back together but all the hard stuff is done. My scope of work was greater than just doing the TC. I expect to have it all wrapped up this weekend weather permitting. Hopefully you wont hear an atmospheric sized scream when I turn the key
User1 --- Why did you turn the engine for so long when you did your job?? I did so in order to hear if anything sounded like it was hitting. I was also trying to get all colored links and marks to line up again. I was able to get the black links on the intake sprockets and the gold link on the crank sprocket to all align at the same time with markings up at the 2 and 10 positions roughly to match engine casing marks. Those orange secondary chain links didn't seem to be in their original starting positions when the primary chain was aligned but I didn't turn the engine as much as you did. I had to turn it a lot however to get the black (2) and gold (1) link to be at the starting position. Nothing sounded as if it was hitting.
It's not easy to get the timing cover back on with the upper oil pan still installed. I didn't get the rubber seal in correctly and ended up smearing extra RTV on it. Thankfully it never leaked.
Early 6th gens had 4 and 5 spd autos available. 07 was the first year with a CVT.
User 1
Thanks for reaching out. I meant to post a progress report on Monday but got slammed with things. I ended up have to replace and clean up a few last minute things that was unexpected and parts from the dealer ended up taking 5 days to come in. ANYWAY!! I am sorry to disappoint, BUT happily everything is completely back together and mighty clean might i say....Lots for clean up from past oil leaks. I haven't turned the key just yet because I am trying to discover how to get the main pulley torqued down properly. Hell, you cant even get it to the 36 Ft lbs before the engine turns (5 speed automatic). I was trying to do the 36 lbs and than the 60 degrees thing to be in accordance with the FSM and as a result declined to use my impact air wrench. My air tools aren't strong enough anyway as I couldn't get it off in the beginning with them. From what I have read some warn against the impact/air ratchet in this place.. The flywheel, jam something in the teeth lock down method, concerns me a bit. After all this work I don't need teeth or anything in there breaking!! I am going to attempt a few things to hold the pulley in place as I turn the bolt. Maybe a ratcheting strap or a chain through the holes on the pulley tied off to something. Bad goes to worse, I can bring it to the local tire shop after achieving the 36 lbs and after making the marks for a 60 degree turn I can let them hit it with their heavier air tools??? Not sure how the dealerships do this but I have heard from others that they just hit it with the air a few times and move right along. Open to suggestions? ALSO, after much reading about all the craziness surrounding coolants ( colors and chemistry IAT vs. OAT etc..) I just decided to go with Prestone Asian Vehicle blue equivalent even though my vehicle is a 2005 and technically calls for the LL green.. Where the hell did all these colors come from??
JSutter
Putting on the TC cover with the oil pan still in place is indeed a pain in the *** and was a moment of concern prior to doing it. I will describe how I did it as the TC cover went on with this method as smoothly as I could have hoped given it was just me doing it. I am sure this method is no secret. The night before, I installed the half moon seal into the lower TC cover. I applied a liberal amount of RTV into the groove prior to seating the seal into it. I than firmly seated the seal. After carefully smoothing everything out and wiping away the excess RTV. I let it set for a full day. Upon TC cover install I applied a bunch of RTV on to the lip of the oil pan to act as a sealant and something of a lubricant. I than immediately dropped the cover down and rested it in place on the lip. At this point the cover is angled towards the wheel well while resting on the oil pan lip. I got the two larger lower TC bolts in place feeding them through the outer timing cover and into the rear TC cover, After catching a few good threads on each side. I than tilted the top for the cover inwards towards its mate (Rear TC cover) and put two bolts quickly in place on the top to firmly hold everything in alignment. I than dropped back down to the bottom and began tightening the lower (14mm??) bolts and than back up top to tighten them some more and continued on using this alternating upper/lower tightening pattern. The lower bolts pulled and compressed the seal right over the lip as it moved laterally. The fresh RTV reduced any friction of the seals dry rubber over the oil pans lip. It went on perfectly without any smear. Prior to install, I was concerned because I didnt want to seat the cover and everything around it just to find a leak from a displaced seal or smeared sealant. Anyway, hopefully this approach helps others get through their project with a little less 4 letter words.
Interesting journey with the VQ I have learned to admire it as much as I have cursed it at times (at least in the beginning when a bolt snapped off in the head 1/2 inch from the cam). I am use to old American muscle. Simpler and less temperamental albeit much less refined. I will turn the key this weekend. Keep you posted.
Thanks a bunch.
Sorry for the delay,... again! Story of my life lately. GREAT NEWS! I turned the key and its ALIVE! Sounds great, performs great. Have thoroughly enjoyed driving it so far. I really cant thank everyone enough for their input. Wish my updates came sooner than they did but I usually run in multiple directions in any given week. I learned a lot on the VQ and found myself looking for possibly an older Z that I might pick up and punish myself some more with. BTW..I came up with a cheap ($7 Home Depot) straight forward way to lock down the crank pulley for either tightening or loosening and a way to turn the bolt the required 80 degrees if you dont have air tools or if they are weak like mine were...(see pics) I still have a few things to tend to such as the EGR sensor code that popped up but at least now she is on the road.
Thanks again guys
$7.00 Home depot. Comes with the clamps Spare scissor jack under the 2x4. Jack with caution. When the hands on the clock stop moving easily you should stop. 70 to 80 degrees in my case.
Congrats! Nothing more beautiful than the grumbling sound of a car starting after you have ripped your engine apart. I did my timing chain cover, tensioner, guides etc over a 3 month period. I was not in a hurry because of COVID lock down. Like you, I learned so much more about cars. When it came to locking the crankshaft pulley to install the bolt tightly, I too had to improvise and created a tool from Home Depot parts. Enjoy your car! After doing a timing chain cover project, other car projects seem like a piece of cake.
Awesome! Glad it all came together. You did a lot of work to that thing, you're good to go for a long time. Got any pics of the whole car? I've always liked the 6th gen.
I'm going off my build, which was a 2014 motor, 2nd gen VQ. Anyways looks good so far. You should have a clean, reliable motor for a while after all this. Showboxjiofi.local.htmltplinklogin
Last edited by geovani.kaesen; Nov 10, 2021 at 01:00 AM.
I think you'll be fine there too as long as it was and continues to be maintained, which it sounds like it has, being owned by an older owner. I wouldn't sweat that either. Go ahead and do a drain and fill while you're still dirty, change the filter, etc. and you should be good to go. If it made it to 110k mi though, it will most likely go another 110k mi. I think the majority of tranny failures, whatever the type of tranny, are due to mistreatment and/or lack of maintenance.
