I've found some generic scratch removal pens online but was wondering if anyone had success with one in particular or if someone found one that actually matches the color of my car. Bought a 2014 with 2 light scratched on the passenger side

 

I had the same issue a few times. Not really sure what fixed it but I know when I replaced my battery and made sure the terminals were properly connected, it did the trick.

 

Done a lot a research and am not clear on an answer.
I seen black series headlights on ebay for a 2011 Maxima SV. All the headlights claim "not for use with factory hid". I have xenon lights and am wandering if there is anyone that figured out a solution or are there headlights for xenon setups (and im just not looking hard enough)? Thanks in advance

 

New member here. Just picked up a '14 Maxima SV with Sport Package with 34k on the clock.

So far, I'm loving it. Gonna see if it's still under warranty (it is for miles, not sure about years) as it's got two issues. The driver's taillight gets condensation in it and the driver's seat feels like it rocks back under harder acceleration and then forward on braking.

But, it doesn't feel like a loose mount at the floor, it feels like it's the center insert in the seat itself. Very weird.

Another question though, mine has memory seating and was just curious if any of these had the option where the seat goes back and the steering wheel goes up when you turn the car off? Then it would return to the last memory setting when you get in and hit the button. My '13 Optima from a few years ago did this. Was just curious.

 

Team,

I installed some Godspeed coilovers and want to adjust the dampener. I sure don't want to remove the suspension if possible and wondering if I can access the top of the coilovers by removing rear seat, if easier.

Thoughts?

 

Hey guys, new here and don't even own a Maxima yet. Later this week, I'll be test driving a '08 and a '09. I was hoping you guys could tell me what to watch and listen for as far as common problem areas and whether to lean towards the '08 or the '09, barring the obvious being one year newer. Looking for major common problems of course, but also wanting to know about small items that typically fail.
. Both cars have about 90k miles and the '08 is around $9k and the '09 is about $11k. Seem like a decent price for my area (Pittsburgh, PA), or should I continue to shop around?
. Any advice is appreciated! Once I buy one, I'll most likely become a regular here!
Johnny

 

Hi im new on this forum and I have a question, my check engine ligth went on, it gave me the code for the oil temperature sensor P0197, i got the switch from nissan now I need to know were is this swith located, It is the one next to the oil filter?, because that sensor its not the same as the one that i got from nissan, its for a 2009 maxima, hope that you guys can help me with this.

Thanks.

 

Hey everyone!

My dad's got a 2009 PJ32 Teana from Japan (manufacture run June 2008).
It has the Bose system in it with the colour screen navigation unit. The nav system recently stopped working.
The animated "NISSAN" lettering shows up, flashes and then disappears off screen. It then loops ad infinitum like that.
We've disconnected the battery to hard reset it to no avail.

It looks like a new nav system will be needed. Nissan has discontinued the part (25915-JN20B or later JN28B) , however and thus this has turned into a bit of a nightmare.
I've searched Yahoo Auctions Japan and I can find pretty much every other variant for the Teanas of that time except for the JN20B/JN28B that my dad needs.

Comparison of the rear of the broken unit and the alternative units I've found online.

Does anyone have any idea what the missing port might be or what it could control? Alternatively, does anyone know how to modify one of the units with the missing port to work with the Teana?
I did find a seller online who seems to have done so but he's charging way more than we can afford to spend on this (about $1000, which would come to a landed cost of $3000 or so locally owing to super high customs duties here). https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Conversion-o...i2hH:rk:2:pf:0 (hope it's ok I've included the link here. Please let me know if not).

Would really appreciate any input I can get here!
Thanks everyone.

 

hey guys, looking for a DIY how to guide on idler and tensioner pulley replacement for my wifes 2010 maxima. Been squeaking for a while. Time to replace and trade the car in. Ive searched this forum and others, along with google and youtube, and have came up empty handed. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

 

 

I’ve had my 09 max for a few years now, I’ve been through three new plastic intake manifolds. They keep cracking from heating up and cooling down all the time. I was wondering if anyone has found a cast iron or aluminum intake that would fit?

 

,

Never heard of this problem on this site, so since it is so rare I highly doubt there would be any third party manifolds made from different materials out there. Since you have had three failures I would be looking at closely at installation techniques especially the torque specs. If the problem was due to heat/ cycles then it would be everyone's problem.

 

Thanks for the response, I’m sure I got the torque right for all three I did it right off prodemand with a calibrated torque wrench, Im not entirely sure it’s due to heat issues but I know that most of the heat from the engine is right in that area because I had the paint on my hood actually start to bubble up over a long drive. Around 600 miles. Temp gauge in the car was reading normal but the hood definitely had a hot spot right above where the intake would crack. So I just assumed that would be the issue. I’ve seen what look like older manifolds on 7th gens that didn’t look like they were plastic so I’m hoping to find some information

 

Does anyone get a simple solution for Bluetooth music in a 2009 Maxima without the tech package? I don't have an ipod connector.

 

2014 Max SV SEL P0101
Ok so about a month ago the light came on and I reset it. No biggie, if it comes on again I'll get it checked out but knew I was due for a service as she was almost 100K. Last week the light came back on so I took it to Pep Boys and they read the code P0101 maf sensor. So the guy removed and cleaned my MAF and reset the light. Next day the light came back on but had the additional P0171 code. Tried cleaning and resetting it but it wouldn't stay off. So I pulled all the intake and cleaned that up and replaced the filter and plugs. I found one of the vacuum lines of the back passenger side of the manifold had a "crack" but wasnt sure if it I did it or if I just made it worse when I pulled the intake manifold. Replaced it either way. Took it for a drive and after about 20 miles the light came back on. But now the P0171 isnt on just the MAF code. My buddy keeps telling me to check the ground but I cant find anything on line as to where the MAF grounds!?! Any advice or help? Thanks in advance

 

Hello everyone! I am the proud owner of a very nice 2010 Premium SV/Tech Maxima. I have only had it a week and I am loving it so far. Such a smooth and comfortable/quiet ride with the power there when I need it.

I have been reading on these forums for a few days now and I have learned a lot but I am definitely still a newb. I had a 2006 Sentra before this so it feels like quite an upgrade.

My car was owned by a doctor in Mass. and was well maintained and mostly driven on highway. I have a stack of service documentation that came with it. Currently at 142k miles and purring along nicely. The engine is in very good shape and there is just a tiny spot of rust below the rear plate holder. This is my first car with a CVT I just received five quart big jug from Amazon so I can change it if it is due. Also got a new air filter and CVT filter on the way. I understand it should be changed every 60-70k miles? Is that a full change or just drain and replace?

What are the most common problems/malfunctions with these cars? Would there be any benefit from switching to synthetic oil? The person I bought it from just had the valve body replaced. That is inside the tranny correct? So I would assume the CVT fluid has to be replaced to install new valve body?

I have done everything I can to erase the previous owners data such as phonebook and saved addresses. Is there a way to restore the Nav/Computer to factory default settings?

I also noticed there are a few tiny specs on the hood where the paint has come off exposing tiny bit of metal but there is no rust yet. What is the best way to fix that? Just order the paint that is right color from Nissan? I think it is called crimson.

Just got a basic cleaning kit is there anything you guys recommend to keep my Maxima running and looking good?

 

I am concerned about the "Five Quart Big Jug" statement. Is it Nissan NS-2 or made by someone else? (I've never seen a 5qt jug of NS-2 genuine Nissan CVT.)
If it isn't genuine Nissan NS-2 I would return it. Only use genuine CVT fluid. (I should say, I recommend you only use genuine...it is, after all, your whip and your decision.)

Re your question re synthetic oil. I am confused here too as you follow that by a statement about the valve body (which is indeed in the CVT) If you are asking about MOTOR OIL, sure. I've always used Mobil 1 5W-30 every 5K miles on my 09 and now at 422,000 still no issues.

Re keeping it looking good....well I am about cleanliness so am more concerned about a weekly wash wax and interior cleanse than "shiny" but I can appreciate a nice paint and wax job. Keep it washed regularly and you should have no issues.

 

Thanks so much for the quick reply Ltleary!

The CVT fluid I got from Amazon is Idemitsu CVT Fluid Type N (NS-2) is that not good enough? I have prime so I could return it without much hassle.
I thought I read on this forum that it is what they use at the Nissan dealerships but I could be mistaken.

I was asking about motor oil yes. As far as I know my car has always run regular oil. I did find some documentation of the CVT fluid being changed at 113K and there was a note to change the CVT filter at 120K. I can't find any proof it was done so I went ahead and ordered one is it very hard to install? Should I change the fluid at the same time so the filter doesn't get clogged up right away? It has been less than 40K miles since the last CVT fluid change.

And yes the previous owner switched out the valve body at 140K and I was asking if that is even possible to do without changing the fluid?

How good are Maximas in the snow/ice? This will be my first winter in one need to get some solid snow tires as I live in Vermont right now. Are studded snows needed or just good tread?

What is the best way to deal with a little surface rust on undercarriage? I should remove it before putting any kind of rust protection right?

Thanks so much and sorry if I am asking a lot of questions. I am a fast learner and I want to be able to maintain as much as possible on my car on my own.

 

I would return the CVT fluid and get the genuine NS-2. But it IS your car so you can make your own decisions.

Regular Motor Oil (change frequently) is supposedly as good as synthetic. The key here is REGULARLY. I have used synthetic on all 422,000 miles on my 09 maxima every 5K miles

Re the valve body; well you do have to drop CVT pan to get to it but it doesn't drain all the CVT fluid out. It is like a drain and fill.

Re The difficulty replacing the CVT filter. Pretty basic. Remove the front drivers wheel, open the panel, 2 bolts and the hose connectors! 15 min job.THis is an external filter.

Re Snow/Ice. Sorry, I live in Florida...I don't know what that is!

Re rust on undercarriage? Always treat (Sand and Prime and Paint)

 

Ok I have some time before the CVT fluid is due so I will just return it and get the OEM NS-2.

Thanks for the info on valve body, so that would be like a drain and fill but not full system flush?

Anyone else have any info about driving in ice/snow? You are lucky living in FLA no salt on your roads.

Treat the rust with what? Sand off as much as possible and then repaint with rust proof paint? I was watching some videos on you tube last night and they were showing and talking about a gel you apply and then cover with plastic wrap. What are best ways to deal with rust?

That's amazing you have over 400K! Maybe I will switch to synth oil so I don't have to change the oil as often. It has been done every 3-4k for the entire life of the car.

She is prob due for a tune up I can't find any info about spark plug changes or anything like that in the service records besides special 50 and 75k service etc.

 

Good evening everyone, I'm a proud owner of a 2014 Maxima. I've tried finding answers to my problem and have had partial success but nothing clear cut about the issues my vehicle is having. A little back story that may be helpful, about a year ago I had my keys stolen. I reluctantly went through a locksmith company to replace my fob instead of paying more and going through the dealer. My mistake and hindsight being 20/20, it was the wrong decision. My fob buttons have worked intermittently and the push to start hasn't worked with the fob since. After fighting with them for weeks, they won and I gave up because I was too angry and tired to keep fighting them to fix it correctly. So I've been using the fob slot to start the car and mechanical key to lock/unlock the doors when the buttons haven't worked ever since.

Today at work I was on break having a cigarette and listening to the radio as I do just about every day when the volume on the radio cut out. The station I was listening to was taking a call so I thought the caller just dropped because when I looked at the radio it was still working normally. About 15 seconds later it happened again, naturally, I figured the battery was dying even though I was only listening for about 15 minutes. I went to the driver's side to investigate when I noticed the fob light on the dash was blinking. With the fob still in the slot, I tried to start the car and heard the tale-tell dead battery sound coming from the engine compartment. Frustrated but thinking I killed the battery, a simple fix, I noticed all the interior lights blinking after I had turned the car off and took the fob out. This confused me if the battery was dead but chalked it up to some kind of warning sign. I tried to open the trunk to make sure I had jumper cables and the truck latch also wouldn't work. Even more frustrated now I locked the doors and noticed the interior lights were still blinking, it had been a couple of minutes but they were still going.

When my wife arrived to give me a jump, I connected the jumper cables and put the fob in it without pressing anything for a good 3 or 4 minutes. When I went to give it a try, the start button didn't work so we waited a few more minutes. This time when I pressed the start button, it cycled through the lock/acc/on lights above the button. The battery in the fob is old so I understand replacing that could fix some of my electrical issues, but if the fob slot is designed to work without a good battery in the fob to start the car, shouldn't the car still start after jumping it with my wife? My company is flexible but I really shouldn't have my car there too long and I don't have funds for a tow and mechanic/dealer so I'm hoping it's so dumb cheap fix. Sorry if something like this is posted somewhere else, I tried to read as much as I could to find things similar to what I was experiencing. Thank you for your help in advance, I appreciate it

 

These cars are very fickle if the battery is not good. Install a new battery. Try to get one with a higher CCA than the original. the OEM batteries are known to be less than adequate and your car is over 5 years old. A replacement is a good place to start.

 

Thanks for your suggestion Richard, I can attest to how fickle the batteries are. That and the heat in north Texas killed the oem battery after a short time of my purchasing the vehicle. I'm hoping a new battery for the car, the fob, and cleaning the terminals will fix it. The symptoms are similar to what I've read here but the blinking interior lights is confusing to me. Thanks again, I plan on going over to give it a shot shortly.

 

I have a 2013 Maxima SV and notice this pipe is very rusty... the best I can find is it is an upper pipe to the heater? Anyone know the part number and what this is actually called? It's just below the oil dip stick and runs from the left to right and curves back toward the firewall.

 

Hi guys just looking for some advice I just did a resonator delete on my 12 maxima was running great for some time but the service engine soon light came on today and its showing that the system is runing to lean on bank 1 was wondering what to do to fix this problem . I thought about buying spacers of the o2 sensor to see if that will fix the problem indont think it has and vacuum leaks or intake leaks. Can anyone shed some light on this problem thanks

 

Hey guys new owner here from San Juan PR. Bought my 2009 White on Black 3 days ago. It has 89k miles and drives perfectly and shifts perfectly.

Unfortunately I have no service records, should i change the CVT oil and filter? Tomorrow shes going in for motor oil and filter. Wonder if i should do both or leave as is.
What other maintenance would you guys do? Shes also getting a full inspection by my mechanic.
Only has one code for Large EVAP leak but that doesnt worry me. I love this car coming from a 6th gen maxima.

Thanks guys

 

Yes you should absolutely do at least one drain and fill on the CVT...maybe 2 or 3. Hard to know if it was ever changed before, so I would operate under the assumption that it hasn't to be safe.

 

How do I determine if the vehicle is an S or SV trim?

 

Try this link https://maxima.org/forums/vindecoder.php

 

Help please!!!! I have a 2013 maxima SV I would like to install an aftermarket radio but I want the climate control use on the radio can someone please help me

 

I know this picture is HUMUNGOUS. this was not my intention. but does anyone know what the partnumber for a 2012 dual sunroof weather seal. I just want the seal, not the entire trim that the Nissan parts websites are showing me..
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thank you.
-Danny

 

Looking at a friend's 2010 maxima. When she starts it cold the radio controls, climate controls, backup camera and windows (maybe-shes been afraid to try them much) will all come on but be stuck on whatever setting they were on when she shut the car off. After 5-10 minutes then she's able to control them all normally and it's fine until the car sits again. She said the screen is wierd for a few minutes kinda like a green screen. Any direction at all would be great help!!

 

I would try two things. Disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour then reconnect. This will reboot the ECM and BCM and might solve the problem. If this doesn't work try a new battery. These cars can become quite fickle with the systems if the battery is anything less than 100%.

 

New to fuses, I was wondering if anyone knows which fuses in the interior fuse box turn on with the ACC On position? Would it be the same for all of our cars? I have a 2012 SV.

 

Another question, I'm trying to run a switch in the interior for DRLs in my headlights. Where could I run the wire? Switch is going next to the key fob port.

 

Hi guys, i did a search but couldnt find a clear answer. I want to upgrade my stock head unit (Bose System/Non Nav/Amber Screen).

i Want to install a double din touchscreen unit, but i want it to sound same or better than stock with the Bose speakers.

Which harness do i use? I see 2 different ones. Is it the one that plugs in to my new headunits RCA instead of the units speaker wires?
what harness do i use for steering wheel integration? As long as source /skip/ volume works im good

Thanks in advance

 

Hi, I need to replace both of the bumpers on my 2011 SV. There's no real guide on this and I've never done this before, so... how do I do this? Lol. What size sockets do I need because I can't use an adjustable wrench for the taillight(why do I have to take off the taillight to take off the bumper ugh).
There's a video on youtube about a 2011 Altima, but that's not really a Maxima.

 

 

Hello, I've lurked for a while but this is my first post, I hope i'm going about it the right way.

2012 Maxima SV recently triggered the service engine light with a P0171 (system too lean) and P1778 (step motor function). I found an air hose leak and replaced it, I noticed my car idles a little smoother. I cleared the alarms and both cleared. I'm pretty sure I resolved the P0171 issue but now I'm concerned about the step motor issue. That alarm cleared also and I've driven about 40-50 miles since then and here's what I've noticed: for the most part I drove it lightly but I did accelerate at a decent rate a couple times to see what happened. Once I reached about 60-70 mph I noticed my rpms would rev pretty high and seemed to not want to engage the next gear. Besides that, especially at lower speeds the car drives perfectly normal.

From my research I've decided to change the step motor. I've looked here and other places online and while I've found a good amount about changing CVT oil and filter, I've only been able to find very limited information about replacing the step motor. I've seen videos of ppl doing it to other Nissan cars but I was hoping someone could point me to some threads, videos, or pics that apply to the 7th gen. I feel confident I can do it but was hoping someone had some resources for the finer details and things to look for - mainly when I get to dropping the valve body and going back in after new step motor is mounted. I plan on replacing the step motor, external filter and going back with OEM Nissan S2.

Other details: never had any tranny or engine issues, car has about 130k miles, I've put about 30k on it with no maintenance to the CVT system.

Thank you for any help!

 

Following up, I did pull the step motor and replaced it with one from ebay for about 24$. It's was a lot easier than I imagined. So drop the trans pan and the step motor sits right there on the bottom side of the valve body, you do not have to drop the valve body. Very straightforward. I changed trans oil, external filter, and step motor. Took 5 and about an 1/8 to 1/4 quarts to get it perfect on the dipstick. Cleared up my p1778 code and the issue I was having (getting stuck in higher rpms at higher speeds) is resolved. Hoping this replacement step motor holds up, so good so far.