Just got off the phone with Amsoil and they did a cross comparison with the Wix direct replacement for the Nissan filter to the Amsoil filters. You were right, the Eao13 is a direct fit but so is the Ea014. The difference is the 13 has a pressure relief of 8-11 lbs. The 14 is exactly 8 lbs which is the rating for the Nissan filter (Wix). I think therefore that the 14 would be a better match as the internal pressure rating is what Nissan calls out. If you had an engine failure and they check the filter it might void the warranty if you had the 13. What do you think?

 

I have a 2009 Maxima. Does anyone know how to turn off the maintenance warning that says "change oil filter"?

 

Reset the distance meter in the options menu.

 

7500 miles with valvoline max life full synthetic.

 

Glen - that's pressure relief which is for when the filter is completely plugged up, I know you'll never keep your filter that long.... I don't think the 14 will fit did you get the length?

 

Mike...I was told that dimensionally they are the same, just the pressure spec is different.

 

What kind of oil do they usually give you at the dealership? My dealer told me that as long as I do the routine maintence at the dealership, that they would warranty my engine for the life of the vehicle.

 

Uhhh...no they won't.

If you think that they told you that - you misunderstood.

 

Each dealer is different, your best bet to to ask them, my dealer (Rockland Nissan) does my oil changes with the Nissan Ester oil, I was told that is what they use when you have the maintenance package, when I move to atlanta, I will use team Nissan and hope thy use the same.

Your engine/powertrain has a 60k warranty, but some dealers and oil change places will warranty the engine against mechanical breakdowns if you have every oil change from them, but read the fine print.

 

So what did they mean.

 

Much like all my other cars, I follow the book. It must be working since I have 281,000 miles on my 1987 Nissan 200SX. I'm still on the first engine. Yes, I'm the original owner.

 

mobile 1 5w-30 7500 miles.....if mercedes and bmw do it this way what makes u think a nissan is better?

 

The larger oil capacity and the German spec oils they use make them better

 

Correct company wrong oil.... M1 0W-40 is the only oil that BMW and Mercedes approve from Mobil.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...l_1_0W-40.aspx

Meets BMW Long Life 01 and Mercedes Spec 229.5 and 229.3

M1 5W-30 is a no no in these autos...

 

3500-4000 with dino oil. I used to try and adhere to the "3000 miles" mantra, but realistically, its typically been 3500-4000.

With synthetics, I figure around 5000. I used synthetics in my Saab and that was average. The guy who did my work always brought out a sample of the old oil so I could inspect it. Never looked too bad.

I run full synthetic in my bike and I change that every 1500-2500 miles depending on how hard I'm riding it. That engine works really hard, and the wet clutch doesn't help matters.

I suspect I'll be around 5000 miles per change with the Max.

 

I thought the 229.51 included the 5W-30..which begs the question...what is the difference in these oils (and is it that much better/worse) than the standard Synthetic M1 weights? And what is a "fleece filter" anyway? Is it that much better than paper? Should we be following Mercedes lead or is this new spec made more for "freedom of maintenance" instead of actual wear reduction?

 

I may have spoken too soon. STARR feels that some dealerships may warrant against mechanical breakdowns with the qualifier - read the fine print.

My guess is that one would have a difficult time getting money out of them for your 200K+ engine.

 

What I meant was some dealers will warranty an engine or trans beyond the normal powertrain warranty because the owner has gotten the car fully serviced at the dealer, and the manufacture will recognize this and cover the cost of whatever is wrong cause they can clearly see what is wrong, I have seen several different dealers, Chevy, Ford, Toyota and Nissan replace engines with 70k on them, paid for by the dealer and manufacture cause the owner had all the servicing done at th dealer, it's kinda like insurance

 

My dealer provides complimentary service for the first three years. Since I don't drive 1,250 miles per month (probably more like 600), I plan to go every three months for those first three years.

After that, we'll see. I've read that the "every three months" is gratuitous for newer cars.

 

Will change in between 15,000-25,000 miles. Switched to Amsoil last oil change...

 

I change my oil and filter every 7000-7500 miles. I have been doing this for the last 50 years and have never had an engine failure related to oil changes. I use only standard everyday oil.

 

Do you have UOA, I have never seen anyone go past 7000miles on an oil change with a Nissan/Infiniti, at least not enough to remember

I would probably do the same, but Nissans like to shear the oil, and when I had synthetic in my 06, driving a 1000 miles a week, my oil analysis still told me not to exceed 6500 miles

 

I change mine every 4000 with Pennzoil Platinum full syth.

 

I change mine every 7500 miles but I use full synthetic oil. If it was regular dino or a dino blend then probably I would change it every 5000 miles.

 

Every 5000. I am lucky the dealership offered to cover my oil changes for the first 2 years when I bought it. I was curious to see if the suggested visit frequency would change since they are covering it, but it stayed the same as any other car I've had. Thumbs up for honesty.

 

Basically every 3000 miles but it depends, sometimes i go a little over if I'm using Synthetics and haven't been driving very hard/fast or for long distances.

 

Any reason why everyone uses full synthetic oil instead of the ester oil? Price? I found the ester oil on Ebay for $10/bottle and could get my mechanic to do it. Unless the full synthetic is a better choice?

 

The ester oil has not fared well in UOA's, shears badly.

One example:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...3&#Post2107093

 

Yeah, I think it has more to do with the price of the stuff and most of us probably go to the Dealership if we know all we're using is the Ester Oil.

Sometimes I get mine changed at the Dealership, others I might be on the road and stop at one of those 10 Minute Quick Lube Shops and get Synthetic.

 

How about elapsed time since your last oil change? I just turned 3000 miles since my last change but that was about 4 1/2 months ago. BTW - I have an appointment to get it changed in 45 minutes so I gotta run...
Only 6000 miles on my 2010 SV Tech so I thought it was time to change

 

I voted 10,000 miles but have changed it twice within the first 6K miles.
I will change it again (for the 3rd time) before 10K. And then every 5K-7K depending on how I drive and how the oil looks upon periodic inspection. Using Penz Platinum and always doing my own service.

 

Every 3,750 is recommended

 

With full synthetic you're fine driving 5-6000 miles before a change, any sooner and you're wasting oil.

 

I live in Canada now and this 5k oil change is rubbish. In the UK, the oil change interval is 10k miles for identical cars and 20k miles for a major service. Unless you have lived outside Canada or the U.S or search it, your basically clueless and fall victim to the dealers brainwashing you here.

 

Ester oil IS SYNTHETIC OIL. I have posted this 10 times atleast. Treat it as you would a synthetic oil. A synthetic oil actually has less esters and more carbon then an ester oil. Therefore should inherently last longer... Shear means nothing in oil in newer vehicles. Tolerances are held so tight to conform to ISO standards that it is not really a factor.... Even with pure Dino the engine should run fine for 200k plus. Just sn engineers opinion though...

 

I have the maint package when i got mine, good for 5 yrs, (20 oil/filter chg,) 10 with oil/filter and 10 with oil/filter and tire rotation, and it is good for 3750 miles or 3 months, I am under the mileage and get it every 3 months, I am not a high mileage driver being retired, had the max since dec and just now got over 4000 miles on it, I have a problem with keeping a car very long. the last 3 i have traded was less than 50k on them. and almost paid off.

 

Actually the Nissan Ester Oil is a Group III with an ester additive to help protect the DLC coating in the valve train although is more of an issue with the VQ35HR engine not ours. In actual UOA's (mine included) it shears rather quickly to a 20 wt oil however the TBN is rather strong over 7,500 miles still averages around 3.0 or greater.

Your note on Ester and Synthetic is off especially for high-end racing Synthetic oils i.e. Motul and Red Line which are very heavy users of Esters.

I think you actually meant ASTM not ISO as the measurement for shear stability, the two tests used for shear stability of an oil are measured by using both ASTM test methods D445 and D5275.

 

I wasn't talking about shear when comparing ISO to tolerances and ASTM to testing shear stability...

And who even brought up racing oil? Throwing numbers and standards out means nothing I can google too.

But who cares I'm not getting into a pissing match about oil. Follow the manual. If you do Nissan has to offer warranty work and the engineers at Nissan obv has more experience with their cars than anyone on this board.

Oil is oil, keep it clean, change it and your filter routinely and there should be very little (un noticeable by the avg Joe) difference in the wear characteristics of the motor as long as you use the correct spec oil.