Ready to take them out and chuck in the trash...
First set up I had would flicker and was told the ballest was an older unit and they knew about the problem....nice, so I get to remove the wheels and wheel wells again!
Second set I just put in, one side won't come on unless I turn the light switch on and off many times untill the ballest hooks up! not good to drive around with only one headlight on...WTF
Not happy with this mod at all

How are everyone else's HID working?

Whats the best non-HID bulb I can install...
For all the time I have installing these and the problems I'm having, I would not do this again...

 

For a H11 application, your best bet is probably an Osram/Philips/Narva/GE 65w H9 or an Osram Night Breaker 55w H11.


There is some variance from HID kit manufacturer to manufacturer and even bulb to bulb, in terms of coloring. Color is subjective to begin with, and camera settings can give two pictures of the same light completely different colors.

The image of all the difference colors is just some random bulb. It's had a Photoshop greyscale filter applied to it for 4300K. Then, they applied color overlays (also in Photoshop) to make it different colors.You can see that the shroud around the projector changes colors, even though in a real HID setup, it would always be the same color (usually silver)

 

Sorry to hear you are having so many problems.

Mine are working flawlessly, and I am very satisfied with my install. Also, I didn't take the wheels off, I just went up through the bottom after I took off the forward engine shroud. I'll admit it was very tight since my car is lowered and I didn't feel like breaking out the jack.

My one complaint is that while 4300k matches fairly well at most angles, it still seems to be a tad yellow (i.e. white with a tinge of yellow as the post above says). I think I am going to spend the $15 and get replacement bulbs in 5000k. I think that extra 700k will get the bulbs to match the factory HIDs perfectly.

Anyone have thoughts on that? Would 6000k be more blue? to me 5000k should be what I'm looking for i think. I'm aiming to match the factory headlights as close as possible without being yellow.

 

factory bulbs are 4300k. the blue cutoff makes them look bluer from side angles. From the front, they should be the same color.

 

They aren't matched perfectly. From the front (before blinding myself) they look like they have a very slight tinge of yellow. I'm gonna try to take a better picture tonight. I may be splitting hairs and being too picky lol. If I am right tho, 5000k may be better, at least with this specific manufacturer.

 

Okay, so I understand you are having issues, but you get what you pay for. Not saying that the cheaper kits won't work, but some will probably get great results and there's the people like yourself.

I used the stock ballasts, and rebased bulbs b/c I wanted to get close to stock as possible. The ballasts were around $100, the bulbs were around $65 and the D2 converters were $20. So for around $200 you get pretty close to stock and love the results. I would recommend this route over a kit any day. Good luck in getting it worked out.

-Rich

 

On my ride home tonight I determined that my lights do match very very close. I was being **** when I said they don't match. The difference is so subtle that only someone looking for a variation could tell there is one.

I will go ahead and say that I am more than pleased with my HID kit and highly recommend vvme.com to anyone looking for kits.

Thanks again Mreim for the tip.

 

I think there might be some confusion on which lights who is referring to, although, I might be wrong too.

I'm getting the impression that tpinsocal is referring to a replacement to his main non-HID headlights, while annino is talking about installing some HID fog lights to match the stock HID headlights.

I don't think there's any way possible to install new headlights without either removing the wheel/wheel well or front bumper. Is there?? Because that would surely make things a ton easier.

 

I believe you are correct. Sorry for the confusion.

 

No worries. I still want to install HID headlights on my '09 S, but the more I hear people's complaints about inconsistency the more I'm leaning towards just throwing in some modded H9s to make it brighter.

 

I think taking the 'risk' with an HID kit is worth it. It sucks that some people have such bad experiences. Try the site I got mine from, as i've said, I am extremely satisfied.

 

Don't ge me wrong, I like the lights and hope to get this worked out.
But if I was to do this over again, I would take it to a local shop and buy and let them install the lights. That way if I did have issues its them removing the wheels and replacing the kits.

 

HIDs for high beams isn't really a good idea.

 

I've decided I'll order from vvme. Anyone know for 100% certainty that this won't void my warranty?

 

I ordered a set of 55 watt 6K H11's from DDMtuning. I have a set from them for my E39 Touring that came with Factory HIDS and they have worked perfect. Why not on the wifes Maxima? I will install them before turkey day. Do I need the H11 connectors to spice into the HID kit? I thought all kits come with the associated light bulbs connector (H7 would have the male end of H7 and the H11 would have the male end of H11 Etc etc) so you just plug the end into where the bulb would go?

 

I'd be careful using aftermarket bulbs boosted to 55 watts. They run hotter than OEM and can damage the chrome inside your projectors.

 

I am posting regarding your comment about installing headlights without removing wheel/wheel well or front bumper.

I am not sure about the headlight itself but I have seen the guy who installed the HIDs on my car replace the headlight bulb without removing the wheel/wheel well or front bumper. He just turned the wheel all the way to one side and he was able to get access to the bulb through the gap between the bumper and the wheel. I could tell he knew what he was doing. He installed the entire kit in like 20 mins max!

 

some aftermarket kits just give you H11 pins to stick in the stock harness, rather than the full H11 male connector. You'd have to stick the pins in, then add silicone and electrical tape around them to keep them watertight and keep them from falling out.

but, as queenambeach said, it's best to use 85122 if you're going 50w, runs cooler. Only a few degrees hotter than DL50.

 

That's brilliant. Definitely going to do that.

I'm going to assume that vvme is one of the places that just has the pins. I'd prefer to buy a kit with the full H11 male connector already in place. Any recommendations?

EDIT: Anyone buy from NOTTO or KBcarstuff? These two places look like they are true plug-and-play with full H11 connectors in place.

 

Ive ordered and installed about 30 kits from this company, they make quality stuff. It usually does come with the h11 adapter. I ordered a set for my maxima as well!!

 

I think I'll be going with the KOTTO kits from CARid. I contacted customer service last night via web chat (great response and even got me a discount) and was informed that the KOTTO kits are 100% plug-and-play with the full H11 male connector. Plus, it comes with a 2 year warranty.

I'll pay the extra money for that. Gonna order and install after I get back in town from Thanksgiving.

 

Now you guys are freaking me out on this 55 watt thing. Dont stock halogen 55 watt bulbs run hotter than 55 wat hids?

 

My last pic made my fogs look yellow so I gotta redeem myself. Took this at night, you can see its a perfect match to the stock HIDs. VVME 4300k H11 kit:

 

Looks great man!

 

So the ballasts just plugged in? Where did you get the D2 converters? Please tell more....

 

I ordered my kit from ddm tuning, its was 100% plug and play. I removed the wheels and went through the wheel well, works great!!

09-10 low beams are h11.

 

I need some feedback guys, I'm thinking of getting an HID Kit but Im just wondering if any one here may have had a previous experience with any of these kits:

1. 8000K McCulloch HID Kit ( http://www.ultrabrightlights.com/pc-...g-harness.aspx )

2. MTEC D1 HID KIT ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTHE...ht_7686wt_1165 )

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!!!

 

Just get the DDM one. It's like $50.

Most HID kits come from the same couple of chinese factories, and cost (IIRC) somewhere between $10 and $30 to make... some companies just increase the price because most people think "Well, everyone complains about unreliable $50-$75 kits, so I bet the $300 kit is a lot better". Well, it's not. Instead of a $30 profit margin, they have a $280 profit margin.

 

I changed to HID's on my S maxima...and love them...only bad part is an a-hole cop pulled me over because my lights were blinding him....Beware of the A-hole cop!

 

Well, unless you're riding around with your brights on, that's just an adjustment issue and you were probably blinding everyone else as well.

 

Truth. Since all 7th gens have projectors, it takes a very keen eye to distinguish between a HID kit in a good quality OEM halogen projector and OEM HID in an OEM HID projector.

 

hello everyone! just got a 10 Maxima SV, winter frost.

I am going to upgrade to HIDs. and just wanted to know whats the difference between 55w and 35w HID kits.

Will the 55w kit bulbs run hotter?
enough to do damage to any headlight housing components?
anyone running a 55w kit and for how long?

thanks.

 

Hey everyone, I just received my HID kit from DDM Tuning and noticed that their kits don't come with the full H11 male connector---kind of a bumber, but I guess I'll have to silicone and tape them to the stock harness. Anyways, I was just curious if the projectors in the halogen headlamps are different than the HID headlamps? Thx!

 

Has anyone needed a wiring harness direct from the battery. I have the Phillips Kit and The lights will not come on together. I have to turn off and turn back on after one has warmed up.

 

I recently changed my oem HID bulbs to match the 5000k HID kit I installed in my fogs but have a minor problem. The clips that hold in the bulbs do not hold the bulbs very well and they are rather loose. Has anyone else had a problem with the clips not holding the bulbs securely?

 

To answer a couple peoples question

1. With loose bulbs the biggest issue is sealing. You risk getting moistue/condensation inside you headlight. That is a bad bad thing especially if it starts to rust and chrome or chrome plated plastic. You really want to make extra sure everything seals tight. The bulb actually falling out is probably the least of your worries.

2. The relay for the HID lights are a very smart thing to have. Even though the lights will work with the factory wires supplying the power for the balast, they are not sized for the inrush current draw on startup. The HID's do consume less power overall, that is while they are running. The start up amp draw is usually upwards of 20 amps. That may only be for a short warm-up period but if you look at the fuse on the fog light wires, the wires are only rated at a max of 15 amps.

It's just a nicer way to wire the aftermarket HID. Pull power from the battery instead of from stock undersized wires. Less risk of long term affects on your cars wiring. Give the lights and balast the full power they need everytime you start them up.

But in the end, your car, your choice

 

These are very bright but just make sure they pointing striaght and not up as it may affect oncoming drivers.

 

You have HIDs from the factory right?

Did you order H11 bulbs or D2S bulds??

 

You do not have ot remove the wheels, I've changed my bulbs a few times (including headlights parking lights etc.), all you have to do is turn the wheels all the way opposite of the side you are working on, remove the plastic clip in the wheel well closest to the bumper, and remove the 1st two screws under the bumper closest to the wheel well, then just pull the bumper out a bit and pull the wheel well back. The space is big enough to change bulbs that way, just go slow and work cautiously as not to bang the bulbs around taking them out and putting them back in

 

i agree with you. i did the same thing . just turn your wheel the opposite direction and take the click off ..