difference between buffing, polishing, clay wax and color sanding
difference between buffing, polishing, clay wax and color sanding
can u guys explain the differences and the impact on the clear coat each process does to the clear coat ?
is clay baring a more intense process than machine polishing ? and I take it color sanding would be the most intense process in terms of getting into the clear coat ?
is clay baring a more intense process than machine polishing ? and I take it color sanding would be the most intense process in terms of getting into the clear coat ?
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 439
can u guys explain the differences and the impact on the clear coat each process does to the clear coat ?
is clay baring a more intense process than machine polishing ? and I take it color sanding would be the most intense process in terms of getting into the clear coat ?
is clay baring a more intense process than machine polishing ? and I take it color sanding would be the most intense process in terms of getting into the clear coat ?
If you have to ask do none of these to your car but to answer your question...
In order of "intenseness"
-Clay Bar
-Polishing
-Buffing
-Color sanding
Clay bar is used to remove containaments in the paint (brake pad dust, rail dust, atmospheric fallout, sap, ect...) You use a detailing spray or other VERY slippery lubricant and gently slide the clay bar over the surface of your paint. It will pickup containaments and embed them into the clay. When a portion of the clay bar begins to get "dirty" fold it into itself and find a new clean portion. if a clay bar is dropped on the ground DO NOT USE, throw it away and get a new piece. NO CLEARCOAT CORRECTION (besides removing containaments).
Polishing is generally uses a random orbital polisher. This makes it VERY difficult to do any harm to your paint such as burning the clear because it never spins the same way twice, but correct operation is essintial to get desired results. Polishers generally use foam pads ranging from cutting pads to finishing/ finessing pads. And use polishes, selants and waxes to get desired results. FINE TO MODERATE CLEARCOAT CORRECTION.
Buffing uses an orbital buffer and generally uses a wool pad to remove wet sanding marks which is then usually followed by polishing. These are fairly hard to master and it is VERY easy to mess up your paint (burn through the clear). Not recommended for detailing use. MODERATE TO HEAVY/"INTENSE" CLEAR COAT CORRECTION
Color sanding or wet sanding uses very fine waterproof sand paper (generally ranges from 1000-4000 grit) and water. The water ensures the sand paper stays clean and the surface does not get to hot. Generally this is used to remove orange peel or use after touching up a scratch and is usually followed by either buffing or polishing. HEAVY/"INTENSE" CLEAR COAT CORECTION (produces a dull finish)
Hope that helps. Thats just the tip of the iceburg.
thanks that really helps.
what about swirls ? I take it the buffing process is the part when the swirls get removed ?
what about swirls ? I take it the buffing process is the part when the swirls get removed ?
If you have to ask do none of these to your car but to answer your question...
In order of "intenseness"
-Clay Bar
-Polishing
-Buffing
-Color sanding
Clay bar is used to remove containaments in the paint (brake pad dust, rail dust, atmospheric fallout, sap, ect...) You use a detailing spray or other VERY slippery lubricant and gently slide the clay bar over the surface of your paint. It will pickup containaments and embed them into the clay. When a portion of the clay bar begins to get "dirty" fold it into itself and find a new clean portion. if a clay bar is dropped on the ground DO NOT USE, throw it away and get a new piece. NO CLEARCOAT CORRECTION (besides removing containaments).
Polishing is generally uses a random orbital polisher. This makes it VERY difficult to do any harm to your paint such as burning the clear because it never spins the same way twice, but correct operation is essintial to get desired results. Polishers generally use foam pads ranging from cutting pads to finishing/ finessing pads. And use polishes, selants and waxes to get desired results. FINE TO MODERATE CLEARCOAT CORRECTION.
Buffing uses an orbital buffer and generally uses a wool pad to remove wet sanding marks which is then usually followed by polishing. These are fairly hard to master and it is VERY easy to mess up your paint (burn through the clear). Not recommended for detailing use. MODERATE TO HEAVY/"INTENSE" CLEAR COAT CORRECTION
Color sanding or wet sanding uses very fine waterproof sand paper (generally ranges from 1000-4000 grit) and water. The water ensures the sand paper stays clean and the surface does not get to hot. Generally this is used to remove orange peel or use after touching up a scratch and is usually followed by either buffing or polishing. HEAVY/"INTENSE" CLEAR COAT CORECTION (produces a dull finish)
Hope that helps. Thats just the tip of the iceburg.
In order of "intenseness"
-Clay Bar
-Polishing
-Buffing
-Color sanding
Clay bar is used to remove containaments in the paint (brake pad dust, rail dust, atmospheric fallout, sap, ect...) You use a detailing spray or other VERY slippery lubricant and gently slide the clay bar over the surface of your paint. It will pickup containaments and embed them into the clay. When a portion of the clay bar begins to get "dirty" fold it into itself and find a new clean portion. if a clay bar is dropped on the ground DO NOT USE, throw it away and get a new piece. NO CLEARCOAT CORRECTION (besides removing containaments).
Polishing is generally uses a random orbital polisher. This makes it VERY difficult to do any harm to your paint such as burning the clear because it never spins the same way twice, but correct operation is essintial to get desired results. Polishers generally use foam pads ranging from cutting pads to finishing/ finessing pads. And use polishes, selants and waxes to get desired results. FINE TO MODERATE CLEARCOAT CORRECTION.
Buffing uses an orbital buffer and generally uses a wool pad to remove wet sanding marks which is then usually followed by polishing. These are fairly hard to master and it is VERY easy to mess up your paint (burn through the clear). Not recommended for detailing use. MODERATE TO HEAVY/"INTENSE" CLEAR COAT CORRECTION
Color sanding or wet sanding uses very fine waterproof sand paper (generally ranges from 1000-4000 grit) and water. The water ensures the sand paper stays clean and the surface does not get to hot. Generally this is used to remove orange peel or use after touching up a scratch and is usually followed by either buffing or polishing. HEAVY/"INTENSE" CLEAR COAT CORECTION (produces a dull finish)
Hope that helps. Thats just the tip of the iceburg.
you need a variable speed buffer aka a DA for removing swirl marks. This is best left to the pros though, as its very easy to kill a hood, fender, etc, etc..
If you would like to learn how to use a DA, find a hood somewhere and go to town on it
If you would like to learn how to use a DA, find a hood somewhere and go to town on it
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 439
First a DA is a dual action or a RANDOM ORBITAL POLISHER not a ROTARY BUFFER in which you are describing...
DA or Random Orbital polisher is very easy to use yet requires the correct technique in order to get the desired results. And a DA or random orbital polisher such as the Porter Cable 7424, is extremely effective at removing swirls. Tip of the day: use the least abrasive method to get the desired results.
DA or Random Orbital polisher is very easy to use yet requires the correct technique in order to get the desired results. And a DA or random orbital polisher such as the Porter Cable 7424, is extremely effective at removing swirls. Tip of the day: use the least abrasive method to get the desired results.
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