Sitting just like mine! Looking good!

 

So, Im definetly gonna get this done in the spring, I did have a question that nobody has talked about here yet, When I look on tire rack for the springs it also recomends cam bolts for alignment! is this really neccessary? have any of you done this? any problems with alignment after the spring install is done?

Thanx in advance

 

Getting an alignment as we speak and they say they have to do a 4 wheel alignment. I noticed that the rear wheels were cambered in slightly and they said they can fix it a little but not much. Anyone else notice this camber issue when lowering?

 

after just springs, my alignment was still within spec. after adding spacers i noticed the negative camber and needed a 4 wheel alignment. if you still have too much you can try a camber kit

 

Well the front is fine he said, think the rear is off a little bit but right now they don't make a camber kit for the rear yet.

 

Tire rack has the Cam bolts that they recommend for the Eibach springs which i believe allow you to go further than the factory bolts to get you back in spec.

 

My alignment is o.k cause before I left my friend's garage, I had them checked. He told he lowering it didn't effect anything. It still rides the same except it's lower . I hope nothing goes wrong once I install rims late in the year .

 

Looks good. Can't wait to see the rims, but that's because I hate the factory 18's pre 2012.

 

yeah those are camber bolts for the front, not the rear.

 

My numbers for my rears were -1.9 before the drop and after the alignment its at -2.1. You can definetly see the camber in the rear but the tech at the shop said its nothing to worry about in regards to tire wear or anything since the car still is dialed in straight.

 

yea same for me man you can see it a little but its not too bad.

 

O ok im not too familiar with the all the camber talk but I was curious as to if that number will eventually wear my rear tires but it seems like it will be ok. If they do ever come out with camber bolts, I probably will get them.

 

Good to see people are using this tread!!

 

with my spacers and spring my car does not track staight i plan on getting alignment

 

Searched around and can't find any torque specs for the install. Anyone can share the torque specs for all the necessary bolts, or share some reference material?

 

Nice write up! Ill get me some Eibachs

I don't have the time to do the install. Ill end up paying a shop to do it. What would it normally cost to have these installed?

Thanks.

 

150 to 200 maybe?

 

Ok, so I had 1 more question regarding the install of the springs on the front, the rear is pretty straight forward.
So when you remove the strut assembly from the vehicle does the top plate with the 3 bolts sticking out of it rotate to ensure that you can align it with the holes in the strut tower? curious cause if you remove the factory spring and install the eibach in there, how do you ensure that the top plate (with the 3 bolts sticking out of it) is in line with the bottom attachment so it will fit back into the 3 holes into the strut tower?

 

You should not have any problems with the re-installation of the front struts. they will slide into place without any issues. did you get the springs put on?

 

Right, just make sure the new springs are properly seated in the "spring seats" or you will have big problems.

 

nice write up!

 

Finally got my springs put on bout 2 weeks ago, not sure if you saw my post for the springs and my new wheels. This post definetly gave me the confidence to tackle this job and thanx to my milwakee torque gun did the job in 3 hours and the rears only took 25 minutes for both!! Thanx again for this great right up

 

Whats the mod # on the box 6392.140??

 

No problem! Glad to see that I could help. I learned how to do the work to my car from forums a few years back when I had my honda. Seeing the pics of what to do really makes it less intimidating to pick up a wrench and get under a car.

 

Did the Eibachs about 2 months ago but I am getting a front pass side clunk or pop over speed bumps or sharp drop off bumps in the road. Also occasionally hear the groaning noise during slow lock to lock turning. Gonna have ot looked at this weekend. Anyone else experience issues after install?

 

I have not experienced any popping noises, everything seems normal and before as far as driving sounds go. BUT I did notce that my passenger rear is not as low as all the other wheels, so I went out and measured the gap by putting a ruler on the tire and measuring the gap from the ruler to the top point of the wheel well and all of them were 1 1/16th " but the passenger rear was 1 1/4" , so I was right and you canvisually see it also if you look hard enough. I will have to take out that rear soring and just make sure that everything is seated properly and reinstall. Thank god its the rear those things are easy enough to do, 10 minutes job.

 

Anything on the clunk sound? Mine does it whe turning the wheel to both sides.

 

I need some help! Just to confirm . The 2 bolts that are attached to the wheel bottom of the front sturt! I can't get those off which side are you supposed to remove...this is the part I'm supposed to hold one side so it doesn't turn on me

 

Just to confirm I don't have impact guns

 

7 hours later with an impact gun I cant get this bolt off! Wtf and its not stripped...

****ty pic but I need help anyone?

 

It isn't likely, but it could have been cross threaded from the factory.

Spray it with penetrating oil or PB Blaster and let it sit for 20 minutes.

You can also use a torch to heat the nut which can help.

 

Thank you. Fortunately I got those two bolts off. I've been up all night trying to get this allen wrench in while I use a wrench to hold it.

This project has went from 2 hours to 18 hours..I hate having my pride but dammit I just cant pay 400 for this install lol

Damn you allen wrench! !

 

Can anyone save me?



Inside the nut is stripped and I can't find anything to put in there

 

You stripped the inside where you put the allen wrench???

Damn, yo =( That's important. You don't want to be rotating that inner shaft.

Take it to a shop see if they can torch the bolt and remove for you. If you can't do that, you're going to have to bite the bullet and maybe get some vice grips to hold the outside of that shaft bolt (whatever it's called?) to hold it in place while you try and wrench out that nut. Gonna screw up the threads... >.<

Make sure all the tension is off that head piece as well if not already. Oh, and grab a cool beer. Keep cool when doing this stuff. It's frustrating enough as it is. Good luck mang =/

 

On second thought, don't use vice grips. =/ Just take it to the shop.

 

Yeah I heard it can mess things up lol Its Sunday and everywhere is closed. Im SOL! I didnt even think I stripped it because the other strut was so easy.....Any other ideas??


I Immediately Regret this decision...

 

I don't see a spring compressor I that pic. You do have the spring compressed, correct?

 

My thoughts are.....a stripped allen in the strut rod will most likely require a trip to Nissan for new strut.
The spring compressor will only assist in getting the old strut rod cut to remove the top mount.
Do take this to a shop to have that part performed...please.

 

The fronts are done!



Just have the back springs left and from what ive read so far its a breeze

 

Good to hear....how did you get past the stripped allen in the strut rod?