Because I have extended warranty and was wondering???

 

No, doesn't void warranty but if anything happens suspension-wise or as a result of your mod(s) then it's on you for making the mod from OEM. I have the extended hoobidy-doo warranty with the golden parachutes and a side of everything else in case sh*t happens also.

No worries

 

Good to know. I too have the thingy majigy super duper extravaganza warranty ;-). Thanks again and appreciate all the help.

 

Did this install with a friend of mine who is a Tech. We are both familiar with replacing struts/shocks and or springs. I really appreciate that you took the time to make this DIY for people less familiar.

I do have a question though. Whats the fix on the spring creak? Everything is torqued and put together properly.. Anyone find a solution other than turning up the radio or wrapping spring with some kind of tubing that some people say works..??.. Car has 3000 miles on it. Ive ruled out bearings, bushings, sway bar links etc... Only creaks at slow speeds when turning wheel lock to lock or not moving and turning steering wheel from lock to lock..

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

-Abe

 

...... Continued

I jacked the car up and to unload the springs in the front. I grabbed the spring and rotated about a half inch from the stop on the perch. I then wrapped the lower springs (the coils that touch) with spiral wiring loom wrap that you can buy at radio shack. I then took some bearing grease and slightly lubricated the springs that touch when the car is on the ground . No tug and release popping and creaking when turning the wheel from left to right while going slow or still. Let me know if this works for you

-Abe

 

Ya, those with noise it has to do with the install. It's critical to have everything lined up.

 

I just got my suspension done, I did eibach springs, spc camber arms, spc cam bolts, stillen front strut bar and stillen rear sway bar. I am very happy with the way it looks and drives, but I am getting the creaking/popping from the front, like with the wheel turned all the way left and gassing it, or all the way to the right. My installer called eibach and they said they haven't really tested these springs out yet. Is there any way to fix it? My car is a 2014 sv sport. The installer did check again and everything is tight, he said the spring is rotating. Any ideas?

 

There is a rotating spacer on the top, if that has friction it could cause a problem. I cleaned mine out so it spun freely but it was a bit stiff prior. I also made sure the bottom of the spring was sitting exactly in the cup.

If there are sounds when turning it is a install issue. I have installed springs on all 4 of my prior Maximas and can tell you I had that issue once and it was because the lower part of the spring was not sitting in the cup correctly. The upper rotating spacer needs to be free from friction and spin correctly prior to install as well.

 

Ok, back to the installer I go! Thanks!

 

This is the strut bearing:


It needs to spin freely to prevent your springs from rotating as you turn the wheel. It sits right below the upper hat:



Then be sure the lower part of the spring is properly sitting on the lower "cup".

 

Perfect I will have the installer check those parts. My car only has 10k on it, but I think it was sitting for a while before I bought it so maybe they are binding. I think u solved my problem I will report back

 

I went back to them, they said that the springs rotate a little when turning the wheel that is what's causing it. They said the hearings are fine since the car only has 10k miles on it. They put some plastic stuff over the springs but I am still getting the noise but it is much better. I am just going to bring the car to nissan and tell them to check the strut bearings and fix the noise I don't want any suspension noises on a brand new car.

 

The springs will only rotate if the car is unloaded (on a jack). When the car is sitting on the springs they are compressed and should not move. This is the whole reason for the bearing at the top, to prevent any movement when turning. I do not have any noises on mine so you should not on yours.

Is it on both fronts or just one?

 

It's more the drivers side, but occasionally the passanger side one will do it too. Is anyone in south Florida that could recommend a good shop to get this fixed?

 

Well now I am getting a little noise from the passanger side rear, when going from reverse to drive. This is really getting on my nerves...

 

Doubt it is the spring.

 

I'm trying to find another installer, if not I'll bring it to the nissan dealer

 

Where did you buy these from?

 

I bought them from Stillen, and had them installed at a place they recommended

 

Went to nissan today, they were like DERP its your back wheels hitting the liner. Lol so much for that idea but they did fix my alignment more than the last place so at least my back wheels aren't all cambered in like STANCENATION YO! I think I found a shop to fix it I'm going to try this week..

 

I have the same clunk at the front with my Pro Kit.


I have an appointement to the dealer next week to replace the front top plates. This is what they suspect after a road test.


After reading this forum and talking with the tech guy, I'm not so confident that this strange noise when turning the wheel lock to lock at low speed and at park will disappear.


I'm starting to think the springs might be the root cause because of a different spring constant created by an aftermarket spring.


My 2012 Maxima has only 6500 miles...

 

I want to get this fixed as well. My 2014 has like 12k miles on it, and the clunks have gotten better over time but I still don't like noises in a brand new car. The dealer was no help they said my tire was hitting the fender liner (it isn't). I'm going to try a different shop that has good reviews

 

Just came back from the dealer. They changed the top plate bearings and the noise is still there. If the spring was not properly installed the first time, I doubt it was not installed correctly the second time by a different guy.


I think I will have to make a difficult choice. Keep the noise and have a better handling/look or reinstall the OEM spring and get rid of any noise and use my 350Z for aggressive driving !

 

Just did this yesterday with the racingline sway bar as well. Nice write up. It def saved me some cash so I had to prop Stlbluzoo11 appropriately.

FWIW I had the spring pop on my front passenger side after install. I popped the wheel back off and took a look to find the spring wasn't seated properly in the lower groove of the rubber insulator. When you rotate the spring with the car unloaded be sure you move the spring but not the rubber insulator as it needs to cup into the metal part supporting the spring itself. Also for anyone who has never attempted this before, I suggest going to buy new end links up front. You will likely break them or have to cut them off to install the front springs. Same deal applies if you are doing the rear sway bar.

 

There should be no need for new end links, and you are doing something wrong if they break or have to cut off.

Again, to everyone with noises.... Have you checked to see if the end link bolts are tight?
You need to put a wrench on the back side when tightening them. This isn't something you can look at or wiggle. They need to be tight or they will make noise on bumps and turns.

 

Very True. I agree with you but I think your perspective is based on where you keep the car. I am in NY/NJ/CT. If you live in an area with heavily salted roads they will likely be rusted out. The fronts came off very easily but were shot on a 2011 max at 30k. The rears had to be cut off but the actual ball joint was fine. I wouldn't put those back on the car IF I could get them off without damaging them but that's my opinion. They are 15 bucks a piece give or take. I personally don't want to have to leave the house in the middle of an install for a $15 part if it comes to that..

Just to be clear for others, you dont need to touch rear endlinks at all on a spring install, but I did the sawy bar at the same time so I actually had to disconnect rear endlinks.

 

Just installed this with my boy. Was actually very easy!!! Loved this write up but you will need a 21mm socket and wrench in addition to everything else.

 

So do you have any noises when turning wheels any side on slow speed?

 

Not one. The car on the outside is actually noticeable lower but when I drive it, the drive comfort feels the same. Love it

 

Seeing the issues on squeaking here, and about to replace my struts (yes....with the original springs)...I was wondering if applying a heavy grease to the springs where they contact the strut (end caps?) and/or that upper bearing before reassembling the parts might avoid the squeaking?