Hi, I hope to be a regular member here at the forums. I signed up because my company made me an offer for an '09 loaded Maxima (sport package, cold weather, leather everything, 19" wheels, etc. etc.) for $21,000. It has 55,700 miles on it as of this morning (I personally saw was in the vehicle again).

The car was driven from the dealership in Minnesota to our corporate office in Wisconsin, a distance of about 336 miles. I know that it arrived in Wisconsin with 664 miles on it, so prior to it's trip it had 328 miles put on it elsewhere.

My question is this: The break-in driving schedule for the first 1,200 miles was definitely not followed because it no doubt was on the Interstate probably doing 70-75 MPH most of the trip.

The car sounds fine, drove fine, seemed to have plenty of power, and doesn't seem to have any mechanical issues. The company mechanics changed oil w/ semi-synth every 5k miles, which is also a bit high IMO. Am I worried over the early miles and improper break-in procedure for nothing, or should I be leary of this car?

Thanks for any feedback! I love the car, but because I know how it started its life it has made me a bit paranoid.

5-7

P.S. sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I was reading other threads that gave the appearnce that the VQ35DE in this generation has differences from previous generations, so I figured my question was gen specific.

 

Break-In? I have never had to break in a new car and have bought a handful. No dealership has even mentioned break-in to me. Of course I don't beat on the car for the first month or two but then again I don't baby it either. I picked up a 2012 Limited Edition model last week and no one mentioned anything about break-in The following day I drove it on a 300 mile round trip and am not worried in the least. 5k mile oil changes for a highway mile car as the one your looking at is fine. If it where 5k city miles I would be worried.

 

you don't have to follow break in procedures. they do most of the breaking in at the factory. when i had my ninja 250 this was THE best site for anything technical related to that bike but it also has some good general info. here's a link http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_re...k-in_period%3F obviously disregard the ninja 250 part but good info about break in procedure. this site and ninja250.org are THE best forums i've ever been on. ninja250 is a lot more organized though , all the info you need is a click away. please don't ban me lol

basically you're supposed to take it easy for the first couple of hundred miles. i'm sure that on the highway the engine wasn't being stressed at all. it runs in final gear at probably 2500rpm or less with less than 20% throttle.

 

I agree w/ the others - shouldn't be a "break in" timeframe. The only time I have seen a break-in on an engine was a '91 BMW M3 (E30) - had to keep it under 4k rpm for the first 2500 miles.

otherwise, enjoy the car! And keep up w/ service intervals.........

 

best break in method ever was my friend who bought and brand new STI....left the dealership sideways and bouncing off the rev limiter....no break in required

 

It seems there are different opinions on this some say there is a break in such as not revving over 4000 for like the first 4,000 miles or so and others say none needed....

 

The daily drive, round trip, is about 20 miles for the car w/ about half that as faster speed city roads (45 MPH) and the other half a rural area which is probably 45-55 MPH. Not a heavy stop & go route, though. Not sure how much impact that would make. I was a bit bummed when I saw their oil change schedule for the car over the past three year. On average it was 5k miles between changes. Highest interval was 6k. Lowest was 3k. I think it was whenever they could slot him in between trips.

 

thats what kawasaki says with their bikes but for the first 1000km. 4000km is an excessive break in time imo. it doesn't make sense. there are big vtwins that reline at 6k rpms and you can use 60% of the rev range. other bikes such as the super sport 4 cyls or even the ninja 250 rev to 11k or the 250's case 13k. doesn't seem right to me, i don't think theres a formula for breaking in just take it easy for the first bit. Running a ninja 250 under 4k rpm is difficult, almost no power and gears are short and you can't even get on the highway like that.

please read the link i posted

 

I have had 3 new maxes. never had a break in period. I dont hotrod them, around 60 or so on the road, but the biggest thing i try to do is be easy on the brakes, use a lot of downshifting and pumping brakes, and trying not to get on them to hard for about the first 500 miles or so then call it good enough. never have had any problems.

 

I appreciate the feedback. After review of the oil change intervals I feel that they were kind of drawn out, but driving in the city of Appleton, WI isn't the same as driving in Chicago or New York! I'd put it back on regular 3,750 intervals per the service guide anyway.

If I can get it for $19,500 that seems pretty fair to me. Thanks again. Hopefully I'll be back here soon with pictures!

5-7

 

Did 100 first day i had mine with 13 miles on it

 

Take the grinders posting here with a grain of salt. There IS INDEED a breakin period for the Maxima, as well as virtually every car on the market. It is right there in the Owner's Manual, which most folks never read. And there are reasons the engineers of virtually every car on the market specify a breakin period.

Yes, we have lots of folks who ignore the breaking period. And they probably get away with doing so more often than not. But that SECOND hundred thousand miles is where the treatment the car received during breakin starts to show.

I have always followed the breaking stipulations very carefully, even extending the breakin period to 24K. As a result, I have had virtually no problems with my Maximas, have owned nothing but Maximas since Oct 1984, and have driven them as much as 206,000 miles with no problems.

In your case, I would not worry about the 75 MPH freeway trip, as freeway mileage is actually easier on a car than city driving. As long as most of the miles are on pavement, I would not worry about the 5K oil change period, especially since they are using a synthetic blend.

The primary thing I try to observe is to not rev the car over 4K RPMs the first 2400 miles. Those who say the manufacturer breaks the engines in before the car is sold are not correct. That is an urban myth. I have been to Decherd TN (where Maxima engines are made), and I have been to the Smyrna assembly plant and followed Maximas through the line several times, and the engines are NOT 'broken in' before the car arrives at the dealer.

Having said that, I would feel that after a few hundred miles, easing the RPMs up to 5K or so should not be a major risk. I feel redlining a car with less than a thousand miles on the odo is abuse, pure and simple. But others will disagree. We will always have folks that are willing to play Russian Roulette.

The other two things I am careful with during the first 2400 miles are avoiding jack-rabbit starts and extreme braking. Those two actions put great stress on mechanical components, and will be handled much easier by the car once all the moving parts have had a chance to 'mate' to a smooth fit.

In your case, there is no way to know how your car was treated, so all you can do is check everything you can, and treat it well from this time forward. If it seems perfect at this point, it may well be a car you will have little trouble with. If there is any way possible, try to see if you can get at least a 30 day warranty, in case a major problem has been overlooked.

Best wishes, and keep us informed.

 

Id like to see someone in the real world go 24K and keep one in the boundries of a so called "break in period", yeah right. Go back to another dealership or call the factory reps on this. Your "break in Period" is done at the factory. All engines are started and ran to ensure break in period is done before vehicle is ever shipped from factory. Also to those that think their car has never been in the rain or snow, don' t drive by the plant in TN. You'll get very disappointed. No new vehicle except factory supersport cars like ZR1's and viper's etc. have a break in period anymore. haven't for years. These cars are as durable as they get. I have done the research on this before i bought my new a few weeks ago. Didn't believe my dealer so I called several other dealerships and the customer service line for nissan and got the same thing everywhere and from everyone i spoke with. Just drive the car like a normal person and you will have no problems.

Plus do you really think the factory doesn't have a quality assurance program that makes sure the cars aren't ready for the road before they reach the dealership. I know this guy says he's been there but seriously?!! You can't tell me that nissan doesn't make sure the car even runs before shipping it out to dealers???? come on now we aint' ignorant.

 

No disrespect to donhd04, but it's quite obvious HE/SHE did NOT read his manual.

Lightonthehill, as usual, is the voice of reason.

5-19 in your manual, if you care to read it.

During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km),
follow these recommendations to obtain
maximum engine performance and ensure
the future reliability and economy of
your new vehicle. Failure to follow these
recommendations may result in shortened
engine life and reduced engine
performance.
c Avoid driving for long periods at constant
speed, either fast or slow, and do not run the
engine over 4,000 rpm.
c Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.
c Avoid quick starts.
c Avoid hard braking as much as possible.
c Do not tow a trailer for the first 500 Mi (800
km). Your engine, axle or other parts could
be damaged.

Nissan and their engineers WROTE that specifically in the manual. I would think they know their own product.

In the end, it is YOUR car, treat it how you want. Follow the manu's recommendations, or don't.

 

To the original poster, no such thing as a break-in period with 55k

and for the break-in period, all cars have them, most people have no idea what they are and hence why used cars all look beat to hell, and why people continue to buy new

a wise man told me what wears in wears out, you break the car in fast it wears out faster

 

Sooooo basically... take it easy for the first 1200. That's pretty much what every car/bike manufacturer says.

I spent time reading replies Nd I Don't think anybody cared read my link :/ thanks takes 2 min.

Just don't go crazy, enjoy your new max

 

I have no intention of arguing your points, but will just say:

Nobody mentioned 24K. I simply said I follow the Owner's Manual for the first 1,200 miles, then continue to take things sort of easy up to around 2,400 miles, gradually increasing the stress and RPMs as I approach the 2,400 mile mark.

I didn't understand the rain and snow remark. I have been buying cars since 1949, and I have never seen a new car arrive at a dealer clean. These days, white plastic is used to protect horizontal surfaces, and styrofoam blocks are used to protect bumpers, but the cars arrive dirty.

You may have missed my statement that I have been to Dechard TN and watched Maxima engines built, and have been to the Smyrna assembly line several times and watched Maximas being built. Yes, the engines are run. But only for a minute or two. I have also seen the thousands of new cars sitting on the huge lots outside the assembly plants, often for weeks, depending on what dealers need.

What I did not mention is that I have been to dozens of assembly lines over the past sixty years, many times as part of my thirty-five years with a large transportation company that moves thousands of new vehicles each month. I have seen the way the engines are 'broken in' at Decherd and Smyrna (and other assembly plants), and we are talking minutes, not 1,200 miles.

I spent three months at the old GM assembly plant in Doraville GA, and one month at the Ford plant in Clacomo MO, analyzing the flow of parts (being delivered there by my company) arriving at the lines. I had unrestricted access to all parts of those plants, and took full advantage of that freedom.

I also did not mention that am a longtime friend of the gentleman who owns the two nearest Nissan dealerships to my home, and personally know the folks that work there. I have known many of them for over fifteen years. I spend time there discussing vehicles when I am not even there for service.

I know when speedometers are hooked up in new cars, and what it means when the cars usually arrive at dealerships with single digit miles on them. And I also know what it means when Nissan representatives say 'drive nornmally' during breakin. 'Normally' to a normal person does NOT include elapsed trime runs, redlining the car, jackrabbit starts, hard braking (except in an emergency), and driving 100 MPH.

In a nutshell, cars do NOT arrive at dealerships 'broken in.' It takes 1200 miles or so of reasonable driving to properly break a car in.

 

^^^^^^I second all of that^^^^^^^!

My 10Max is the 3rd new Nissan I have owned and 4th new car I've owned. Any new engine needs proper breakin, as evidenced by the fact that every Nissan I have had used a quart of oil within the 1st 500 miles and another 1/4th quart in the second 500 miles. After that, between my previous 07 Altima 3.5SE and 09 370Z and current Maxima, none have used a drop of oil.....even when the Maxima was pushed to a 13000 mile oil change.

The MOST important part of breakin, from what I've read, is to never maintain the same rpm for a long length of time. Vary rpms as much as possible. I, however, have always heard that it is ok to redline engine provided you gradually work up to it between periods of complete cooldown.

Late,
Trav

 

I wont have mine long enough lol

 

yes, this is exactly how i broke in my new ninja 250.

 

Blah Blah Blah!!!!!! All motors are broken in before they are put in any car!! They have to make sure they are running properly are have no leaks around the head and block!! THATS A FACT!!!!

 

I know that my topic here was meant to be related to the break-in period of the car. I also get the drift that whether or not someone follows the break-in process is similar to the debate of "what oil do you use?" Sorry if I caused any butt hurt here! I must admit, for my limited time on the forums from what I've read so far this seems like a really constructive place. I'm biased because I'm a SpeedZilla member (RC51) and everyone there rips apart nearly every one else. I digres...

I just wanted to come full circle quick and mention that I likely won't be getting the car my company originally offered. After a second evaluation yesterday I found that essentially no regular maintenance had been performed by the garage mechanics. Our company also owns dealerships and provides cars as corporate vehicles to certain employees. They service them in-house at the truck shop facility. This Maxima had never had the air filter changed (was clogged severly), the brake fluid was low, the coolant was below minimum, and after 30 minutes of driving city/highway the CVT fluid was nothing but a spec on the end of the dipstick (checked in P and N to be sure). Moreoever, the dealer was firm on the original price and rejected my offer to pay more for Nissan Certification. So I'll keep searching.

 

What year and options? How many miles and what was their asking price?

I just dont know if that would all stop me from buying....depending on condition. Brake fluid low likely just means that brake pads need to be changed. The coolant is nearly always below minimum on my Maxima. Its 2010 and despite the dealer saying its fine...I always smell coolant and its always loosing coolant somewhere...dont care what they say. As far as the CVT fluid....unless there was a drivability problem or there is a leak identified, this wouldnt concern me. I'd change the fluid, do an analysis of it (sent mine in when changed at 45,000mi for comparison if youd like) and not worry. Up to 2010, they carry 10 year/ 100,000 mile factory warranty, anyhow.

Late,
Trav

 

So a five minute run of the engine to be sure it doesn't leak and sounds right is equivalent to the recommended 1,200 miles of breakin for the engine, tranny, brakes, and all other moving parts in the car?

 

Factory produced cars that roll off an assembly line, usually the 1st time they start the engine is when they drive them to the lot and park them, depending on the the manufacture and the type of checks they do on the cars on the line, they may only check 1 in 10 engines to make sure it is within factory specs and can withstand the tolerances they built them to withstand

 

I am not up to date on what Nissan does to the cars, especially the Maxima, but I know for sure a broken in engine or a not properly broken in engine, the same outcome, car will not last long, when I was a tech I saw plenty of car just past 100k with blown engines, hard driving adds up to a lot of premature engine wear, so you think the car has 100k on it, but the engine looks like it has over 300k

 

Yooooo Papies01 dont forget about that bumper swap for that lip

 

Absolutely right. And reasonable treatment of the car should not stop at 1,200 miles. A car doesn't have to be babied its entire life, but hard driving should not be an everyday ocurrence, or a car will not last nearly as long.

As to Nissan and the Maxima, during the time I watched the line at Smyrna, the cars were being driven from the end of the assembly line via what looked to be a paper check, then out to the parking lot. According to some here, that qualifies as the 1,200 mile breakin. You and I know better. It is not 1,200 miles from the end of the assembly line to the parking lot. More like 1,200 feet.

 

Slightly on topic, I saw one of those Ultimate factory shows over the weekend...Lambo.

They actually put every engine on a Dyno no less than 3 times before the car is finished. So much for break-in!

 

Yep; those dynos can put 1,200 miles on a car's tranny and braking system in seconds .