rottdog300

I know a lot of people hate the bose system from the maxima, But honestly i don't want to replace the head unit and lose my navigation and back-up camera. So basically what i want to do is add an amp and sub to my car.

I know the best way or only way that i know of is using a line converter. but what i need to know is are there any threads or walk thru's for this. I've been searching for a few weeks and either i'm completely blind or there isn't one. What's the best way to go about doing this , i already have the sub and amp. I just need some direction on where to go next.

Ghozt

this thread helped me when I added an amp/sub to my setup. I didn't use the Basslink but the idea is the same obviously

http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...tallation.html

rottdog300

thank you very much i appreciate it.

zman764

The bose system already has an amp correct? I am not an a/v guy but shouldn't it be pretty simple to swap it our for a beffier one?

Ghozt

yea theres an amp mounted on the ceiling of the trunk in the car. you can try tapping into it but it may not do you much, Bose amps/speakers are low wattage but low resistance (ohms) so sound nice together.

the Basslink is a nice all-in-one solution to add more bass to the Max. I personally picked up an Alpine 1242D and matching 12" sub. I have it at half gain and it's MORE than enough

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

FYI....the Infinity Basslink discussed in the DIY thread......there are a few on ebay going for sub $200

bgchz56

all you need is a high/low converter. my system looks stock up until you turn the volume up. the piece costs maybe 20 bucks

20_Maxima_10

I recommend the LC2i from Audiocontrol for subs in our cars with bose. Bose systems trim the bass at half volume to conserve the speakers therefore trimming bass going through ur hi/lo converter. This piece you dial in to keep a constant signal after half volume.

andremike

Can you explain this more? Will i be dissapointed if use a regular line converter? Or is the lc2 the only one to use. I am trying to understand the best way to hook this up so i can make my installer does it right.

dexcool

20_Maxima_10 is saying the LC2i is different from a standard line converter by letting you [yourself] adjust the gain/level of the signal being produced going to your aftermarket amp as opposed to a standard line converter which will adjust as the signal from your head unit adjusts. In this case with the Bose, after half volume, your bass level will begin to decrease (automatically) to preserve the Bose speakers (OEM).
You will still be able to adjust the bass level from your head unit, you just wont have to worry about the bass level to your aftermarket setup being automatically reduced as you increase system volume.

Hope that helps!

dexcool

The LC2i is the recommendation, the standard is just that, standard. You probably wont be disappointed, but apparently the LC2i is a better designed product.

andremike

So with the gain control **** on the lc2i I can choose how much louder the subs will be then the factory setup? The volume on the subs will still go up and down based on the volume **** right?


So I am looking at the Rockford punch P300-12. It has a remote bass control ****. How might that be different then this adjustment on the lc2i?


What part of the bose system is limiting the bass after half volume? Is there any write up on this I could read?


If you tap into other parts of the audio system will this reduction in bass at half volume not occur?


Also, could someone chime in that has a standard LOC and tell me how it sounds? Do I really need this? I just get stumped when I talk to car stereo specialists and they know nothing about this.. Maybe I need to find someone else

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

If I'm not mistaken we've covered this several times already. LC2i is the way to go. High quality piece of equipment that has excellent reviews. Go to Crutchfield & read the reviews & read up on it, user manual is available for download as well.

dexcool

Gain control is like signal level. Sub volume will still go up and down via h/u volume control.

Bass **** on amp is essentially the same principal, except you will be able to control the gain/level of the actual amp. Once the LC2i is adjusted to your satisfaction, then you use bass ****; crank it for more bass, lower it for less.

I dont have extended knowledge on Bose itself, but more than likely components and engineering in the Bose amp is what trims the bass once you pass half volume. Keep researching for related material...

As far as tapping in elsewhere, u should be tapping into speaker outputs only....

andremike

Ok, guess I am sold on the LC2i then.. I see in the instruction manual that it could provide an output for high/mids as well. Like I mentioned before, I would like to remove the rear deck speaker and installl a full range speaker and an extra amp. My questions are this...

1. Where would I install the LC2i in order to get full range? I assume I can not use the wires that went to the existing rear deck speakers. Could I install this at the input to the amp on the rear deck? or is the input to the the amp also frequency limited for just low's? How would the LC2i get installed?
2. Would the radio care if it is missing the rear deck speakers
3. I see the akp for all the speakers is on the rear deck. Could you tap into the speaker inputs into tge amp. Would that be difficult?

andremike

Has anyone built a custom sub box to fit in the corner of the trunk? I am wondering if that is possible and if anyone has a pic. Wonder how much that would be.....

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

The guy with that really nice white Maxima has.

20 MAXIMA 10

andremike

So yesterday i was listening to xm and was wondering why there seems to be more bass with xm then my ipod.. after lookinh at my ipod i noticed the eq was on. So i changed the setting to bass boost. What a difference in the bass. But now i am noticing that my center speaker is getting muddy... i just cant win.. i may try some other settings on the ipod. even if i lower the bass in the car it still gets muddy..

So how will this work with a sub? will my speakers be muddy? Is the advantage of the lc2i allow me to keep the bass lower in the car but crank it up onthe lc2i? Or no

andremike

So here is what I decided to add to my Maxima,

A single 12" JL Audio W0V3 woofer
Install woofer into Sound Ordinance Bass Bunker Model BB12-200V
Alpine MRV-M500 - 300W @ 4 ohms amplifier
Alpine RUX-**** - alllows me to adjust the amp/bass
4 gauge amplifier wiring
And a PAC SNI-35 Line converter.

What do you guys think of this addition to the factory setup?

WesHild

I am running a 12" JL in my max. PAC isnt a good choice in my opinion. I used a LC2i.. better quality better sound.

andremike

I have gone round and round with either a standard line converter or a lc2i.. 4 installers i talked to say its not neccesary. You guys say it is. Have you tried the pac and then converted to the lc2i? Where did you hook up the lc2i? At the rear speakers?

2011maximapa

Is anyone near pa and willing to help me install the same set up? I'll have all the necessary and recommended parts I just don't feel comfortable doing it myself. Obviously I'll compensate your time. Let me know if anyone can help please.

WesHild

I had a Pac installed first, then switched to an LC2i. I personally could notice the difference. I tapped into the rear speakers.

andremike

A big difference? Enough to justify using it

andremike

I question myself if i really need subs. Sometime the stock radio sounds good. But not enough bass....

So if i use the lc2i, will i be able to turn the bass way down on tge factory headunit and get all of my bass out of the 12 sub? I want to turn tge vass doen so the interior speakers dont get muffled from the bass. And just put out mids... thoughts?

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

That is what I did. Had the bass on +4 before the subs, now it stays at 0 in the settings.

Also, you would be much, much happier with a W3 instead of a W0 sub.

andremike

?? Do you mean a TW3 or a w3?? both of them are way more then I want to spend..


So with it 0 do you get loud and shaking bass? would the bass be good at -2 or so?

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

12w3v3 ($280): http://www.jlaudio.com/12w3v3-2-car-...-drivers-92153
300W is perfect to power this sub.

Even the W1 is a good step up from the W0.

I'm running a JL 13w6, so there is no way to compare my settings to what you would be getting.
Though, I would never turn the bass below 0, because you loose the fullness in the stock system.

JakeOfAllTrades

iTrader: (1)

Just in case anyone is looking for another option, this is what I did. Pretty happy with it still. https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...mote-line.html

andremike

Thanks, im stepping up from the wxv2.. to get the w0. and I was originally getting Rockford fosgate subs, then I was told to get jl.. so that's another upgrade

andremike

so everything else is stock? just the addition of the subs...


sorry guys if these are all repeat questions.. someone needs to make 1 thread with all of this information and make it a sticky.

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

This information is also available by searching. That's what I, & many others have done.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

Yes, everything else is stock. I didn't want to go the the expense and work (which I do all myself) to add a signal processor, amp, and new speakers all the way around. That is probably a $2k+ endeavor, to do the minimum of what I want.

For what it is, the stock Bose is fairly decent, and you will find that adding a sub really, really helps round it all out and fill in the lows.
I'm not sure you will get real, loud, rattling bass from your proposed setup, but it will absolutely make the whole system sound better.

I only have $100 in my JL 500/1, $300 in my 13w6, $100 in wiring, and $200 in the box. So, $700 for the whole setup. I was using two 10w3 that I picked up for $150 before I upgraded. When I want gear, I just watch craigslist to scoop up the deals.
The box is fiberglass built into the spare well, with the wood floor as just a beauty cover.

andremike

so after talking to the installer, i'm now thinking of 2 - 12" w0 woofers instead of 1.... decisions...

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

You can get a W3 for the price of two W0; and it will sound better.

2011maximapa

Anyone?

andremike

You really think 1 w3 would be better then 2 w0? Will it be as loud?
Would u get a 2 ohm ti run. 500watts to it?




I looked closer at this ported box size to hold 2 12" and I think it might be too big. 30"x15"x24". its huge. SO now I am thinking what if I just get 1 W3V3 @2ohm 500Watts ported box, built to JL specs.


What do you think?

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

I think that it would sound fantastic, and be quite loud. Not earth shaking, but still loud.

Yes, a single W3 will be louder than 2 W0 subs. It is a function of their excursion.

andremike

So the jl audio rep told me if i run with 1 12w3 i should put a jx250 amp So as to not destroy the speaker.. I was thinking about using mrv-m500. At least it gives me room... i thought i would run the m500 at just above min gain or about 300watts.

I hope im making the right decision.. i guess 1 12w3 is better then 2 10w0...

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

Your current amp will be fine.