Personally I would be happy with either. The T line of subs has always impressed me.

 

so no advantage or disadvantages? I mean space really isn't that much of a concern.. a 12W3 in a seald box would fit fine.. the 12TW3 is smaller, but at what tradeoff?

 

Depends on the amp that is included and how/where it is placed in the trunk.
The tw3 has impressive linear cone travel, so I doubt you would lose anything over the w3 if the amps and relative boxes are equal.

 

That's where I have mine installed too.

 

I had Smart Start installed today, so of course I was staring at car audio for a few hours lol. I had them work up a quote to add a sub in a small sealed box. I don't want something that rattles the car apart like I did when I was a kid, just something that adds some punch and low end.

They quoted me $725 for:

1 10" JL W1V3 2ohm $179.99
1 JX250/1 2ohm $199.99
Box $45
Amp Kit $47
RCA cables $20
2 channel LOC w/remote bass level control $50
install labor/misc materials $135
Tax $48

I just bought the JX250 off Amazon for $117 so that saved me $80, so that would make it about $650. About 15 years ago or so I had a single 10" JL in my Cougar, big ported box back then, but it sounded great. Over the years I had quite a few subs but always preferred JLs.

 

Ok So I have an appointment for the sub install Saturday. I ended up buying an lc2i and the remote **** for it. Where have you guys installed the remote **** at? The picture above is a different style then the one I bought: http://www.crutchfield.ca/AudioContr..._p/161ACR1.htm

This one looks like it's designed to go under the dash, just curious where other people have put it. I was thinking inside the center console where the power port is, but not sure if the shop would be willing to do that or how much they would charge for it.

Also I am thinking about doing a 10" W3v3 instead of the W1v3, but since I already bought the JX 250/1 I'm not sure if it would be enough power for the W3.

 

The only bad thing about buying JL products off of amazon is JL will not warranty it because you didn't buy it through an authorized retailer.

You will probably be fine with the W1, The W3 is a better speaker, but if you were to go with the W3 then you prob should of bought the JX500 amp.

I would of bought the control **** for the amp, not the LC2. or buy both.. but I think you would want the amp first.

I have yet to pull the trigger myself..

 

Ya. That's the way I did it, put the **** next to the key slot. I had to dremmel it out, but I couldn't be happier with it.

https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...mote-line.html

 

Some of the car stereo forums I was searching said that the control **** for the lc2i was all you needed, that the **** for the amp was just a bass boost not actual power/volume where the remote **** for the lc2i would control the actual power/volume.

As for buying off Amazon, I figured getting it for over 40% cheaper then buying it in a store was worth the risk.

 

I really liked this, but with the setup for the remote **** for the lc2i it does't look possible, I was hoping someone who installed the lc2i remote **** found a good location for it.

 

Bossman, What made you decide to go witht he LC2i? When you get it installed let me know how it sounds and if there is still bass roll off

A friend stopped by as he just bought 2-10" Kicker subs in a sealed box with 800W and i was a little underwhelmed. i thought it would be louder. I was really surprised by the bass roll off the factory system was doing as you increased the volume.. He only had a standard LOC. Will the max roll off alot or not to much since the rear deck is already a sub speaker?

I was also surprised at the 7 band factory equalizer that the car had and how by playing with the 40Hz **** I was able to drastically change the bass. I wasn't expecting that. Will the max's bass control effect the subs? or again is this another reason to go with the LC2i

 

Yes, the lc2i is supposed to eliminate the issue of bass being reduced due to factory head unit trying to keep the factory speakers from blowing. This is why I went with it over the standard LOC. There have been a few posts on here where people say it makes a difference. I will report back once the install is done Saturday.

 

Yea i read all that... what throws me off is i called 4 professional car audi installers and they tell me i dont need it...

Whi is doing your instal? Let me know how it goes.. will you be calibrating it? Or the installer?

 

My installer told me that too, but they also don't sell the lc2i or any active LOC for that matter, I think it's in their best interest to stick with what they sell. Stero West in Omaha, NE is doing my install. I have been using them for over 20 years.

 

So just as i figured the jl audio sub enclosure with the w3v3 is now obsolete....

So i think i am going with the ProWedge, CS112G-TW3. I guess the tw3 is a nice sub.. thenbi am getting the jx500 amp with the remote bass control ****. So that setup total price, installed will be about $850.00.

Thoughts?

Jl audio just cam out with their new powerwedgemax+... its a tw1 with a dcd 400w amp. But i dont think i want to be a guinea pig for this new setup..

My only other option is to use the w3v3 with store bought or custom box

 

Not to beat a dead horse, but I have a quick question. I have two subs installed in my Max. After a certain volume level, specifically 3/4 of the way, my amp turns off. Now my first idea was that I was overpowering it. I am using a PAC audio LOC. Do you think the LC2i would solve my problem? I swapped these in working condition from my other vehicle. I even swapped amps from a buddies car and his wouldn't even kick on. If someone could be kind enough to post the exact wiring for a 2010 Maxima SV with Navi/Bose/Backup cam that would be great. I want to make sure my wiring is correct before I go ahead and swap out the LOC. I never had this turning off issue on my old car.

 

Here it is....

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/AV.pdf


Rest of FSM

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/