I did. I saw all this. Most of what I saw was bad front ball joints. Which is a different part entirely.
The rear camber arm (saw 2 online) were broken from possibly a loose Jam nut or maybe faulty metal.
I'll take my chances, install them correctly and hope they hold up. They feel like a good quality part.
You can't take a handful of bad instances found on the interwebz and assume they are all this way.
And these are called K2 and the whole kit was $68 shipped. I'll chance it and hope to not eat my words. I have many other toys and priorities so if I can save $100 on my daily roller I will.
Excited to get this - 2.5 camber back to bout - 1.0 and suck in the bottom of the tire so it looks right.

 

The difference is, go search and try to find anyone with these issues who have Eibach/SPC. You can't. The price difference is under a $100, personally it's not worth the risk to me of going cheap and having stuff break on the car. I went with the more expensive ones that don't have issues.

 

I didn't want to take a chance.....so I went with SPC.

 

Rear camber kit installed.

Disappointed that we could only get - 2 degrees of camber without getting too much toe in. Basically the same issue I had before the kit. I'm dumbfounded. I ground out the toe adjustment holes so I can't understand why the rear didn't have more adjustment.
Even if the kit was made by someone else it would have been the same in this respect.
The toe is adjusted with the spring bucket arm. That arm is about 1/16" away from hitting the subframe so no more toe would be possible anyway.
I don't get how others are getting their rears correct.
We left it at
. 10 toe in on both sides and - 2.0 camber.

 

Did you longate the holes on the camber kits?

 

Yes I elongated the toe slots (spring bucket mounting point)

 

Could it be the springs causing the problem then?

 

No

 

The SPC/Eibachs can correct for more camber than the Ichibas as well. Those comments are in the links I provided earlier.

 

Also, any aligment place that left you with toe not in the green is not a good alignment shop.

 

The camber isn't the issue. We could have gotten less camber but it made it toe in too far. The toe is in the green.

Does anyone have their alignment specs with a lower than Eibach drop Maxima? Wondering if anyone else has gotten their camber better than mine.

 

Yes I know how it works, as you adjust the camber it changes the toe. So as I mentioned before, the SPC/Eibach set allows for MORE ADJUSTMENT. You are so stubborn guy. Good luck not listening to anyone's advice, I'm a little perplexed as to why you ask questions and then ignore the answers then come back with more problems and ignore the advice again. I'm going to drop a link attempting to help you again knowing full well you'll ignore it and plod on in the dark. The Ichiba ones (if you really choose that route) need to be cut before installing.

http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...ber-kit-2.html

 

You my friend are very patient, and should be commended on still trying to help.

 

#1 I appreciate the help. Never said I didn't. I'm not on here to argue with people. I'm hear to learn and teach.

I can't see how having more camber travel would help me get the toe better. The toe bolts are maxed out. So when we adjusted the camber to be less negative the toe went in. And that's after grinding out the slots for the more offset bolts. I'm gonna leave it how it is. The wheels are flush and the camber isn't that bad.

I do wish now I spent the extra money and got the SPC. At least then I wouldn't have any doubts as to why I couldn't get the toe and camber perfect.

On to the next mod.

Thanks

 

+1

 

Awesome pic of rolling the fenders. Never knew that's how it was done!

 

Ok figured out the rear camber/toe problem, it makes sense to me know!

The alignment rack was faulty and sticking so my previous alignment was waaaay off. It was actually toed out. Instead of being maxed out TOE IN. I knew something was wrong and it was driving me nuts. I wasnt getting the same results others on here were.

So I tried first to correct camber to around -1.0 but as others have said the arms bind. So I took the arms out and cut 1/4" off each piece (4) and then adjusted again. Thing is with my 370z rims and 265/35 tires they poke too much for my taste at normal rear camber.

So after all that work and a little money I basically set it back to the way it was BEFORE the camber/ toe kit! LOL I have to laugh or I'll cry. Lot of agrevation.... Oh well the car goes straight as an arrow and with these specs will handle good. It will wear the inside edge of my tires but toe is worse than camber so it won't be horrible.

Set the alignment with a driver to get it more acturate-




And before the camber kit-

 

much better to have camber than toe, if you're forced to choose. glad you figured it out.

 

Been a while since I posted so here's a couple pics from yesterday.
Car was at the tuner last weekend but it didn't work out. He couldn't get the throttle cut deleted so he's contacting Uprev to see what we can do.

 

Looks great congrats!

 

Thanks. Next mod will be making the chrome window trim the same color as the rims. I think it will look good instead of the normal black that most do.

 

Let me know what you find for this chrome nonsense on the windows. I want it to be gone but I think you have to take apart the door to take it all off with breaking it. Bimmers have shadowline for this but nothing out there but plasti and vinyl which is not what I'm looking for. I want body color ideally for all of it. I bought mesh grilles for front and had them blasted, powdered, and body painted. Looks great wish I could do the same for the chrome window trim. Good look and let me know what you find.

 

 

 

Clean car!! I like the rims much more now that you had them painted. That pic looks almost exactly like one of Ghozt's old profile pics even the house in the background looks almost the same!lol

 

Not copying him at all but we both have good taste! Thanks for the compliment.

 

Getting tired of my Max. Can't find a reputable tuner and I'm losing interest. When I want to get reignited I usually do a mod.
So here's my latest set of mods.
Total cost = $15 or less.
BOP on passenger side only, and an oil separator. I was going to just do the BOP but after seeing and feeling all that oil in the intake after only 13k miles I figured I might as well. Very simple mods and a crap load cheaper than most spend. I never open the hood at shows so under hood is function over form.





So far I've noticed that the intake sound is amplified along with my AEM cold air kit it sounds great. Not sure about the power, it's 94 degrees today so any car feels slower than usual. I'll take it to track and see what the difference is.
And the car as it sits

 

Okay the passenger side bop absolutely makes the car faster on the highway. It absolutely makes it more sluggish around town to.

It pulls harder than before after 80 mph. You don't notice the drop off as much. Which leads me to believe that the BOP must close after 80. It still feels like it drops off after 80 but not as much at all, barely noticeable. I haven't confirmed if the throttle still closes 1/2 way or not cause I didn't have my scanner. I assume it does.

So since I'm not having any luck on the Uprev qualified CVT tuner I'm gonna get a throttle booster thing to help with the lag that the car has at low speeds /rpm.

Very happy I did this mod. It helped on my Altima SE-R and it definitely helped top end on this car.
After seeing the dyno run that NWP did of a 7th gen motor in an older car with a stick that it lost power till 5k rpm or so then gained. I knew that it would be worth it on the CVT cause if you floor it it goes up past 5k very quickly. Just the fact that the car doesn't lay over as much after 80 makes it worth it. People drive fast around here.

 

I'm think of purchasing the Stillen 5-piece body kit and was curious about the costs of painting it and installing it. Could I install it myself or is a somethfor the painter to do? What would the costs be for this???

 

I love the CVT in my 2013 Maxima with the Performance Package. My absolute fav= Waiting until all the cars get far enough ahead on the entrance ramp to the highway. Clickin over to 1st then haulin *** up the entrance ramp. 2nd, 3rd, then by the time I get to 4th I'm at 80 mph. I can't even get to 5th, let alone 6th. Damn I can't wait to get her on the track...

 

My 2013 Maxima with the Premium Package...

 

Hey dude kinda of a newbie here, just wondering how did you install the bop, did you have to mod. Anything else and is it worth the install, I'm trying to have lower and upper end performance not just top I know it's a bit much to ask but like you I'm very enthused with performance and looks lol. Any advise would help thnks

 

Think you may have the Sport package.....if you had the premium, you would have the black panel roof.

 

Yes the sport package only has the regular sunroof

 

Made my own fiberglass box ran my power cable by upper harness plug no drilling anywhere

 

Installed my cat back exhaust over the weekend.
I already have a Racingline Y-pipe.
The kit consists of a Borla b pipe and an Ebay rear Y pipe and straight thru polished mufflers with 4" slant cut tips. All stainless steel. 2.5" piping to 2.25" at the mufflers.
Before this set up I had the resonator deleted and the Racingline Y pipe. It didn't get much louder at all but at WOT it is slightly louder and it also has a deeper tone. Zero rasp sounds incredible and not loud just right.
I noticed some power as well. About the same as when I did the Y pipe. I'll have to test it out soon at the drag strip to see if my butt dyno is accurate.

No pics yet but I'll upload later. Looks great from behind. Mufflers are shinny 😁

 

Cant wait to see pic and hopefully a video or two!

 

Just ordered my UpRev tune yesterday. Cable for the obd2 port will be in the next week and the software is being emailed then as well.
I spoke with the tech there and they are going to email me 5 tunes with the option of 3 adjusted tunes within 12 months.
Basically I told them what us done to my car and what I want them to achieve for each tune.
Can't wait to be able to have 100% throttle from a dig and after 80 mph.

 

I heard the uprev tune voids our warranty true?

 

Well one of the tunes out of the 5 I can select via my cruise control is "stock tune".
So how would they know?