I bought this 2009 SV about two months ago it has 60,000 miles on it. It drives great, and everything has seemed fine on it except the stupid tire pressure warning light because of those terrible sensor things but I digress.

When I am sitting at say a red light, in drive, the engine will randomly rev to about 1200rpm about every 30 secs and everytime it happens the steering wheel shakes and I feel vibration. The research I've done has said everything from it is normal to I need to do an intake relearn or something.

Does anyone have any knowledge on this? And if some kind of relearn is required can someone tell me how? Thanks in advance.

 

possibly the throttle position sensor or a misfire in one of your cylinders? Is the cel on? A vacume leak somewhere could cause that aswell.

 

I do not have a Check engine light on, however I remember I was looking over the engine one day and where the incoming air comes in, it seems lose.
Like where the air filter housing is, before the air gets to the filter, those pieces of plastic just seem to rest loosely connected, kind of hard to explain. It almost feels like there should be a rubber boot or something there. I was told that it is probably normal but when I get a chance I will take a picture of what I am talking about.

 

Yeah, mine is like that also. I won't have any affect on your issue as it's not under vacuum, it's just intake air.

 

Here are some pics of the air intake thing I was talking about. There is a gap there where the plastic meets. Is that normal, and if not would it cause the issues I am having? And if not, lol, what would cause these issues? Just recently bought the car so I am really hoping it is not signs of something serious. The car has never been in any major accidents, had any major repairs or a flood.

 

The air going through that part of your intake is unmetered, as it is before the MAF sensor and will not affect your engine performance. Your idle issue could be from something as simple as a loose IAC, MAF, ETC sensor, etc, or you may need to perform the idle-air relearn procedure and the accelerator released position relearn. Check for vacuum leaks past the MAF sensor, I had an issue with the PCV valve once and had to change out the rubber hoses due to a small leak. Those hoses deteriorate quick. Idle issues are the worst to diagnose IMO, if you have extended warranty just bring her to a dealership.

 

This is great things to look for.... A vacuum leak can cause that!

 

Just throwing it out there, you probably aren't using ****ty gas but the one and only time I used 89 octane, my car was legit shaking when I came to a stop. Now strictly 93 octane and never felt it again.

 

I have been using ONLY 93 Shell V-Power so yeah its not that but yeah just throw ideas out because it is so frustrating especially on a recently purchased car.

I guess ill try that intake relearn and all if I can figure out how to do it.

 

I would check for the dreaded head gasket .

 

That's absurd... Check for a vacuum leak. If you need directions how, you can p.m. me and I will give an assist. Does if do this often? Does it do it when hot? when cold? All the time? Let me know and I will try to give a hand.

 

First thing I would do is go to a auto parts store and purchase a can of sprayable carburetor or fuel injection cleaner (the brand really does not matter). First step would be with the vehicle off remove the engine cover. At that point start the car and stand in front of the vehicle with your head under the hood listening for any whistling sounds. Obviously if you hear any whistling sounds look for any detached vacuum lines or obvious leaks. If there is no sign of any detached vacuum lines I would begin to spray the carburetor cleaner in a very tight pattern into the area where you hear the whistling. By spraying the carburetor cleaner if there is a vacuum week it would change the tone and the RPM of the engine.Depending on how severe the vacuum leak is it may potentially even stall the engine. If you cannot isolate where the leak may be coming from by sound , spray these areas, upper and lower intake manifold, around the throttlebody, all vacuum lines. Do not just randomly spray. Pick one area at a time and work it. For Example, spray the lower intake if no change wait 30 seconds then spray by the upper intake gasket, if no change wait 30 seconds and spray around the throttle body...etc.. Obviously do your best to avoid spraying a flammable solvent directly on a hot exhaust manifold unless your insurance is all paid up. Lol. If there is a vacuum leak, that is the tried-and-true method that technicians have been using for 100 years. That should help you should little light. let me know if I can help.